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Thread: Sheath Making

  1. #1
    Super Moderator crashdive123's Avatar
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    Default Sheath Making

    I found this to be a good source of information on sheath making. I haven't done the wax/oil dip yet, but plan to on my next sheath.

    http://beknivessite2.homestead.com/pouchsheath.html
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    Lone Wolf COWBOYSURVIVAL's Avatar
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    Never thought of that the beeswax should make for a water resistant sheath and protect the leather! I may do this with some of my older sheaths! Thanks Crash!
    Keep in mind the problem may be extremely complicated, though the "Fix" is often simple...

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    Senior Member Ole WV Coot's Avatar
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    He makes some fine blades and has simple instructions for file work. I personally like his explanations and step by step instructions without all the junk I no longer use.
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    Administrator Rick's Avatar
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    Paraffin or wax will work, too. Dip the sheath in hot wax. It will make the sheath stiffer and darken it quite a bit. Of course, it helps with weathering, too.
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    Spark Maker panch0's Avatar
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    Nice. I will have to try this on any sheaths I make. That is the basic process I use when I make a sheath. exept for the wax part. I really need to look into that. Thanks Crash!
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    Senior Member hunter63's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by COWBOYSURVIVAL View Post
    Never thought of that the beeswax should make for a water resistant sheath and protect the leather! I may do this with some of my older sheaths! Thanks Crash!
    Bee's wax is very versatile, besides candles.

    Was used in early time for a lot of ointments, leather work, and even by blacksmiths to blacken and preserve the iron work.

    My lead smelter uses a pea size piece to flux the lead.
    Lube your needle when sewing thick leather.

    Maybe list it in the multi use thread?
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    Lone Wolf COWBOYSURVIVAL's Avatar
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    Preserves compound bow strings too!
    Keep in mind the problem may be extremely complicated, though the "Fix" is often simple...

    "Teaching a child to fish is the "original" introduction to all that is wild." CS

    "How can you tell a story that has no end?" Doc Carlson

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ole WV Coot View Post
    He makes some fine blades and has simple instructions for file work. I personally like his explanations and step by step instructions without all the junk I no longer use.
    He is a great knifemaker and a nice fellow. Had his share of financial problems but that's normal for knifemakers. When I was making knivesm Bruce helped me with a lot of things but especially making Damascus.

    If that's the tutorial where he puts the sheath in hot beeswax and mink oil, watch your tempertures. The first one I did like that came out deep fat fried.

  9. #9
    Super Moderator crashdive123's Avatar
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    @Peter Nap - how do you heat the wax? He used a crock pot in the tutorial. Do you check the temp with a thermometer?
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    Quote Originally Posted by crashdive123 View Post
    @Peter Nap - how do you heat the wax? He used a crock pot in the tutorial. Do you check the temp with a thermometer?
    There's a long story about that. I expect they're still laughing on Blade forums and that's been years ago.

    I was building a large bowie, about 19" overall. I was going to use poured pewter for the bolsters. I was also cooking the sheath at the same time....anyway..

    I was heating the beeswax and mink oil on one hot plate (I don't worry as much as Bruce does) and heating the pewter on another.

    While doing that, I was wrapping the Bowie handle to pour. I made my mold from cardboard and wrapped it with duct tape to keep it off of the handle.

    I turned the heat up a little on the beeswax and started pulling the duct tape tight on the knife. The duct tape broke and I smacked myself on the forehead with the blade. Cut a big gash. So there I was with molten pewter, ready to pour, hot wax, blood running in my eyes and a Bowie ready to be poured.

    I wiped my eyes, superglued my cut and covered it with a rag and duct tape, threw the sheath in and poured my pewter,

    The knife came out beautifully, the sheath cooked too long and too hot and I had a headache for a week.

  11. #11
    Senior Member laughingbeetle's Avatar
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    I always used a double boiler when melting any wax... never had a problem with it burning.
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    Super Moderator crashdive123's Avatar
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    ***note to self***

    one step at a time and wear a helmet.

    Thanks.
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    Super Moderator crashdive123's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by laughingbeetle View Post
    I always used a double boiler when melting any wax... never had a problem with it burning.
    That's the way I've alway melted wax as well. Didn't know if preping it for dipping the sheath should be any different.
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    Lone Wolf COWBOYSURVIVAL's Avatar
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    Sounds like it hurt! Funny I am making a knife now.. my first smaller knife I like the bowie size knives too!
    Keep in mind the problem may be extremely complicated, though the "Fix" is often simple...

    "Teaching a child to fish is the "original" introduction to all that is wild." CS

    "How can you tell a story that has no end?" Doc Carlson

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by crashdive123 View Post
    That's the way I've alway melted wax as well. Didn't know if preping it for dipping the sheath should be any different.
    I still use the hot plate. I make my own bullet lube and have it in a flat cake pan. I just throw the pan on the hot plate and when it melts, take it off, set my bullets base first, in the lube, and set it aside to cool.

  16. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by crashdive123 View Post
    That's the way I've alway melted wax as well. Didn't know if preping it for dipping the sheath should be any different.
    I posted a picture of two hacksaw blade knives. The utility knife handle was done the same way. It does a very good job preserving wood. Some of the Williamsburg Gunsmiths use it as a finish on their stocks. They heat the wood and let the wax melt in.

  17. #17
    Super Moderator crashdive123's Avatar
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    Cool (or hot). Thanks.
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    peter nap, Can a sheath be dipped after it has had stain applied?
    -Frank

    Whether the knife falls on the melon or the melon on the knife, the melon suffers. (African Proverb)

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  19. #19
    reclinite automaton canid's Avatar
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    depends on the stain. as long as it's nothing that will clog the porous grain of the leather, the wax should still penetrate well.

    most leather dyes i've seen are either powder, or water/alcohol based. i can't see those creating a problem.
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  20. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by canid View Post
    depends on the stain. as long as it's nothing that will clog the porous grain of the leather, the wax should still penetrate well.

    most leather dyes i've seen are either powder, or water/alcohol based. i can't see those creating a problem.
    What canid said.

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