the uglybow, expedient bowyering with poor woods

i know i'm deviating from the primitive in this thread, but i figured i already had the thread started.

i learned something today i should have known beforehand: when you are masking a finish grade wood surface [like the birdseye maple backing i'm working on for one of my recurves] always use the blue tape. regular masking tape just caused me a world a headache and a need to spend an hour scrubbing with acetone when i tried to remove it.

Canid - Look for gaffer's tape. It's a bit hard to find in stores but it's used by stage hands, rigging people and photo folks. It's that industry's duct tape. It leaves no residue when removing.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gaffer_tape

Just google for gaffers tape or gaff tape. You should find lot's of web sites that sell it.

I have a board (rough cut, from a sawmill) of locust, it's already dried. It's about 1 inch thick 5 wide and plenty long enough. Would locust make a decent bow? Thanks, Steve

As long as it shoots and can secure game dude, it's not about the looks. Thats my motto when making my bows.

Blade,

Depends on how the grain is running on the board. Alot of board bows require a backing like hickory to keep it all together.

You don't want your grain running off the side of the board.

Now, hickory, diff. story. Many a hickory board bow has grain running off the side, and they shoot fine.

Ok, I was also wondering about the stiffness of the Locust. I can't flex the board I have and it's pretty long, like 8 ft. If it too stiff would making it thinner work ? I hope I am making some sense .

Blade,

Go to this link, start reading on how to make board bows, and backing board bows.

This is an awsome site, Jawg sometimes visits under another handle.

http://mysite.verizon.net/georgeandjoni/archer.html



It will explain your basic board bow and the tillering process.

Other good reads are Bowyers Bible, I, II, II, and IV. Reginald Laubin has an excellant book on Indian Archery, this is the book that I learned from many, many years ago.

Git to work.

Thanks bud, much appreciated! Very informative sight!

update on the laminate longbow:

i ended up taking it down considerably in weight, to finish out around a projected 35lb @ 28". this is becoming a first bow [and birthday gift] for a friend of mine who has just turned 8 is loves archery. his draw is short enough now that he should be able to draw it fine, but he's growing very fast, as children tend to and shouldn't out grow it too soon.

couple notes on the build:

lyptus is not a strong or a dense wood so it has some tendency to try to check over the core wood. if it where not for the glassing i would not dream of using it on a backing and it is there only for cosmetic purposes. the checks i fixed easily with super glue [instacure].

the online vendor i bought my glass from sent me the wrong order, and instead of heavier 2" tape, they sent me a bolt of lower weight full woven cloth just about at the limits for a youth bow. it tore at the one point where the glass layup didn't adhere properly so i've sanded and expect to reback it next week. i've just moved again and will have all my sh@# together when i find it all :P

blade: yeah; you always want your stave to be stiffer [in all places] than you want your bow to come out, and will remove bulk wood first, to bring it into a profile that should make it more reasonable, and then will need to carefully remove wood further as you tiller it, to get all parts to bend evenly. this is the tillering proccess.

locust can make an acceptable board bow if you can back it with something [or if your grain lay is ideal]. you can even use fiberglass tape and titebond wood glue [or a comperable adhesive, staying away from anything lower in quality]. i've even seen backing done with similar woodglue and the fiberglass type drywall tape on somebody's website.

Thanks bud, I am a finish carpenter and cabinet builder by trade. Si I got plenty of Gorilla glue and Sumo glue around. Plus lots of other woods. I haven't checked the grain out on that locust board yet. But if it won't work I have others. Rock maple I was saving for a guitar neck that never happend and a nice piece of hickory, IF I can figure out where I put it!

hickory makes great bow cores, and makes good backing laminations for other woods that have a tendency to raise splinters or crack under tensive stress. a good thickness is about 1/8 inch. you can get away with less and they can be tapered if you want and are able. you just lay the strip over the back face of your bow stave, making sure you have even coating and a good layup and clamp in place. it helps if you stick it on a form to help give even pressure during cure.

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