Roped Climbing On Ice And Snow

a. Tie-In Method. For climbing on snow and ice, the tie-in procedure is normally the same as for rock climbing; however, when moving over snow-covered glaciers, the tie-in is modified slightly. (See paragraph 10-7, Movement on Glaciers, for more information).

b. Movement. For movement on gentle or moderate slopes where there is little chance of a serious fall, all climbers move simultaneously. Normally the climbers move in single file using the steps created by the lead climber and improving them when necessary. The rope between the climbers should be fully extended and kept reasonably tight. Should any member fall, he immediately yells "FALLING." The other rope team members immediately drop into a self-arrest position. The fallen climber also applies the self-arrest procedure. By using this method, called the "team arrest," the entire team as a whole arrests the fall of one member. On steeper slopes, and when crossing snow-covered crevasses where the snow bridges appear weak, the climbers use belayed climbing techniques as in rock climbing.

c. Belaying on Snow and Ice. The principles of belaying on ice and snow are the same as on rock. Generally, the high-force falls found in rock climbing are not present on snow and ice unless the pitch being climbed is extremely steep.

d. Fixed Ropes. The use of fixed ropes on ice is recommended for moving units through icefall areas on glaciers or other steep ice conditions. The procedures for emplacing fixed ropes on ice are basically the same as on rock with the exception that anchors need more attention, both in initial placement and in subsequent inspection, and steps may have to be cut to assist personnel.