I found this to be a good source of information on sheath making. I haven't done the wax/oil dip yet, but plan to on my next sheath.
http://beknivessite2.homestead.com/pouchsheath.html
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I found this to be a good source of information on sheath making. I haven't done the wax/oil dip yet, but plan to on my next sheath.
http://beknivessite2.homestead.com/pouchsheath.html
Never thought of that the beeswax should make for a water resistant sheath and protect the leather! I may do this with some of my older sheaths! Thanks Crash!
He makes some fine blades and has simple instructions for file work. I personally like his explanations and step by step instructions without all the junk I no longer use.
Paraffin or wax will work, too. Dip the sheath in hot wax. It will make the sheath stiffer and darken it quite a bit. Of course, it helps with weathering, too.
Nice. I will have to try this on any sheaths I make. That is the basic process I use when I make a sheath. exept for the wax part. I really need to look into that. Thanks Crash!
Bee's wax is very versatile, besides candles.Quote:
Originally Posted by COWBOYSURVIVAL
Was used in early time for a lot of ointments, leather work, and even by blacksmiths to blacken and preserve the iron work.
My lead smelter uses a pea size piece to flux the lead.
Lube your needle when sewing thick leather.
Maybe list it in the multi use thread?
Preserves compound bow strings too!
He is a great knifemaker and a nice fellow. Had his share of financial problems but that's normal for knifemakers. When I was making knivesm Bruce helped me with a lot of things but especially making Damascus.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ole WV Coot
If that's the tutorial where he puts the sheath in hot beeswax and mink oil, watch your tempertures. The first one I did like that came out deep fat fried.
@Peter Nap - how do you heat the wax? He used a crock pot in the tutorial. Do you check the temp with a thermometer?
There's a long story about that. I expect they're still laughing on Blade forums and that's been years ago.Quote:
Originally Posted by crashdive123
I was building a large bowie, about 19" overall. I was going to use poured pewter for the bolsters. I was also cooking the sheath at the same time....anyway..
I was heating the beeswax and mink oil on one hot plate (I don't worry as much as Bruce does) and heating the pewter on another.
While doing that, I was wrapping the Bowie handle to pour. I made my mold from cardboard and wrapped it with duct tape to keep it off of the handle.
I turned the heat up a little on the beeswax and started pulling the duct tape tight on the knife. The duct tape broke and I smacked myself on the forehead with the blade. Cut a big gash. So there I was with molten pewter, ready to pour, hot wax, blood running in my eyes and a Bowie ready to be poured.
I wiped my eyes, superglued my cut and covered it with a rag and duct tape, threw the sheath in and poured my pewter,
The knife came out beautifully, the sheath cooked too long and too hot and I had a headache for a week.
I always used a double boiler when melting any wax... never had a problem with it burning.
***note to self***
one step at a time and wear a helmet.
Thanks.
That's the way I've alway melted wax as well. Didn't know if preping it for dipping the sheath should be any different.Quote:
Originally Posted by laughingbeetle
Sounds like it hurt! Funny I am making a knife now.. my first smaller knife I like the bowie size knives too!
I still use the hot plate. I make my own bullet lube and have it in a flat cake pan. I just throw the pan on the hot plate and when it melts, take it off, set my bullets base first, in the lube, and set it aside to cool.Quote:
Originally Posted by crashdive123
I posted a picture of two hacksaw blade knives. The utility knife handle was done the same way. It does a very good job preserving wood. Some of the Williamsburg Gunsmiths use it as a finish on their stocks. They heat the wood and let the wax melt in.Quote:
Originally Posted by crashdive123
Cool (or hot). Thanks.
peter nap, Can a sheath be dipped after it has had stain applied?
depends on the stain. as long as it's nothing that will clog the porous grain of the leather, the wax should still penetrate well.
most leather dyes i've seen are either powder, or water/alcohol based. i can't see those creating a problem.
What canid said.Quote:
Originally Posted by canid
You can also melt the wax in a microwave.
Heavy shoe polish wax would work well if heated into the leather with a hairdrier. My granfather polished a handmade grandfather clock with oxblood shoe polish it is beautiful!
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