Can you help me bring an old hatchet back to life

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11-14-2008, 03:03 PM
ADEPT

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Can you help me bring an old hatchet back to life

I found an old E.C. Simmons Keen Kutter hatchet head in the dirt on our farm where a shed used to be. It must be at least a hundred years old, but I can still read the stamped trademark easily. I took a wire brush to it and knocked off most of the rust, but that's as far as I've gone. It has some surface pitting from rust but its not too bad. I would like to bring the metal out as shiny as I can so I can hang it on the wall in my shop with some of the other odds and ends I think look good as decoration. I must admit I don't have a lot of metal working skills so I'm a little lost as to what the process would be in order to do this. I can get access to most any kind of equipment I would need, but I don't know where to start. Would I want to sandblast it and then work on it with a buffer pad and polishing paste or just go straight to using the buffer and paste or use some other method? Thanks for any insight you can give.
11-14-2008, 04:35 PM
chiye tanka

You could try Never Dull. You should be able to get it at any hardware store. Comes in a blue can.
11-14-2008, 04:46 PM
ADEPT

Quote:

Originally Posted by chiye tanka

You could try Never Dull. You should be able to get it at any hardware store. Comes in a blue can.

tried that. I gotta goto more drastic measures.
11-14-2008, 04:58 PM
chiye tanka

Try a rust eraser. If that doesn't help, elbow grease.
11-14-2008, 05:01 PM
chiye tanka

I forgot, I cleaned my grandad's WWII Ka-Bar with a can of Coke and some FINE steel wool. Try that.
11-14-2008, 05:02 PM
ADEPT

Quote:

Originally Posted by chiye tanka

I forgot, I cleaned my grandad's WWII Ka-Bar with a can of Coke and some FINE steel wool. Try that.

ah, I forgot about that one. Thanks
11-14-2008, 05:05 PM
chiye tanka

Good luck, I hope it works. Let me know.
11-14-2008, 05:07 PM
crashdive123

I brought some old tools back to life starting as you did. Next I put it under a brass wheel on my bench grinder. I then too some wet/dry sand paper to them starting out with 220 grit and ending with 1000 grit. Final step was jewelers rouge and a buffing wheel. Mirror finish.
11-14-2008, 06:00 PM
ADEPT

Quote:

Originally Posted by crashdive123

I brought some old tools back to life starting as you did. Next I put it under a brass wheel on my bench grinder. I then too some wet/dry sand paper to them starting out with 220 grit and ending with 1000 grit. Final step was jewelers rouge and a buffing wheel. Mirror finish.

Thanks crash, looks like I'm going to Lowes tonight.
11-14-2008, 07:23 PM
Gray Wolf

Yeah what crash said, also a Dremmel tool or any other rotary tool would work if you don't have a bench grinder. Be careful around the trademark stamp.
11-14-2008, 08:26 PM
Ole WV Coot

I'm gonna be different. That's a nice looking head the way it is. I would keep it in its present condition except for rust removal and go buy another one to use. I have a few old tools my great grandpa had before 1900 and some hardware grandpa brought back from WWI, and a couple of swords from Japan WWII plus tools. I don't like to do more than necessary on old stuff, but that's me.
11-15-2008, 06:09 AM
old soldier

I'd put it in a hot forge or if you have a torch with a rose bud tip and get it red hot, them plung it in a pail of cold water, that will blow most of the rust off it. do a search about tempering it, you may have to buy a small cam of Kasenit depending on how good you want it, if you want it to hang on the wall or for use.
11-15-2008, 12:16 PM
ADEPT

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ole WV Coot

I'm gonna be different. That's a nice looking head the way it is. I would keep it in its present condition except for rust removal and go buy another one to use. I have a few old tools my great grandpa had before 1900 and some hardware grandpa brought back from WWI, and a couple of swords from Japan WWII plus tools. I don't like to do more than necessary on old stuff, but that's me.

It does have a certain rustic look. hummm. I'm undecided on which I like better. I think I'll clean it up some more and put a new handle in it, then see how it looks and go from there.

