Keep Super Glue for drying out......

Found this today......
http://www.instructables.com/id/How-...e-from-Drying/

Frankly I think it's BS....If you want to keep it from drying out, why pack in rice?

Thoughts?

Silicone caulk has a tendency to solidify in the tube unless made air-tight at the tip of the nozzle.
Were I work we use plain old yellow wood glue to fill the hole where the tip is cut and it keeps the silicone inside from curing.
Just tap the big end of the caulking tube on a flat surface (like the floor) to make a little room for the glue.When the wood glues dries it acts as a air-tight plug.
Works like a charm.
Maybe that would work with super glue?

I guess I just question the idea of drying out a container to keep it from drying out.

Lately I have been buying the single use super glue tubes.....use and toss.

I use quite a bit of super glue and have experienced the same issues of "nozzle clog" as many others have. The last multi pack I bought (cheap brand from either Home Depot or Lowe's) works as well as any I have tried, but the nozzle does not clog - at least not of the first couple of tubes. On one tube I even had a 10 day vacation after it was opened and used. When I returned it worked as if it had bee just opened.

I'll look at the brand when I go out to my shop later.

I always purchase a type with a screw on cap. I've had better luck with those. On the silicone, I use a large solderless wire connector and screw it on the end of the tube. Works pretty good.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Rick

I always purchase a type with a screw on cap. I've had better luck with those. On the silicone, I use a large solderless wire connector and screw it on the end of the tube. Works pretty good.

---

You are correct..... big gray or blue wire nuts work well....

Growing up I've built quite a few RC airplanes using mostly super glue and am now doing a lot of woodworking on the lathe and super glue is my go to finish for most things. Now when I say super glue I mean CA (Cyanoacrylate), this stuff dries with moisture so keeping a lid on it any time you're not using it is a must. With woodworking I've been lazy and just make sure if I'm not using it that second to put the cap back on, normally the caps not off for more than about 10 seconds at a time. I also try and keep it away from humidity. To keep the glue better longer we always kept our glue in the refrigerator, for some reason this will keep it better longer. I'm lazy now though and just make sure before I put the cap back on to wipe any excess off of the tip. When it does get caked on the tip you can usually pop it off with an exacto or a knife blade pretty easily. Just make sure that you don't touch the tip back to anything you've sprayed accelerator on or it will dry up. I keep the accelerator on the other side of the lathe table from the glue so there's less chance for the vapors to seep into contact with the glue. I also keep some T pins on a magnet on my bench so if it does clog up you just give it a good poke and you're back up and running.

EDIT: Also forgot to mention I primarily work with medium and thin viscosities. If it needs to be any thicker than medium then it's a job for epoxy, I prefer the 30 minute for most things because it will set up harder but if you need a little bit more flexible bond go with a faster cure time. Also I've found that the higher quality CA's hold up longer and stand up to more abuse than the junk you buy at wally world. I like Bob Smith Industries and Starbond is also really good those two have worked the best for me. The Horizon Hobbies (e-flite) is junk, as is the Jet brand glue. Great Planes makes an ok glue.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by psecody

Growing up I've built quite a few RC airplanes using mostly super glue and am now doing a lot of woodworking on the lathe and super glue is my go to finish for most things. Now when I say super glue I mean CA (Cyanoacrylate), this stuff dries with moisture so keeping a lid on it any time you're not using it is a must. With woodworking I've been lazy and just make sure if I'm not using it that second to put the cap back on, normally the caps not off for more than about 10 seconds at a time. I also try and keep it away from humidity. To keep the glue better longer we always kept our glue in the refrigerator, for some reason this will keep it better longer. I'm lazy now though and just make sure before I put the cap back on to wipe any excess off of the tip. When it does get caked on the tip you can usually pop it off with an exacto or a knife blade pretty easily. Just make sure that you don't touch the tip back to anything you've sprayed accelerator on or it will dry up. I keep the accelerator on the other side of the lathe table from the glue so there's less chance for the vapors to seep into contact with the glue. I also keep some T pins on a magnet on my bench so if it does clog up you just give it a good poke and you're back up and running.

EDIT: Also forgot to mention I primarily work with medium and thin viscosities. If it needs to be any thicker than medium then it's a job for epoxy, I prefer the 30 minute for most things because it will set up harder but if you need a little bit more flexible bond go with a faster cure time. Also I've found that the higher quality CA's hold up longer and stand up to more abuse than the junk you buy at wally world. I like Bob Smith Industries and Starbond is also really good those two have worked the best for me. The Horizon Hobbies (e-flite) is junk, as is the Jet brand glue. Great Planes makes an ok glue.

---

Thanks for the input....
I guess that if moisture IS required to activate Super Glue,...then the keeping it a jar of rice makes sense.

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