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Going to start reloading .45acp and 30-06 garand.
Took an NRA reloader course and got a lot of good info. Excellent instructor.
But their advice on manuals is to "get as many as you can afford."
The instructor mentioned Hornady, Speer, and the online Hodgden.
What do you guys use?
The sierra bullets manual is the best for load data. The Lyman manual has a bunch of great general knowledge articles in it on the subject.
Sierra bullet's has a free reloading answer line: 1-800-223-8799
I'll help you any way I can as I teach precision hand loading and EXTREME long range shooting professionally.
Accurate Powder reloading manual is on line as well.
After loading for 20 years I had my shop robbed and one thing they got was all my reloading manuals and notes. that was back in '88. I had settled on several "pet loads" by then and only needed the manuals when new calibers came across the bench. I bought a Lyman book and stopped there. With internet access buying the manuals is a moot point. I also settled on three basic powders and do not have to keep a wide assortment. All the powders are old standbys that I hope will be available for another couple of decades, until I stop doing this stuff.
All my load data is written on the wall above the workbench. You never know when a senior moment will strike.
If you are loading for the M1 you will settle on one basic load for the welfare of the rifle. I have been loading the same combination in 30-06 for the past 40 years. It duplicates the 2800+- factory load and shoots MOA if the rifle is up to snuff. Even if the rifle is not up to snuff I know it is the gun and not the load, and is usually still very close.
Same for the 45 acp. After years of messing around trying to find the perfect combination, then having the mfgs stop making the powders/slugs, and reworking the pistols to handle whatever trick bullets were in vogue, I settled on a basic Unique powder and cast roundball load around 1985 and have been shooting what worked ever since.
I have been shooting the same .38 spl load since 1972. Same powder, same cast slug. It gets around 850 fps and shoots to the fixed sights of service revolvers so why change what works.
I have a Lee turrent disk set up for each of my pistol loads with the auto disk powder measure preset for that caliber. For the rifle loads I preset the scales, weigh every charge and load on a single stage press.
Kyrat put up some good info for you...
Kyrat, I appreciate the insight and definitely plan to work up a load that works with the rifle. I knew before I bought it not to use new manufacture 30-06 Springfield ammo in it.
Tres, I appreciate the offer for the distance loading help. Let's see where I get by spring.
The M1 mechanics are in really good shape, throat is just over a 3, and on a bench rest it zeroed in and stayed there with hornady special Garand match ammo $$$. It shoots better than me. Though I may put on new wood (saving the old). Gonna buy a second one (a CMP Special) to glass bed for CMP Vintage competitions though, if rules allow.
I also hear the US is finally allowing import on 86,000 more of them from S. Korea (but no carbines, sadly).
I love these rifles.
The 45 is for centerfire competitions and I want to work up a lighter load than the factory stuff for better accuracy, and to reduce the recoil a bit. After a 2700 match, you feel it.
As for the manuals, I'm one of those that believes in having some printed references in the library. I'll see if the local gun shop guy will give me a bargain on any new ones turned in on estate deals.
Thanks, guys.
It's hard to start re-loading for some people simply because there is sometimes TOO much information out there.
When you get advice on buy all the manuals, people are trying to be helpful as there are more options for you.
And the idea that you are making something to kill with, has a OMG factor........
I started with a "bop-a-mole" Lee Loader, manually, with a hammer used to knock out the primer, and knock one back it....Just the idea of hitting a rifle round with a hammer still makes me cringe.
Not having the interweb, back then, (OMG?) and not having many friends that re=loaded, clubs around, I pretty much relied on my books for most all loads, (still do).
As a starting point, I would try to duplicate a factory load, simply figuring (right/wrong?), that it would shoot pretty close to where the rifle was zeroed as a good STARTING point.
Most manuals from different companies will give you powder types and kinds as that is what they are selling.
Problem is compounded because local gun shops that sell re-loading supplies, (getting less and less places) only carry a couple of brands, and they are not in your book......
So, you end up with a lot of manuals.
I like to look thru them and see if any of the powders listed for each caliber, so as to be able to load more than on caliber rather than stocking 15 different kinds.
You will find that there are a couple that cover a lot of calibers both rifle (generally slow burning), and pistol/shot gun( generally faster burning).
That being said, those might not be the best for your rifle, but is still a good starting point.
To be scientific about it, when working up a ideal load only one thing at a time should be changed, and a min of 5 rounds each loaded that way for consistent results.
You don't want to change bullet, powder, powder load all at the same time...or you will never know what changed.
This is where pet loads come in and again may be a good starting point as the rifle may be different barrel length, rilfe twist etc....so you don't know.
I do not list my favorite loads, nor do I try to duplicate stuff I find on the interweb till I check out my manuals, as see something in print with a pro writing it.
I prefer Lee equipment simply because I get more bang for my buck, I don't see how doubling the cost of a set of dies, presses, molds etc can be justified by supposedly better quality? It either work or it don't, lasts or doesn't.....still the difference should be that much.
Good luck, it's fun and rewarding nad no real hard when you think through what the process is........
Hunter gave you great info. For general home ammo production Lee is the most bang for the buck for sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by hunter63
Hunter, I think you're right that they suggest many manuals just because of the powder situation.
I'm lucky that I have a powder supplier not 10 miles from here. The local shop I usually buy firearms from. If he doesn't have it, and it's available, he can usually get it in less than 2 weeks. And he's a reloader. There are maybe 2 or 3 others like him in the whole state. My biggest problem is no one willing to mail order bullets to MA. That part can get expensive if you buy at gun shops. Gotta get my C&R!
We were using Hornady and Rockchucker presses in the class. But all the dies were Lee. The instructors didn't push any particular brand but did say what they liked and didn't like about all of the equipment we were using and showed slides of other systems. They had a Dillon progressive there to show the operation, but we didn't use it and for what I'm doing, I don't need it (though the Dillon catalogs are fun to look at).
I was really digging the LockNLoad system being used on all of them. Very handy not to have to reset your dies all the time.
Gonna go look around Bass Pro next week. Got a gift card for Christmas. But might do better at Midway or Natchez if the shipping isn't a deal-killer.
Does anyone here chrono their loads?
How ever you go, just start slow, learn and enjoy....Remember, that now you can shoot and fill it back up...over and over.Quote:
Originally Posted by LowKey
yeah Chrono is one of the biggest tools when it comes to getting a rifle to shoot accurately at long range. It's not about MV though (muzzle vel.) it;s about "SD" Standard deviation. That is how consistent the Mv is shot to shot. You can have a no wind day and no human error shooting long range. If your SD numbers are bad, one shot will go way high, the next way low. No good. A "good hand load" will have SD's less than 10 fps. That is in 10 shots, not one of them is over 10 fps faster or slower than the average of them all.
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