i heard that swamp rat and scrapyard knives are kinda like the left over blanks and scraps from the busse factory.
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i heard that swamp rat and scrapyard knives are kinda like the left over blanks and scraps from the busse factory.
oh really? So they're kind of like Busse 2nds? Well that's kind of cool, I'd buy one of them over a Busse, just because of the price difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by tonester
No "seconds" of any sort to be sure, they are excellent blades and the prices they command (outside and most times ABOVE MSRP) speaks for itself.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blood Groove
There is almost a cult following with these "Bussekin" knives and that is not a slur, just the way it is (check out what the discontinued models are selling for on Ebay).
Example: How many knife companies can actually sell a knife without even offering a sheath and have no complaints from its customers?
I think the two companies morphed from Busse and early on they made knives/handles that were left over from (possibly discontinued) Busse offerings.
Swamprat/Scrapyard blades are 100% new and many designs/blade steels are separate from what Busse currently produces. No less tough, just different models.
Less expensive than Busse? Definitely. Lesser quality? Hardly.
To get the full history, I would check out both Swamprat/Scrapyard website/forums for details.
Busse really doesn't sell sheath with their knives? Wow. Well I have to start looking into swamp rat knives. I should get one. Heck if they're the same quality as a Busse and a cheaper price, I'd be crazy not to get one.Quote:
Originally Posted by Leighman
BG, talk to Gray Wolf, he knows a lot about Swamp Rat knives.
Busse does have links to sheath makers on their site. I went with Okaden.
Some Busse/Scrapyard/Swamprat models actually do come with a sheath but a lot of folks seem to go the custom route (leather and kydex).Quote:
Originally Posted by Blood Groove
Custom leather rigs can me made pretty stout these days but I prefer kydex for its durability and the minimal care that is required.
My Dumpster Mutt has a 5-ich blade that is right around .285 in thickness. Once the edge has been properly convexed, there are few outdoor tasks (big & small) that this knife cannot accomplish.
i have been in the market for a survival knife, such as a kbar, but dont want to spend alot. any thoughts on the matter?
www.ragweedforge.com
Look up the Frost's and KJ Eriksons Mora knives. I am partial to the 780 Triflex Craftsman and for around $10 you can't go wrong with anything on those pages. If you are really looking for a solid "user" knife for the bush pick one up and you will be happy.
http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/6445/780jk7.jpg
I got turned on to Mora's a number of years ago and have almost 20 of them now. I always take one along to the bush no matter what else I carry and they get more actual use than any other blade I take out there aside from my machetes. They are the most bang for the buck in the knife world. Mac
Stay away from bad brand names, carolina, winchester,... and dont go for anything like a military knife, they are one of the worst kinds of knives in a survival situation. (the knife in first blood)
But here are some things to consider
Weight
length
tang
# of uses
I would recommend something like a Gerber, buck, they have good steel and are very practical. Do you want fixed blade or a spring?
Also do you want to hunt with it? If so you may want one that you can throw or that is large.
i agree with pict, mora knives are very good for the price. if you want to spend some more money i would go with a ka-bar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pict
I have that very knife. Have had it for a few years now, holds a good edge and its the one i use for everything. Its a good all around knife. The sheave is now wrapped in snare wire, fishing line, masons line and sisal twine along with a mini fire steel and fish hooks and finally a lanyard with a small compass. No ones going to ow and ohh over it but its what works for me.
Just go buy a knife that you like and use it. If it don't work for you then put it away and buy another one and try it. Keep it up until you find the knife that is best for you.
While you are at it, take a look at this thread. This subject has been covered in depth.
http://www.wilderness-survival.net/f...ead.php?t=1297
Was going to give this one a day or two then move it.
Personally I don't like Mora knives. Every one I've owned has broken just back of the hilt where to tang ends. This has always happened in very cold weather but it still happened. Therefore I will never own another one.
These words from a man who lives where it's a hundred below in the good weather...hmmmm....:D...gotta agree with your first post, though. I think for everyone here, any knife you have on you is a survival knife. When I was a kid, we managed pretty good out in the bush with some cheapa$$ed knives because that was all we could afford. Learn how to sharpen a knife if you don't know how, a small sharpening stone isn't going to make some huge weight difference to how much you're packing if you're out hiking somewhere and a dull knife is...a metal stick.
