Wilderness Survival Forums - Blogs - Beo https://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/blog.php?11670-Beo A public discussion forum on wilderness surivival, primitive technology, and disaster preparedness. en Mon, 20 Jul 2026 20:00:50 GMT vBulletin 60 https://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/images/misc/rss.jpg Wilderness Survival Forums - Blogs - Beo https://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/blog.php?11670-Beo <![CDATA[Snares & Snaring]]> https://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/entry.php?142-Snares-amp-Snaring Tue, 02 Sep 2008 15:52:04 GMT Snaring and snares has come up on here so many times I cannot count, so here is what I know of snaring the way I do it when trekking for a week or... Snaring and snares has come up on here so many times I cannot count, so here is what I know of snaring the way I do it when trekking for a week or more in the forests, mountains, and river bottoms of Ohio, Kentucky, and Tennessee, remember this is my way and others here are more knowledgeable or professional guides who do this for living or live off the grid and do it as a way of life. I hope this helps you in some way.

The Modern Cable Snare
The modern cable snare is made of stranded steel cable. This cable comes in two basic configurations known as 7x7 and 7x19. The 7x7 cable consists of 7 strands of small diameter wire wound into a larger strand. Then, 7 of these larger strands are wound together to make the finished cable. The7x19 cable uses 19 very small wires wound into a strand with 7 of these strands making up the cable.
Steel Cable comes in several different sizes that designate the diameter of the cable. Cable measuring 3/32 of an inch in diameter is the most popular size for snaring.
Another integral part of the modern cable snare is a sliding lock. A Snare loop is pulled closed, the lock slides down the cable. However, the lock will not slide in the opposite direction. This is what keeps the animal from backing out of the snare or shaking the snare off.
Locks come in a variety of shapes, forms, and configurations. Some states require by law a relaxing lock which is defined as a lock that stops exerting pressure when an animal quits pulling on it. Locks that use springs or other powering devices to hold them closed are not legal for use in many states.
Modern cable snares also have some device on the end of the snare for fastening it in place. The simplest form of this is a loop fashioned in the end of the cable. However, most snares utilize a swivel as an end fastening device. Swivels are highly recommended because they allow the animal some freedom of movement while its detained in the snare. They also help keep the cable from getting badly kinked and twisted as the animal is detained in the snare wich could possibly lead to breakage of the cable.
Ferrules are used to hold the lock and fastener in place on the snare. These ferrules are hammered or crimped into place on the snare cable. There three basic types of ferrules: aluminum, coiled steel wire, and annealed steel nuts.
Another component that may be found on a snare is a stop crimped on the cable that prevents the snare loop from closing past a minimum diameter. These are commonly known as deer stops because they allow deer to shake a snare off its foot should the deer get its foot caught in the snare. Be sure to check your state regulations to make sure you get the legal snaring information needed.
Snare Cable
Modern snares are made of multi-strand steel cable. It is sometimes called aircraft cable. This cable is very strong and can hold an animal alive over an extended period of time. This eliminates the need to construct the snare as a lethal device. There are two basic types of cable. 7x7 cable has seven large strands of cable each made of seven small wires. 7x19 cable has seven large strands each made of nineteen small wires.
How the Lock Works
The lock is a very important part of the snare. The lock can only travel in one direction on the snare cable. The snare is set with an open loop so the animal can enter the snare. As the animal pushes against the snare, the loop is drawn closed and the lock slides down the cable. Since the lock cannot travel backwards on the cable, it holds the loop closed and keeps the animal from escaping.
Locks
A wide variety of snare locks are available.
Washer Lock
This is one of the more commonly used snare locks. It is called a washer lock. A deer stop may be required with this lock.
"L" Lock
This is an "L" lock. It functions in the same manner as a washer lock. A deer stop may be required with this lock.
"Thompson" Lock
This lock was one of the earliest locks developed for use with multi-strand steel cable. There are several other brand-name locks that follow this design. A deer stop may be required with this lock.
"Reichart" Lock
It is made from a bend washer. A deer stop may be required with this lock
"Cam" Lock
This is a "Cam" lock. The lever at the bottom of the lock binds against the cable in a camming action to hold the lock closed. A deer stop may be required with this snare.
"Gregerson" Lock
This is a "Gregerson" lock. It is made of thin sheet metal. This lock will tear away from the snare cable if a force of approximately 350 pounds is applied.
Ferrules
Ferrules are used to hold the lock on a snare. They are also used to hold the swivel on a snare or form an end fastener on the snare. The ferrules are hammered or crimped onto the snare cable. Special steel nuts are often used as ferrules. These nuts are heat treated to keep them from cracking when they are hammered on. Another type of ferrule is made of coiled steel wire. The coil is slipped over the cable and hammered in place.
Swivels
It is highly recommended that a snare be equipped with a swivel. The swivel provides a means for fastening the snare in place and also provides some comfort to the animal. A swivel also helps keep the snare cable from getting too badly kinked and twisted while the animal is detained in the snare. If a cable gets badly kinked and twisted, there is a possibility it could break allowing the animal to escape.
Cont.
]]> Beo https://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/entry.php?142-Snares-amp-Snaring Snares Continued 1 https://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/entry.php?141-Snares-Continued-1 Tue, 02 Sep 2008 15:51:10 GMT *Deer Stops*Deer stops are installed on snares to prevent the loop from closing past a minimum diameter. This will prevent the snare from closing... Deer Stops
Deer stops are installed on snares to prevent the loop from closing past a minimum diameter. This will prevent the snare from closing around a deer's foot if one of these animals should accidentally encounter the snare.
Unlike other trapping devices,snares can only be used once. After an animal has been caught in a snare,the cable will be bent and will no longer function properly. But all the mechanical parts may be able to be reused to make more snares.
How A Snare Works
There may be some questions as to how a snare works if there is no powering device to close the snare loop. The fact is, the animal itself provides the power to close the snare. In use, the snare loop is suspended above a trail or path the animal is expected to take. The animal, walking along, enters the snare loop and continues its forward progress pulling the snare down on itself. On the surface, this may sound odd, but if you take into consideration how an animal travels through its environment and the conditions it meets there, this becomes more understandable .As an animal travels along, it regularly encounters weeds, vines, and small pieces of brush in its path. An animal does not make a detour every time it encounters one of these objects. Instead, it simply pushes its way through the obstruction. If by some chance the animal cannot muscle its way through, it will then back up and make a detour. An animal perceives a snare in the same manner that it perceives a vine or weed. It does not recognize the snare as a danger. On encountering the snare, the animal behaves as if the snare was just another vine or weed and tries to push its way on through. When it finds it cannot break free of the “vine” the animal will try to back out. However at this point, the snare is cinched down on the animal, and the lock keeps the snare from opening up.
