Very rough sand paper for a palm sander

just got back... Like they said..... and Like JP said.. Even power sanding with a smaller grain like 100g until the parallel cut marks have disappeared then following with finer grit sand paper until the scratches are hard to see would be your best bet.

Keep in mind the courser the sand paper the more force required to hold the block of wood. Experiment with grit size and the force you apply to the tool.

For something like that, I would glue paper to a metal or concrete cutting disk and put it on a table saw. I would keep not cut the disk off the log until the end of the log is smooth enough to satisfy you. In this way, you will have a safer longer piece of wood to work with. You may not have the funds for that kind of set up.
You could also just find the right concrete and rub the disk on it. I think in about 60 seconds you should be close to where you can finish with your palm sander.

The other option, and its similar to yours edr, is to glue a full sheet of sand paper to a scrap board. Then clamp the board down. Sand the disc by moving the disc on the setup instead of the sandpaper on the disc. That will give you nice even pressure across the entire face. Though, I would still just hand sand it personally. I get a lot of satisfaction out of working a piece of wood without power tools or anything.

post a pic if you can too

Yes, JP with the paper glued to a board it should sand easily. Also, the problem that will occur with the end grain is that between the rings will be softer and, depending on the type of wood, you may have low or rougher areas. Finishing and sanding after the finish drys a few times should solve that problem.

That's why distinguished between pre and post finish sanding. For the most part, you can stop sanding at 220 on almost any species of wood prior to your staining and finishing work, as long as you were diligent in the process.

Then, depending on your finish selection, you would use varying degrees of sand paper to smooth the finish. My recent project had a satin clear finish (I butchered it, but it's a learning process). Most people consider (in my research) 600g to be fine for satin finishes between coats. If I were to use a high gloss finish though, the process is a lot more difficult, including up the sand paper to 800 or even 1000g. Some suggested specific steel wool grades as well for sanding between high gloss coats.

JP - You are correct. I generally use steel wool in between coats of finish. 0000 will scratch the surface enough for the next coat to adhere and form a good bond but not show up in the finish. I've found that true in all finishes I've used from poly to varnish. I've even used it between coats of stain on occasions.

Rick, do you thin the finish coats at all? I read that some people suggest thinning the first coat or two a little to help it flow better on the bare wood.

No, I don't. I generally sand to either 120 or 240 grit depending on what the project is. I then air blow the wood and then tack cloth it to remove any dust. For poly I apply full strength, usually with a cotton cloth balled up. I sand lightly with 0000 steel wool between coats and let dry at least 8 hours between coats. If it's really humid, raining, etc. then I let dry 12 hours. For varnish I've always applied full strength and applied with a brush.

You guys keep talking about using steel wool, what do you mean exactly? Any particular product that you have in mind?

We mean "Steel Wool" not SOS which contains soap.

Steel wool comes in several fiber sizes. very fine to course. Like sand paper has a fine to course grit choose and use your steel wool the same way progressively using a finer wool to to progressively smooth and polish your project.

http://www.lowes.com/Paint/Sanding-B...N-1z0yydv/pl#!

http://images.lowes.com/product/conv...3873211143.jpg

And you only have to worry about steel wool with the finish, and honestly, only with a gloss finish IMO. I've also been told to NOT use steel wool on water based finishes. The reason being is that there is a chance that very small steel fibers will be left behind in the finish. You won't be able to see them and it won't affect the finish in oil based products, but they may rust and discolor a water based finished. Again, being more evident in higher gloss finishes.

As I said, on my satin finish, 600 sand paper worked fine to take out the air bubbles and such that formed. The next coat would go on really nicely. However, I can see areas that would have benefited from a better sanding (more due to my mistakes than that the 600g wasn't enough), but the satin finish hides a lot.

JP - I've never seen that but I don't use high gloss. I generally stick with a semi gloss just because I like the look. I use strictly water based. Oil based is just a pain in the keester unless you have to use it outside or someplace wet.

If you are getting tiny air bubbles in your finish try loading less finish on your rag or brush. I typically use a cotton T-shirt (cut up of course) balled up so that it looks something like a hackey sack. I went through a period of having those blasted things and finally figured out if I loaded less finish on the rag they didn't appear. I was using a water based polyurethane at the time. I had some custom cabinets and stair rails built last fall. The guy was having problems with bubbles on the stair rails and he was using a sponge brush. I told him to load less poly on the brush and try it. He came in a few minutes later and asked me how I knew that. Been there done that. Even the pros have trouble sometimes.

Like I said, just something I heard about on the steel wool. I'm just getting into this stuff, so I have a large learning curve ahead. The bubbles were a result of too much on the brush, as you suggest, a crappy brush :) , and probably crappy poly (it was old, probably contaminated with small particles). Since this particular project was destined for storage under my bed, I wasn't super concerned. I still learned a fair amount for when I do my next project.

Basically I plan on trying the various approaches I read about on woodworking forums till I find what I like best and gives me the best results. I appreciate the tips though.

If you have a Rocklers Woodworking near you I've always been pleased with them. I've always had good luck with their line of General Finishes stains and poly. Their Arm-R-Seal Oil and Urethane Top Coat is good stuff and easy to work with. That's about the only oil based top coat I'll use. It has mineral spirits in it so rags can catch fire on their own just so you know.

Time for a little update.

I got a belt sander from my dad and P36 sandpaper. That stuff powers through the wood like a champ. Honestly, the ugly scratches are gone.

I have P120 sandpaper to make it smoother and then will use the palm sander.

So far so good!

I'm done! The P36 and then with P120, makes some fine looking coasters. I'll still use the palm sander to make it even smoother, but that's for tomorrow, I have other things to do now.

One other question that I have is what I should coat it with to preserve the coasters and the surface? I'd like to avoid using a toxic substance if possible. I've heard people using olive oil. What's your experience and what do you guys recommend?

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