Reloading the cheap, portable and fully capable way

[Alaskan Survivalist]

There are many reasons for reloading. Accuracy, custom loads for specific guns, scarce calibers, saving money. The following tools will accomplish all this. There is a smaller kit made by Lee called Lee loaders but they only neck size, use scoop for powder measure and don’t trim cases and take longer. Time involved becomes important to calibers like 9mm that are cheap to purchase in quantity and many reloaders opt for equipment capable of mass production but if time is not an issue the following equipment will do it all. Lets reload! For this example I will be reloading one of my 44 Bear stoppers. This is custom ammo that will not fit in most 44’s but because of the longer, stronger cylinders of my Super Red Hawk I can use 320 grain hard cast bullets without cutting into case capacity and compress the load. NEVER GET RELOADING INFO OFF INTERNET! Use Manuals, work up loads gradually and FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS! Working up loads is one of the reasons I like to have stuff I can take to range. Compare Standard 240 grain bullet to 320 grain hard cast. This is not a hunting round, it’s for bone breaking deep penetration. Heavy bullets and sectional density are the best way to achieve penetration. As you learn more you’ll find that as velocity increases so does resistance. This is what I use to put a bullet through one shoulder, through the spine and exit the other shoulder so the bear hit’s the ground dead.
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Lee hand press accepts all common dies and goes any where. I use a little case lube and carbide dies on straight wall cases that tend to stick case more often but for most calibers I do not spend the extra money for carbide dies. Pressing case into the first die will reshape case and push old primer out.

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Cases stretch slightly with each use and should be trimmed. Consistency is the key to accuracy and Lee makes a case cutter that is specific to each caliber. Much smaller than most case trimmers and set to proper case length making them idiot proof (I need that). It can be turned by hand or set in drill if you have a lot of cases to trim.

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I use steel wool to clean and polish case. Easier than carrying a tumbler. The other tool removes burr from inside and outside of case after triming.

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I then use a RCBS tool to clean inside of case and primer pocket. The different tips screw into handle.

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I then set primer and prefer to use a hand primer tool over any other method because I can “feel” the primer set.

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I have a magnetically dampened scale that came with a kit I bought when I first got started and have been pleased with it but there may be better available. I don’t know, it’s all I have ever used and I have developed rounds with less than a 5 feet per second variance when tested with cronogragh. In case you don’t know that is very good and like I said, Consistency is the key to accuracy”. I have my pet loads written on cards I keep in the case with dies and only use manuals when working up new loads.

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I have powder measuring scoops that fill pan of scale but I always use one a bit shy of full load and bring up to full measure with a RCBS powder trickler that releases a grain or two at a time. Especially when pushing case capacities to the max each grain of powder can make a big difference in velocity and pressure.

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Pan is lifted off scaled and poured into a powder funnel to fill case.

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Another die sets bullet depth. I keep a dummy bullet without powder or primer to set die each time I set it up for use.

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Many die sets will have only two dies and the second one will crimp bullet the same time it sets depth but for heavy bullets I use a heavy crimp. Heavy recoil can cause bullets to come out far enough to stop cylinder from revolving so I use a three die set to put a heavy crimp on bullets. Each caliber will have its own peculiarities so you will have to get used to reading and following instructions. This post is just to give a general over view and specific loading information should only be taken from manuals.

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I am very meticulous at each stage but I’ll bet my life on the finished product.

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[lucznik]

That looks like a pretty good lightweight setup. Much more portable than my set at home. I like it.

The only caveat I would make is that I think it would be O.K. to get reloading info from the internet - as long as your source is the powder and/or bullet manufacturers' websites or the like.

Certainly not from internet forums - which is what I think you had in mind in your post.

[BENESSE]

When I grow up, I'd like to be able to understand and follow
these directions. Until then, I'll just be impressed.

[Alaskan Survivalist]

Lucznik, you got it right but to avoid making a mistake for those new to reloading that may not be able to make the proper distinction I played it safe. Benesse, I know from how you write you are smarter than me and I can do it. This is not designed to be nothing more than an overview. Reloading manuals have a chapter in the front that has all the information you'll need. Getting started with all the options out there can be confusing and I hoped only to try and make it not so intimadating. I know you can do this.

[Ken]

Good post. Thanks, AS!

[hunter63]

AS, You have the basics covered very well, and as usual did a right fine job with the pic's and all.
Not much to add to this, except to reaffirm the READ THE MANUAL.
Even Mr.Lee himself use a hand press so as to load at the range, to test equipment and loads.

I do like to do "batches" reprating each step on say 20 round at a time, using a holder, to hold shell after each step.
I have not used a progressive press, for making a large amount of one size and load of anything, so far.

The Lee Loader is also a very inexpensive option if you are just going to do one caliber and are using empty brass from your gun.
Every thing you need in a small box.

[Pal334]

Good post, thanks

[hunter63]

Not to take away for AS's post, this is a summery of the full post.
For a fast reference.
1) Check empty case(brass), for cracks, burn holes, (on neck of bottle neck cases)and see if fired primer is bulged out.

2) Clean case and apply case lube.

3) Put in press w/proper die and shell holder, to size case, and push out fired primer. (one operation)

4) Clean primer hole, with (tool,shown), put case length tool(shown) w/cutter into hole, trim case length as necessary.

5) clean burr off inside and out side case mouth, (tool, shown)

6) Brush out inside of case and primer hole. (tool, shown)

7) Install new primer, with (tool, shown)

8) measure out desired load of powder (manual), dump into case, (may or may not fill up the case.

