Growing Tomatoes

**BushedOut** · 07-30-2010, 09:04 AM

Sorry if this isnt really "Survival" but I have been trying to grow some veggies and have had problems with tommies which are usually quite easy to grow...

Problem.. The seeds will not grow at all when placed in soil, changed the seeds.. same problem. I have grown the seeds into seedlings in between napkins in cupboards as soon as they are transferred to soil they die.... Im just wondering what type of soil is required and where I can be going wrong with the soil.. Every other plant seems to grow in the same soil....

**your_comforting_company** · 07-30-2010, 10:48 AM

Not sure about your location, but down here in South Georgia, we have a tomato blight that is soilborne.
My grandmother and her sister went to the same store and bought the same brand of tomato sprouts on the same day. Aunt put hers in the ground and within a weak they were wilting, 10 days they were dead. Grandma put hers in bigger plant pots with potting soil and staked them out in the yard. We've been eating tomatos off my grandma's plants and they are about 5 feet tall and probably as big around. We are using collected rainwater to water them.

I recommend sending in a soil sample through your local Ag co-op, or county extension office. Here the cost is $4. It could be many things causing it, and the best way to narrow it down is to evaluate the soil on a micro-level. Organic matter, water retention, and pH all have to be just-so for tomatoes to do well.

**crashdive123** · 07-30-2010, 04:18 PM

Originally Posted by BushedOut

Sorry if this isnt really "Survival" but I have been trying to grow some veggies and have had problems with tommies which are usually quite easy to grow...

Problem.. The seeds will not grow at all when placed in soil, changed the seeds.. same problem. I have growed the seeds into seedlings in between napkins in cupboards as soon as they are transferred to soil they die.... Im just wondering what type of soil is required and where I can be going wrong with the soil.. Every other plant seems to grow in the same soil....

Telling us where you are trying to grow them would be helpful - this is why several folks have suggested that you do an intro. It helps to know if you are trying this in Alaska or some place in the Middle East.

**BushedOut** · 08-01-2010, 12:45 PM

Hi,

Thanks for the responses! I'm not located in the US but I think you are correct in stating it's a soil issue. I have literally tried everything! The good news is that the climate here allows for year round growing so hopefully I can start again once I have a better idea. Thanks Again!

**canid** · 08-02-2010, 09:33 PM

tomatoes from seed are notoriously touchy. i've been starting seeds for a couple of months now, and only have two mature plants, and about 16 total.

that's out of a couple hundred seeds. the ones that germinated and thrived best, believe it or not, are the ones i accidentally direct-sowed.

ordinarily, i have to sew into seed trays, germinate indoors, loose 70-80% of them, keep just slightly dry at all times in the shade for 4-6 weeks and then plant into the ground extremely carefully.

**BushedOut** · 08-04-2010, 11:35 AM

Hi,

Thanks for the response. It was definately a lot more difficult than I expected! Im going to try and save the seeds from some Tomatoes that I have and try again... It is definately a lot harder (and more skill required) than the videos on Youtube...

Thanks Again!

**Blasfemo** · 08-05-2010, 12:16 AM

Originally Posted by canid

tomatoes from seed are notoriously touchy.

that's out of a couple hundred seeds. the ones that germinated and thrived best, believe it or not, are the ones i accidentally direct-sowed.

spot on!!

tomatoes are in deed touchy. i always seen the elder taking tons of seed for m2.

Tomatoes roots are totally sensitive!! Never read about it but know it from observation. PH issues, low soil quality, overwatering, underwatering, direct sun light, nematodes and other beasties are enough to take a part in your insuccess.

Best advice is get a new soil base, and i mean first step, once you know what your soil has in it is much easier to control all the other stuff.

Making it short

Seeds: buy super hiper seeds, i mean the best you can find, take out all the seeds that seem to have any deformation or seem smaller.

Starting seeds: Use something like a small 2 inch tray, although if your climate is warm you might put them in the grow at once.

Soil recipe:

Dont be cheap on soil, its obvious you can make your own, and its obvious you can use natural soil, however remember tomatoes take a lot of nutrients when vegetating and flowering, so you might need extra punch of nutrients in most cases.

You can make a fool proof move, and buy something like Pro mix or all biz.

You would need then only some worm casting or nettles tea to get your tomato plants going.

Should you make your own i would go for something like, 3 parts peat moss, 3 parts worm castings, 1 part perlite, 1 part vermiculite, 1 part guano or other slow release P source, and 1 part sea weed\kelp extract.
Make sure to use fine powered dolomitic lime to help to stabilize you PH.

This should be a good starting point to your soil. Maybe some nematodes have been feasting on your young tomatoes roots or maybe your solid is to hot, controlling the medium you grow is essential imo.

Best of luck

**canid** · 08-05-2010, 09:38 AM

i'm thrilled that the seeds i collected and prepared myself seem to be doing as well as the commercial seed at the moment.

now *that* is a relief.

as for the soil: i compost everything from woodchips/sawdust and cardboard as humic filler to kitchen scraps, weedings and groundling fruit that i have cleaned from the yard or cleaned up for others [i have about 100lb of groundling cherries from my lady's mother's trees]. if i could, i would invest more money into the soil amendment, but sometimes work is a perfect substitute for cash.

**grrlscout** · 08-05-2010, 11:28 AM

A tip on saving your own seeds...

Put the goo and seeds from a tomato in a small jar, and add some water. Wait a few days, until there's a moldy layer on top.

Peel off the moldy layer, and dump the seeds and water in a mesh strainer. Give them a rinse, and the spread them on a paper plate to thoroughly dry.

The reason you want them to mold is that the seeds have a protective coat that prevents them from germinating. In nature, it protects the seed while it's being transported (say, within a bird). But is dissolved therein, and ready for germination when pooped out.

By partially fermenting the seeds, the coating is dissolved. I've seen another method, using Draino. But I think I'd still to the more natural way, myself.

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I usually start my tomatoes indoors, in egg crates, with starter soil. I started making my own, that's just moss + worm poop.

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Then I transplant them into cups or small pots. The soil is moss, garden soil, a little perlite, some more worm poop.

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When they're about 8"-12" tall, I put them in the ground. Before I put the plant in the hole, I drop in a little kelp meal and bone meal.

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Oh and I've found that sticking with varieties that bred for my climate helps a lot. For instance, I've had the best luck with Zapotec Pleated, because it hails from Mexico, and can tolerate our heat and dry air.

Good luck!