I would be interested in hearing from anyone who has a recommendation for a particular small stove that is designed for using unleaded gas. Thanks.
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I would be interested in hearing from anyone who has a recommendation for a particular small stove that is designed for using unleaded gas. Thanks.
While all the Coleman stoves can use either fuel your concern about unleaded fouling the generators is valid. However, it does take a while to do that. There are a couple of things you can consider.
1. Purchase a Coleman 502. There are tons on eBay. They are plentiful, inexpensive and nearly bomb proof. You can purchase spare generators and replacement pump repair kits for next to nothing, which I would do and take them along. A small repair kit with necessary wrenches to fit the nuts on the 502 would be appropriate for your use. They are a tad heavy but do a great job. You can also find heaters to use with them on eBay. Here's a pic of one with the optional heater. They come in different colors.
http://home.kpn.nl/olielamp/images/coleman%20502-k2.jpg
2. Purchase a Coleman 533. Coleman labeled these as duel fuel stoves so the generators are a bit more forgiving. All of #1 still applies to this stove as well.
http://www.boatersland.com/images/img/col533b705.jpg
3. Purchase a Coleman Exponent Stove. This stove was originally developed for the military and then civilian use. It uses both Coleman fuel and unleaded gas but it also includes a kerosene generator. There are a lot of them on eBay just make certain the one you purchase contains the kerosene generator. It would just provide one more option. Again, all the items in #1 about spare parts and maintenance kit apply. Here's a pic of one with the kerosene generator.
http://www.unclesamsretailoutlet.com...tos/3784-2.jpg
I own all of the above and don't have any qualms about recommending any of them. The kerosene can be a bit more difficult to start when cold but I add a bit of kerosene to the top and light it to pre-heat the generator when I have trouble and then I'm off to the races. The dang heater on the 502 will run you out of a small space. It gets hot pretty quick and then gets really hot.
Hope that helps!!
Thanks Rick.
If you have the 533 then I'd just pick up some spare parts for it. The worse thing I've even experienced with the 533 is the control valve area can get hot enough to burn you if you aren't careful. And you'll want to be careful not to bend the generator since it is more exposed than the others. I assume you have the carry case for the 533? I'm not very pleased with the design Coleman used but I understand why they went with it. I've found the top doesn't always lock in place, which could lead to dropping the stove and the top can be a bit of a pain at times to remove. It also seems to be a fail point since it's made of plastic but so far none of mine have broken.
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Coleman-Multi...3P!~~60_35.JPG
I'm not aware of an unleaded specific stove on the market. The big thing on the 502 was the generator tip, which is replaceable, would foul closed. All you had to do is run a thin wire in it to open the orifice back up and it would run fine. In the pic below the 502 generator orifice is on the bottom end.
http://thumbs2.ebaystatic.com/d/l225...yI-BYKp1AQ.jpg
The way Coleman "fixed" the problem on the 533 is by inserting a cleaning wire inside the generator so that every time you turn the stove on and off you move the wire through the orifice and clean the orifice out. Much like the old Coleman lanterns. In the pic below you can see the stainless steel wire. The hook thingy fits into the control valve so every time you move the control valve you actually move the wire.
http://www.touring-gear.com/product_...24525_zoom.jpg
http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/e.../generator.jpg
I truly don't know the purpose of the wire wound around the stainless steel wire but it probably prevents the tube from being flattened during the bending process and increases the heat transfer during use to vaporize the fuel. But that's just a guess.
Rick, can you tell us about the stoves you DON'T own? Thanks! You can type it all in this space: [ ]
Thanks again Rick
Rick,
I think the coil inside the generator is a heat sink and would help vaporize the fuel better. They are found in the 2 burner models as well and the generators arent bent in those.
Ah, you're right. Thanks!!!
A little off subject but does anybody know if you could make a heater like the one in the picture be homemade out of a can. It looks fairly simple but there have been plenty of projects i thought were simple only to find they ummm were not at all
It's actually a pretty simple design. If you think of a metal coffee can turned upside down you have the start. I"m not sure what gauge metal this is but it's pretty robust. It's right at 1mm thick. It's slightly larger than a quart paint can and smaller than a gallon pain can. A coffee can is about the right size.
There are 12 vent holes at the top to allow the heat to escape. Here is a diagram of holes.
http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps27c0869f.jpg
Next is the bail. I've made these out of brazing rod but you can use any thin wire like coat hanger wire. The original is steel 2mm thick.
http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps3f0ee7c4.jpg
Flipping the heater over there are three supports inside the heater sits on. The supports are just thin pieces of steel set at a 90 degree angle and spot welded to the heater.
http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps33280be9.jpg
There are two locking arms. Hopefully you can tell from the picture that they are simply pulled back, you slip the heater over the stove, then the locking arms are released. They are simply pop riveted into the heater. and then free to move where you see the half round lip for your fingers. The supports sit on top of the stove bowl and the locking arms then fit below it. It's not a super tight fit or anything it just keeps the two units together so you can pick up the bail and move the attached heater and stove if you need to.
http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps985d7f98.jpg
Finally, there is a notch cut in the bottom rim to accommodate the generator. Depending on which stove you make this for you would have to adjust the location/size of the notch or possibly create two of them.
http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps29a503b8.jpg
I hope that helps. If you have any questions just ask or if you need better pictures or close up of something let me know. I've never constructed one from start to finish. I've always had the basic heater drum and simply reconstructed some parts that it might have needed.
I have a lot of Coleman stoves and generally use Coleman fuel. I have heard that if you put some fuel injector cleaner in regular unleaded car gas that it will burn cleaner and not foul up the generator on the stoves. The single burners are awesome! I have several 502's, a 533, and some of the smaller Peak stoves and love them all.
It takes quite a while to foul a generator bad enough that it won't work and you'll generally see signs long before it quits working. It will be sooting pots, burning erratic and/or a lot of yellow flame from improper combustion. Just run a small wire through the tip and clean out the crud or soak it in a little carburetor cleaner. Coleman fuel is getting crazy expensive. $20-21 a gallon is getting pretty common. Rural King and Ace Hardware still have it in the $12 range. That's still 3 times regular gas.
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