Fastening and Stabilizing Snares
Like any other trapping device, a snare must be fastened in place to hold the animal while it is detained in the snare. Some state regulations require that a snare be fastened to a solid, immovable object or that it be staked. One easy way to fasten a snare is to stake it in place as you would a foothold trap. Make sure the stake is long enough and strong enough to hold any animal that might get in the snare. Wood stakes can be used for snares, but many trappers prefer to use steel stakes because they are more durable. In using a snare on a stake, you should try to provide swiveling at the stake as you would for a foothold trap. With a wood stake, the snare swivel itself may provide the swiveling action you need. Some snare swivels are designed to accept a steel stake right through the swivel. You also have the option of fastening a regular stake swivel or s-hook to the end of the snare to provide for use with a steel stake. For larger animals, like coyotes, you may want to consider using a cross-stake system to hold the snare. The same devices used to cross stake foot-hold traps can be used to cross stake a snare. The other option for fastening a snare is to anchor it to an immovable object. Usually this comes in the form of a tree or a large log that the animal cannot move. If the anticipated path of the target animal comes close to a tree or a log, this would be a good place to construct a set. To fasten a snare to a tree or log, use a piece of heavy gauge wire to completely encircle the trunk. Pass the wire through the snare swivel and twist it closed. Sometimes a snare is not quite long enough to reach the object that you want to fasten it to. In this case, you should use an extension made of snare cable to lengthen the snare. You can purchase these or make them using a length of cable and forming a loop in each end. NEVER, use wire to extend a snare. A wire snare extension could easily kink and break as the animal struggles in the snare. Another aspect of getting a snare in place is stabilizing the snare so it hangs in the proper position. A snare must be supported so that the loop hangs vertically and will be in the proper position to intercept the animal. The best way to do this is with a piece of wire. One end of the wire is fastened to the snare cable and the other end of the wire is anchored solidly. Bending the wire allows you to position the snare. In attaching the wire to the snare, there are several options. You can bend a small hook in the wire and crimp this onto the snare cable. However, crimping the wire to the snare may interfere with the action of the swivel. Another way to attach the wire to the snare is to bend the end of the wire into the shape of an “N” and thread the snare cable into it. Some snares are equipped with coiled wire support collars that will accept a certain size wire. Here the wire is slid under the support collar where it pinches against the cable. For the anchored end of the stabilizer wire, you can wrap the wire around a stake or wrap it around a tree or log, especially if you have fastened your snare to this object. One option is to leave a long tail on the fastening wire and use this tail to support the snare. You can also anchor the end of the support wire by spearing it in to the ground. Wire in size 11 or 12 gauge, or larger, is best for fastening and stabilizing snares. You should not, however, use wire to extend the length of a snare. When an animal is detained in a snare, it has the use of all four feet and can pull hard against the fastening. If wire gets kinked and bent, it can readily break. If you need to extend the length of a snare, use a piece of snare cable with a loop formed in each end. The cable is designed to hold up under the struggles of the animal.
Using a stake is a good way to fasten a snare. Steel stakes often serve better for land trapping because they are more durable. The stake system must be strong enough to hold the largest animal that can get in the snare. In poor soil conditions it may be necessary to use a cross stake system. If the snare swivel does not fit well on the stake, you can use a regular stake swivel and fasten it to the snare. An s-hook would also work.
Use a length of heavy gauge wire wrapped around the object to fasten the snare. Pass the wire through the snare swivel.
Cont.
]]> Beo https://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/entry.php?141-Snares-Continued-1 Sanres Cont. again https://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/entry.php?140-Sanres-Cont-again Tue, 02 Sep 2008 15:50:11 GMT *Stabilizing Snares*To function properly, the snare loop must be held in a fixed position to intercept the animal. Heavy gauge wire works best for... Stabilizing Snares
To function properly, the snare loop must be held in a fixed position to intercept the animal. Heavy gauge wire works best for stabilizing snares. One end of the wire is affixed to the snare, and the other end of the wire is anchored to make it stable. One method for fastening the wire to the cable is to make a small bend in the end of the wire and crimp it onto the snare. However, this wire may interfere with the swivel because it is crimped on the cable.Some snares are equipped with wire collars. The stabilizer wire is inserted inside the support collar. However, these support collars are designed to take only a certain size wire. Usually they are made to use 9 gauge wire. One way (and a popular one) to anchor the support wire is to fasten it to a small stake. The wire could also be fastened to the stake you use to hold the snare. Another way to anchor the support wire is to tie it around the object to which you have fastened the snare.
Non-lethal Snaring
The old fashioned spring pole snare was intentionally designed and rigged to dispatch any animal that got in it. The modern cable snare does not have to be used in this manner because it is made of better and stronger materials. It can be used as a non-lethal capture device. If an animal detained in a snare is given some freedom of movement, it is very unlikely that the animal can or will pull hard enough on the snare to asphyxiate itself. Here, the animal behaves much in the same manner as a pet dog that is leashed with a choker chain. However, under certain conditions and in certain situations, a cable snare can become a lethal device. Whether or not a snare is lethal is not so much a function of the snare itself, but it is more a matter of where the snare is placed. If an animal captured in a snare gets it self in a position where its feet cannot touch the ground, the results would be much the same as if it were pulled up by a springpole. It could succumb to asphyxiation. This can happen if an animal gets tangled up in something at a set and cannot get its feet back on the ground. This situation is commonly known as entanglement. By avoiding entanglement situations, you can be relatively certain that your snares will function in a non-lethal manner. A classic entanglement situation can be found where a snare is set under a fence. An animal captured in this snare could possibly climb through or jump over the