Tanning Hides the Beo Way... lol

[Beo]

To give proper credit, this information was copied from: http://mullerslanefarm.com/braintan

Okay here is how I tan hides, it is a long process that takes time and I am sure there are others on here that have other ways and easier ways, but I learn from the school of hard knocks so its how I do it.
This site is great for reading up on tanning and how it’s done,
http://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/_l/l-103.pdf
I also have done it the way shown below, but in the end I have found it to be a learning process and end up doing it my own way which is a rough made up way between the two shown here.

I'll warn you right now that this will develop your arm, back and abdomen muscles!! I'm going to write this as if you know nothing about deer and tanning. Ready??? Here goes!

** Getting the hide **
1a. From the Animal: Peel or cut the hide away from the animal. The hide should be split up the belly and include the neck, partial legs and tail. (Cut the tail away for fly fishing flies!! Save the hooves and dew claws for necklaces, rattles or decorations on bags and garments. Well, that's what I do! There is a trick to removing the hooves and dew claws. I'll tell you about that some other time if you're interested!)
Be very careful to not nick the hide during removal, this could cause problems later on in the tanning process. Better to remove it 'dirty' (a lot of flesh still on the hide) from the animal. ** Do Not salt the hide **
1b. From a butcher: Go to your local deer processor and ask if they will give you deer hides (while you're there, pick up deer suet and render up some tallow for soap and candles!) Some places will charge you for the hides, some won't. If they do, here is the rule of thumb I use. If the hide is frozen, don't pay more than $5. You don't know what you are getting. If you can look at a fresh hide, examine the flesh side. A good fresh, raw (** Not Salted **) hide will go for $8-$10 Check the number of holes in the hide. 2 is acceptable (entry and exit wound) any more than that and I start deducting $1 per hole. If you can get a hide where there is little flesh and no nicks, this is prime! Otherwise get a hide that has a lot of flesh (red meat) still on it.
Notes on a salted hide: If all you can get is a salted hide, then your first step is to rinse, rinse, rinse, rinse. You need to get the salt out of the hide. Once you have rinsed it real well a couple dozen times, then rinse it again (always in clean flowing water) again a dozen times more.

** Fleshing the hide **
2. 'Flesh' the hide. In essence this is removing all the meat and fat on the flesh side of the hide. I know, I know I just told you to get one that had a lot of flesh! There are a couple ways I know of fleshing deer. One is with a fleshing knife and beam, a traditional way is to use a deer leg bone or iron flesher. I use a fleshing beam and knife and always flesh the hide when it is partially frozen, the flesh seems to peel right off. There is also a thin 'film' between the flesh and the hide. Try to get as much of this off too. If you can't get it now, don't worry, you can get it when the hide dries. It is very, very, very important that you get every itty-bitty, little piece of flesh and fat from the hide.

** Drying the hide **
3. * The drying frame: I have frames I have made using four 2"x4". I have pairs in varying lengths from 5' to 10'. The ends of each 2x4 is notched so that it will fit with the alternate boards I'm using. I secure them together with 'C' clamps. Each board has large nails spaced about 3" apart. When putting the hide on the frame, I lean the frame up against a wall. Alternately, pound some nails about 3" apart on a wall in a 6' square. It is essential that you make sure there are a couple inches between the hide and the wall for air circulation.
* Make small slits all around the edge of the hide, parallel with the hide's edge (this helps to prevent the hide from tearing) about 3-5" apart.
* For this step you will need a Lot of nails and a Lot of cord (about the size of a laundry line)
**Note: if you are using an outside wall or the side of a barn, make sure the hide is high enough for critters not to get at it!
Tie a loop at the end of a 2' piece of cord. Find the center of the neck, insert the loop from the hair side to the flesh side. Put a nail in the loop, tie the other end of the cord on a nail at the top center of your frame.
Tie a loop on the end of 2 other pieces of 2' cord. Find a hole on each back leg, insert the loop from the hair side to the flesh side. Put a nail in the loop, pull the cord and tie the other end of the cord on a nail in each bottom corner of the frame. This should stretch the hide from the top to the bottom sides. You may also want to do this for the front legs also. Make sure you start with the neck and tie off the rear, legs second then the fore legs, then continue around as described in next paragraph. This keeps the integrity of the shape of the hide.
Starting back up at the neck, find the hole to the right or left of the center neck hole, insert the loop from the hair side to the flesh side. Put a nail in the loop, pull the cord so the nail is tight and loop it around another nail in the frame. Find the next hole on the hide and make a loop (Not tied) with the cord, insert the loop, put a nail in the loop, pull the cord so the nail is tight and loop it around another nail in the frame. Continue in this fashion until you have reached the underside of the front leg. Tie off the cord on the frame and start on the other side of the hide, continue past the underside of the front legs, going to the rear leg where you originally tied this up. Tie off the cord to the frame and go back to the first side. The object is to Stretch the hide onto the frame. You might be surprised how much a wet hide will stretch. Remember, the better you stretch it, the bigger your piece of finished leather.
Let the hide stay in this manner until it is thoroughly dried. Depending on your climate, this could take 1-7 days. Now is the time to peel that thin film that may be left on the flesh side. If it is acting stubborn, I've been know to take course sand paper and sand the flesh side.

