i heard that swamp rat and scrapyard knives are kinda like the left over blanks and scraps from the busse factory.
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i heard that swamp rat and scrapyard knives are kinda like the left over blanks and scraps from the busse factory.
oh really? So they're kind of like Busse 2nds? Well that's kind of cool, I'd buy one of them over a Busse, just because of the price difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by tonester
No "seconds" of any sort to be sure, they are excellent blades and the prices they command (outside and most times ABOVE MSRP) speaks for itself.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blood Groove
There is almost a cult following with these "Bussekin" knives and that is not a slur, just the way it is (check out what the discontinued models are selling for on Ebay).
Example: How many knife companies can actually sell a knife without even offering a sheath and have no complaints from its customers?
I think the two companies morphed from Busse and early on they made knives/handles that were left over from (possibly discontinued) Busse offerings.
Swamprat/Scrapyard blades are 100% new and many designs/blade steels are separate from what Busse currently produces. No less tough, just different models.
Less expensive than Busse? Definitely. Lesser quality? Hardly.
To get the full history, I would check out both Swamprat/Scrapyard website/forums for details.
Busse really doesn't sell sheath with their knives? Wow. Well I have to start looking into swamp rat knives. I should get one. Heck if they're the same quality as a Busse and a cheaper price, I'd be crazy not to get one.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leighman
BG, talk to Gray Wolf, he knows a lot about Swamp Rat knives.
Busse does have links to sheath makers on their site. I went with Okaden.
Some Busse/Scrapyard/Swamprat models actually do come with a sheath but a lot of folks seem to go the custom route (leather and kydex).Quote:
Originally Posted by Blood Groove
Custom leather rigs can me made pretty stout these days but I prefer kydex for its durability and the minimal care that is required.
My Dumpster Mutt has a 5-ich blade that is right around .285 in thickness. Once the edge has been properly convexed, there are few outdoor tasks (big & small) that this knife cannot accomplish.
i have been in the market for a survival knife, such as a kbar, but dont want to spend alot. any thoughts on the matter?
www.ragweedforge.com
Look up the Frost's and KJ Eriksons Mora knives. I am partial to the 780 Triflex Craftsman and for around $10 you can't go wrong with anything on those pages. If you are really looking for a solid "user" knife for the bush pick one up and you will be happy.
http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/6445/780jk7.jpg
I got turned on to Mora's a number of years ago and have almost 20 of them now. I always take one along to the bush no matter what else I carry and they get more actual use than any other blade I take out there aside from my machetes. They are the most bang for the buck in the knife world. Mac
Stay away from bad brand names, carolina, winchester,... and dont go for anything like a military knife, they are one of the worst kinds of knives in a survival situation. (the knife in first blood)
But here are some things to consider
Weight
length
tang
# of uses
I would recommend something like a Gerber, buck, they have good steel and are very practical. Do you want fixed blade or a spring?
Also do you want to hunt with it? If so you may want one that you can throw or that is large.
i agree with pict, mora knives are very good for the price. if you want to spend some more money i would go with a ka-bar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pict
I have that very knife. Have had it for a few years now, holds a good edge and its the one i use for everything. Its a good all around knife. The sheave is now wrapped in snare wire, fishing line, masons line and sisal twine along with a mini fire steel and fish hooks and finally a lanyard with a small compass. No ones going to ow and ohh over it but its what works for me.
Just go buy a knife that you like and use it. If it don't work for you then put it away and buy another one and try it. Keep it up until you find the knife that is best for you.
While you are at it, take a look at this thread. This subject has been covered in depth.
http://www.wilderness-survival.net/f...ead.php?t=1297
Was going to give this one a day or two then move it.
Personally I don't like Mora knives. Every one I've owned has broken just back of the hilt where to tang ends. This has always happened in very cold weather but it still happened. Therefore I will never own another one.
These words from a man who lives where it's a hundred below in the good weather...hmmmm....:D...gotta agree with your first post, though. I think for everyone here, any knife you have on you is a survival knife. When I was a kid, we managed pretty good out in the bush with some cheapa$$ed knives because that was all we could afford. Learn how to sharpen a knife if you don't know how, a small sharpening stone isn't going to make some huge weight difference to how much you're packing if you're out hiking somewhere and a dull knife is...a metal stick.
Did the metal break, or the epoxy (or whatever is used) give in the extreme cold?
Trax, I still have my first survival knife (a Barlow 2 bladed folder). I think my mom may have paid a dollar for it if that. It has good high carbon steel in the blade. I made it work cause it was all I had. When I was about ten I started also carrying a 6 or 7" butcher knife with me. It was better for gutting and skinning deer with. My Grandfather had made it from a crosscut saw blade. I wish I still had that one.Quote:
Originally Posted by trax
I now have a few very high quality knives so I don't have to mess around with cheap knives any more.
No the metal did not break. The handle its self would crack or the glue would crack and the blade would come loose.Quote:
Originally Posted by crashdive123
I've seen Moras under x-ray and the tang portion is pretty thin and somewhat short. Also, I do not know how they are encased within the plastic handles as they are absent of any pins.Quote:
Originally Posted by crashdive123
The Mora 2000 appears to have to most substantial tang of them all.
I have 3-4 Moras and I like their lightweight and lack of expense but I consider them for cutting & slicing chores only.
For hacking/chopping/batoning I prefer a stiffer and thicker blade (RAT/Ontario/Scrapyard/Swamprat/Busse).
While a machete and/or camp axe is desireable, my own "carry always" kit (Blackhawk E&E bag) doesn't allow for the added weight or bulk of longer cutting/chopping tools.
Knives are as personal ( if not more so) than guns; you will get 1000 opinions.
That said, just about any Busse/Scrapyard/Swamprat is bulletproof. Not hype, just a simple fact. of couse, not everyone wants to fork over 100+ bucks for an outdoors blade.
For under $100, Onratio's RAT series are very tough and easy to sharpen in the field (1095 carbon).
While I am frugal as the next guy, I have learned to not scrimp on quality outdoor gear, ESPECIALLY knives. Right up there with your fire-making skills/tools is the ability to have a cutting tool that will not let you down!Quote:
Originally Posted by sniperfx
You may want to check out Becker knives (now marketed by Ka-Bar). They are quite sturdy and very well constructed.
Many folks love the Ka-Bar/Pilot's Survival Knife (made under contract by Ontario/Camillus/Ka-Bar/Case/etc).
While they both have a rich history with our Armed Forces there are much better all-pupose field knives available in today's marketplace.