My personal favorite is Solengen knives, made in germany, they are forged from the finest quality german steel.they range from the 100's also.
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My personal favorite is Solengen knives, made in germany, they are forged from the finest quality german steel.they range from the 100's also.
I've already looked at their site. Looks like some nice knives. Just a little spendy for me. But thanks. I've got a couple of different knives and they seem to serve me pretty well.
I'd like to try a Nessmuk style knife. I don't know what the weird designe is for. I'm sure people here have read that book Woodcraft and Camping by "Nessmuk"
Here are a couple I made for my grandson. That's the style I like, fits the hand, slices well, good skinner. It is not an axe or saw just a good style blade. If you want you can modify an Old Hickory skinner and for under $10 you can make one. I make my own because none are available except custom. The blade ain't "mean" looking, just works great.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blood Groove
Very nice Coot!
As I said when I first saw them, "they're a work of art"!
Coot what kind of steel did you use?
Very nice job...really nice shape. When I get the shop up and finished, will have to try to make a knife, be completely off track for me, never worked with metal before.
Very nice work Coot.
Coot, that looks just like the one in the book. That's so cool. I read this artical on the internet of custom made ones, and yours look just as good. I like the sheaths especially. So what is the "hump-back" used for. I mean what would Nessmuk have wanted a hump on the back of his knife
I appreciate that. Those are made from a 10" carbide tipped saw blade, full tang. Handles are hardwood. Maple on the larger one and cherry on the small. I used 1/2" flooring scraps. Pins are brass welding rod, thong hole on the larger is a 22mag case. I cut the blades out with a Dremel tool, heated to cherry red and cooled slowly,drilled the holes on the drill press, removed stock with a belt sander, then smoothed with a large mill file. Reheated to non magnetic, quenched in 10W30, cleaned and reheated about 3/4" of edge with a torch. Edge quenched in water, kept the blade pretty cool while heating the edge. Went by color and had a decent edge line. After epoxy and brass shaped the handles with sandpaper and used a tomato to coat the blade except for the edge. Next day I cleaned them up a bit, sewed sheaths and that's it. Not complicated at all. I use a forge sometimes but for this type of blade this is faster and quicker. If you don't heat up the saw blade you can draw file it to shape and it will have a decent holding edge. Those are strong, working knives and nothing really fancy except the tomato acid to kinda age and dull the top of the blade.:)Quote:
Originally Posted by Gray Wolf
Blood Groove, the hump works like a good skinner, keeping the guts from getting cut. If you read the dimensions on the knife the blade is thin, but not flexible. Sears carried a small double bit axe and a good pocket knife. The knife isn't too big yet not too small and can be used around camp, kitchen or in the field. It ain't a true fighter, skinner or "survival" type, but I personally use one most every day and even banged one thru a treated 2X4 with a hammer and didn't hurt the edge but put a few dents in the back. They are tools I make and use. I have a few scattered around I didn't bother to clean but they do their job.
Coot, I like how you used scraps, brass welding rod, and a shell case. There was no problems cutting the saw blade with a Dremel tool? Did you cut the blade and tang to almost the final shape with the Dremel? Also it's very deceiving how the saw blade looks so thick. Thanks for sharing your tips! ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Ole WV Coot
The full thickness of a saw blade is plenty for a knife and the Dremel cuts very well even if it takes a couple of discs for each blade. With a good, long file draw filing removes lots of metal quickly with very good control. I cut within an 1/8" of my line and if necessary it is easily smoothed. A 10" carbide tip saw blade steel is decent as is because only the tips have been changed. The brass pins are almost decorative because 2ton epoxy would hold very well, I sometimes drill a few more holes than necessary to give the epoxy more "bite". I think you could make a knife like I do without any problem. If I can give any help just let me know.:)Quote:
Originally Posted by Gray Wolf
Thanks Coot, which # Dremel disc (Cut-off Wheel) are you using?
Thas ts good work VW Coot. Can a lawn mower blade be used for knife makeing?
Yep.......Quote:
Originally Posted by Fletcher
I have taken a shine, to the Smith and Wesson baby SWAT knife. and its only $30.
Thanks.........no really I mean it!!Quote:
Originally Posted by crashdive123
Just think of it as a leaf spring that somebody put a bit of an edge on.