Continued below.

[Beo]

Continued from above...
** Dehairing the hide ** (optional - if not dehairing, you must take care in next step to NOT get brain solution on hair side
There is only one way I know to dehair. It is using old fashioned elk antler hide scraper. (I'm sure there are other ways, but I will warn you Not to use chemicals!) The elk antler scraper is a piece of elk antler in the "L" shape. When you are using it the "L" looks upside down. The top of the scraper is smoothed flat and a piece of metal, the width of the scraper is tied on with rawhide with one end projecting over the end of the scraper. This projected end is curved and a beveled edge is ground on it.
If you stretched the hide to the side of the barn, you need to put it on a lower portion of the barn to dehair it. Fortunately, using the method we did, all you need to do is pull the nails out of the loops on the flesh side and then pull the cording through the holes.
If you stretched your hide on a frame, simply flip the frame so the hair side is exposed. Using the elk horn scraper, you actually scrape the hair and scarf skin (epidermis) off. You can use a lot of pressure on the hide to do this. Be very careful around any holes, also be careful over any thin areas on the hide, caused by nicks. The belly and leg area are also thin. Too much pressure in these areas will cause ‘blow outs’. These can be sewn back up once you’ve tanned the hide.
When all the hair is off, take it down and cut it close to the holes (unless you are Really good and have managed to get every little bit of hair off around all those holes! You may be able to find implements to dehair in taxidermist magazines. The important part to remember is to take not just the hair off (shaving) but the scarf skin also. This is so the brains can saturate into the hide. Scarf skin will remain rough after the tanning process.

*** Braining the Hide ***
(An easy step!)
Cook the brain of the animal in about 1 cup of water until the brain is tender. Each animal has enough brains to tan its own hide. (In a pinch you can use hog or cattle brains or straight Murphy's Oil Soap). Put the water and brain in a blender and blend it very well. Your hide will be hard and dry, you will need to get it wet & pliable again to incorporate the brain mixture. It won't take much water to do this! Once it is wet, you'll need to get as much water out so the hide can absorb the brains. Wring it out and then place between towels and wring again, change towels as needed. You will need to apply the brain mixture to both sides of the hide. Smoosh it in really well. Now you will have to let the hide sit for at least 24 hours. The longer it sits and absorbs the brain the better. I roll the hide up into a ball and put it in a gallon freezer bag to store in the refrigerator (or freezer if it will be more than a few days.)