fence and become entangled. A similar situation exists where a snare is set in a patch of brush. An animal could get the snare tangled up in the brush, be suspended, and asphyxiate. Another, less obvious entanglement situation can occur if there is a very small sapling tree in the vicinity of the snare. An animal could get tangled around the sapling, and as the animal struggles the snare could ride up on the sapling bending it over. At this point, the sapling acts like a spring, constantly pulling upward on the snare. This creates a situation very similar to the old-fashioned spring pole and could dispatch the animal. A large tree, on the other hand, does not create an entanglement situation. An animal can not bend over a large tree, and in most instances the animal will not get tangled up on the tree because it can-not circle the tree with the snare any more than once or twice. If you were snaring strictly in a wilderness area where you would encounter only wild animals, entanglement would not be of such great concern. However, there is no wilderness in many states, and some have a fairly dense human population. This means the chance of encountering a domestic animal is always present. For this reason, you should avoid entanglement with your snares. When you get ready to place a snare, examine the area for entanglement. It is a good idea to extend the snare in its closed position and circle it around from its fastening point to make sure an animal cannot reach anything on which it can get tangled up. In avoiding entanglement, it is often helpful to use shorter snares. This obviously gives the animal less opportunity to get tangled up. If you encounter a good set near entanglement, such as a fence, fasten your snare as far as possible away from the entanglement and place the loop in the trail leading to or coming from the entanglement. Just make sure the animal can not reach the entanglement when it is captured in the snare.
Avoiding Entanglement
It is easy to avoid entanglement. Simply place your snares in clear areas where there is nothing substantial for the animal to tangle up in.
A large tree does not create an entanglement situation. The animal can hardly make more than one revolution around the tree and does not get tangled up. When fastening to trees, keep the wire low on the tree. This helps ensure that the animal can keep its feet on the ground
When placing a snare where entanglement is nearby, stake or fasten the snare away from the entanglement. Then reach out with the closed snare and circle it around the fastener to make sure the animal can not reach the entanglement.
Cont. ]]> Beo https://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/entry.php?140-Sanres-Cont-again Sanring Cont. ending https://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/entry.php?139-Sanring-Cont-ending Tue, 02 Sep 2008 15:49:14 GMT *Setting Snares* To set a snare, the looped end of the snare is suspended over a trail or path that the animal is expected to use. The animal enters... Setting Snares
To set a snare, the looped end of the snare is suspended over a trail or path that the animal is expected to use. The animal enters the snare, sticking its head through the loop, and through its for-ward progress draws the snare down on itself. It should be noted, that not all animals are snared by catching them around the neck. You will be more successful snaring some animals like raccoon and beaver if the snare cinches up on their body somewhere behind one or both of their front legs. These animals both have a short, rounded head and a great deal of manual dexterity with their front feet. Using their front paws, these animals can often slip a snare off over their head. Other animals, most notably canines, have along tapered head that is very wide just behind their ears. When a snare closes on their neck it is very unlikely they will be able to slip out of it or remove it. In this case, it is better to snare these animals by the neck. There are two major considerations in setting a snare to target a specific animal — the size of the loop and the distance from the bottom of the loop to the ground. In making these determinations you must consider the size of the animal, the height of the animal’s head above the ground (generally determined by the length of its legs) and whether it is best to catch the animal by the neck or by the body. For an animal you want to snare by the neck, the snare loop should be just large enough to admit the animal’s head. The snare should be positioned so that the bottom of the loop strikes the animal’s chest at the base of the neck after its head goes through the loop. To snare an animal by the body, you need a loop big enough to admit the front portion of the animal’s body. The loop must be low enough to the ground so that the animal can step through it, but high enough to strike the animal’s chest after the animal steps through the snare.
Avoiding Deer and Livestock
While your snares will be set to take furbearing animals, the possibility exists that larger animals, like deer or live stock could get tangled up in your snare. This usually happens when the animal is walking along and gets its foot through the snare loop. Some of the state regulations are designed to deal with this problem. In some states snares, or any other trapping devices, cannot be set in paths commonly used by humans or domestic animals. This means snares cannot be set in active livestock trails. In regards to deer, some snares must employ one of two features. One option is to install a stop on the cable that prevents the loop from closing past a diameter of 2-1/2 inches. This would allow a deer to shake the snare off its foot. The other option is to use a lock or lock system that will break away from the snare cable at 350 pounds or less. This would allow a deer to break the lock as it pulls against the snare. These state regulations are designed to minimize the potential for detaining a large animal in your snare. Still the best way to avoid deer and livestock is to avoid setting your snares where these animals are likely to be encountered. You should not set snares within the confines of a pasture where livestock is present. Deer are free roaming, wild animals, but you can take measures to avoid catching them in your snares. Do not set snares on trails that show frequent or heavy use by deer .There are other instances when you may want to set a snare on a trail that is not regularly used by deer, but still the possibility exists that a deer might take that trail. In this case, you can construct the set to make the deer avoid your snare. The best way to do this is to place a pole over your snare. The pole should be about the size of your wrist or larger. You can place the pole horizontally over your snare and support it on each end. This gives the appearance of the goal posts on a football field. With the pole just above the snare, the deer will jump or step over the pole, while the target animal will go under the pole and into the snare. Another option is to use a “leaning” pole to steer the deer away from your snare. This is best accomplished where the trail passes close to a tree and the snare is fastened to the tree. Here, you can lean a pole against the tree at an angle with the snare between the pole and the tree. A deer will walk around the outside of the pole and avoid the snare. Make sure there is room on the outside of the pole for the deer to detour around it. In each of these cases, the pole should be propped up so that it will not fall down easily. However, the pole should not be wired or permanently fastened in place because it could create an entanglement situation for the animal. The animal should be able to knock the pole over if it gets the snare around it.

