Man, that thing just makes me grin! I love that knife! Great work.... as usually!
Sorry but I'm going to copy it, add a gut hook and use antler scales. I just have too!
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Man, that thing just makes me grin! I love that knife! Great work.... as usually!
Sorry but I'm going to copy it, add a gut hook and use antler scales. I just have too!
Very nice work Canid!!
I'm sorry I thought you had a drill press,Don't know why, but I did. Perhaps some nails driven in a board?? 4 nails driven in should provide adequate "Bracing".
i've got a couple of quick release clamps that work great, when i remember to use them.
and ted: none of my craft work posted here is intellectual property; copy away. just make sure to post lots and lots of knife porn while you do it :D
LOL... Well thank you! Man I going to have to break down and by a camera. The photos of the knives I've made are from me laying them on the scanner,LOL. Already given away a couple without posting them because the scans were so s****y! Grainny porn sucks! LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by canid
Now granny porn on the other hand....(ooops, did I just type that out loud!!!):blushing::blushing::blushing:
Well done. Glad the disc sander is working out for you.
love that Koa.
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/img_0262.jpg
i would be interested in donating one of this pair for a DOC auction if anybody is game.
That's a generous offer. If you want to, just start a thread like Poco did and then it'll be off to the races.
sounds like a plan. first i need to do the finish work, etc.
i think the one on offer will probably be the second blade; i'm not sure much epoxy got between the scales and the pins to stand the test of time.
the pins for the second blade will be roughed up better, and slightly tapered.
started a couple more today. i just can't help myself:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/img_0263.jpg
btw: should we move this to the knife forum?
Man! You sure are becoming a production line. Nice work. If you want it moved, I will - fits here in the Making Stuff forum as well.
I really like the Kukri Canid! Good shape work. I was wanting to do one for my next project. I am hung up right now trying to decide if I want to temper after my mineral spirits controlled quench, which seems to have worked well. I left the edge the thickness of a dime for heattreat and have now taken it to a convex edge using a wet stone. It seems to take an edge good. May have to do some tests before I mount the scales...
ease in taking an edge is half the battle.
thickness of a dime is way thicker than you should need to leave it for heat treat. i think you're just making more work for yourself.
I would temper it CS! When I was experimenting with that steel, I quenched in animal fat (because I figured that's how 200 year old steel should be quenched) and I was very surprised how hard I was able to get it. I think I send the method I used and the hardness I measured when I was done. I cant remember the numbers off hand but It was very hard and very brittle after quench.
update and a new one:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/two-more.jpg
i can't stop myself.
of course i'm not satisfied with that bevel on the bottom one. i'll work on it quite a bit more. that's what happens when you get into too much of a hurry.
Canid, are the marks on the top blade for a fuller? Nice job!
that was my desire, but this stock is really too thin for my liking, and i don't think i could grind in a fuller without risk of cutting through.
i think i'll just keep the template i made for this blade and do it again the next time i have thicker stock.
note to self:
glue up scales before sanding pins flush!
i got my hands on a couple old steel bed rails. i've cut out a few blanks, and started another blade from the template i was talking about earlier.
it's just like the top one in the last pic, though the blade is a hair wider, and this stock is a little thicker.
the stock has nice sparks, and i've heard those rails tend to be simple steel. i'm thinking in the .60% C range, at a wild guess. i'll be hardening the first one soon enough, and i'll try an oil quench first, i think.
They are a higher carbon steel but I dont know the range either. I am very interested in what you come up with on your heat treat, I have a pile of them upstairs in the garage just doing nothing.:innocent:Quote:
Originally Posted by canid
if they turn out to be something comparable to 1060, they'll make good practice for differential tempering and playin' with clay :D
Having cut some scrap bed rail...I'd say your right it isn't A36...something with a little more carbon maybe....
definitely more carbon then mild steel. it's almost certainly as rolled, it's only slightly hard, so it seems to be that would probably make it hot rolled.
in it's state, i get some pretty impressive single splitting of the spall when i grind it. as far as i know, that indicates a pretty good carbon content.
to show you what i mean; here's a comparison:
here is a known mild steel nail:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...ng/nail-01.jpg
and here is the bed rail, as is:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...bedrail-01.jpg
when i do the heat treat, i'll do an extra piece to show one of the bed rail after normalizing, and then after hardening.
it hardens well in oil [the file wouldn't cut it for removing the scale on the bevel, and i had to use a sanding block]. i'm charging up the camera batteries now. i forgot to do it last night.
post heat treat:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...e/img_0268.jpg
and after cleanup:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...e/img_0270.jpg
i'm also getting started on the scales today. i think i've got a friend comming by today to see about hand fitment, so this knife might be sold.
sharpening and polishing a bevel this hard is an enourmous PITA. the guy intends to cut rope with it though, so it's either this, or he'll be dressing it every 3 cuts.
