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I would agree with you sjj. I'm no survival expert but there are "windows of work" that any tool is designed to operate within. Outside of those windows the tools will generally perform poorly or at least not as well.
As to the term "survival", it was probably an early marketing term but Mora seems to have dropped that nomenclature. Their current verbiage is "A first-rate, all-around knife", which is probably much more accurate.
In the field, I carry the RAT-7 for the heavy work and a Mora 780 for the light work. I'm still miffed that Mora dropped the 780 by the way!
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I fully understand that any task has its tool. For instance I carry a hatchet for chopping. The tasks I am using this Mora for are to test its limits. I am seeing that this knife is indeed a light duty knife to be carried and used along with a tougher knife and or hatchet.
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One trick I've learned for cutting fairly large live branches and saplings with a small knife is to bend the branch and then rock the blade thru the branch. I've cut some fairly large, 2-4" diameter, oaks this way using my small Kabar and Imperial pocketknives. By doing this you make a clean cut all the way thru the branch or sapling. It beats chopping or batoning in my opinion and is easier on the wrist and edge of the knife.
I was reading Mors Kochanski's book "Bushcraft" the other day and he recommends the same. He also recommends a full tang knife with, and I'm not making this up, a "durable pommel that will endure heavy pounding". Thanks Mors for backing me up. LOL!
He also goes on to recommend Mora, Sheffield and Solinger carbon steel blades and states that Mora stainless is as every bit as good as their carbon steels. Most likely referring to their ease of sharpening in the field and ability to keep an edge.
Is Mora stainless easier to sharpen than others?
Confusing! On one hand he recommends Mora and on the other he recommends full tang with a pommel.
Did Moras used to be full tang and have pommels?
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