Wow this took a while to write up so I help this helps all those who want to learn snaring and the use of snares, there are others on here that are as good or better at snaring and telling you how to use and set snares.
Beo, ]]> Beo https://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/entry.php?139-Sanring-Cont-ending Animal Tracks https://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/entry.php?136-Animal-Tracks Wed, 20 Aug 2008 15:09:41 GMT Animal Tracks, if your gonna trap you should know what the tracks of your prey look like, as outdoors people here we should all know what these look... Animal Tracks, if your gonna trap you should know what the tracks of your prey look like, as outdoors people here we should all know what these look like, Here are a few.
In the tracking chart below you will find many of wildlife species. As trappers and hunters we should be very knowledgeable on what furbearer's we are targeting. And which other critters may be a potential problem in the areas we trap and hunt.
How to use this chart: This chart has been broken into groups by track patterns meaning how the animal steps one foot after the other. These pictures are not actual size so use the measurements provided for each track. Each foot is labled with a "F" meaning that track is a front foot track of the animal shown. Or it's labeled with a "H" meaning that track is a hind foot track of the animal shown.
]]> Beo https://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/entry.php?136-Animal-Tracks Proper Pelt Care https://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/entry.php?135-Proper-Pelt-Care Wed, 20 Aug 2008 14:38:14 GMT Check it out babypops, you went to all the trouble of preparing your traps and then trapping your furbearing animal, and now what. Here are a few... Check it out babypops, you went to all the trouble of preparing your traps and then trapping your furbearing animal, and now what. Here are a few things I do and the way I do it.
Proper Pelt Care
REMOVAL FROM TRAPS
Care should be taken when removing animals from traps especially if they are frozen. Simply prying an animal out of a trap may remove portions of fur and damage pelts. If furbearers are completely frozen in traps, it would be wise to take the furbearer still in the trap to your camp or fur shed and remove it after it has thawed.
TRANSPORTING
Furbearers should be transported in clean burlap or nylon bags (feed sacks) to ensure that they remain clean and that blood or dirt from one animal is not transferred to another. Never place wet furbearers directly onto metal racks of ATV's or snowmobiles or the box of a pickup truck in freezing weather. They will become badly frozen on and difficult to remove without doing major damage to the fur.
CLEANING/STORAGE
In general, ideally furbearers should dry before pelting. Furbearers should be brushed lightly before pelting to remove burrs, mats and dirt, which may stain the fur, and cause cuts in the pelting process. If animals are badly soiled, they should be washed lightly with clean water and allowed to dry before pelting commences. If you cannot skin animals shortly after harvesting, or if you choose to rough skin pelts and flesh at a later date, they should be frozen to preserve quality. Place furbearers or pelts in plastic bags and remove as much air as possible. Tie tightly and place in a freezer. Pelts that are to be frozen should be rolled nose to tail, leather in. Thaw slowly to prevent hair slip before pelting or fleshing. After fleshing and drying, pelts should be shipped to market as soon as possible. If you must store pelts for long periods they should be placed in a freezer. For short periods of storage, keep in a dark, cool dry room. Pelts may be wrapped lightly in newsprint, stored in burlap or nylon bags or hung from hooks or rafters. Ship to market in clean bags or cardboard boxes, never in plastic bags.
PELT SIZES
While it is never wise to over-stretch fur, there are times when pelts will be on the borderline between two sizes when they are placed on the board. Pelts shrink slightly in length during drying, so it may be to the trapper's advantage to stretch these borderline pelts just a little more to bring them up to the next largest size. To accommodate this, having the pelt sizes marked on your boards for each species may be helpful.

