Building a new "Survival Rifle"

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Originally Posted by Sourdough

Well, I could not figure exactly what I wanted to do with the .243, as they wanted $90.00 just to cut and crown. So I but that on the back burner, and doug out all the pieces and parts form other H&R projects. I found a 20 Ga. barrel that went to nothing.

So I cut it off at 18 1/8" and squared it up on the belt sander, and it would not take to forend screw, so I duck taped the forend on, and fired a few rounds. Then cut the Butt-stock off so as to have a over-all length of 27". So intriem I have a "Mad-Max" road-warrior shotgun.

I am going to order the survivor butt-stock and then cut the .243 barrel to about 16" I do that in the spring.

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SD Cut the barrel off with a hacksaw, fine tooth blade. Make sure it is square and recrown it with a brass round headed screw in an electric hand drill.

Coat the brass screw head with some 800 grit grinding compound and stick the head of the brass screw in the muzzel and smooth away. I have done that several times without a problem.
The round part should almost fit in the muzzel but still be large enough to not to enter in the bore. All you need to do is remove any burrs left by the hacksaw.

Larry Potterfield from MidwayUSA also demo'ed that on the outdoor channel a couple of months ago,

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Originally Posted by aflineman

Sourdough,
Midway has the Choate Survivor stock and Storearm forearm. Scope will not fit in the butt-stock, but the forearme in nice fro some storage, and the screw makes it easy to take-down. If you do not go that route, I found that the knurled screw that fits in the side of my old CB radio (to mount it) is the same thread and length for my forearm. Works well on my .243 to take it down or change barrels. (I don't have the Survivor set-up on my .243, just my 12ga and 20ga/.357mag).
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=869991

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=763418

I have a some on a couple of my NEFs. Work well with a small slip-on butt-pad and a Velcro shell holder.
I also like the weight of the .243, but make sure your barrel shoots well. Some of the light .243 barrels don't hold a group. Mine does now, but it took me 3 of them and finding a load she likes.

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I am going to order both parts today, Thanks again.

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Originally Posted by Sourdough

I am going to order both parts today, Thanks again.

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No problem. I just picked-up another one and am deciding if I want it on my .243 or on another of my 12 gauges. For me, they just make a nice walk-around. Although between my Handis and my Savage 24s, I am getting to many walk-around's to choose from. Maybe it is a good thing I am living in two places that are separated by a few hours drive. Gives me an excuse to the wife; "Well gee dear, I have to stock both places now". :)

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Originally Posted by aflineman

.......... Gives me an excuse to the wife; "Well gee dear, I have to stock both places now". :)

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LOL, now you got it....I prefer to call it "deploying my assets".

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Quote:
Originally Posted by aflineman
Sourdough,
Midway has the Choate Survivor stock and Storearm forearm. Scope will not fit in the butt-stock, but the forearme in nice fro some storage, and the screw makes it easy to take-down. If you do not go that route, I found that the knurled screw that fits in the side of my old CB radio (to mount it) is the same thread and length for my forearm. Works well on my .243 to take it down or change barrels. (I don't have the Survivor set-up on my .243, just my 12ga and 20ga/.357mag).
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=869991

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct...tNumber=763418

I have a some on a couple of my NEFs. Work well with a small slip-on butt-pad and a Velcro shell holder.
I also like the weight of the .243, but make sure your barrel shoots well. Some of the light .243 barrels don't hold a group. Mine does now, but it took me 3 of them and finding a load she likes.

I am going to order both parts today, Thanks again.

Well, the parts just arrived, So it is time to build something.

Nothing like Christmas coming early.

Now that you have link posting down you have to work on picture posting. Really.

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Originally Posted by Rick

Now that you have link posting down you have to work on picture posting. Really.

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Just assume that I am very handsome.............:scared::scared::scared:

Er, a....I meant the firearm but we'll be happy to make that assumption.

Sounds like a great concept. But it will never work. Everyone knows that a real survival rifle is an AR with a 22 lr conversion, just ask that y2k guy :whistling:. After his enlightenment, I'm gonna sell all my bolt actions and everything not semi auto to the "enemy" :chair:. Why didn't I think of that myself? Hahahaha! Good luck on the project.

I am not sure if I want to continue this thread, or start a new thread. Maybe both.

So I have been switching a lot of parts between different H&R firearms. And here is the sad truth for me. Sad because I have made every effort to NOT come to this conclusion.

Conclusion: I can't beat a survivor stock & For-end with a .12 Gauge Barrel for a survival "ONLY" firearm.

