I forgot all about tool dip. I have a couple of cans laying around - thanks.
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It is not a matter of being "right."
You simply have a different opinion.
A failure to discuss the possibilites than one might NOT have the correct "tool for the job" in EVERY single wilderness/survival scenario is a sign of immaturity.
I am glad you are prepared for every possible emergency there is. I am not and the reason I posted my own non-scientific experiences in the first place.
Did you even read my posts?
I did not advocate anyone run outside and begin batoning wood!
I DID advocate that if forced to rely on ONE knife (not a hatchet, not an axe, not a machete...) that it be exceptionally durable and sturdy.
Back on topic, once again and I won't mention the "B" word.
Anyone out there have any blades that didn't make the cut (so to speak)?
Surprisingly (in today's lawsuit-crazed society), there are a few knife manufacturers that offer to repair and/or replace their knives "no matter what!"
From what I've read, the Gerber LMF II has been really shining in the Sand Box and has taken on a multitude of combat-oriented tasks (hammering, prying, and cutting things a little harder than wood) with no failures.
I guess when the bullets are flying, the "right tool for the job" is the one you have at the time, huh? ;)
I can vouch for Gerber. Friend and I jabbed, pried and tore a softball-sized burl from a pine tree's root using a gerber folder. Only bent it a little bit when we were getting disgusted at the holding power of that damn wart
You've got that right. When I was a kid everyone carried a Case XX pocket knife and except for youngsters nobody bothered carrying a fixed blade. You did everything that swam, walked or flew with one pocket knife that lasted for many years, sharpened until the blades were gone. The only fixed blades were Old Hickory butcher knives always sharpened well.
Gerber knives are definitely a "mixed" bag as some are very good while others (usually the China made imports) can be iffy at best.
Their LMF II is quite stout but a bit heavier than I prefer for woods carry.
The sheath is equally as solid and the retention is very secure.
Some folks don't like serrations (me included) but overall, I would rate the knife's durability as a 8.5 or 9 (scale of 1-10).
For the asking price, it's a heck of a heavy-duty knife.
I recall mine was a Buck 3-bladed stockman type....it went everywhere I went, including school (in those days)!
Then one year my uncle (living in Eurpoe at the time) sent me my first Victorinox Swiss Armk Knife; a "Huntsman" model. The saw blade was the envy of all my friends.
Talk about sharpening a blade until there was nothing left!!! :D
One I forgot....an early production Schrade Extreme Survival fixed blade design. The saw teeth on the spine were pretty useless and the blade appeared to be little more than a polished/chromed bayonet (i.e. M7).
the butt end incorporated a horrid claw hammer and the "survival" sheath was flimsily made. Not one my better purchases.
Check out www.knifetests.com
Keep in mind, this guy takes things to extremes with regard to "abuse."
Thanks for all the info. guys. I just wanted to learn some things from people with hands-on experience with knives.
before i really knew anything about good knives, i went to big5 and bought a smith and wesson folder for like 50$. i thought it was the coolest knife. a week later the stupid thing started falling apart! the screws that held the pocket clip on all fell off, the locking mechanism started getting weak and there started to be a lot of blade play, and the blade didnt stay sharp very long. thats what got me into learning about good knife makers...i dont want to be carrying a crappy knife that can fall apart at any moment while im on the job.
Do as you choose.
Yes I'd definitely agree with you there. I'd really like to have an LMF II they do look amazing. The most interresting thing about the knife I think is how it's insulated from electricity. I heared a story about a guy who cut through the hot-wires of a building and was fine doing it! But I've also heared that the handle wears out though. I've never had any experience using the 12C27 steel it's made of, but it's supposed to be good.
I bought the 6" SRK knife in Kuwait on my way to Iraq in 2007. Didn't use it much but when it was strapped to my leg the TCN's (Third Country Nationals) seen it they said it was intimidating. So it served that purpose at least.
Iv'e just learned a bit about stick tangs on knives. Is the stick tang a single component or piece, or a bunch of collpsable pieces fit together?
ONE MORE question, I just need to know this. Is the Ka-bar knife a single piece of metal from tip to butt cap? No glues or anything, just one piece? I know that it is full tang but I have little experience with knives and I was a bit confused as to if the ka-bar was one single piece, even with the stick tang.
The previosuly mentioned site(www.knifetests.com) puts a Gerber LMF II to the test and it performed quite well.
Again, this fellow ("Noss") completely destroys the knives and while not really a scientific approach, he shows how much abuse certain types of knives can withstand before they eventually fail.
Oddly enough (or not), some very very inexpensive knives have outperformed some of the higher end versions (i.e. Chris Reeves).
Same here with S&W. Fortunately, I learned early on (before sinking too much $$$ into my hobby) that the majority of knives made by gun manufacturers should generally be avoided.
Of course, there are always exceptions, such as Glock's field knife. It's not the sharpest out of the box but for $30 it's not too bad, either. Definitely makes for a good trunk or "second" knife.
IIC, some H&K-marked folders were made by Benchmade. Tough to go wrong there, as well.
http://www.geocities.com/heartland/6350/kbar.htmQuote:
ONE MORE question, I just need to know this. Is the Ka-bar knife a single piece of metal from tip to butt cap? No glues or anything, just one piece? I know that it is full tang but I have little experience with knives and I was a bit confused as to if the ka-bar was one single piece, even with the stick tang.
The leather handle of the KA-BAR Fighting Knife is formed by stacking 22 slotted genuine cowhide leather discs over the rectangular tang and then compressing them under great pressure to turn the discs into a solid unit - so solid in fact, it resists absorbing moisture or contamination of any kind and is highly shock proof. With the leather discs in place and still under pressure they are locked together by topping them off with a 3/8" solid steel pommel pinned right through the tang from side to side. With this accomplished the knife is assembled into one virtually indestructible piece and ready for the finishing operations of adding five grooves around the handle for a comfortable, slip resistant grip, polishing the leather and finally hand sharpening and honing the blade to a razor edge. The finished knife is then a truly battle-ready KA-BAR.
Break a Ka-Bar??? You must be a VERY manly man to break a Ka-Bar.Quote:
Is the tang on the Ka-bar leather handled small or big enough to were I can put on a makeshift handle if it breaks?
I have dug foxholes, broken banding staps on pallets of C -rations, ammo and other gear, broken the wire on cases of C-rations, open C-rations cans, built shelters, pounded tent pegs. skinned and cleaned animals & fish, Cut comm wire, built snares and fish traps and I haven't broken mine yet. It need sharpened several times but Broken Not yet.