Should pelts be open skinned or cased?
Beaver: Open skinned.
Mink: Cased and fur in - it is recommended that saddle be left on but remove all grease from under the saddle.
Otter: Cased and fur in.
Marten: Cased and fur out.
Fisher: Cased and fur out.
Bobcat: Cased and fur out.
Muskrat: Cased and fur in - do not over scrape, remove all surface grease but leave saddle on.
Raccoon: Cased and fur in.
Fox: Cased and fur out.
Coyote: Cased and fur out.
Squirrel & Weasel: Cased and fur in.
Skunk: Cased and fur in.
Opossum: Cased and fur in.
Badger: Cased and fur in.

Hope this helps you.
Beo,

 ]]> Beo https://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/entry.php?135-Proper-Pelt-Care Preparing Traps For Use https://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/entry.php?134-Preparing-Traps-For-Use Wed, 20 Aug 2008 14:15:30 GMT Preparing traps is also very important so here's what I do. Others don't use this method but I sell my furs in Friendship Indiana so I take these steps, it helps me hope it helps you.
Step #1 Cleaning
The first thing that needs to be done to all your traps is for them to be cleaned . Whether the traps are new or used they need to be cleaned properly before dyeing and waxing.
Cleaning is accomplished by boiling the traps in water with baking soda. Or for those real nasty traps, a Lye solution can be used. Lye is found in most drain openers such as Draino, Liquid Plumber and many others. Be very careful when using any lye product as it can be harmful to your skin and eyes and should not be breathed in. You can use almost any metal pot for the cleaning task. Ask your parents (if your a minor) if they have any old pots they don't use or look at garage or yard sales. You will need BIG pots, usually something that will hold 5 gallons or more of water. I have been able to find some very nice stainless pots at buisnesses that specialize in used restaurant equipment. Bring your cleaning solution to a boil and place traps slowly in the boiling water. Be careful not to get splashed as the water will burn you. Before cleaning, dyeing and waxing your traps place a smalI finishing nail between the trap jaws to keep the trap partially opened so that the cleaning, dyeing and waxing can get to the jaws of the traps also. I usually treat 6 traps at a time. To do this I wire the chains together with a little 14 gauge wire. Leave enough wire to hang outside the boiling pot for easy trap removal. This is handy for removing the traps when they are done and will come in handy later for dyeing & waxing. Leave the traps in the cleaning solution for 30 to 60 minutes. When done, lift the traps out of the boiling water, and hang outdoors to air dry. I usually hang them from a branch in a tree or from a nail in the trapshed.
The purpose of cleaning the traps is to remove any scents, blood and debris from used traps and the oil they coat the new traps with.
The traps should take on a light coat of rust almost immediately, this is good since the light rust will aid in the adhesion of the dye. Avoid having your traps come in contact with anything that may contaminate them from this point on such as odors.
You just cleaned the traps to remove all the odors so keep them scent free. Always wear rubber gloves when handling your traps after boiling.
Step #2 Dyeing
Now that your traps are clean and free of odors, grease and oil, you are ready to apply a coat of dye to them.
Dyeing accomplishes two very important functions. It prevents the rust from form will help makeing while the traps are set, and it
colors the traps either a deep dark black/ blue color or brown color. This will help make the traps blend in with the soil or bottom cover of the area you are trapping. After cleaning and scrubbing your pot from the cleaning process, add about 4 or 5 gallons of fresh water to the pot along with 1 pound of logwood crystals or powder. I prefer logwood crystals as my dyeing method over speed dips, but the choice is up to you. Bring the water to a boil again and add the crystals or powder, mix well till all the trap dye is disolved. Again be careful not to get splashed by the water as it will burn you.
Also be sure to wear you rubber gloves during this process or you will wear the dye on your hands for weeks. And dont forget to leave that extra pice of wire hanging over the outside of the pot for easy removal. And also leave the nail in betwen the jaws of the trap. I usually check the traps after 45 mins to an hour in the solution to see if they are the color I want. If they are not dark enough for you, place them back in the pot. After the color is achieved, again hang the traps outdoors free of odors to dry completely.
See Part 2 please.
Beo, ]]> Beo https://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/entry.php?134-Preparing-Traps-For-Use Trap Preparation Continued https://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/entry.php?133-Trap-Preparation-Continued Wed, 20 Aug 2008 13:58:25 GMT *Continued from part 1* *Step #3 Waxing* For this procedure you should use a different clean pot. Save your other pot for boiling and dyeing, but... Continued from part 1
Step #3 Waxing
For this procedure you should use a different clean pot. Save your other pot for boiling and dyeing, but obtain a seperate pot for the waxing process. I wax traps for two reasons. The first is that the wax will protect and seal the trap while it is being used. The wax seals in any odor that may take place while a trap is oxidizing while set. Secodly, the wax also speeds up the closing of the jaws of the trap resulting in, a faster trap and fewer misses. First you will need to obtain your trap wax. Melt enough wax so that when you dip your traps they will be completely covered, so the whole trap gets protected during the process. Be extremely careful of wax splashing like above as it is hot and can severely burn you. SO BE CAREFUL!!!!
If your wax starts to smoke, it is TOO HOT, remove from heat and lower the temperature before continuing. Wax is explosiveand may burst in to flames if it gets too hot. Waxing should be done only with parental supervision (if your a mnor) or another veteran trapper.You may also want to make sure the traps you intend to wax are totally dry as any water that is on the traps can also cause an explosion if it comes into contact with the hot wax. Again leave the nail between the jaws as you want to protect the inside of the jaws as well as the rest of the trap. After your wax is melted, start dipping the traps in the wax using the wire thatwe attatched to the chains at the beginning of the cleaning process, and again, wear rubber gloves. You only want a thin layer of the wax on your traps so usually a minute or two in the wax is all that is needed. Pull the traps out slowly so that the excess wax has a chance to drip off, then shake the traps to remove more
excess wax. Waxing is best done outdoors for this reason as well as others mentioned above.Now hang the traps outdoors away from odors. I usually hang the traps in my shed till the season starts or if need be you can let them dry on cardboard if you have no spot to hang them from while they dry.
Now let them hang till season opens or pack them in plastic storage bins, and seal with duct tape to keep them from getting contaminated. Remember when you go to remove the traps the next season to start trapping, WEAR YOUR RUBBER GLOVES you do not want to contaminate them after all the hard work you have put in to get them ready.
Hope this helps any who had questions.
Beo,






