Ahh so that hump keeps the guts and stuff out fo the way so their not punctured when skinning. OK that makes sence. Well I'm really impressed with them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ole WV Coot
did some hiking over the weekend and took my Breeden knives with me. i made some fuzz sticks and split some logs that were 4 to 5 inches thick with ease.
Hi all, I've read the entire thread and if I missed it, so sorry.
Here is a site I've found in the past couple of weeks.
http://www.khukurihouseonline.com/
Quotes from the site;
"Kukri/khukuri house of Nepal owned and run by ex-Gurkha army officer.
Kukris/khukuris made in Eastern part of Nepal by ex-Gurkha armory specialist.
Gurkha knife/knives and original kukris/khukuris inspected, admired and recommended by Gurkha VCs. VCs’ visit the Kukri/Khukuri House. "
I don't own anything of theirs yet but am looking at their military line.
Some here have expressed an interest in this type knife, so there they are.
Whew! You must have been reading a while.:D;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Wild Wolf
What I've heard about Kukri House is that their products they are decent but you might as well buy from Himalayan Imports for around the same price because of the shipping.
http://www.himalayan-imports.com/
The price that you see is the price that you pay. Everything is hand made out of a leaf spring. And the have the best warranty on a knife that I've ever seen. Check out the "Chiruwa Ang Khola." Break or bend it and get 2 free!
If I can get the time to charge up my camera, I'll post a picture of my CAK khuk.
RX - they like nice and all, but I'll stick with the under $20 ones that I have.
I completely understand. My machete sees a whole lots more use than it does. But it is something that would rely on to not break when even being abused.
Side view of my CAK khukuri.
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u...k/DSCF0480.jpg
Notice the thickness and the full tang.
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u...k/DSCF0481.jpg
Daniel
wehehehelll, like the man said, "got knife?"
According to Madison Parker's site, the knife the SEAL's are being issued for jungle survival is the Cold Steel Kukri.
I guess if it's good enough for them, it must work well for survival.
This isn't to dispute any claims about gear issued to Navy Seals, but one of the boats I was on did Seal and Special Forces insertions - they got pretty much anything they wanted.
He77, I hope so!
kukri House is amazing!! I got the Genuine Gurkha kukri (It's the one they issue to the Gurkhas) And it's great quality. All hand forged, genuine water buffalo horn handle, 1095 high carbon spring steel. It's amazing the work they do, and how in expensive they are, even with the amazing materials and quality. The spine of the blade is increadibly thick like the one shown above. They've got the chopping power of a much larger machete, but are smalled and really easy to wield especially in close spaces. The come amazingly sharp. The only knife I have sharper than that kukri is my brand new recon tanto, or my sweedish mora.
But...the downside was that comming straight from nepal, it took a 5 weeks to get here. That was kind of annoying.
I couldn't resist, today I bought a Brand New "WAYNE JARRETT CUSTOM HAND MADE JK HUNTER KNIFE"
Specifications:
Full Length 9.25"
Blade Length 4 1/2" Flat Grind for smooth cutting stroke
Blade Material 1095 High Carbon Steel Differentially Heat Treated with Spectacular Hamon Line
Handle Material Professionally Stabilized tiger maple with amazing color
Custom Hand Made Leather sheath made by Jarrett.
Nice file work on spine!
A $250 knife for $90! :eek: :D :D
And now I get to really test a expensive knife out in the field!!! It says it's guaranteed for as long as he's alive. :D
(For those who do not know what a Hamon Line is from: During the Differential Heat Treatment, a special clay mixture is put on the blade, it's put thicker on the top, and then gets thinner towards the cutting edge so parts of the blade cool differently.)
Nice looking knife. The scales are great.
That's a fine piece of steel you stole there.
I have seen and read and heard opinions expressed that the perfect survival blade is:
Non bowie type,
4 to 5 inches in length,
No hand guard.
Even Field and Stream has a test that follows this methodology.
To each his own. I offer this web site under the blades page as food for thought.
http://www.sererescuesog.addr.com/USRSOG-Blades.htm
This site is oriented toward SERE Skills but it is survival.
Examination of the Frontier and Mountain Men all had larger knives as well as smaller and tomahawks. I watched my father clean, skin and cut up my first deer kill. The second on was mine to complete.
No one blade can do it and one large and smaller may be a better solution.
Like I said food for thought and to each his own.
Good info. Thanks.
I really liked reading what they had to say about knives, that was very interesting.
Yep, good stuff. I love my CS knives, they've never let me down.