New Knife Project

**COWBOYSURVIVAL** · 06-12-2009, 06:37 PM

Originally Posted by crashdive123

Just finished with some 500 grit sand paper. 1200 grit next and then I'll finish it off with some jewelers rouge and a buffing wheel. Thanks for the tip.

No Thank You! looks like I may need a new handle for mine! I really like yours! Any more you can say about working with the resin?

**crashdive123** · 06-12-2009, 06:42 PM

The only thing I'm still working on is the amount of hardener to use. I just made another set using half the amount of hardner called for (their dose is for 70*F, but they don't have a chart or formula for calculating amount/temp). It still set up in less than 10 minutes. My little workshop is not inulated. Just a box fan to keep air moving. Temps outside today were mid 90's. Inside about 125 before I opened windows and started the fan. I'll make another set tomorrow using a little less hardner.

**Ken** · 06-12-2009, 06:49 PM

Originally Posted by crashdive123

My little workshop is not inulated. Just a box fan to keep air moving. Temps outside today were mid 90's. Inside about 125 before I opened windows and started the fan.

Guests can not see images in the messages. Please register in the forum. Stop whining! We have to pay to get that up here: http://www.selfgrowth.com/articles/H...ome_Sauna.html

**panch0** · 06-12-2009, 06:51 PM

Thats a heck of alot better than my first knife. Great job. You need to buy some 1080 steel and try your hand with a known knife steel. I think you have the talent to become a really good knifemaker. 1080 is a easier to heat treat and still get a heck of a good edge. Alot of makers make damascus knives from 1080-1084 and 512n0. I would be willing to offer any advise that I could to help you out.

**crashdive123** · 06-12-2009, 06:52 PM

I don't mind it, but the resin doesn't seem too crazy about it.

**crashdive123** · 06-12-2009, 06:53 PM

Thanks Panch0.

**crashdive123** · 06-13-2009, 08:39 AM

Another thing that I have found after starting the fine sanding is that there are some pits or air pockets that were not visible after the rough sanding. Not sure if this is due to the resin setting up too fast or if I didn't apply enough resin. I may leave this one just rough sanded and set it aside until I play around with some different mixtures, or maybe a different type of resin (I used Bondo brand).

**Rick** · 06-13-2009, 08:40 AM

Can you fill in the air pockets with resin and let it dry, then sand it? Just a thought.

**crashdive123** · 06-13-2009, 08:44 AM

Maybe. I think I'll sand one of the other slabs that I made and try that. Also want to see what spraying the rough sanded section with clear polyurethene looks like. I guess I could leave it alone too - it feels really comfortable in my hand.

**Pal334** · 06-13-2009, 09:07 AM

I dare say I am impressed. Thanks for your dscription on the handle making especially. I have a couple old knifes with busted up handles, may try this on them.Great looking project.

**COWBOYSURVIVAL** · 06-13-2009, 09:42 AM

Is the handle still tacky at all? Once I made a wood boat and covered with fiberglass resin only and no cloth it never cured all the way. i thought it was due to the lack of cloth. Just curious?

**crashdive123** · 06-13-2009, 03:30 PM

Originally Posted by COWBOYSURVIVAL

Is the handle still tacky at all? Once I made a wood boat and covered with fiberglass resin only and no cloth it never cured all the way. i thought it was due to the lack of cloth. Just curious?

Not at all. That was one of my concerns because I used less hardener than the directions called for. I think rather than use less hardener, I just need to mix smaller batches of resin - something that I can use up in about 5 minutes.

**Gray Wolf** · 06-13-2009, 09:37 PM

A mighty fine knife you made there my friend!

**Rockgod1619** · 06-14-2009, 05:59 PM

That is AWESOME Crash!!! I'm really liking the handle and never thought to use denim as a handle-making material. I may have to do that with one of the knives I make this summer.

**COWBOYSURVIVAL** · 06-15-2009, 03:46 PM

I thought this tidbit would go good with the post. When working with fiberglass at home you typically will purchase a gallon of resin and it will come with a tube of catilyst. Invariably unless you use it all up quick the catilyst will evaporate from the tube. I learned from a boat hull repair guy that the catilyst is simply MEK Metyk Ethyl Ketone. You can purchase this stuff in a can which will prevent evaporation and provide better storage once the little tube has evaporated. One more thing MEK is highly volitile - flammable.

**crashdive123** · 06-15-2009, 05:22 PM

Good to know - thanks.

**panch0** · 06-15-2009, 06:48 PM

If you want a smoother finish on the handle start with 120 grit then move up to 220, 320, 400, 600 grit. 600 is usually a good finnish for micarta. Your hands and arms will be tired. It is easier to move up in grits than to jump from a 80 grit to 600, beleive me I know from first hand experience.

edited to add:
Never mind you already did the finishing.