]]> Beo https://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/entry.php?133-Trap-Preparation-Continued <![CDATA[Traps & Trapping]]> https://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/entry.php?132-Traps-amp-Trapping Wed, 20 Aug 2008 13:19:50 GMT Alot has beeen asked on trapping so here's what I go by. Before any trapper starts trapping, all trappers should be familar with what trap sizes should be used for the fur bearers we intend to catch. For example I wouldnt use a #4 long spring to catch muskrats as it is to large of a trap. Below are some trap size recomedations for some of the common furbearers. If a furbear is not listed I recommend using a trap recommended for a simular sized furbearer. But that's just how I do it when I trap.
Beaver
#3 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 6 1/4 inches
#3coilspring Padded Jaws Approximate Jaw spread 6 inches
#3 Double longspring Approximate Jaw spread 5 1/2 inches
#4 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 6 inches
#4 Double longspring Approximate Jaw spread 6 inches
#5 Double longspring Approximate Jaw spread 8 3/8 inches
#220 Double spring Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 7" x 7"
#280 Double spring Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 8" x 8"
#330 Double spring Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 10" x 10"
Mink
#1 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 inches
#1 coilspring padded jaws Approximate Jaw spread 4 1/4 inches
#1 longspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 inches
#11 Double longspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 inches
# 1 1/2 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 7/8 inches
#1 1/2 coilspring padded jaws Approximate Jaw spread 5 inches
#1 1/2 longspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 3/4 inches
#110 Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 4 1/2" x 4 1/2"
#120 Double spring Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 4 1/2" x 4 1/2"
#160 Double spring Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 6" x 6"
Muskrat
#1 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 inches
#1 coilspring padded jaws Approximate Jaw spread 4 1/4 inches
#1 longspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 inches
#11 longspring ( two springs) Approximate Jaw spread 4 inches
# 1 1/2 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 7/8 inches
#1 1/2 coilspring padded jaws Approximate Jaw spread 5 inches
#1 1/2 longspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 3/4 inches
#110 Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 4 1/2" x 4 1/2"
#120 Double spring Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 4 1/2" x 4 1/2"
#160 Double spring Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 6" x 6"
Opossum
#1 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 inches
#1 coilspring padded jaws Approximate Jaw spread 4 1/4 inches
#1 longspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 inches
#11 longspring ( two springs) Approximate Jaw spread 4 inches
# 1 1/2 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 7/8 inches
# 1 1/2 coilspring padded jaws Approximate Jaw spread 5 inches
# 1 1/2 longspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 3/4 inches
# 1 3/4 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 5 3/8 inches
# 2 Double longspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 3/4 inches
#160 Double spring Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 6" x 6"
#220 Double spring Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 7" x 7"
Otter
#2 coilspring Padded Jaws Approximate Jaw spread 5 1/2 inches
#3 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 6 1/4 inches
#3coilspring Padded Jaws Approximate Jaw spread 6 inches
#3 Double longspring Approximate Jaw spread 5 1/2 inches
#4 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 6 inches
#4 Double longspring Approximate Jaw spread 6 inches
#220 Double spring Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 7" x 7"
#280 Double spring Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 8" x 8"
#330 Double spring Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 10" x 10"
Raccoon
#1 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 inches
#1 coilspring padded jaws Approximate Jaw spread 4 1/4 inches
#1 longspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 inches
#11 longspring ( two springs) Approximate Jaw spread 4 inches
# 1 1/2 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 7/8 inches
# 1 1/2 coilspring padded jaws Approximate Jaw spread 5 inches
# 1 1/2 longspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 3/4 inches
# 2 Double longspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 3/4 inches
#160 Double spring Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 6" x 6"
#220 Double spring Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 7" x 7"
#280 Double spring Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 8" x 8"
Skunk
#1 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 inches
#1 coilspring padded jaws Approximate Jaw spread 4 1/4 inches
#1 longspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 inches