Did the metal break, or the epoxy (or whatever is used) give in the extreme cold?
Trax, I still have my first survival knife (a Barlow 2 bladed folder). I think my mom may have paid a dollar for it if that. It has good high carbon steel in the blade. I made it work cause it was all I had. When I was about ten I started also carrying a 6 or 7" butcher knife with me. It was better for gutting and skinning deer with. My Grandfather had made it from a crosscut saw blade. I wish I still had that one.Quote:
Originally Posted by trax
I now have a few very high quality knives so I don't have to mess around with cheap knives any more.
No the metal did not break. The handle its self would crack or the glue would crack and the blade would come loose.Quote:
Originally Posted by crashdive123
I've seen Moras under x-ray and the tang portion is pretty thin and somewhat short. Also, I do not know how they are encased within the plastic handles as they are absent of any pins.Quote:
Originally Posted by crashdive123
The Mora 2000 appears to have to most substantial tang of them all.
I have 3-4 Moras and I like their lightweight and lack of expense but I consider them for cutting & slicing chores only.
For hacking/chopping/batoning I prefer a stiffer and thicker blade (RAT/Ontario/Scrapyard/Swamprat/Busse).
While a machete and/or camp axe is desireable, my own "carry always" kit (Blackhawk E&E bag) doesn't allow for the added weight or bulk of longer cutting/chopping tools.
Knives are as personal ( if not more so) than guns; you will get 1000 opinions.
That said, just about any Busse/Scrapyard/Swamprat is bulletproof. Not hype, just a simple fact. of couse, not everyone wants to fork over 100+ bucks for an outdoors blade.
For under $100, Onratio's RAT series are very tough and easy to sharpen in the field (1095 carbon).
While I am frugal as the next guy, I have learned to not scrimp on quality outdoor gear, ESPECIALLY knives. Right up there with your fire-making skills/tools is the ability to have a cutting tool that will not let you down!Quote:
Originally Posted by sniperfx
You may want to check out Becker knives (now marketed by Ka-Bar). They are quite sturdy and very well constructed.
Many folks love the Ka-Bar/Pilot's Survival Knife (made under contract by Ontario/Camillus/Ka-Bar/Case/etc).
While they both have a rich history with our Armed Forces there are much better all-pupose field knives available in today's marketplace.
Klak,
I can see how a Mora could fail like that. I haven't had any cold cracking problems in Brazil! I didn't say they were the end all in knives but they are a good place to start for 95% of bush knife needs. They are the Bic lighter of knives. A Bic is GTG for 95% of what you need to light on fire. Mac
1st, I just moved your thread to the right place; it wasn't even in the right forum, & it's also in the "Knife Sticky".
2nd, You just asked a loaded question; 50 people will give you 50 different answers. So what you do is fill in the following blanks. AGE._____, $$____,
& Favorite brands____________. The reason I asked you age is I don't remember if you've posted it or not, but a knife I might reccommend to a teen might be a bit different than for an adult. Also, some states have age restrictions for knife purchases.
3rd, Cody Lundin also endorses the Mora knife. Stay out of Alaska, the artic, or you freezer & you should be alright.:cool:
Sniperfx - in the introduction you did, you said:What kind of knife are you using now (if that is one of the essentials you take with you)?Quote:
my friends and i go out for days with just the essentials and live off the land
Good question, Crash; I just checked Mr. Fix's intro & he sounded like he was more experienced than I see here. Obviously never in the military or he would already have a preference. I'm guessing teens to early 20's or, if older, a very sheltered lifestyle...but then that's just me.:DQuote:
Originally Posted by crashdive123
I have used all of the knives that you described in your post. While they do all work, personally, I prefer a fixed blade knife over a folder. My favorite is the Swiss Mora S1 knife. I was introduced to this knife by Mors Kochanski.Quote:
Eagle wrote: Hello Everyone,
I too have a survival kit problem. I have a master list that would probably fit into a small day pack. Lately though I have been developing a kit in a coffee can. I can describe it later if anyone is interested but on to my problem. It is what type of knife/tool should I put in the kit. I own a leatherman Wave that I carry all the time (even to church) and I have both wenger and victornx SAK(Both carry tidentical gear. Large lock blade, wood saw, philips and flathead drivers, awl). What are some of your opinions out there? Folding vs fixed? Multi tool (leatherman) vs Knife (SAK)?
