Binoculars? Scope? What vision-enhancer do you favor?

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Originally Posted by kyratshooter

My God does everyone have to carry a book to Alcatraz?

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LOL! Thanks man, that was hilarious.

The question is intended to be open-ended, to be interpreted by those answering it. But in my own mind, I am thinking at least a week, up to you-don't-even-know-how-long.

Let us assume for the exercise that (for whatever reason) you have to go on foot. I could run through a bunch of hypotheticals, but there's really no point. Assume on foot, only what you can carry, and you're not sure how long you could be out there, but that it will probably be at least a week.

Most all my long shooters are scoped w/at least 4X.
I also carry Mini 8X what ever, mini binocs.

If out west, I would add the big binocs and the spotting scope.

One thing to keep in mind, I don't know about you, but I don't like to be "scoped" with a rifle scope by someone else, and I don't imigine others would either.
So use the mini binocs instead.

Mini binocs only. For one, in woods you really don't need all that power... All my guns are on iron sights. I actually own a scope, but I don't like or need it.

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Originally Posted by NCO

Mini binocs only. For one, in woods you really don't need all that power...

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Not sure I understand what you mean here. The physical size of a binocular has literally nothing to do with its "power" (i.e. magnification).

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Originally Posted by lucznik

Not sure I understand what you mean here. The physical size of a binocular has literally nothing to do with its "power" (i.e. magnification).

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Yes, but with a bigger set you can facilitate more magnification power, no?
Basically I use minimal vision enhancement.

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Originally Posted by NCO

Yes, but with a bigger set you can facilitate more magnification power, no?

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No. The physical size of the binocular has no direct bearing on its magnification. Rather, magnification is primarily a function of the eyepiece design and you can make huge binoculars with low magnification or tiny binoculars with high magnification.

(To be fair and accurate I should point out that changing the size of the optic's objective lens will alter the focal length of the instrument which in turn will alter the magnification unless the eyepiece is also changed, but this is a somewhat different matter and has nothing to do with what magnification it is possible to achieve in a given instrument.)

Small binoculars will tend to perform much better (brighter, clearer, better resolution, steadier, etc.) when the magnification is limited to something like 6x - 8x but, there are still lots of mini binoculars being sold in 10x, 12x, and sometimes even higher magnifications.

In fact, a couple years ago I read that the most popular binoculars sold in the USA are the cheapo (sub-$50) 10x25s. Reminds me of that old saying about a fool and his money.

I stand corrected. That's why I joined the forums. Rep sent.

Well, anyways, the binocs cost me about 20e and do x8 magnification if my memory serves

That was a great explanation Lucznik!

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Originally Posted by DOGMAN

optics aren't just for wide open spaces. If you spend some time really looking through a good set of bino's into thick trees, deadfall, bush, etc... you will be blown away at how much more game you'll see. A really, really good set of bino's can help you make the distinction between an animals ear, and a leaf at a couple of hundred yards...

Good optics are like a "super power" if used correctly you can see stuff you'd never have seen with the naked eye

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Spot on. Binoculars help to gather light and make an image sharper and more detailed than what the naked eye can determine.

Too great a magnification can decrease clarity because of shake. So if you intend to hand hold your binoculars you'll want to take that into consideration.

I use a 10X26 binocular which are compact and waterproof.

Also, on the scope. A scope is to improve your shot and not to identify or find a target. This violates very simple gun safety principals.

Never point a gun at anything you are not willing to destroy. Always be aware of your target and whats beyond it before pointing your weapon.

I use a monocular just because the size means it makes the trip where larger heavier items get left home. I have compact binoculars I found on the trail I like too. I had a nice spotting scope but I seldom used it. I can think things through and come to one conclusion but then I usually go with my experience that instinctively works better. I chose my main survival weapon that way. It is not the one I figured it would be, it's the one I grab when things happen without thinking and I have now decided it's my first choice. My scopes are low magnification. !x, 2x, and 4x. Making the target look 10 times bigger does not make it 10 times easier for me to hit. I use them mainly for definition not magnification.

You know........ I could use night vision capability on my BYB air rifle.........
Lazer does light up their eyes........

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Originally Posted by sgtdraino

What do you guys think of quick-detachable scope mounts, that would (I would think) enable your rifle scope to be removed and used independently, and then put back on and immediately ready for action?

I've just begun to look into these, I'd be interested to hear more about them.

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Bumping because I'd really like to hear some comments on detachable scope mounts: Something that would allow you to take the scope off your rifle and use it independantly, then put it back on, and it would still be zeroed.

Thoughts?

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Originally Posted by sgtdraino

Bumping because I'd really like to hear some comments on detachable scope mounts: Something that would allow you to take the scope off your rifle and use it independantly, then put it back on, and it would still be zeroed.

Thoughts?

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I've seen such things before and I think one of the issues is just how accurate you want your firearm to be. Anything that can come on and off is going to be inherently less accurate than a solid mount. Of course, it still may fit within your expectations of accuracy and so; may be worth doing.

The other issue to understand is that riflescopes are not designed nor intended to be used as spotting scopes. This manifests itself in at least two ways:

1. Their eyepieces are designed to afford much longer eye relief than spotting scopes and they get their stability from the fact that the gun is tucked into the person's shoulder and/or supported by some kind of rest. They don't have attachment points for tripods or monopods or whatever. Because of the longer eye relief riflescopes often cannot be used effectively unless held fairly distant from the eyes. This would make them very unstable to look through when off the rifle, negating much of the benefit derived from the detachment.

2. Riflescopes have much narrower fields of view than do comparable spotting scopes. This is due to their totally different (non-prismatic) design. They are really more like true telescopes. This is O.K because it makes them simpler to build and more rugged and because they are designed to look at an already-identified target, not to glass for targets.

Very interesting! Thanks!

Poll up!

Note that corrective lenses DO NOT count towards the TWO "most important" vision enhancing items you will choose.

I voted,, (do I get one of those little stickers now):blush:

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