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Thread: 91/30 quick and dirty build

  1. #41
    Senior Member kyratshooter's Avatar
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    unit ready to go.

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    Close look at scope mounted over bore.


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    Junk bolt handle. Made from same material as mount. Press fit, JB Welded and screwed to bolt. It survived a good workout today and held together through smackin out several stuck cases.
    Last edited by kyratshooter; 07-26-2010 at 07:56 PM.
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  2. #42
    Senior Member kyratshooter's Avatar
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    100 yd iron sights

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    100 yd group scope

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    50 yd scoped and epoxey bedded

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    100 yd scoped and bedded. 1.75" center to center. Polish 147gn surplus/ball ammo
    Last edited by kyratshooter; 07-26-2010 at 09:12 PM.
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  3. #43
    Senior Member hunter63's Avatar
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    Not to shabby, for a throw away rifle.
    I'm a "min paper plate" shooter my self, but those are real respectable, nice job.
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  4. #44
    Senior Member kyratshooter's Avatar
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    In another couple of weeks I am going to cut those groups in half again.

    This is using the Polish surplus. I have not shot a single round of commercial ammo yet. When I get a dozen cases to work with I will have some handloads.

    I have not even touched the trigger yet. I am going to need a bucket of rocks to measure the pull. My scale only goes to 15 pounds and that will not trip the trigger. I'm going to have to hang a bucket from the trigger and fill it with enough weight to trip the sear, then weigh the bucket!
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  5. #45
    Senior Member kyratshooter's Avatar
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    I did the trigger tonight.

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    I shimed the sear. This modification is frowned on by many as just another "unsafe bubba operation", but I found that it was often done as an armory prep to the sniper rifles. It reduces primary travel and strain on the sear spring.

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    Installed a set screw in the trigger. This is what the Huber trigger is with a ball bearing added. I simply used the set screw as a hardened bearing point. Cost of the Huber-$80. Cost of the KY Ratshooter model-$0.29

    Polished everything within an inch of its life. I also installed an overtravel screw.


    Trigger now breaks smooth and clean at 3 pounds with no slop and minimum over-travel. It was origionally 17 pounds. I reduced the weight of pull by 14 pounds with a washer and set screw. This improvement was almost scarey it worked so well.
    Last edited by kyratshooter; 07-30-2010 at 02:25 AM.
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  6. #46

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    Nice! I'm glad you got some pics up. I wish I had your knowledge and skills because this looks like a lot of fun.

  7. #47
    Senior Member kyratshooter's Avatar
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    The knowledge is right here on the internet and the skills involve pulling the trigger on an electric drill and working that little T handle thing in the above picture.

    I'll be heading for the range if Monday is a good day. I stay away from that place on weekends. Too many "survivalists" hanging around, espically on sunday afternoon. More camo clothes down there than in Afganistan.
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  8. #48
    Senior Member kyratshooter's Avatar
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    I found out that the felt around the barrel thing does not work. My targets looked like I was patterning a shotgun!

    On top of that there was a nut job at the range who kept opening the gate and walking downrange without calling clear or anything. Scared me to death! He actually walked across my line of sight at one point. I had to pack up and leave. The temptation to thin the gene pool was becomming unbearable.
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  9. #49
    Senior Member kyratshooter's Avatar
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    I officially had the loudest rifle at the range today.

    Messing around with the MN and mounted a LER scope on a scout mount. 15 rounds and it held zero well, which was my concern.

    For the nonmechanical this is definately the way to go for long range work. One pin removed, the mount screwed on and the scope installed. No drilling, no bolt bending, nothing to screw up.
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  10. #50
    Administrator Rick's Avatar
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    I'm looking to do that with one of my Mosin's. I've been looking at an S&K Scope mount with an LER set up as a scout model. I just need to pull the trigger and do it.
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  11. #51
    Senior Member kyratshooter's Avatar
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    That S&K unit is nice but costs as much as I paid for the Mosin!