It is small enough to carry anywhere without freaking people out, yet it is an incredibly strong and versatile knife. And I've used mine in Alaska in -40 degree weather and I've had no problem with it. The Mora SI is the best of the Mora line-up. All the others, IMHO, are not worth the $$.
Here's what mine looks like:
http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/f...ra05_jpg-1.jpg
Been using it for about 8 years now. . .LOVE IT!!! :D
It appears that knife has a wood handle. I imagine it will handle the cold better then the plastic handled ones I have used and eventually broke.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nativedude
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nativedude
Is that the stainless or high carbon model?
My Mora is the laminated blade model.
Yes, I have used the Cold Steel "Bushman" for about a year, and it is the best survival knife you can buy for the money. It's only about $20.00 but will perform as well as any knife in the $1-200 range. It also comes with a sheath that has a pouch big enough to put a survival kit in. Also, the handle is hollow and a Swedish Firesteel fits perfectly in the handle without falling out or risk of damage. If you want proof of the Bushman's strength, watch the destruction test on www.knifetests.comQuote:
Originally Posted by wolf
Vikrod, how about slicing on over to the Introduction section and tell us a bit about yourself. Thanks.
To me, you should have a good fixed blade knife to keep in your kit for a number of reasons. It should be big and heavy enough to chop and split wood with and a number of other reasons.
My favorite knife is the Gerber LMF II A.S.E.K. Survival knife. These knives are awsome and they will take a lot of abuse from you. You can find them on the internet for $60.00 and they are worth every penny of it. Just my 2 cent's worth.
i have alot of knives tried, and tested alot outdoors even expensive ones, last year i got a frost hedgehog, heavy blade, good design, hasn't let me down yet, for uder 20 dollers, i love it, just pass'n on info for those that dont like to spend alot
http://www.eknifeworks.com/webapp/eC...og&SKU=FRC033B
Thanks Joeblkwolf - you probably know this already, but for anybody that doesn't....Frost Cutlery (maker of knife in the link) and Frosts (maker of the S1 Mora that is often talked about) are two very different companies.Quote:
Originally Posted by joeblkwolf
Here is a 1985 Air Force pilot survival I have had since 86 ( Camillus Cutlery ) I have tried to kill. I have abused that knife with abandon, but it wont die. :)
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...100_2959-1.jpg
Here is that knife with two others.
http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...o/100_2957.jpg
I prefer the $5.95 s.m.k.w. I wrapped its scaleless grip with 550 cord. The other knife at the top is a Randall 14.
If you only knew how many of those we went through in the 5 years I was instructing at SERE School! Either the tip would snap or the blade would snap at the hilt.Quote:
Originally Posted by Deer Sniper
D.S. what is the bottom knife?
The knife on the bottom is a 440s blade with guard but no scales which I purchased at the Smokey Mountain Knife Works store years ago for $5.95. They had this blade in there catalog for years. It was just sitting in my case doing nothing so about two weeks ago I drilled a lanyard hole in the rear of the tang and wrapped the handle with 550 cord in a Japanese style pattern. The knife is obviously a second and has a very, very slight ( almost unnoticeable ) bend to the right, but is completely functional and I can tell it will become one of my favorites. The next project will be a sheath for this knife. Large, solid survival knife for less than $10. You cant beat that with a stick!Quote:
Originally Posted by chiye tanka
Do you know if the Ontario Cutlery spec+ version with the molded handle is any better? I have thought about buying one for my collection.Quote:
Originally Posted by SARKY
Hello everyone, this is my first post. I carry a fixed blade knife and a folder when I am out. To me you can't beat a buck 110 folder and for a fixed blade the jokers wild. Some people baton with their knife and some use is as a knife. I do carry a folding saw with me. But that is my two cents.
Jawilliams0425 - why not make it a full nickle and head on over to the Introduction section and tell us a bit about yourself. Thanks.