Very nicely done.
next one is shaping up to be a clip point version of the same knife:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...d/img_0274.jpg
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...on-03-2010.jpg
and the next crop, also slight modifications to the template used for the last one:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...ks-various.jpg
It looks like you have developed your own unique style! I like the handle shape, nice work!
Nice!!! You have quite the assortment of blades!!
Looks like you should be about ready to set up a table at the next knife show.
not yet, but maybe in a year or two [if i go on spending half of my time working on them, as i have been].
i think that when i can round up a decent part time job [walmart looks like they blew me off], i can put a little more cash into the workshop, and will be able to do a good many things better or more efficiently.
between this and the bows, i can't wait to have a steadier flow of resources.
i've got a couple of blades which will be ready for the heat treat tomorrow, so i thought i'd try something new to me.
i'm going to try for my first differential temper.
i excavated some more subsoil, and crumbled it well. i sifted it out through a fine sieve to remove most of the humic matter, and filled a mason jar 4/5 full. i added water until all the air in the soil was displaces, and skimmed off everything that floated, to remove most of the rest of the humus.
i placed the lid on the jar, and shook it well for about 5 min, then sat it down to settle. i let it settle for half an hour, then slowly poured off most of the water, along with the little remainder of organic material. i gave it another brisk shake, and set it back down again to settle, this time until the water was pretty much clear.
the sand and clay stratafied, with the vast majority of the coarser sand and the fine iron and other dense components settling out first, to the very bottom. next, most of the fine sand, and almost all the rest of the coarse stuff. next, the remainder of the fine sand/silt, along with much of the inorganic clay. lastly, the remainder of the inorganic clay, along with the very finest of the organic material, which is very hard to get rid of by this method. this 'organic muck' is the stuff often confused with real clay, and for our purposes, i believe it is fine.
i carefully poured the water, and the top layer of clay which readily returned to suspension onto a flat surface [in this case, the bottom half of a pizza box], letting the excess water run out.
being greedy [trying to recover as much of the clay as possible, i reached my hand into the jar to scoop out much of the clay which did not go back into suspension in the water. this is where the bulk of the clay ends up, and i didn't want to go through a second separatory process. as a result, i believe i ended up with a lot of the fine sand still in my clay.
i scooped out the bbq grill, and dumped out the ash from the forge, and passed these through the fine sieve, over the clay mixture, mixing it in afterward.
to thicken this up, and add still more plastic material to the mix, i also added some fine wood dust from behind my sander. this doubtless contained a lot of fine steel dust as well.
i mixed these in well, and the wood dust turned out to be coarser than i had supposed. next time i will sift only the very finest of this material out as well.
with the mix stiffer and gritter than i has hoped, i figured i'd give it a shot anyway. i spread it on the blade with a piece of bamboo [thicker than i should have], and began to run a fine splinter of wood over the bevel, scooping off the excess clay mixture. i next made a second pass, taking quasi-regular 'dips' to remove extra clay from small parts of the side of the blade further than the line of the bevel. this did not work well wtih the material being as i said, too stiff. i managed to get the job done, with a poor looking line, and way too thick a layer of clay on the blade.
in between sides, i used my heat gun to speed the drying process, so my goop didn't fall off, but so i didn't have to wait long. even with such rapid partial drying there is no sign of cracking.
this is set by to dry overnight, after which i will give it a full drying, again with the heat gun, and it will be heat treated tomorrow if all turns out well.
because it turned out so thick, just after it is dry, i am going to carefully remove much of the thickness by gentle sanding. i figure if the clay flakes off during this procedure, it probably would have flaked off during firing or quenching.
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/img_0279.jpg
i have no idea how reasonable my choice and proportions of components in the mixture are, but i have heard of each of them being used, unless i'm mistaken, and they should keep it nice and plastic, plenty 'sticky' and insulative enough.
wish me luck, and don't hesitate to add any recommendations if you will.
heat treat today:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/before-1.jpg
and out of the quench, wtih the bevels cleaned up:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...ives/after.jpg
i got a good head start on cleaning the little one up, because i'm going crazy waiting to see of a hamon was produced.
i managed to sand it down to a reasonable thickness, and smoothe out the fine cracks with my finger and a few drops of water. i believe there was far too much combustable material [wood dust and carbon rich ash], as it was soft and punky when it came out of the forge, and mostly crumbled away during immersion.
i have only drawn the temper on the small one. the other two will be done shortly; i wanted to play around with tempering by heat-gun.
i've spent the last hour working the small blade on the stones, and i do think i begin to see slight hints of a hamon developing; it's so far just faint suggestions of what look like the ashi. the steel is not nearly smooth enough yet to be sure.
i'm going to polish it to 1500grit paper, and rub on some mild vinegar after that.
what i'll do next time is mix the clay mixture i already have 50/50 with fresh clay. it should be the right consistency at a much lower water content that way anyway, and should stick better.