*** Softening the Hide ***
(back to work!)
(Some folks rinse the brains out of the hide before this step, but I've never done this.) Put the hide back up in the frame (using the technique described before) and squeegee out as much as the brains as you can. I use a rounded paddle that was made for me out of deer antler and a stiff rounded piece of metal. You could probably make one using a large putty knife (or drywall knife) just make sure the ends are curved and well rounded so you won't tear the hide!
Some folks just keep paddling the hide while it's in the frame until it's soft and dry. I do a combination of paddling in the frame, then taking it out and stretching it in all directions for a while, then putting it back in the frame. If you take it out to stretch it, it is a lot easier to have two people pulling on it. Pull the hide from the edges, rotate it and turn again. The time it takes to dry and soften the hide depends on the weather. I try to save this step for a winter day when I have the fireplace going so it's good and dry in the house. If you're working this step when it's humid, it will take longer than forever!! I've done this step in as little as four hours and as long as over a period of days. If you get too tired while doing this step, just roll it back up into a ball and put it back in the freezer bag and back in the freezer.
I also have a ‘hide breaker’ which is a length of 2X4 with a rounded metal blade at one end. I place the board between my feet and run the hide back and forth. Alternately, I’ll string a thick piece of rough rope vertically and pull the hide back and forth, rotating it until it’s all soft.

I hope this explains the process well enough. If you have any questions, get a hold of me!

Or the easiest way of all, go to Tandy Leather's web site and order your hides there... lol alot easier but not as rewarding.
Beo,

[Beo]

YCC, if that doesn't help I can try a few other ways I go about tanning hides, large and small. Just let me know.
Beo,

[your_comforting_company]

Thanks beo.
I didn't need "help" per se, I was just curious about your methods and technique. The way I do it is very similar, except I don't dry scrape in the frame. I prefer wet-scrape as it's self regulating and dang near impossible to pop holes.

I've had bad experiences with hog brains. I think they are too "fat" and I've had a couple hides stiffen up on me which is how I learned how well the pre-smoking method worked. The second go 'round on softening I used deer brains and they turned out super soft.

My brain mixture is not very diluted. I mix 1 brain with 1 cup water, cook it, add to 4 cups of warm water in the bucket for 6 cups total, rather than the 8 cups in the recipes I've read about.

maybe I can get pics of my rig up some time today. I'd really like to see a pic of your 2x4 staker. I am using a 5" grinder wheel, rather than a metal end as it seems to abrade better, but it works basically the same.

Thanks for sharing, I know there are lots of little intricate details not covered in your post, but this is a great outline on braintanning. very straightforward, clear and concise. Excellent post bro!

[TomChemEngineer]

I've been wondering about the brain tanning method for a long time. Thanks for explaining it in such detail.
I'm more of a quasi-chemical guy... salt and alum (potassium aluminum sulfate). 5 pounds of salt in 10 gallons water, dissolve 2 pounds of alum in enough water to dissolve it. Combine the solutions. Won't overtan the hide. Can leave the fur/ hair on or take it off with various methods using this method. Deer hide takes 6-8 days in the solution, agitating the hide a couple of times a day with a stick or wooden paddle.
I won't do the commercial process using chromium compounds. Nor should any of us home-tanners. Too much toxic stuff.
I have considered extracting tannins from various barks and trying that, but have not done it yet. The tannins will make the hides brown. I used to be able to buy dried tannic acid someplace in the 1960's, but have not looked for that in many years.
Or, at some point I would like to do maybe a combination of methods starting with a salting, then a scraping, then maybe a smoking, then the salt and alum, then drying out on some sort of rack then working it and oiling it.
Any of these methods need a significant amount of effort after tanning is done, working the hides across an edge or through rings to make them soft and pliable, some spot sanding (maybe) after it is dry, then an application of neatsfoot oil to preserve it and keep it pliable (and water repellent).
There are as many formulations and processes for tanning a hide as there are for making bread or making grits, and I'm told that most all of them work (more or less). I'm no expert, just relaying some information.
Thanks again for all these posts. This is a skill that is nearly lost since most hide tanning is done commercially with more harsh chemicals, and these less intrusive home-tanning methods should to be relearned at some point.

[your_comforting_company]

tomchem, I just finished posting a thread on bark tanning in this same forum if you'd like to try it. I'd like to know some of the other barks you find that work and what colors you end with. I prefer to stay away from any industrially processed chemicals. the amount of energy consumption, and pollution created by the manufacturers sort of defeats the purpose of natural tanning...All the chemicals you need to tan soft supple buckskin are either in the deer, or in the woods. chemical tans will not produce true buckskin but rather a less durable similarity. braintan buckskin is not affected by sweat the way those chemical tans are and it is completely washable. Braintan cannot be matched for comfort nor quality.

