Hunter, one of his earlier pictures shows just that. Picture #3 in post 24 you can see the roof that is under the gable. In a lot of the other pictures you can see that it is all used for storage. Pretty amazing stuff and awesome pictures.
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Hunter, one of his earlier pictures shows just that. Picture #3 in post 24 you can see the roof that is under the gable. In a lot of the other pictures you can see that it is all used for storage. Pretty amazing stuff and awesome pictures.
the main roof is horizontal - so the heat is better preserved, because the warm air goes up.
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Wow these pictures of the cabins are amazing! How long did it take to build this one?
http://img542.imageshack.us/img542/2327/xe04fb68e.jpg
here's some photos of chinking a log wall.
here's the log wall prepped for chinking. The cracks are stuffed with fiberglass and then strips of plasterers mesh is nailed in place with roofing nails.
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/h...dytlee/140.jpg
here's the mortar ready to be mixed together dry. The formula is two parts sifted sand, one part portland cement and 1/2 part lime. I use four coffee cans sand, two coffee cans portland cement and one can lime. I mix it all together dry and then add water to make a sticky paste. This makes about the perfect batch, any more and it starts to set before I'm finished mudding.
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/h...dytlee/143.jpg
here is a photo of a board and trowel that I use. The board has a handle on the bottom. The trowel is a six inch trowel that I cut down to a 1 1/2 inch wide.To use I hold the board up against the wall and trowel the mud into the screen. Extra mud generally fall back onto the board
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/h...dytlee/144.jpg
Here's the wall with finished chinking. I'll let it dry and then smooth off any drips and whatnot with my fingers. A little more cleanup can be done with a damp cloth.
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/h...dytlee/145.jpg
IMPORTANT ADDITION
I had to correct the formula. In the first formula I wrote three parts sand, I meant to write two parts sand.
Nice job RT - easy to understand explanation coupled with detailed pictures - nice.
Thanks for the comments Crash.
Would Virginia pine make a good cabin log?
I built a cabin from southern yellow pine 25 plus years ago. A few years ago I checked it out and it was holding up good. It is built on piers and has a generous roof overhang. I've seen cabins built from just about every tree.
Good to know, I have been rolling around the idea of a small one room cabin (kinda the size of post 43) built at our pond.
Is it hard to get permits?
I don't know about permits. The one I built years ago was in a area that didn't require permits at the time. The cabin I built recently fell under a agriculture exemption.
here's a link to cabin building article along with a you tube video. The fella running the class is from the tv series The mountain men.
http://alaskatrappers.org/cabin_building_workshop.html
Good stuff, thanks.....
It would be cool to take one of his workshops. Good stuff.
Awesome thread thanks to everyone.
I've started falling and stripping balsam logs for a cabin of my own. So far have eight 32ft+ logs down and curing. Got my eyes on another 30+, but they're too heavy for my friends horse to skid, and too deep in nasty bush to get at easily with the tractor. Looks like i'll have my work cut out for me. lol
A question I have is, have any of you ever seen a log cabin/house with a stackwall/cordwood 2nd story? I have it in my mind to try constructing something along those lines, but have never seen it done.
Suggestions/warnings as to the feasibility of such a project?
Here's one member that has done it. She doesn't get on-line to much, so questions may go unanswered from her for a spell. http://www.wilderness-survival.net/f...=built%20cabin
just a opinion only. Building cordwood on top of a log wall seems like a bad idea. The reason being is that even dry logs settle so that would effect the cordwood stability. Many of the log cabins I've worked on had big all thread rods at the base of pillars and such. Once in awhile those were adjusted to compensate for settling.
I would think stack-wood is best on small shed type buildings....and I have to believe chinking would be a nightmare given the settling, shrinkage, etc.
This was posted on the tread that Crash put up....but still applies....
http://www.motherearthnews.com/Green...#axzz2Q5DQl5TV
Thanks for the thoughts all.
The settling was something I was worried about as well, but wasn't sure just how much of an impact it would/could have.
Do you think that if the 2nd floor was timber framed, with stackwall inserts it would be as much of a concern?
hello everyone I'm building a log cabin and have been cutting and peeling for the last two months on weekends only.i would like to hear and see all your pictures of your log cabins .ive been looking for a site like this for a long time. thanks plumb master
Here's the best place to start if you have questions!Quote:
Originally Posted by plumbmaster
http://www.wilderness-survival.net/f...-Introductions
thank you looks like a great site thanks for quick response
This is a great thread. Loved the pictures, and some of the information was good. I worked as a contractor under my father from the time I was 18 til the time I was 24. I understand how to build one of these, it sounds rather straight forward, but I have some questions about materials.
