And what's wrong with that? (says the lineman!):innocent:Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick
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And what's wrong with that? (says the lineman!):innocent:Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick
with Koa handle:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...koa-handle.jpg
propeller warpage from heat treatment:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...es/warpage.jpg
i still haven't got the handle shaped quite as i'd like it. beautiful wood though.
That's not warpage - that's character. Nice job.
To bad about the blade..are you going to try to straighten it? Looks like it will still work ok like it is.
I like it , All I'm seeing is character not defects.
i'm going to try gently to straighten it slightly :D
i can't forget what happened to the last blade i tried to straighten, and the defect had been minor to begin with.
as for working as it, it shredded several old cedar 1x8 boards [against the grain] and a likewise weathered 2x4. it'll certainly get the light chopping tasks i wanted it for done.
I guess I might just leave it then!:) Nice job!Quote:
Originally Posted by canid
don't get me wrong, new, dry 2x4 board would have destroyed the blade [it's pretty thin], but yes, i'm pretty happy as long as it get's it's intended job done.
started a couple of skinners with that kromedge blade.
these are just cut and ground from the blade. i made certain to cool them [in water] frequently while grinding. i had been a little concerned about harming the temper anyway, until i tried to drill out the pin holes using a cheap, but otherwise serviceable bimetal bit intended for use on metal. i ate half an inch of bit by the time i was 1/4 through the stock. i'd say the temper is just fine.
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...img_0249-1.jpg
4 3/4" overall, 2 13/16" total blade edge, and 5/64" thick.
the handle shape could use a little refinement, but it's almost as i want it.
i have to say, as long as the friction heat is dissipated often, and the stock doesn't get too hot, stainless blades from existing, known stock is pretty easy.
basic rules: keep the water in easy arm's reach, and if the metal is just becoming too hot to hold comfortably [near the site of cutting/grinding], it's time to cool. i still have to see how these finished blades hold up.
update on the stainless skinners:
i've got one set of the scales made, tapped and dry fitted. now i'm just working on shaping the grip.
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...rs/01-left.jpg
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/01-right.jpg
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/01-spine.jpg
you can see in the second picture that i did overheat the end of the bevel while grinding.
here is a preview of both of them:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...es-preview.jpg
i think the blades are a bit wider than i want them, so removing the softened steel i overheated won't be a problem.
the knives are quite small, as i said; under 5"oa.
I have one knife and I bought it for a dollar. However, I was awake for a minor surgery on my lower back to remove some scar tissue that had gone down almost to the muscle... Anyways, I smelled them cauterizing my veins. Lovely smell. (Rick is dryheaving, I bet)
btw: today was an example of the many times i learn lessons i already knew, shouldn't have needed to be reminded, and yet had to learn again the hard way, by way of a blood sacrafice:
when machining metal, particularly thin sections of metal which have been sharpened along one edge, remember to clamp it down well, firmly and securely.
while tapping out one of the pin holes, i stopped to resharpen and harden the drill bit. i forgot that after doing this, the bit tends to bite instantly, and the risk of projectile workpieces increases significantly. i chose to be lazy and not clamp the blade down, and as a result, i siced through my fingertip, including part of my finger nail.
i had to get the bleeding stopped before resuming any work [nothing worse than bleeding all over a wood surface you've taken pains to keep clean and just sanded smooth.
safety first folks.
I agree, "stuff happens", you can never be too careful.
Hope it isn't too bad?
Nice job BTW
it's not bad. it might get infected under the nail, since my hands where filthy at the time, and under the nail wounds don't breathe too well, but i've gotten worse while shoveling wet manure, so meh.
just a wake up call for my lazy use of power tools.
i'm temporarily out of fresh sanding belts, so these handle scales might go on hold for a couple days. i tend to work on my projects in spurts anyway.
Those are looking great! Glad the lesson wasn't too serious.
Now thats the way I like em! Looks great Canid!
On pieces that are long enough, instead of clamping I just brace them against the support column of my Drill Press, so that the piece can't spin should the drill bit bind. I haven't worked on anything that small yet, but maybe the same principle would work??? Maybe a bolt(s) through the support rest/table on your drill press? Mine does have long slots that that might work on. I hate clamping my blade to the support rest/Table,as it usually puts the blade at a cant or angle, then my holes that I drill are also at an angle. Just a thought........
i don't have a drill press. just a hand drill, a workbench and a scrap of wood to put beneath the workpiece.
generally, anything that positively arrests the workpiece and prevents it's being thrown or grabbed should be used. i was being lazy and working without any such precaution.
the second one is about as far along as the first one was yesterday.
the first one is coming along nicely. i'm impressed how much i'm able to get done with the compound curvature with only the disk sander:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/img_0260.jpg
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/img_0259.jpg
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/img_0258.jpg