Beo, I think you left out he smoking step at the end after softening. I had a question about wringing but it seems you don't do that step. I always end up with small spots that are wetter than others and have to do a good deal of hand toweling to get it ready for braining.
I use sandstone for buffing the hide while in the frame. It's very important to buff your hides as you work them dry or a "crust" will form on the surface and you end with a rather stiffy-knap. I used to use pumice but I didn't like the coarser knap as much as I do the fine-fluff of sandstone (that I found under a 15' high waterfall :D). cabling with the rope serves the purpose of softening AND buffing at the same time. coarser cables make coarser knap.
I was also curious about what colors you got from whatever various woods you use for smoking but you didn't talk about that step (yet). I use laurel oak for a light brown tan color and red cedar for a golden-reddish color.

[your_comforting_company]

also of note, is that buckskin is not oily as would anything be that was treated with neatsfoot or similar oils.

[your_comforting_company]

it's not finished till it's smoked. braintan is actually aldehyde tanning. As rotten wood burns, it releases many chemicals in gaseous form. We use the aldehydes available in it to actually tan the hide. softened buckskin that is not smoked, when wetted, will dry back to it's rawhide state and become unwearable. smoking is necessary to preserve the softness that we worked so hard for.
At the end of softening, you have collagen fibers (protien chains), with oil molecules (brains, aka amino acids and lipids) attached at the end where the mucus was attached. Gaseous formaldehyde and glutaraldehyde will bind with this yet incomplete molecule to make the oil (brain) be insoluble in water.

for smoking you need some dead dry wood. I say dead, but I mean rotten. You should be able to crumble most of it with your hands, but a hammer will make short work of pulverizing any pieces that aren't quite there yet. This is laurel oak punk I collected last year.
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg184/your_comforting_company/Brain%20Tanning/100_6010.jpg

you need a fire where you can get good coals from. you aren't starting a fire under the hide, you just want it to smolder. I use a smudge pot because it's mobile, and self contained. It's easy to monitor and regulate. This is an old milk can I scavenged and some other junk I had laying around. the skirt is from the leg of some old britches.
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg184/your_comforting_company/Brain%20Tanning/100_6009.jpg

I glue the hide onto itself around the perimeter to make a sort of pillowcase. The grain side is inside on the first smoking. Use clothespins to close up any holes and painters tape for holes in the middle of the hide. I suspend it from above, in this case the ceiling, but I have an outdoor tripod for days when the wind isn't 20mph like it was yesterday.
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg184/your_comforting_company/Brain%20Tanning/100_6007.jpg

I smoked this hide for 2 hours on the grain side and about 30 minutes on the flesh side.
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg184/your_comforting_company/Brain%20Tanning/100_6014.jpg

20 minutes is long enough to smoke the hide completely, and the longer you smoke it the deeper the color. this one turned a beautiful gold color. The picture doesn't really do it justice. When smoking the grain side you will notice after a while that you are getting color on the outside of the smoking sack (flesh side). this is a good indication that you are getting good smoke penetration.
Once you have the color you want it is ready to be washed. when washed it will try to return to it's natural shape. if you let it dry it will still be soft although possibly slightly misshapen.
I've washed my buckskin shirt several times and it only has lost a little color. it is still soft and bouncy as true buckskin should be.
this is hide #2 that I smoked yesterday. I was indoors and you cant tell that it's golden but I used the same setup to get the same color.
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg184/your_comforting_company/Brain%20Tanning/100_6019.jpg

[flandersander]

I've always wanted to try tanning but have never really wanted to tackle something as large as a deer. Is it feasable to tan something smaller lake a muskrat? They're all over here, and i can trap them leagally. The quality of buckskin that comes from a muskrat might be questionable but is it worth a try?

[canid]

nice boiler. i could think of a couple great used for something like that.

