I recently finished developing a complicated trap for small game,
http://www.wilderness-survival.net/f...&pictureid=224
the releasehttp://www.wilderness-survival.net/f...&pictureid=225
The animal is pulled up to the cross bars and held fast.
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I recently finished developing a complicated trap for small game,
http://www.wilderness-survival.net/f...&pictureid=224
the releasehttp://www.wilderness-survival.net/f...&pictureid=225
The animal is pulled up to the cross bars and held fast.
Ramond Mears wrote about this trap in his book "The Wilderness Survival Handbook"
http://www.wilderness-survival.net/f...&pictureid=215
and,
http://www.wilderness-survival.net/f...&pictureid=213
Ramond Mears Trap is difficult to set and doesnt hold very well. by improving the release and adding the cross bars the performance of the trap is greatly improved.
Me hang snare in trail.
Snare catch rabbit.
Me eat rabbit.
Anything else is just a waste of time.
Me shoot wabbit with .22 sub sonic be for he gets to your snare, I share wabbit with neighbor.
Yea yea yea,
The point I was trying to make is that the time it takes to make one of those abortion's he came up with would be better spent setting a dozen or so simple snares.
If you put a pile of crap like that in the middle of a run the animal will just go around it.
The beauty of the snare is it's simplicity and productivity.
I would rather spend an hour setting a whole bunch of snares and the rest of the day collecting fire wood or improving my shelter or whatever. Then several hours setting a few snares.
But hey, I've only been trapping since 1972 so I reckon I still have a lot to learn.
Klkak,
I agree that the whole point of feeding yourself with traps is volume, it really is a numbers game. It is illegal to set snares in both places that I live so I'm not the most adept at it. I have run a trapline as a kid for furbearers, the bottom line is the more you set the more you get but its a low percentage of traps that get hits on any given night.
Small rodents and birds are the bread and butter targets for traps and the simpler the trap the more you can set. They also require less material resources and less of the most critical resource, time. In talking to professional bird trappers in Brazil they would get about a 10% to 20% return on their traps using the arapuca trap. They would target birds for sale as pets so they were very selective as to what they were going after. Anything else that wound up in the traps would wind up in the pot. A high volume of simple traps is the way to go.
On my Alaska trip we took a few miles ride on the ATV's to an old abandoned trapper cabin. There were huge rolls of locking cable snares still hanging on the pegs all around the cabin along with dozens of leg-holds rusted together in bundles. The sheer number of snares told the story. Mac
By the time you get that thing set up.......................
Supper dishes would be in the sink!!!!!!!!!! Dogs chewing on bones.
Quote:
Originally Posted by klkak
I trapped a world record class red back vole yesterday. I did not have to open him up to see what he had been eating. Got him in the goose and turkey feed storage shed. The pelt was attractive, and nicely colored, but a weeee bit smallish.
Voles are nice, I havent caught one of those iin a long time. What did you catch it with?
Trapping is a game of cunning and wit, A few well placed traps (whatever kind you would use) in just the right spots will produce results
If you figure out the schedule of anything, man or beast, and you can kill it. Eating is a matter of figuring it out, not getting eaten is matter of throwing it off. Ask me how I know.
Mac
A Victor mouse trap. I am going to but 12 mouse traps and 12 rat traps. And drill a hole in the rat traps for attaching a cord. The Alaske natives use rat traps to catch Sic'Sic Pucks, which they use to make parkas.Quote:
Originally Posted by erunkiswldrnssurvival
You have no clue! How many animals did you catch last year.....or better yet how many have you caught in the last 5 years? My trap line is close to 150 miles long and takes over a week to set and at least 2 days to run. I know a thing or two about trapping. The more elaborate the trap the less likely it is to catch something. As Mac said; Trapping is a numbers game.Quote:
Originally Posted by erunkiswldrnssurvival
There are many people who come here to learn the best way to do something. They may look at what you have posted and think its what they need to do to catch survival food. When they can't make it work, get discouraged and give up its our fault. We who have the knowledge have failed them. In a crisis situation, the simplest way is almost always the best way.
Try this; Pretend you have a broken arm (stick one hand in your pocket). Now make and set that trap with one hand!
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I use rat traps to catch red tree squirrels around my house.:DQuote:
Originally Posted by hopeak
Do you set them in the runs.....? Do you attach a cord.....?
Yeah, I have to agree with klkak (what no one's surprised?) as soon as something's titled "complex" or "complicated" I start to yawn. If you really want to make your snares complicated, bend a green tree over and attach a trigger so that the animal pulling the snare tight releases the trigger and sets the tree to sproining. I mean if you really feel the need.
Well said!Quote:
Originally Posted by klkak
I put the traps is area's I know the squirrels frequent and I bait them with "Extra-crunchy Jiff peanut butter"Quote:
Originally Posted by hopeak
Sometimes I use a cord. Other times I attach it to a limb, fence rail or whatever with 2 drywall screws. (note: pre-drill the trap before using the screws)Quote:
Originally Posted by hopeak
Note: screw trap on before setting bar
Use a similar set up myself (peanut butter, screws and twine)