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Just had an idea for a knife profile. One of these days I'll have the time to start making knives again. Until then I'll have to live with thinking of new designs. Feel free to use the design if you like it.
http://i1096.photobucket.com/albums/...der/Knife6.jpg
I have really strong opinions on knives and what makes them usable.
That said, remove the finger notch on the blade and drag thr plunge cut as close to the guard as possible.
I know that the notch is to put your finger in for blade control, but if the blade is closer to the handle that the actual handle provides that control without the need of the uncomfortable forefinger grip.
I like having a choil just in front of the guard!
That is an awesome design! That is a definite winner!
Choil or no choil, I like it.
I like it too. I do not know what you have planned on the end there, but a nice piece nickel or brass to counterweight the blade would be perfect.
Cool design.
If I ever get it made I'll have to call it the ABK-II. For "Alaska Bush Knife II"
Imagine it with orange and black "Crashcarta" scales. In say a 3-2 ratio.
That end part of the handle is just bare steel with a lanyard hole in it.Quote:
Originally Posted by klickitat
Now that I've got a heat treat oven I should be able to do it. 1875* for 30 minutes, air quench and then 500* for two hours X 2.Quote:
Originally Posted by klkak
Crash it would be a thing of beautyQuote:
Originally Posted by crashdive123
Well played, Klkak. Very well played indeed. Post the design and have someone else make it. You, sir, are smooooooth.
Thanks for noticing and pointing it out to everyone.:eyepoke:Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick
You're very welcome. I ..... oh ......oops.
Oh, I had already discussed making another for him.
If I were you I'd make a tiny life preserver for it.
Hmmmmmmmm? A knife preserver.:idea:
I preheat at 1450 for 25 minutes, then bring it to 1875 for another 25 min. Air quench (between two aluminum plates) and run my temper cycles around 900. 450-650 tempering heat seems to leave it brittle but the curve comes back into the RC 58-60 around 750-1000. It seems to like the higher temps for tempering, but that is just my experience with D-2....which is limited.Quote:
Originally Posted by crashdive123
Maybe attach a float to the hole in the handle. He should be able to find this one.
http://www.martinmachado.com/images/Buoy.jpg
The guy that gave me those numbers has been using D2 for several years. I still need to check with one other experienced maker, and of course the heat treat data sheets that I've got tucked away someplace.
Of course, all input is welcome. Thanks Camp10.
If he has been using that formula for years, use it. The great thing about knifemaking is that there are a dozen right ways to do a single task!Quote:
Originally Posted by crashdive123
I'll still consult my charts and check the other maker since he's been my local go to guy for questions.
I'm gonna come visit you and open up a drive through in your house for your survival gear business.:tank:Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick
The only reason I suggested D-2 is that it is a little more rust resistant then 1095. However 1095 is my personal favorite blade steel.
That looks like a pretty strong design. Looking forward to the progress.
Paul
Speaking of heat treating. When I was working on my first cpm154cm blade. I pm'd 5 other veteran knifemakers who have a good name and make quality stuff. Well I got 5 different heat treatments. I just got confused even more. hehehe..
that's very much my sort of blade for general use as well.
the handle profile looks like a pleasure to use (and a pain to grind/contour).
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