Check out this anvil.

**panch0** · 07-13-2009, 11:56 PM

If I can't find a rail road track piece I may make me one of these. It said to use a mild steel or 4160 steel for the anvil face.

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**Rick** · 07-14-2009, 12:07 AM

Uh, link, brother. We need a link.

**panch0** · 07-14-2009, 12:13 AM

Here we go.
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**Ravnari86** · 07-14-2009, 12:40 AM

Certainly looks usable, but I think my 110 lb anvil made me spoiled. I use the contours of the anvil too often, and I am far too used to using the entire surface area of it.

**panch0** · 07-14-2009, 12:45 AM

I could only imagine how much that baby cost you. I am a po boy and need something cheap but usable.

**flandersander** · 07-14-2009, 12:57 AM

You're gonna work steel on a bucket? Holy, i guess i'm spoiled too. My great great grand father (i believe) was a blacksmith, and his "traveling" anvil has been passed down through the generations. I am now the proud owner of it. I would say it weighs roughly 100lbs, and is in perfect condition. I'm not sure what he did with his big one, but its gone now. I suppose that block might work if you fill the bucket with concrete or something similar before hand. Although you might find that it would be easier having a horn on the front of that baby, i'm sure that would produce some beautiful pieces with a little practice.

**SARKY** · 07-14-2009, 01:00 AM

I've go an 85 pounder, I think it cost me $20.00 at a barn sale in Maine. You're right, I couldn't do without the contours. My cousin was a farier so he taught me alot about using an anvil.

**Ravnari86** · 07-14-2009, 01:18 AM

My 110 cost me $99, but I had a great job at the time and picked up a brand new one through harbor freight. It's made me back plenty more than it's cost, but if I were to need another one now I'd probably be looking for a railroad tie too.

**Rick** · 07-14-2009, 07:16 AM

I saw several in junk stores last year for $125 to $250 depending on the size. I should be kicked for not having picked one up but passed on all of them.

**crashdive123** · 07-14-2009, 07:55 AM

Here's one I was looking at in case my curiosity expands to a hobby.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...Itemnumber=806

**gryffynklm** · 07-14-2009, 08:41 AM

PanchO,

Keep an eye out at antique stores and barn sales. I'd pay about a buck a pound. Check the face for condition. Rust isn't a big deal unless there is deep pitting. Check the rebound with a hammer or a ball bearing. A good anvil will bounce the hammer back. A 3/4" ball bearing will almost come back to your hand when dropped from about a foot. If the hammer just goes thud, walk away. You want that rebound otherwise you will have to lift the hammer after every strike.

Harbor Freight has decent affordable anvils.

By the way, if the ringing from the anvil bothers you, you can place a magnet on the anvil under the horn to disrupt the resonance. You have to find the sweet spot by moving the magnet around until the ring dampens. On some anvils it doesn't work buts worth a try if the neighbors complain.

**welderguy** · 07-14-2009, 08:59 AM

Originally Posted by crashdive123

Here's one I was looking at in case my curiosity expands to a hobby.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...Itemnumber=806

I recently saw that very anvil at the local pawn shop, they have 65.00 tag on it but would go down to 55.00 if i really wanted it. Thanks for the link.

**panch0** · 07-14-2009, 09:08 AM

This anvil is from a well known knifemakers web site. I can't remember his name. He said something about putting a bead of silicone under the anvil and that would help dampen the ringing. I dunno. Has anybody used a rail road track anvil when starting out?

**panch0** · 07-14-2009, 09:10 AM

The knifemakers name was Tim Lively.
http://64.176.180.203/homemadeanvils.htm
http://64.176.180.203/washtubforge.htm

**Ravnari86** · 07-14-2009, 01:27 PM

I used a railroad section for my first blade. It worked, but the main problem I had was keeping it upright. I was still only 16 when I started with blade work, and couldn't think of a way to stabilize the track piece. I found it lying around at a junk dealer at the local flea market. The other problem I ran into with it was the fact that the entire top face was curved like the horn on the anvil. There was no flat face. I ended up taking a grinder to the top just to flatten part of the rail. Either way, it works in emergencies, but it personally caused me quite a bit of extra work.

**pocomoonskyeyes** · 07-24-2009, 04:22 PM

If you live around a train yard you might stop by and ask. I've seen diagrams of one cut, ground and shaped into a pretty fair imitation of a "store bought" anvil, just smaller. It looks like it would be easier (to work on) than a small block of steel. Maybe a junk yard or metal recycling place.