#11 longspring ( two springs) Approximate Jaw spread 4 inches
# 1 1/2 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 7/8 inches
# 1 1/2 coilspring padded jaws Approximate Jaw spread 5 inches
# 1 1/2 longspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 3/4 inches
#160 Double spring Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 6" x 6"
#220 Double spring Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 7" x 7"
Weasel
# 0 Longspring Approximate Jaw spread 3 1/2 inches
#110 Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 4 1/2" x 4 1/2"
#120 Double spring Conibear Aproximate jaw spread 4 1/2" x 4 1/2"
Large Predators:
Bobcat (Although I prefer to hunt using my flintlock or .22)
#1 3/4 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 5 3/8 inches
#2 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 5 1/2 inches
#2 coilspring Padded Jaws Approximate Jaw spread 5 1/2 inches
#3 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 6 1/4 inches
#3coilspring Padded Jaws Approximate Jaw spread 6 inches
#3 Double longspring Approximate Jaw spread 5 1/2 inches
Coyote (Although I prefer to hunt using my flintlock or .22)
#1 3/4 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 5 3/8 inches
#2 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 5 1/2 inches
#2 coilspring Padded Jaws Approximate Jaw spread 5 1/2 inches
#3 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 6 1/4 inches
#3coilspring Padded Jaws Approximate Jaw spread 6 inches
#3 Double longspring Approximate Jaw spread 5 1/2 inches
#4 Double longspring Approximate Jaw spread 6 inches
Fox (Although I prefer to hunt using my flintlock or .22)
# 1 1/2 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 4 7/8 inches
#1 1/2 coilspring padded jaws Approximate Jaw spread 5 inches
#1 3/4 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 5 3/8 inches
#2 coilspring Approximate Jaw spread 5 1/2 inches
#2 coilspring Padded Jaws Approximate Jaw spread 5 1/2 inches
I hope you found this info helpful in your trap selection. By using the proper size traps for the target animal you will produce a better catch with less damage and pain to the animal. There are many traps on the market today but it is your responsibility if your going to trap to use the proper one for the job.
Hope this helps you out.
Beo,
Remember, this is my way of doing it and others on here with more experience may may be able to tell you better, my traps are based off of the rules and regs for Ohio, Kentucky, and Indiana which is why they are so varried and I thre in some others made for those animals, check the regs in your area for what is allowed.
 ]]> Beo https://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/entry.php?132-Traps-amp-Trapping Rabbits and Diseases https://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/entry.php?131-Rabbits-and-Diseases Mon, 18 Aug 2008 12:35:50 GMT Everyone on here knows I do trekking, well on a trek I eat rabbit and some have asked how do I know if it has a disease, well most rabbit diseases... Everyone on here knows I do trekking, well on a trek I eat rabbit and some have asked how do I know if it has a disease, well
most rabbit diseases are rare, but there are a few one may worry about on occasion, the one to look for is RHD or Rabbit Hemorrhagic Disease, this can make a person anywhere from sick to being fatal, here is what I have learned on the disease, and some pics of what to look for. NOTE these pice may be ugly, nasty looking, graphic or disturbing to some. But this is well intended and a must for anyone that is going to skin a rabbit to eat.
Rabbit hemorrhagic disease is an extremely contagious and often fatal viral disease of domesticated and wild rabbits. This disease affects only rabbits of the species Oryctolagus cuniculus. Severe losses are common in unvaccinated animals; on some farms, most or all of the rabbits may die. This disease has also caused dramatic declines in some wild rabbit populations, particularly when it is first introduced. Rabbit hemorrhagic disease spreads very readily. The causative virus is very resistant to inactivation if it is protected by organic material; it may persist in chilled or frozen rabbit meat, as well as in decomposing carcasses in the environment, for months.
Rabbit hemorrhagic disease was first seen in the 1980s, but its origins are not completely understood. It may have emerged from avirulent caliciviruses circulating asymptomatically in European rabbit populations. The first known outbreak occurred in China in 1984, spread by angora rabbits that had been imported from Europe. Within nine months, this disease had killed 14 million domesticated rabbits in China. By the late 1990s, outbreaks had been reported from forty countries, and rabbit hemorrhagic disease had become endemic in wild rabbit populations in Europe, Australia and New Zealand. Other parts of the world including the Americas have experienced periodic outbreaks in domesticated rabbits. However, the species of wild rabbits found in North America are not susceptible to rabbit hemorrhagic disease, and this disease has been eradicated from domesticated rabbits each time.