[your_comforting_company]

flanders, I'll tan anything that comes across my table. muskrat might be too thin to make true buckskin type material, but I've never tanned one myself so it's hard to say. You could braintan one as a fur, which just means skipping a couple steps and doing a couple things differently. To me, it is just as easy to do one big deer skin as it is to do a small fox or coon. Don't let the size intimidate you.
Is it worth a try (muskrat)? YES! I would do it as a fur, most likely. Most small, thin-skinned animals won't hold up to the de-graining scrape. If you decide to try it, hit me up, I'll be glad to help.
We don't have muskrats around here. I'm wondering about the regulations regarding export of a hide across the state line, but I'd sure like to try one! ;) ;)

[flandersander]

Okay. So the grain is the layer of skin under the fur? The epidermis i guess? I could do like you said and do a hair on tan. Would a skrat have enough brains to tan its own skin do you think?

[your_comforting_company]

It has been said that "every animal has enough brains to tan it's own hide, except buffalo and some people I know". with that in mind, I think a skrat would have enough for it's own pelt. I usually have surplus deer brains so I just use what extra I have, but it should be enough to use the rat's. I do know from experience that a squirrels brain is enough to do it's own pelt.

The epidermis is (for our purposes here) inclusive of the hair, dead cells, live cells and follicles right down to the fiber network under the papillary layer where they fit together like egg crates. Boot leather has the grain on and suede has it removed, if that makes sense. Furs are like boot leather, except the hair is left on too.
perhaps I should do a post on tanning furs? they are treated a little differently than buckskin.

[flandersander]

So, i've been cruising the net, searching for tanning methods. I happened to have a car battery that won't take a charge anymore, so I figured i'd make use of the acid, and tan with it. I can maybe use the lead later to make some .58 balls. Anyways, I came across this site, and it would seem that this guy/gal has figured you don't need to stretch the hide after the tanning process. They just coat it in neat's foot oil. That's what I got from it anyway. Here's the link.
http://www.3pointhunting.com/Articles/tanning.htm
I think the method seems alright, I just don't know about the whole neats foot oil thing. Could it be because it was not tanned with brains, that it needs the oil to keep the hide soft? I caught a skrat, and found it to be surprisingly prime. I'll be doing a fur on tan. Thanks
Keagan

[your_comforting_company]

I guess it really depends on what kind of finished product you want. If you want heavy, greasy, unnatural feeling tans, this is the easy out method. If you're gonna buy all that battery acid, etc., you might as well just buy some chemical tanned leather and save yourself some time and money.
If you want soft, lightweight, washable product, I strongly recommend forgetting you ever found that link.
Just my opinion.
For a fur on tan, you can either salt and brain, or make a bark solution and soak. Bark or vegetable tan will give you a tight leather, akin to what boots and belts are made of. Brain tanning is definately the way I would go, and if you want it soft and stretchy, then you need to manually soften it by stretching. If fur color isn't a big priority, you can go pick yourself a croker-sack full of sumac leaves (from anything but the toxicodendron genus), dry them, crush them, put them in water, and drop the skin in. Wait somewhere around 50 days, according to a friends experiment over the spring, take it out, oil or brain it, and you're done.
Tell me a little more about what you want from this skin and I can provide you with a cheaper, less polluting method of tanning. Like I said, if you are gonna use all those chemicals and create all that waste, you might as well just buy the leather.
I don't use chemicals because of the pollution caused in manufacturing of said chemicals, and then the waste created after you've used it up.

[flandersander]

Well, this is just me trying things out, but I would eventually like to be able to have a soft, stretchy fur-on tan. Real soft, thin leather, like from a rabbit or something similar. Maybe not the easiest starting material, but this is what i'm after. I've got the skin side sitting on ashes and salt, and it's only been a day. So the brain tan can still be done. I was told letting the ashes sit on the skin will make the membrane easier to remove.

[MullersLaneFarm]

I realize this is a very old thread, but take offense that my tanning technique was lifted word for word from my (mullerslanefarm.com/braintan) webpage without my knowledge or even acknowledgement that it was not the OP's.

[welderguy]

I realize this is a very old thread, but take offense that my tanning technique was lifted word for word from my (mullerslanefarm.com/braintan) webpage without my knowledge or even acknowledgement that it was not the OP's.

I do not think the OP was taking credit as it being his method just saying it is one way he does it and posted the instructions.