If I was to build a cabin, I would want to raise it off the ground. The reason why is that contact with the dirt would increase the rate in which the logs deteriorate. Does anyone have experience using scavenged stones from creek beds and rock outcrops to build the foundation for the cabin? I was thinking about scavenging up local stone and building the foundation with a standard mortar composed of two parts sand, one part portland and one part lime.
Secondly I would want a fireplace in my cabin for warmth, lighting and heating. Does anyone have experience building a fireplace out of scavenged stone? I would think building the fireplace using the same technique as the foundation would be common sense.
What do all think about using hatch to fill the crevasses in between logs and as a roofing material? I was thinking about using the classic straw and mud based thatching for construction. Do you think this would speed up the decomposition of the cabin? I've never worked with thatch before on a construction project, but it seems like an easy and cost efficient material to use. If thatching isn't a good idea, I would think that putting the logs close together and using regular caulk should be okay.
What type of sealant do you think I should use on the logs to reduce deterioration? I understand that a well built cabin should shed water from the log notches, yet I would like extra protection. Would you use regular deck sealant or would I use something more like a semi-transpiration exterior stain for siding?
Why not use locust wood as a base? It resists rot pretty well and it is native to the southeast.
I have wondered if caulking backer rope would be usable for chinking logs.
@ Adventure Wolf - I'll leave the log cabin specifics to those with more experience, but if you are building anything permanent in the south out of wood, then you will need to construct it so it is not in direct contact with the soil (on slab or off grade) otherwise termites will render it a semi-permanent structure.
They've been known to do a fairly adequate job of that further north as well. I have a couple of neighbors battling them at the moment. It gets very expensive very quick.
Black Locust is a rot resistant wood. I have head of black locust shingles lasting for over 150 years. I would have to do more research about it being used as a base before I felt comfortable with it. I will put my overpriced education to work and do some research on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by pete lynch
I helped build a 20 by 40 foot cabin from red cedar.The base was piers laid up fro flat stones. A fireplace was built in the center with the fireplace opening on one side and a wood cookstove on the other. The floor was dirt and eventually a concrete slab was poured and eventually plywood was placed over the slab. The gap under the logs between the piers was filled in with flat stones. The first year the roof was plywood painted with steel roof coating. Eventually the roof was insulated and steel was installed. Small poles were used for chinking with fiberglass stuffed in between the logs. This cabin has been holding up well for 34 years.
I use a sealer /stain from these guys on our cabin.
http://www.loghomestore.com/index.ph...FQGtaQodP3EAAA
Sits on sonnet tubes 48" deep and concrete blocks....Code here.
Have seen some on poured concrete in holes and rock on top.
I cheated, my came by truck.......Logs interlock with tongue and groove...haven't chinked it yet....since 2006
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y13...m/PICT0108.jpg
here's a cabin I built back in 1984. It's 16 by 12 feet, the logs were dragged up with a mule. The logs are southern yellow pine. It's set on flat rock piers. A floor system was nailed into the bottom log and joists were installed. Rough cut oak boards were used for door, floor, roof and gable ends. It's still holding up good.
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/h...e/cabin002.jpg
Practice building model cabin with sticks and then graduate to the full sized models.
what a great thread.love seeing these log cabins.
i love log cabins.
How long can a well built cabin go without maintenance?
And a follow up...Do you get any end rot on the butt and lap posts since they are exposed?
I think a important factor to the longevity of a log structure is a good roof, roof overhang and foundation. I have friends that dismantle and relocate old hewn log cabins. These were generally built in the mid 1800s. Over the years someone took care of the roof. Many trappers cabins were built directly on the ground, these go fast. End log rot is a issue that needs to be monitored. These days there are borates and sealers to deal with some issues.
Had a sealer applied....not sure what but was cheap...(lot of stuff that is used is on the low end of costs by the Amish).
Had it blasted and stained after two years...logs turning gray.....still need to wait till the "green ness" dried out a bit.
As my logs were milled, with in the locking groves.....chinking wasn't needed right away....possibility down the road?
No end problems, and the building is on blocks and sonnet tubes.
There are about 6 versions of our cabin on our road....as the builder was only 7 miles away.....and the prices were good at the time.
Most were the basic 16' X 30' w/porch.......delivered closed up windows doors etc.....and were $15K. in 2005
One cabin was just put on block....sunk in and ended up on the ground....started to rot and had to be lifted and bottm beams rebuilt.....after sonnet tubes....Big job that could have been avoided with proper site and house prep.
I'll bet that was a trip. You know it didn't sink level. You wake up in the middle of the night to find your wife on you. Well, hey, you say. Then you find out so's the dresser, the chair, the mirror, the.....
Never look a gift horse in the mouth. The furniture on the other hand........Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick
Ummmmm. did you just call Mrs. Crash.....never mind.