Would you soak it in oil without the splits or shims (I'm not sure what to call them) or put them in and then soak it?
11-15-2008, 04:52 PM
chiye tanka

I read an article in Field & Stream that said to take an old coffee can and fill it with silica sand and old motor oil. When you're not using it, they keep it oiled and clean and the handle will keep from drying out as well.
11-15-2008, 07:58 PM
klkak

Let it soak over night in a pan of white vinegar. Then wash with clean water and a scrub brush. All the rust will come off. I use this for cleaning my traps.
11-15-2008, 08:09 PM
klkak

Keen Kutter is a trade name first used by Simmons Hardware Company of St. Louis, Missouri in 1866. The name was adopted as a trademark by Simmons Hardware Company in 1870 and was used on their highest quality tools and cutlery.

Simmons Hardware Company was purchased by arch rival Shapleigh Hardware Company (also of St. Louis) in 1940. Shapleigh Hardware Company was known for their premium brand Diamond Edge. After Shapleigh acquired the Keen Kutter trademark it was modified by replacing the "E.C. Simmons" in the top of the logo with Shapleigh's. Shapleigh continued to use the trademark on products until they went out of business in 1960.

After several years the Keen Kutter trademark was sold to Val-Test Distributors of Chicago, Illinois, a wholesale hardware buyers group. Val-Test allows smaller wholesale hardware companies to order goods. The orders are combined with orders from other hardware companies allowing for quantity discounts from manufactures. After Val-Test acquired the trademark they removed the "Shapleigh's" leaving the top of the logo blank. Val-Test discontinued the Keen Kutter line of goods during the 1990s. Also during the 1990s limited use of the Keen Kutter trademark was authorized for a line of pocket knives distributed by Frost Cutlery Co.
11-15-2008, 10:02 PM
ADEPT

Quote:

Originally Posted by klkak

Keen Kutter is a trade name first used by Simmons Hardware Company of St. Louis, Missouri in 1866. The name was adopted as a trademark by Simmons Hardware Company in 1870 and was used on their highest quality tools and cutlery.

Simmons Hardware Company was purchased by arch rival Shapleigh Hardware Company (also of St. Louis) in 1940. Shapleigh Hardware Company was known for their premium brand Diamond Edge. After Shapleigh acquired the Keen Kutter trademark it was modified by replacing the "E.C. Simmons" in the top of the logo with Shapleigh's. Shapleigh continued to use the trademark on products until they went out of business in 1960.

After several years the Keen Kutter trademark was sold to Val-Test Distributors of Chicago, Illinois, a wholesale hardware buyers group. Val-Test allows smaller wholesale hardware companies to order goods. The orders are combined with orders from other hardware companies allowing for quantity discounts from manufactures. After Val-Test acquired the trademark they removed the "Shapleigh's" leaving the top of the logo blank. Val-Test discontinued the Keen Kutter line of goods during the 1990s. Also during the 1990s limited use of the Keen Kutter trademark was authorized for a line of pocket knives distributed by Frost Cutlery Co.

You just can't beat the quality of most older products. We have lost much by manufacturing for bottom line instead of quality, pride and customer satisfaction.
11-16-2008, 08:45 AM
crashdive123

I've gotta say. The more I think about it, the more I like Ole WV Coot's idea (happens a lot around here). Either way you go, it was a great find and will probably be the topic of conversations for years to come.
11-16-2008, 11:14 AM
catfish10101

I'd have to agree with Coot also. Carve you a hardwood handle and put that thing on the wall just like it is.
11-16-2008, 11:55 AM
ADEPT

Yep, Coot's idea was best. I'll post another pic when I get the handle carved. Thanks all
11-19-2008, 10:42 AM
trax

I've been following this thread, contributing nothing, just waited for everyone to come around and agree with Dad. After all, he should know how old stuff likes to be treated.

Sounds like a nice piece of equipment to own anyway, ADEPT. One of the things that always broke my heart was the number of antique tools that disappeared when my first Dad passed away. He had carpentry tools that belonged to his Grandfather and still used them. A few of his "friends" managed to help themselves to some really cool stuff that should have been inherited by me and my brothers.
11-19-2008, 04:25 PM
klkak

That hatchet didn't have a "mammy made" hand carved handle on it when it was new. Why put one on it now. Any good hardware store will have hatchet handles. That style of hatchet would have had a straight handle on it.

http://www.mjdtools.com/tools/graphics/133359_lg.jpg
11-19-2008, 04:41 PM
Reiver

good find

+1 on ol' coot's solution. I think it would not have had a mirror finish originally, so keep it as is. Just put an edge and a period handle on it. Nice find mate, what a classic! <thumbs up>.
11-20-2008, 12:09 AM
Nomad

rust remover

I use a product called navel jelly. it will remove all the rust and leave you with clean metal which you can coat with oil and preserve it. Good on toast too...
11-20-2008, 12:13 AM
klkak

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nomad

I use a product called navel jelly. it will remove all the rust and leave you with clean metal which you can coat with oil and preserve it. Good on toast too...