[crashdive123]

I realize this is a very old thread, but take offense that my tanning technique was lifted word for word from my (mullerslanefarm.com/braintan) webpage without my knowledge or even acknowledgement that it was not the OP's.

Now proper credit has been given. Our apologies for any plagiarism that may have occurred. If you look back at the OP, a link was provided. While no longer a valid link, if that is where the information came from, then it is not the OP that "lifted" your work word for word.

[MullersLaneFarm]

Thank you, crashdive.

No, the link provided was/is not the source of the information. The link I provided (mullerslanefarm.com/braintan) was written & copyrighted 13 years ago and reposted here word for word, with the exception of leaving off my email address which followed "I hope this explains the process well enough. If you have any questions, get a hold of me!"

I don't mind sharing information, otherwise I wouldn't have published the page on my website! I would deeply appreciate if the OP would be modified to just give the link to my page otherwise it is a copyright infringement ... not that I would do anything about it ... it is just the ehtics of the matter.

[hunter63]

Thanks for bring this up..........

Copy and paste seems to be a favorite way of passing information......sadly.
I have a problem with people not getting credit as well....and point it out when eve I get a chance.
How hard can it be to just say...."Hey I found this today....hope it helps....?"

I guess they don't realize you can copy and paste the first few paragraphs in Google and find the original work, or at least one step closer to it.

If you get used to the way someone posts....you can tell right away that some of the log posts aren't theirs, but copied from somewhere else.

I have even seen some of my pictures posted on other people blogs....and know it came for this forum or Google images.

BTW good info in the OP ...........Thanks for the work in writing it up.

[crashdive123]

Thank you, crashdive.

No, the link provided was/is not the source of the information. The link I provided (mullerslanefarm.com/braintan) was written & copyrighted 13 years ago and reposted here word for word, with the exception of leaving off my email address which followed "I hope this explains the process well enough. If you have any questions, get a hold of me!"

I don't mind sharing information, otherwise I wouldn't have published the page on my website! I would deeply appreciate if the OP would be modified to just give the link to my page otherwise it is a copyright infringement ... not that I would do anything about it ... it is just the ehtics of the matter.

I have gone back and edited the OP. I hope you approve of the change (in red).

[MullersLaneFarm]

Thank you for the validation Hunter63.

Crashdive, I really do appreciate that you modified the OP.

[RangerXanatos]

Copy and paste seems to be a favorite way of passing information......sadly.
I have a problem with people not getting credit as well....and point it out when eve I get a chance.
How hard can it be to just say...."Hey I found this today....hope it helps....?"



When I find something somewhere else I want to share, I will put the body in a quote box with the link either above or below it. Then there's no questions that I'm trying to take credit for it.

[hunter63]

Thank you for the validation Hunter63.

Crashdive, I really do appreciate that you modified the OP.

Hope y'all are gonna stick around a bit and pass some of that first hand knowledge on.....?