Nothing is as light & Versatile
Nothing else shoots .12 ga. flares (Very-Very important to me)
Nothing else in a H&R single shot will stop a Brown Bear attack better.
Nothing else shoots 3 1/2" & 3" & 2 3/4" and those sweet 1 1/2" loads.

The ability to shoot flares and 1 1/2" (Slugs or #7 1/2 shot) shells really extends the versatility of this set-up for Alaska, Strictly for survival, NOT defense, NOT hunting.

I'll still have a very light weight .243 Winchester also, but it was folly to be cornered into a single application firearm for survival.

Also the Barrel & Forend are 18 1/4" long.

The "Survivor" Buttstock and Receiver are 17 7/8" long.

Assembled it is 32 3/4" long.

So disassembled it will fit inside a small day pack.

Color me Happy with the final product (For ME Only).

Would a double barrel give you more "leeway". I like the way you have described what the single barrel will do for you, just thinking a double would "double" it with slight increase in weigth etc. . I guess I am just a tinkerer, never quite satisfied with anything as it is :)

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Originally Posted by Pal334

Would a double barrel give you more "leeway". I like the way you have described what the single barrel will do for you, just thinking a double would "double" it with slight increase in weigth etc. . I guess I am just a tinkerer, never quite satisfied with anything as it is :)

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This is exactly where I ended up when I built Dolly and now I am looking at the same project but without hammers and in 20 g.

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Originally Posted by klickitat

This is exactly where I ended up when I built Dolly and now I am looking at the same project but without hammers and in 20 g.

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How did you come to choose 20 gauge over 12 gauge? And I agree with the hammerless. THe hammers "look cool" but they can snag

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Originally Posted by Pal334

Would a double barrel give you more "leeway". I like the way you have described what the single barrel will do for you, just thinking a double would "double" it with slight increase in weigth etc. . I guess I am just a tinkerer, never quite satisfied with anything as it is :)

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I wanted it to be "Cheap" and Light weight. I bought the 12 Gauge long ago for $109.00 and the survivor kit was $47.00 + Shipping Plus two .97 cent cans of spray paint for camo.

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Originally Posted by Sourdough

I wanted it to be "Cheap" and Light weight. I bought the 12 Gauge long ago for $109.00 and the survivor kit was $47.00 + Shipping Plus two .97 cent cans of spray paint for camo.

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Can't beat that, cheap,light and effective. The Frugal survivor :)

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Originally Posted by Pal334

How did you come to choose 20 gauge over 12 gauge? And I agree with the hammerless. THe hammers "look cool" but they can snag

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The older I get the less weight I like to pack. The 20 g. is just as effective as the 12 g. for me down here out of of big bear range. 12 g. and 20 g. have the same velocities. You loose a few pellets in the shot loads, but if you can shoot, I do not think you are at much of a disadvantage using a 20 g. vrs. a 12 g.
As for the slugs the 20 g. if I remember right is 64 caliber. At 1350 fps. that is enough to dump anything I need to tip over.

I would really like the CZ Ringneck in 20 g. and think it will be the next project.

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Originally Posted by klickitat

The older I get the less weight I like to pack. The 20 g. is just as effective as the 12 g. for me down here out of of big bear range. 12 g. and 20 g. have the same velocities. You loose a few pellets in the shot loads, but if you can shoot, I do not think you are at much of a disadvantage using a 20 g. vrs. a 12 g.
As for the slugs the 20 g. if I remember right is 64 caliber. At 1350 fps. that is enough to dump anything I need to tip over.

I would really like the CZ Ringneck in 20 g. and think it will be the next project.

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I had not thought it through like that, but again it makes sense. Another question, and for SD also. Since you guys are in the cold area . For a handgun which is your preference, revolver or pistol? I hope I am not hijacking you here SD.

Funny you bring up the 20 vs 12 question.

Back when I was "accessorizing" the orginal .243 Handi Rifle, I added all the shot gun barrels (WTH, they were $35 bucks each)...
.410/45lc, 28ga, 20ga, 20ga bull, 16ga, 12ga w/two screw in chokes.

But I did chose to go with the rifled Bull 20ga rather than the 12ga Bull (looks like water pipe, LOL)

Neither is a "stop sign gun" ( don't want to spend a lot of shooting at stuff you ain't gonna eat.

Shoots good with both sabots and reg slugs, does lead-up some, with the lead.

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Originally Posted by Pal334

Another question, and for SD also. Since you guys are in the cold area . For a handgun which is your preference, revolver or pistol? I hope I am not hijacking you here SD.

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It does not matter. If you use the correct lube. On our wolf hunting rifles we, wash everything in gasoline, and coat with Mobil 1 engine oil or diesel oil, and set it in a warm area and let it drain.