Touching the Void

**Eagles Talon** · 06-16-2008, 02:35 PM

As part of a project I have to find out how the survival world feel about the Mountain Climbing expedetion up Siula Grande(20,813 feet). They decided to climb 'Alpine' style, however they quickly ran out of gas and the weather turned against them, they ended up with Joe Simpson hanging off a thin peice of rope over a crevace in excess of 100ft. Simon Yates his friend and climbing partner who was lowering down Joe, who had broken his leg, was unaware that Joe was hanging 80ft above a thin layer of ice and then a deadly drop, Simon had to make the decision whether to cut the rope or not. He did.
Do you think they should have camped over night?
Do you think they shouldn't have gone 'alpine'
Do you think he should hav cut the rope??
As soon as i was told to find out what the survival community I thought of you guys, so help if you can

**Beo** · 06-16-2008, 02:41 PM

Do you think they should have camped over night?
Do you think they shouldn't have gone 'alpine'
Do you think he should hav cut the rope?

If your climbing at that height your gonna have to stay the night, but they should have checked the weather reports and then made their choice to go or not.

No. At that height you need a camp sight, ropes and everything else to do it safely.

Nope, never leave an injured friend, pulling him up would have been worth a try, work on something but NEVER GIVE UP. If it was a choice of cutting the rope and others dying, then I'd have tried other things but yes would have cut the rope to save others. If it were just me and him I'd work something out and just kept trying.

**Beo** · 06-16-2008, 02:44 PM

For those who do not know what Alpine style of climbing is:
Alpine style refers to mountaineering in a self-sufficient manner, thereby carrying all of one's food, shelter, equipment etc. as one climbs, as opposed to expedition style (or siege style) mountaineering which involves setting up a fixed line of stocked camps on the mountain which can be accessed at one's leisure. Additionally, alpine style means the refusal of fixed ropes, high altitude porters and the use of supplemental oxygen.
Many consider Alpine style to be the purest form of mountaineering, setting a standard to which all mountaineers should aspire. This style became well-known and popular with Reinhold Messner, when he and Peter Habeler climbed Gasherbrum I without oxygen equipment in 1975. It was Hermann Buhl's idea to demonstrate Alpine style in the Karakoram at the successful Austrian Broad Peak expedition in 1957; in pure Alpine style the members of this expedition later climbed Skil Brum (Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller) and approached Chogolisa (Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger).
The benefits of alpine style are that, generally, much less time is spent on the route, reducing objective dangers such as avalanches or blizzards. This can be a major factor on routes with ice fields full of blocks of ice hundreds of feet tall which could fall at any time. Snow and ice conditions often change over the course of a day forcing climbing parties to climb in the early hours before the sun melts the snow or ice making it unsuitable and more susceptible to avalanche. This tendency to climb in the morning has led to the term "Alpine Start". An "Alpine Start" is a start that happens in the early morning ranging from 11:00 PM on long routes to not long before sunrise for shorter routes or faster parties. An "Alpine Start" must begin in the dark.
The problems encountered while alpine style climbing are related to lack of support. Without fixed ropes to retreat down in case of emergency, or a lower camp to return to, the commitment of alpine style is greater than expedition style in terms of the choice to ascend or descend. A climbing group caught at a point where conditions do not allow further ascent must consider other options such as an unplanned bivouac (perhaps without the appropriate gear), rappels (leaving multiple pieces of protection behind), or moving to another route from their current position (perhaps without adequate knowledge of the alternative route). However, alpine style often is cheaper and faster for those on a budget.

**Gray Wolf** · 06-19-2008, 11:02 AM

@Eagles Talon

Does anyone know what he tried before he cut the rope? If Simon Yates was his friend and climbing partner, I find it hard to believe that he "just cut the rope".