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I recently ordered a Mora 780 knife off of ebay, http://cgi.ebay.com/Mora-780-Craftsm...#ht_1044wt_939 After I ordered it I found out that there was a knock off brand called frost. I sent a message to the seller and asked if the knife was labeled Frosts or Frost. He sent me a reply that said, Thank you for your interest. The knife is marked Frost/Mora/Sweden on the blade. Is this what the real ones say?
Yes.
Here is a better source for them for your next purchase. http://safezonellc.com/mora.html
You're GTG. That's what mine says and its a fine knife. They do rust so keep it oiled. Mac
thanks crash I saw that website earlier today and wished I never ordered it off of Ebay, I'll definetly have to bookmark that site. I noticed on that site that the 780 says frosts on the handle and the one I ordered doesn't. Fake?
As Pict and I said in our above posts - you should be fine.
:) Thanks...
Knives are a bit like cars sometimes. Depends on the year of the car as to what it says on the fender. Current model 780s have sort of an oval engraving on the blade. Across the top it says
Erik Frost. In the center...Mora and underneath..Sweden. As Mac said, they will rust. If you have any trouble you can touch them up with 0000 steel wool and oil them with edible mineral oil.
Whats another option to use besides mineral oil(gun blue? that's what I've heard before)? I don't even know what that is...
Also how much oil should I use and do I remove it when I use the knife? Is it necessary to apply it any time you don't use the knife?
I use mineral oil because it doesn't contaminate meat if you use it for that purpose. If you use a petroleum based oil it will contaminate any food you use the knife on.
You can certainly use a bluing agent on the knife. It will change colors but does help against rust. If I were going to do a cold bluing, I would use something like Brownell's Oxpho-Blue. I've used it on machetes before and it seems to work well.
You don't have to apply more than a thin film. You just want to protect the metal from oxidizing (that's what rust is) or reacting with the oxygen in the atmosphere. Depending on what you use on the blade and what you are going to use the knife for you might WANT to remove the oils. For example, if you use WD40 then want to slice up a squirrel I'd be cleaning the blade before hand...that's why I use mineral oil. Otherwise, there's no need to clean it to use it.
As for applying some protection when you don't use it...What I do is clean my tools, knife, weapon, etc. each time I'm done use them. That way I know they are clean when I put them up and they are ready to use the next time I need them. If you've been in the field and don't address your sheath knife when you get home then you stand the risk of moisture or humidity being inside the sheath and rusting your knife. If you take it out and clean it, you should see any moisture that might have been prevalent. Not to mention the fact that if you've used the knife then something like wood dust could hold moisture against the metal. To avoid all that I wipe it down and apply a thin film of mineral oil.
Hope that helps.
Where do you find mineral oil at Rick? Any paticular brand that is prefered?
The few knives I have right now are stainless and I don't really have to wrry as much, but I should be getting my hands on some carbon-blades here soon so...
I buy mine at Kroger's. Just about any pharmacy and most grocery stores will have it. Mineral oil is one of those miracle drugs that we used to get when we were kids. As we got a bit older we referred to it as "go juice" because you didn't stray far from the bathroom after a good dose of that stuff. It's referred to as a "lubricant laxative". If you have hemorrhoids, it is a wonder drug...so they say...it keeps things...uh...loose.
It's actually a petroleum product but one of those inert ones like petroleum jelly. You can take it internally and it won't cause harm. I suppose, if you wanted to, you could coat your carbon blades with petroleum jelly. It would do exactly the same thing and still be safe to use on food. You can eat petroleum jelly with no ill effects. Just make sure it has no additives and is pure petroleum jelly. Supposedly, the inventor believed in it so much he ate a spoonful of petroleum jelly ever day.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Robert_Chesebrough
Rick is spot on in his advise on care. Crash hit the bulls eye with that website. Good advise fellas! In my experience cold blue works well on carbon steel knives. I never hesitate to use it on a knife that will be used alot and cared for a little. The last one I cold blued was a Case Stockman in chrome vanadium steel. Came out beautiful with a little steel wool and oil between applications of the cold blue. It came out really dark and rich. Really helps to prevent corrosion ,but definately follow Rick's advise on care. Your new knife will give you years of trouble free service with that plan. Oxpho blue is good stuff as is Super Blue from Birchwood Casey. Best
I am going to put a Mora on my Christmas list. I thought that they all came with laminated blades?
Which model would you recommend?
Also, for oil on high carbon knives, a lot of folks recommend linseed oil because it will not go rancid, is actually good for you to eat, and does a good job a protecting your blades.
I looked all over for linseed oil. Couldn't find it anywhere. Then I found out that it is also called flax seed oil. Which I already had at home.
Batch - Food grade mineral oil is in the same arena. It doesn't go rancid and you can ingest it. As to your other question on blade composition:
Mora makes three types of blades:
1. Carbon steel
2. Stainless steel
3. Tri-Flex
Mora's carbon steel blades (1095) are hardened to 59 - 60 on the Rockwell scale Stainless blades to 57 - 58.
Frost's carbon steel blades are hardened to about 59 and the stainless to about 57.
Previously, Frosts used Sandvik 12C27 and Eriksson used 12C27mod (a nearly identical variation).
Sandvik12C57 is composed of Carbon 0.6%, Manganese 0.35%, Chromium 14.0%.
12C57mod, on the other hand, is Carbon-0.52%, Manganese-0.60%, Chromium-14.50%
Currently, all stainless being produced is Sandvik12C27. You may also see if referred to as just 12C27. Those terms are interchangable. However, the Sandvik12C57mod is still in stock in their warehouses so you'll still find retailers advertising it. That will be changing to all Sandvik12C57 as the stock sells down.