Etiology
Rabbit hemorrhagic disease is caused by the rabbit hemorrhagic disease virus (RHDV), a member of the genus Lagovirus and family Caliciviridae. Many strains of RHDV appear to circulate in rabbit populations; these viruses can have distinct epidemiological and genetic characteristics. Only a single serotype is known, but two major subtypes exist: RHDV and the antigenic variant RHDVa. Nonpathogenic strains of RHDV have been identified in wild rabbits. One recent study suggests that different lineages of RHDV may have repeatedly emerged as epidemic viruses.

Species Affected
Rabbit hemorrhagic disease affects wild and domesticated members of the species Oryctolagus cuniculus. Other rabbit species including cottontails (Sylvilagus floridanus), black-tailed jackrabbits (Lepus californicus) and volcano rabbits (Romerolagus diazzi) do not seem to be susceptible. Similarly, European brown hares (Lepus europaeus) and varying (snowshoe) hares (Lepus americanus) are not affected by RHDV, although they are susceptible to a rabbit disease caused by a different calicivirus (European brown hare syndrome). Virus replication has not been reported in other mammals, including rabbit predators, although seroconversion can occur.

Geographic Distribution
Rabbit hemorrhagic disease is endemic in Australia, New Zealand, Cuba, parts of Asia and Africa, and most of Europe. Outbreaks have also been reported from domesticated rabbits in the Middle East and the Americas. Rabbit hemorrhagic disease was endemic in domesticated rabbits in Mexico from the late 1980s to 1991, and limited, independent outbreaks were reported from the U.S. in 2000 (Iowa), 2001 (Utah, Illinois, New York) and 2005 (Indiana). However, the disease was eradicated in each case, and rabbit hemorrhagic disease is not currently endemic in North America.

Transmission
Rabbit hemorrhagic disease is transmitted by direct contact with infected animals, as well as on fomites. Rabbits can acquire this disease through the oral, nasal or conjunctival routes. Most or all excretions including urine, feces and respiratory secretions are thought to contain virus. Animals may remain infectious for up to a month. RHDV can also be acquired by exposure to an infected carcass or hair from an infected animal. Long-term, persistent or latent infections have recently been recognized in rabbits. Whether viral RNA becomes reactivated in these carriers, and under what conditions, is unknown.
RHDV is readily spread on fomites including contaminated food, bedding and water. Flies and other insects are very efficient mechanical vectors; only a few virions are needed to infect a rabbit by the conjunctival route. Wild animals can transmit the virus mechanically. Although virus replication does not seem to occur in predators or scavengers, these animals can excrete RHDV in feces after eating infected rabbits.
RHDV is very resistant to inactivation when it is protected within tissues. This virus can survive for 7.5 months in tissue suspensions stored at 4°C (39°F), and for more than three months at 20°C (68°F) in dried organ homogenates. In one study, RHDV remained viable in decomposing rabbit carcasses at 22°C (72°F) for up to 20 days, but only seroconversion was reported at 26 or 30 days. However, virus-inoculated bovine liver left to decompose in New Zealand fields (to simulate infected carcasses) remained infectious for at least three months. Unprotected viruses shed in excretions are not thought to remain viable for more than a few weeks, and may lose some of their infectivity within one to two weeks. RHDV is also reported to survive exposure to pH 3.0, heat of 50°C (122°F) for an hour, and freeze-thaw cycles.

Incubation Period
The incubation period is one to three days.
All rabbits can become infected with RHDV, but young animals are resistant to disease. Typically, symptoms occur only in animals that are more than eight weeks old. Peracute or acute disease is described most often in domesticated rabbits, but subacute and chronic disease can also be seen. In peracute infections, infected rabbits develop a fever and die suddenly within 12 to 36 hours of its onset. The only symptoms may be terminal squeals followed rapidly by collapse and death. In acute disease, dullness, anorexia, congestion of the palpebral conjunctiva, or prostration may be seen. Animals with acute disease can also develop neurologic signs including incoordination, excitement, opisthotonos and paddling. Some rabbits turn and flip quickly in their cages; this can resemble convulsions or mania. Respiratory symptoms, including dyspnea, cyanosis and a terminal, bloodstained, frothy nasal discharge, sometimes occur. Lacrimation, ocular hemorrhages or epistaxis may also be seen. Some animals that recover from acute disease develop severe jaundice, with weight loss and lethargy, and die in a few weeks. In these animals, there may be diarrhea or constipation and abdominal dilatation just before death. Similar but milder symptoms are seen in the subacute form, and most of the rabbits may survive. Chronic, persistent infections are thought to be asymptomatic.

Rabbit. Severe epistaxis or bleeding

Rabbit, lungs. The trachea is filled with foam, and the lungs are mottled and noncollapsed (severe pulmonary edema).

Rabbit, heart. There are multiple epicardial hemorrhages.

Rabbit, liver. There is a large area of pallor (necrosis) with a prominent reticular pattern.

I eat a lot of rabbit when trekking so when skinning any rabbit to eat I always look for these signs, its a great tell if the rabbit has RHD. Boiling, cooking, and cutting it out WILL NOT WORK. If you see any of these signs DO NOT EAT THE RABBIT.
Hope this helps.
Beo, ]]> Beo https://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/entry.php?131-Rabbits-and-Diseases