Good on toast? I hope one of our less mature members doesn't try it on their toast!
11-20-2008, 07:40 AM
crashdive123

Warning to our younger members - or older ones that may not know..... Naval jelly is a mild acid (organophosphoric acid) and should not be put on toast. Naval lint on the other hand.......
11-20-2008, 04:12 PM
AVENGED

I Agree With Old Soldier. And With The Heat It'll Kina Leave You A Blank Canvas. You Can Either Polish It Up, Or There Even Tricks To Get It To Gain Some Surface Rust And Look Aged.
11-20-2008, 05:24 PM
old soldier

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nomad

I use a product called navel jelly. it will remove all the rust and leave you with clean metal which you can coat with oil and preserve it. Good on toast too...

I use Navel jell on old rusted truck frames after i've knocked off all the loose rust and before sand blasting,but before painting it's supposed to keep it from rusting anymore also. I think there is still a case of the peptoe bismoe looking stuf in the shop,
11-20-2008, 05:58 PM
old soldier

an interesting site that i ran across while looking up some info on an old hatchet that i have..
http://www.yesteryearstools.com/Yest...s,%20etc..html
11-20-2008, 10:03 PM
ADEPT

Quote:

Originally Posted by old soldier

an interesting site that i ran across while looking up some info on an old hatchet that i have..
http://www.yesteryearstools.com/Yest...s,%20etc..html

hey thanks, great link, very interesting stuff.
11-20-2008, 10:06 PM
ADEPT

Quote:

Originally Posted by AVENGED

I Agree With Old Soldier. And With The Heat It'll Kina Leave You A Blank Canvas. You Can Either Polish It Up, Or There Even Tricks To Get It To Gain Some Surface Rust And Look Aged.

I'm going with Coot's idea and leaving it with a more rustic/aged look.
11-20-2008, 10:11 PM
ADEPT

Quote:

Originally Posted by trax

I've been following this thread, contributing nothing, just waited for everyone to come around and agree with Dad. After all, he should know how old stuff likes to be treated.

Sounds like a nice piece of equipment to own anyway, ADEPT. One of the things that always broke my heart was the number of antique tools that disappeared when my first Dad passed away. He had carpentry tools that belonged to his Grandfather and still used them. A few of his "friends" managed to help themselves to some really cool stuff that should have been inherited by me and my brothers.

sorry to here that, but may karma or the laws of treating people right catch up with those people. I'm in a situation sort of like that now, but that's a whole other story.
11-20-2008, 10:13 PM
crashdive123

ADEPT - remember....it's not an aged look....it's an experienced look.
11-20-2008, 10:17 PM
ADEPT

Quote:

Originally Posted by klkak

That hatchet didn't have a "mammy made" hand carved handle on it when it was new. Why put one on it now. Any good hardware store will have hatchet handles. That style of hatchet would have had a straight handle on it.

http://www.mjdtools.com/tools/graphics/133359_lg.jpg

I'm having trouble finding one that I think does the head justice. Most just aren't sturdy enough for my liking. What type of wood do you think would be the most true to the period and hold up to heavy use? I'm not planning on using it but I want a tool that I could use and would hold up if I needed it.
11-20-2008, 10:18 PM
ADEPT

Quote:

Originally Posted by crashdive123

ADEPT - remember....it's not an aged look....it's an experienced look.

haha true. all old folks jokes aside :D
11-20-2008, 11:34 PM
FVR

Don't like the new stuff look. I like the used look.

Had a choice once, three bp pistols. 2 were new, one was dirt old. Yeh, I picked the old one.

Old things have stories somewhere. Some think that they may have medicine, while others just don't like to look like a new greenhorn.

Every piece of my gear has a story, if it doesn't, I get rid of it.
11-21-2008, 10:27 AM
trax

Quote:

Originally Posted by FVR

Every piece of my gear has a story, if it doesn't, I get rid of it.

I always like your thinking Frank, any of my gear that didn't have a 'story' when I got it sure got one soon after.