A specialty of Mora is the laminated carbon blade. This is a three part sandwich, with a core of high carbon steel protected by sides of tough lower carbon steel. The core of the laminated steel blades is 61-62.
The Swedish stainless holds an excellent edge, IMHO. (Sandvik 12C27mod for Eriksson, Sandvik12C27 for Frosts - Again, this will be changing to Sandvik12C27)
As to which is best? Sort of like the best survival knife. Whatever you like. I'm partial to the Craftsman 780 but it has been discontinued. I personally like the feel of the 946, which is stainless (Sandvik12C27) and the 711, which has a carbon blade. I have an average sized hand and both fit me pretty well. Again, just my opinion.
The only ones I have are the S1 and the 780. They are both great. There is no finger guard on the S1, but that has not been a problem (yet). For the money, you can't beat them. This place sells them at a great price. I recommend one of each.:thumbup1:
That's kinda the root of my question. Do any of the knives on that page have the laminated blade?
I was just going to get the Classic 1. But, it says specifically that it is not a laminated blade. Not a big deal really. But, that is one of the supposed outstanding features of the Mora...
Yes, some of them do. The S2 is one that I know is laminated, and looks the same as the S1.
Batch - I sent you a PM.
I'd get a 780 before they are all gone, Not sure if it is laminated or not? I bought one and have considered another before their all gone.
Yes, the 780 has the tri-flex or laminated blade.
Why doesn't Mora make their knives with a full tang? I've owned a couple Mora's and they all broke about 1 1/2 back from the guard. It is really unsettling when it happens.
When they broke on you were you in an extreme cold environment? Have you tried the wooden handle S1 or S2?
What do you consider "extreme cold"?Quote:
Originally Posted by crashdive123
One broke in the summer when one of my clients stepped on it, temp in the mid 60's. One broke in the fall while field dressing a caribou, temp was in the mid to high 30's. I was cutting the breast bone when the handle snapped. The third one I didn't have a chance to break. A friend gave it to me and I turned around and through it in the river. All of them had plastic handles.
Gotcha.
Extreme cold is when I have to wear long pants.
I'm still wearing t-shirts, cotton pants and moc's.
How does the warmer weather affect your trapping?
KlkakQuote:
Originally Posted by klkak
The Mora's with wooden handles have a "full" stick tang, and I've heard stories of people sticking them into trees and standing on them. But the Mora's with plastic handles do not the blad only goes back about 1/3 of the way, right were your two broke. Next time I'd go for a #1 with a birch handle and you shouldn't have any breakage problems. The birch handled ones are tention held though so the tang is kind of free in the middle, But I've heard of guys filling them with wood puddy or apoxy and they've remained rock solid.
The trapping is not to bad but the prices are going to suck this year, again.Quote:
Originally Posted by crashdive123
Thanks you for the info. However I don't think I'll ever buy another Mora. Besides I'm making my own knives now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dross
It depends on the model you have, Klkak. None of them are full tang but some are longer than others. My guess is it's a matter of price. More metal means a higher price. But that's just my cut on it.
Here's an Xray that compares a few of the Moras:
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_WdyPXq5eKX.../mora+xray.jpghttp://1.bp.blogspot.com/_WdyPXq5eKX.../mora+xray.jpghttp://1.bp.blogspot.com/_WdyPXq5eKX.../mora+xray.jpg
Top to bottom:
Craftsman
Clipper
711
2000
510
These are not $100 knives. Most are around $20 including shipping. Still, for that price, they are pretty danged good knives.
Klkak, no problem, I'm hesitant to get one myself. Good on ya for making your own now. I'm getting there slowly but surely.
Rick, send me a 2000 and I'll give it an honest try out. If it fails I'll send the pieces back to you. I'll even document what I use it for.:smash:Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick
PM me your address and it's on the way. The 2000 is stainless just so you know.
if you are going to blue it, try what is called plum brown. You can find it at bass pro or about any gun/outdoor shop. It comes out kind of a olive drab brownish semiflat color and looks really good on a knife.
sjj - If you think about the climate the Mora "grew up" in and the things it was historically used for then it had better be a pretty good knife to last as long as it has. I have read of a few (Klak included) of the plastic handles breaking but given the numbers of knives in use vs. breakage I would think it a very low number. Sort of like glockcops Glocks. Some are just going to fail. That's a given. You just want it as close to 0 as humanly possible.
My evidence is anectdotal only and I have seen no numbers to back up my opinion. Although, I have done some serious looking to see how wide spread the problem might actually be.
I Ordered A 780 Off Of The Site Rick Has. Got Here Damn Fast... I'm Impressed, Simple But Solid. And After Paying $14.00 Total I Wouldn't Be To Sad If I Broke It Or Lost It. Think I'll Be Buying A Few More And Throw Them In The Truck Tool Box And A Few Other Places.
Thank you.
I guess that's the thing with most tools. You typically want to invest good money in a tool that will last a very long time. I do that. But, at the same time, I don't invest top dollar in something like screw drivers that I'll have a lot of and keep them all over the place. I don't want one that will break the third time I use it but I don't need a bunch of Klein or SnapOn tools that will be in my glove box or trunk. And I'll bet everyone on here has bought hand tools at Lowe's or Home Depot. Why? Because they were inexpensive and they do the job they were designed for.
I carry a RAT-7 in case I need something big but I also have a few others that I know I can count on even if they don't cost $100 bucks. Just my opinion.
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