Had mine since 1965 and I don't think I could replace it or my EK purchased at the same time and both well used for their intended purpose.
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Had mine since 1965 and I don't think I could replace it or my EK purchased at the same time and both well used for their intended purpose.
Is it just me or do they look painful to use? if you put pressure on the spine wont the hacksaw edge just cut into you? :confused:
It's not gonna help out for big cutting tasks, but does a pretty good job for smaller chores. I put duct tape scales on mine to prevent injuries like you are talking about.
I used some of the 550 cordage to wrap around the handle.
OK then, we'll hopefully agree to disagree.
I've humped the boonies (for both Uncle Same and for my own enjoyment) and guess what? Sometimes "you get what you get and you don't throw a fit."
In a "perfect world" you can pack a hatchet, an axe, a machete, a kukri, a golok...maybe even a chainsaw if you choose.
Unfortunately, every single trek into the boonies does not afford itself such a luxury and you may be forced to use whatever gear (i.e. a simple knife) you have at the time.
In those instances you must rely on tested gear to get you through whatever Mother Nature throws your way.
What I'm "advocating" is quality and tested gear, nothing more and nothing less. If, at the time your best tool is a simple knife, than anything less than the most durable knife you can afford shows a major lack of good judgement.
If simple "good judgement" played a part in every aspect of our lives, not many of us would dare leave the comfort of our cozy warm homes, would we?
both are good ideas. I just ordered 100m of 550 paracord off the net, so I guess the second method will be more convenient if I make one :p
got mine from my uncle, he used his in northern NY in the mountains during hunting season. nice blade, a little pitted from age but holds an edge like none other... the handle had loosend so i added another leather circle and it tightened up the grip... one of my main carry knives for my gear...
Everything you say on here is read by thousands of people. Some of them don't know any better, so they take what you say literally. The information you provide must be sound. If not, it could at the least discourage someone. At the worst it could get them hurt or killed. That's not what we're here for.
So what I'm asking is not to encourage using anything other then the correct tool for the job. Teach the right way the first time, every time. Let the less knowledgeable folks figure out the shortcuts on their own.
You know what I'm saying is right, so any further argument on your part is a sign of immaturity.
I was issued my K-BAR IN 1961. A lot of knives can do some things better then a K-BAR.
However A K-BAR does everything "Good Enough"
Remember that a K-Bar style knife is not a K-BAR
Anything that lists/uses the word, 'TYPE' or STYLE" is just a copy and usually does not meet the orginial specs.
ONTARIO and CAMILLUS also made issued knives that were clones of the K-Bar. They are just as good and meet orginial specs.
Great info! So's how about hiking over to the "intro" section & enlightening the rest of us as to who you are, experience, etc.? Sounds like it could be interesting!:D:cool:Quote:
AS you requested, it is done.Quote:
Great info! So's how about hiking over to the "intro" section & enlightening the rest of us as to who you are, experience, etc.? Sounds like it could be interesting!
Is the tang on the Ka-bar leather handled small or big enough to were I can put on a makeshift handle if it breaks?
Since I can break the handle out of a crowbar and I travel long range on an ATV I carry the right tool for the purpose intended. Now at home and make my own knives anyway I always have a few blades I have banged with a hammer, rock or club and broke a few. None of these blades are polished or even a good handle, but they last. "Pat Pat on Back" but I wouldn't brag about the temper.
Think I posted somewhere before. Buy cut nails different sizes and drive into a dowel or homemade handle and shape on grinder keeping cool with water. Those nails are tempered and will hold a good edge for knives or chisels even gouges for wood carving. I use them for carving.
WOW! Man that really comes as a suprise to me. I guess they don't recomend it, although tehy kind of controdict themselves by running the knives through doors, and chopping 2x4s in their video. Well even thought they don't reccomend batoning, I know that their knives could stand up to it. I agree in having the right tool for the job ,as you said, but when you don't have the right tool, and the job's still there you can use your knife:D
I batonned ironwood, pine, maple, oak (I think), and various other trees native to the great lakes area and never once was I worried about any park of my SRK breaking. I'm sure their email was just to prevent liability. If they said, "Yea, go ahead and whack away! We gaurantee that blade won't break and smack you in the eyeeeohhhhcrap!" *lawsuit*
No, the tang on the Ka-bar is what they call a stick tang, which means that the blade kind of bottle-necks into a smaller stick of metal once it enters the handle. The tang is only about 6/16th of an inch wide and 3/16ths of an inch thick. It's quite small, That's why if a Ka-bar Breaks (and it won't unless you intensly abuse it) it'll break at the Blade/ handle junction. But the probability of you having to replace the handle is very low IMO. I've done everything with my Ka-bar. Hammering tent spikes, breaking glass, pounding nails, batoning and lots of throwing. These are all things that would loosen the handles on lower quaility knives, but the Ka-bar holds up amazingly to all this. My handle isn't the least bit loose. And as for your question about the box with the blue-prints on it. I'm quite sure that if you buy it from Cabellas it will come with that box. Indact I'm really really amost positive. I know that mine came with the box, and I'm pretty sure I got it from Cabellas. The Ka-bar is an amazing knife for all applications, and I'm sure that you will be very pleased with one.
I use the tool rubber dip (for handles), 2 t0 3 dips where you want the handle, works great.