Note: Lots of ways to measure, I use the scale shown, as well as as dippers, and the powder drop tool, but after set up I cross referance all three to see if they agree.

9) check that all cases have powder load. Have mine in a loading block, (shell holder), so you can see if they are filled the same way.

10) place case w/ powder into bullet seating die, place bullet into mouth and push bullet in, to desired depth, (manual) some dies will also crip bullet at this point.

In a lot of cases, you are now done, wipe down, put into box and lable, ready to go Boom again.

11) Can use a full size sizer die at this point, mostly for straight sided cases. (.357, 44 mag, 45/70, etc)
12) can use a "factory bullet crimp die" at this point, to insure proper crimp to hold bullet in place.

[Alaskan Survivalist]

Hunter63, We are so like minded we should work together on posts. I'll take the pictures and you can write them up. Wisconsins must be a lot like Alaskans only sober.

[hunter63]

Hunter63, We are so like minded we should work together on posts. I'll take the pictures and you can write them up. Wisconsins must be a lot like Alaskans only sober.

LOL, I don't know about that, we have more bars than Church's in most towns.

I know that getting everything out, laying it out, taking the pic's, is a lot of work.
Then for some one that isn't familiar with the components, and order of operations, trying to make sense of it all, can be a problem

I didn't want to take away from your post, just wanted to have a summery, in order of operations.

You covered all the basics and didn't get into any pet procedures, I don't know how many people I have talked to that insist that you need a tumbler, progressive press, bullet pullers (yeah, OK, good addition if you screw up).

Point is that really make it expensive and complicated, and it doesn't have to be.
Press on, tried to give some rep here, but guess I gotta spread it around some more.

[Alaskan Survivalist]

LOL, I don't know about that, we have more bars than Church's in most towns.

I know that getting everything out, laying it out, taking the pic's, is a lot of work.
Then for some one that isn't familiar with the components, and order of operations, trying to make sense of it all, can be a problem

I didn't want to take away from your post, just wanted to have a summery, in order of operations.

You covered all the basics and didn't get into any pet procedures, I don't know how many people I have talked to that insist that you need a tumbler, progressive press, bullet pullers (yeah, OK, good addition if you screw up).

Point is that really make it expensive and complicated, and it doesn't have to be.
Press on, tried to give some rep here, but guess I gotta spread it around some more.

On the contrary, you did not take anything away, you added to it. That's the good thing about forums. All you have to do is start the conversation and every body shares in putting in the info. Input is always appreciated, especially yours.

[randyt]

On the contrary, you did not take anything away, you added to it. That's the good thing about forums. All you have to do is start the conversation and every body shares in putting in the info. Input is always appreciated, especially yours.

i agree, the more input the better. there isn't anybody as smart as all of us.

[Alaskan Survivalist]

check that all cases have powder load. Have mine in a loading block, (shell holder), so you can see if they are filled the same way.

I think I'll be doing this from now on. I once double loaded a 308 and when fired it cronograghed at 9000 feet per second and the bullet desinigrated before it hit the paper 25 yards away. The only part of the bullet I found was the copper that shreded off the bullet and fell about 10 feet from the barrel. I'm lucky I didn't blow myself up! I have been checking every since but your method seems more systematic and idiot proof. Thanks for tip!

[hunter63]

AS, I hear ya,
Checking the powder load also helps preventing a shot that just goes "thump" (primer, no powder), sticking the bullet in the bore, very embarrassing at the range, with other people around.
Also very much a PITA to get out, and dangerous if you don't realise what happened.

My range box also has a long brass rod that can be used to bang out a stuck bullet, or case.

[randyt]

those lee hand presses are handy, i have one just like it. i was cleaning out some of my dads stuff and came across a box of lyman dies and a 310 tool. i never knew he had these. i think it had belonged to my granddad. i've decided to keep them just in case my lee hand press broke i could still reload. i think there is some bullet sizers in there that work with the 310 tool. by the time i was done cleaning i probably ended up with eight or so presses. every time he upgraded he kept the old one just in case. starting with a homemade press he made in the early fifties to a dillon progressive press to everything in between. now i just need to find time to put it all to use.

[hunter63]

There you go, now every time you touch one off just say "Thanks Dad".
Very cool. Hearing stuff like this just make me feel good.

[randyt]

here's a pict of the homemade press. with the lee hand press costing around 25 dollars or so it's not hardly worth it to make one but sometimes it is cool to make our own gear. i still have the plans for this press, it's just a single sheet

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[Mountaintrekker]

That sounds like a winner! I have been putting off reloading because we don't have the room for me to mount the press on a bench. This summer we will be on the road a bit and I think I'll get one of these hand presses and start knocking out some .44mag and some .06.
Thanks for the post!!!

[hunter63]

here's a pict of the homemade press. with the lee hand press costing around 25 dollars or so it's not hardly worth it to make one but sometimes it is cool to make our own gear. i still have the plans for this press, it's just a single sheet

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Outstanding!, looks like a heavy duty unit, thanks for letting us see it!
Sometimes it better to have no money, but have some time.....you can really come up with some good stuff.

[Alaskan Survivalist]

Since Hunter 63 brought it up I do have a bullet puller. It’s made by RCBS and the bullet is clamped inside it and the it is struck against something and momentum pulls the bullet. It doesn’t cost much either.

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I also have a cronogragh that folds to fit in the small box in background. Not absolutely needed but I do some long range shooting and need to know velocity. I just do penetration tests with 44 cartridges.

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Once velocity is known ballistic tables have all you need to know. I am a fan of Hornady bullets and manuals are very good. But there are others just as good it kind of depends on which cartridge and bullets match your use.

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