Looking forward to seeing how it turns out.
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Looking forward to seeing how it turns out.
neck knife has scale handle now. it is still awaiting pins, a final finish and polishing.
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/IMG_0030.jpg
Looks great!
I like it. It's sort of a modified Ulu. Yep, that's pretty cool.
Nice! Looks like a handy little bugger.
To bad its a left handed knife or I'd have you send it to me.
Well, okay then. Right handed it is.
is that like a left handed metric screwdriver?
working on a wooden sheath for the skinner:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/IMG_0043.jpg
and a handle for this blade. it's actually almost finished now; the picture is from earlier:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/IMG_0042.jpg
Saweeeeeeeeeet!
the pieces for the walls of the sheath where drawn out by tracing the blade onto the wood with a few MM of a lip around it. the spacers where made by tracing the side of the blade exactly, and sanding down to the inside of the curve, then danding it down to a more or less even width of a few mm.
the second wall of the sheath is gluing up now:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/IMG_0044.jpg
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/IMG_0046.jpg
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/IMG_0047.jpg
the edges will be sanded to a nice curve or chamfer , and the walls themselves probably to a slight taper as well, to give it a nicer form.
i'm going to round off the tops of the handle scales, and then add a tab with a matching concave curve at the top of the sheath for them to fit into.
i'm trying to decide if i want to do this with antler or another material. i might try to find some dark horn. they have to be something slightly elastic so they will hold the the blade in with a little pressure. i'll see what i can come up with for that.
i have not yet decided how to want to attach a lanyard for neck wear.
lest i forget: the handle and sheath are cherry.
Looks great Canid! A thought for the wooden sheath. Formby's rotten wood stabilizer. Obviously your wood isn't rotten but, a dip in the above will make it stone hard I love the stuff. A little pricy though, it would go a long way with moisture protection. I use it on old boat transoms.
i'll give it a try if i get the chance. i'll probably be using polyurethane, inside and out, since it's what i'm using on the handle.
Very nice. Looking forward to the completed sheath!!
I want to see that sheath also. Great idea BTW!
update on the sheath:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/IMG_0048.jpg
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/IMG_0050.jpg
i proceeded to fine sand and carefully finish it, only to drop it into a pile of sawdust and steel shavings while the finish was still tacky.
next i get to wait for that to cure and then redo it. i guess it's not the worst thing in the world, but dang it it feels like it when it happens. oh well, i needed to re-finish the handle anyway.
Very nice. I like it.
here's a projection to illustrate:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...projection.jpg
with the black in polished horn, like this if i can get ahold of some:
http://www.cmsfrench.com/images/PK7.JPG
[second image stolen from elsewhere on the net]
Cool little sheath candid. Are you going to use dog tag chains and drill a hole in the bottom. Also how will the knife be held in? I ask cause I really like the idea and may try it whenever I make a small neck knife myself. Thanks.
my plan is to have the slot at the sheath's mouth slightly thinner than the blade, with the horn [or which ever material i end up suing] left just thin enough that it can flex. this will keep pressure on the sides of the blade where it meets the handle. that surface will probably then be rubberized for increased friction. i think this will work, if also require upkeep. otherwise, it will have to have a snap closure of some sort.
as for attachment, i haven't made up my mind yet. it will be suspended from the tip end of the sheath.
i *know* i can pull that idea off, but i'm only pretty sure i can do it the first time.
i'm still tossing other ideas around.
soon i'll have some more steel.
I haven't taken any pictures, but i've started on a small forge for heat treating small blades.
I took a large coffee can and filled it 2/3 full of a mixture of clay rich soil and sand, and wet it. i mixed this with a hand trowl, by twirling around the sides, making sure to scrape the bottom and sides fully. once it was well mixed, I pressed a small coffee can into the center of it. the small can allows about 2 inches of clay mixture around the sides all the way around, and about the same between it's bottom and the bottom of the outer can.
this creates a small metal can inside a larger one, with two inches or so of clay insulation between. This will be left to dry for probably several weeks, and then I will put a hole through the bottom for forced air, and fire it.
The next time i try to make one of these, i think I'll use a large paint can and a large coffee can, to give a somewhat larger forge, but I will first place a steel pipe along the bottom with an elbow fitting centered in it, pointed upwards to join the bottom of the inner can, so to create an internal air line, with the inlet sticking out the side near the bottom.
I've settled on some scrap walnut for the upper portion of the sheath. I wanted to get back to work on it more than hold out for some horn.
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/IMG_0051.jpg
more work on the sheath:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...thwalnut01.jpg
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...thwalnut02.jpg
all the finish is going to be sanded off [i've gotten a good start] and the finish will be redone indoors, hoping i don't mess it up again.
i will be cutting the mouth of the sheath out of the walnut with a dremel cutoff wheel, so i have to wait til i can get some more of those.
yep; more knife stuff.
i decided to handle the chef's knife blade first, rather than the cleaver, because i wanted to use it soon. the finish on the blade isn't great, but i did finish it with a coating of epoxy, to help protect it:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/IMG_0052.jpg
Great work - as always.
Looks great Canid!
Very nice. I do like that. Always nice to make something return to a useful life.
more work done, i've cut out the slot for the sheath's mouth:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...hslotcut01.jpg
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...hslotcut02.jpg
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...hslotcut03.jpg
it's about time to sand the curves to a closer fit and sand all joints flush. after that comes refinishing.
Awesome job Canid!! Looking better and better!!
Good job Canid. Looks like that knife will serve you well.
It sure is purdy. Very impressive wood work - just as with your bows.
Man! How nice is that?! Great work.
i'm now working on a fixed blade from a junked folding knife blade:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/IMG_0094.jpg
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/IMG_0095.jpg
i ground the base down to a barbed push tang, and set it into the handle with epoxy. it's not the strongest hafting in the world, but this was the style of my sgain dubh blade, and since i've rehandles it it takes quite a lot of stress with no problems.
like the sgain dubh, the handle is mulie antler and Padauk. i love the wood. it smells reminiscent of cinnamon and vanillins when you cut into it.
Outstanding work. I love the look of the wood attached to the antler.
i wish i could find a better UV protectant light finish.
this wood darkens significantly with UV exposure, and it happens pretty quickly. it obscures the beautiful figure of the grain, which is fine and subtle.
nearly finished another:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...unter_left.jpg
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...nter_right.jpg
Antler handle with black walnut pommel and billet aluminum bolster/guard.
blade is an unknown knife steel and is extremely hard. barbed push tang set in epoxy.
i could clean the grinding up much better with some draw filing, but new files are still on my wishlist.
i plan to checker the handle, but i'm going to wait until i am better at it. i have plans to make a checkering tool with an offset guide, to follow in the groove of the previous line, either for scoring, or for the cutting the checker itself. that should be pretty straightforward.
Looks great! Very nice work.
Very nice, thank for the pic's!