    I got the NcStar mount form Optics Planet.

    http://www.opticsplanet.net/ncstar-m...t-mm44-91.html

    $14 is cheap enough even for me. I'm the guy that makes mounts out of old bed rails, remember.

    I set a 2-7x on it and I really like the set up.

    That reminds me, I need to go clean that thing. I hate those corrosive primers!
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  12. #52
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    Gads! Optics Planet is usually the most expensive place around. That's a great find.
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  13. #53
    Senior Member hunter63's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kyratshooter View Post
    That S&K unit is nice but costs as much as I paid for the Mosin!

    I got the NcStar mount form Optics Planet.

    http://www.opticsplanet.net/ncstar-m...t-mm44-91.html

    $14 is cheap enough even for me. I'm the guy that makes mounts out of old bed rails, remember.

    I set a 2-7x on it and I really like the set up.

    That reminds me, I need to go clean that thing. I hate those corrosive primers!
    Thanks for the tip and find, as I would need about 4 right noe, LOL.

    Thanks.
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  14. #54
    Administrator Rick's Avatar
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    Did you just tap the pin out of the rear sight? It looks like the pin that it hinges on could be tapped out. There are two other pins in the housing. I assume you left both alone and just removed the elevated sight?

    I've read mixed reviews on the NcStar LER scopes. Where did you pick yours up at and are you happy with it? You said it stayed zeroed so that's a plus.
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  15. #55
    Senior Member kyratshooter's Avatar
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    NcStar has some good and bad stuff. If you go too cheap you get about what you would expect. I got a 4x compact on sale for $20 and guess what? It's a $20 scope. Then I get this 2-7 LER for a shade under $50 and I get more than I expected.

    I am going to buy at least one more LER just because I have become irritated at my dot sights. I hate being battery dependent. That and there is just something inherently not right about an aimpoint on a 94 Winchester!

    I would not be surprised to see the NcStar prices jump soon, just like Simmons and Tasco of 20 years ago and the Barska of a couple of years back. I bought some real nice Barska stuff for less than $50 a couple of years ago that is going for $100+ now.

    The mount goes on the rear sight base. Tap out the pin holding the elevator, remove ther elevator and spring. The mount attaches with two set screws one on each side of the rear base using the existing pin holes. There is a large set screw that supports the mount against the barrel at both front and rear. Each big set screw has a locking set screw of its own. Works like a see-saw. You can also adjust the elevation using the set screws and save travel on the scope dials.

    It just about takes longer to explain it that to do it.
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  16. #56
    Administrator Rick's Avatar
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    Actually, I thought you did a pretty good job of explaining it.
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  17. #57
    Senior Member 2dumb2kwit's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kyratshooter View Post
    NcStar has some good and bad stuff. If you go too cheap you get about what you would expect. I got a 4x compact on sale for $20 and guess what? It's a $20 scope. Then I get this 2-7 LER for a shade under $50 and I get more than I expected.

    I am going to buy at least one more LER just because I have become irritated at my dot sights. I hate being battery dependent. That and there is just something inherently not right about an aimpoint on a 94 Winchester!

    I would not be surprised to see the NcStar prices jump soon, just like Simmons and Tasco of 20 years ago and the Barska of a couple of years back. I bought some real nice Barska stuff for less than $50 a couple of years ago that is going for $100+ now.

    The mount goes on the rear sight base. Tap out the pin holding the elevator, remove ther elevator and spring. The mount attaches with two set screws one on each side of the rear base using the existing pin holes. There is a large set screw that supports the mount against the barrel at both front and rear. Each big set screw has a locking set screw of its own. Works like a see-saw. You can also adjust the elevation using the set screws and save travel on the scope dials.
    It just about takes longer to explain it that to do it.
    Hmmmmm.....put a little angle on it to start with, and you've got a long distance shootin' mosin!!! That's an entertainment value!!! LOL
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