Log building question

**wildWoman** · 04-15-2008, 11:04 AM

Does anyone know if there is a good method to cut off the bottom and top ends of a log section, so that when you use that section as an upright post, it will stand plumb?
We've tried snapping a chalkline on two-sided logs, and then marking a right angle at the top and bottom of the line, but our cuts always came out crooked anyway. Is there a better way to do it?

**Riverrat** · 04-15-2008, 11:18 AM

The way I did it was to use a level. Lay the log down and on the end you are going to cut, place the level and make it is as level as possible. Then draw your cut line using the level to plumb it. It is almost impossible to get it perfect because the material you are working with is not straight. The wife and I put a log deck on the front of our house and this is the best way we found to do the cuts, and they "usually" came out close....

**Ole WV Coot** · 04-15-2008, 12:02 PM

You will always cut at an angle if you use a chain saw that isn't sharpened correctly it sure won't cut straight. The larger diameter of the log the more it will be off.

**Stony** · 04-15-2008, 12:32 PM

i agree with coot.
if the bar is bend you need to replace it.
also, when sharpening the chain, the oppsite site of the strong hand
has always more material taken off the teeth.
get a new bar, new chain and a bar mounted sharpening tool, your cuts getting straight.

**Sourdough** · 04-15-2008, 01:36 PM

WW, There is a attachment that attach's to the chainsaw that rides on a 2"X4" that you temporary nail for a track. Or you can use a Alaska chainsaw mill attachment.

**wildWoman** · 04-16-2008, 12:56 PM

Thanks guys...guess the new bar and chain idea would work the best for us. We tried sharpening the chain different, marking along the log, kneeling, sitting, standing etc...with marginal results.

Originally Posted by hopeak

WW, There is a attachment that attach's to the chainsaw that rides on a 2"X4" that you temporary nail for a track. Or you can use a Alaska chainsaw mill attachment.

Hopeak, I don't quite get it - if I used the Alasakan mill to cut off the butt end of a log, what would I use and where would I mount my guide board on it so that the cut comes out straight and the post will stand plumb?

**wildWoman** · 04-16-2008, 01:12 PM

Because the chainsaw is the one motorized tool that I love

Cuts firewood, carves, makes boards of all sizes, cuts cabin logs, shoos away snoopy bears, and at the end of the day you're still left with enough time to go for a paddle or take the dogs for a walk.
I agree that far better, more exact work is done with hand tools, but people more talented with sharpening and handling chainsaws come up with very good results too. But I think I'll stick with the chainsaw till doomsday has arrived and niether fuel nor saw parts can be had anymore.

**Sourdough** · 04-16-2008, 02:35 PM

Originally Posted by wildWoman

Thanks guys...guess the new bar and chain idea would work the best for us. We tried sharpening the chain different, marking along the log, kneeling, sitting, standing etc...with marginal results.

Hopeak, I don't quite get it - if I used the Alasakan mill to cut off the butt end of a log, what would I use and where would I mount my guide board on it so that the cut comes out straight and the post will stand plumb?

Do you have a wormdrive or a skill saw.......?

**crashdive123** · 04-16-2008, 04:39 PM

WildWoman - I have never tried this with logs, but I have used what I'm about to descripe with larger timbers (about 18" diameter), so it should work on logs too. I used a laser level to project a vertical line on the timber and then just followed the line with my chainsaw. Laser levels are relatively inexpensive nowadays. Hope this helps.

**wildWoman** · 04-16-2008, 06:51 PM

Originally Posted by hopeak

Do you have a wormdrive or a skill saw.......?

Yup, got a skill saw. Ok and now?

Crash, hey that's a good idea too with the laser level! we don't have one but you're right, they are not expensive.