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Will (http://handsfreetelephone.ru/t/842921)Step (http://hangonpart.ru/t/883034)а�тр (http://haphazardwinding.ru/t/741805)�ерт (http://hardalloyteeth.ru/t/567077)�ови (http://hardasiron.ru/t/568235)по�о (http://hardenedconcrete.ru/t/809559)Rudy (http://harmonicinteraction.ru/t/849210)Ва�и (http://hartlaubgoose.ru/t/674106)Мерц (http://hatchholddown.ru/t/808749)�лек (http://haveafinetime.ru/t/1009938)Diet (http://hazardousatmosphere.ru/t/829844)Сему (http://headregulator.ru/t/1328587)ELEG (http://heartofgold.ru/t/1547263)�ким (http://heatageingresistance.ru/t/805855)Mens (http://heatinggas.ru/t/1189185)
Blac (http://heavydutymetalcutting.ru/t/1182326)Mucc (http://jacketedwall.ru/t/651261)Paul (http://japanesecedar.ru/t/636792)Alfr (http://jibtypecrane.ru/t/768739)Шаро (http://jobabandonment.ru/t/639110)Edga (http://jobstress.ru/t/654847)Введ (http://jogformation.ru/t/787859)Push (http://jointcapsule.ru/t/1147355)Omsa (http://jointsealingmaterial.ru/t/1147699)Kath (http://journallubricator.ru/t/1066933)Push (http://juicecatcher.ru/t/1147356)мело (http://junctionofchannels.ru/t/1180198)Ð*азм (http://justiciablehomicide.ru/t/1181706)Unde (http://juxtapositiontwin.ru/t/1183071)Vent (http://kaposidisease.ru/t/1179849)
Sela (http://keepagoodoffing.ru/t/1180932)Chri (http://keepsmthinhand.ru/t/638322)Mike (http://kentishglory.ru/t/1182940)Adio (http://kerbweight.ru/t/1179691)Zone (http://kerrrotation.ru/t/608728)Rond (http://keymanassurance.ru/t/610890)Sela (http://keyserum.ru/t/1180720)Клим (http://kickplate.ru/t/893049)Juda (http://killthefattedcalf.ru/t/1204087)Juli (http://kilowattsecond.ru/t/781480)Pier (http://kingweakfish.ru/t/889629)филь (http://kinozones.ru/film/7657)Крут (http://kleinbottle.ru/t/686807)Trav (http://kneejoint.ru/t/847133)Улащ (http://knifesethouse.ru/t/1248695)
Tris (http://knockonatom.ru/t/760159)Бо�р (http://knowledgestate.ru/t/841540)�вто (http://kondoferromagnet.ru/t/1239639)03-0 (http://labeledgraph.ru/t/1194417)Need (http://laborracket.ru/t/1091484)хоз� (http://labourearnings.ru/t/1466437)Eisf (http://labourleasing.ru/t/1245262)Zone (http://laburnumtree.ru/t/1190429)diam (http://lacingcourse.ru/t/1188700)Zone (http://lacrimalpoint.ru/t/1188352)Zone (http://lactogenicfactor.ru/t/1186679)Zone (http://lacunarycoefficient.ru/t/1193200)Zone (http://ladletreatediron.ru/t/1191785)Zone (http://laggingload.ru/t/1190090)Zone (http://laissezaller.ru/t/1191725)
Zone (http://lambdatransition.ru/t/1191768)Zone (http://laminatedmaterial.ru/t/1193211)2415 (http://lammasshoot.ru/t/1184017)Zone (http://lamphouse.ru/t/1184914)diam (http://lancecorporal.ru/t/1184852)lsbk (http://lancingdie.ru/t/1186281)MORG (http://landingdoor.ru/t/1188470)чи�т (http://landmarksensor.ru/t/1184614)Zone (http://landreform.ru/t/1186750)Zone (http://landuseratio.ru/t/1185076)Zone (http://languagelaboratory.ru/t/1190886)хоро (http://largeheart.ru/shop/1159994)авто (http://lasercalibration.ru/shop/152036)TRAS (http://laserlens.ru/lase_zakaz/1714)Mimo (http://laserpulse.ru/shop/589201)

[yellowcab]

иÑ�пр (http://laterevent.ru/shop/1178479)Прои (http://latrinesergeant.ru/shop/452105)Dimp (http://layabout.ru/shop/99536)Ð�фан (http://leadcoating.ru/shop/25022)Tran (http://leadingfirm.ru/shop/101396)Форм (http://learningcurve.ru/shop/224947)SQui (http://leaveword.ru/shop/145141)PETE (http://machinesensible.ru/shop/101368)Кита (http://magneticequator.ru/shop/195069)Wood (http://magnetotelluricfield.ru/shop/145832)Ð*оÑ�Ñ� (http://mailinghouse.ru/shop/66912)Mist (http://majorconcern.ru/shop/268146)Infi (http://mammasdarling.ru/shop/158757)Ritm (http://managerialstaff.ru/shop/159229)ARAG (http://manipulatinghand.ru/shop/613030)
винт (http://manualchoke.ru/shop/468314)по�т (http://medinfobooks.ru/book/2817)Musi (http://mp3lists.ru/item/7129)�рти (http://nameresolution.ru/shop/144830)Edit (http://naphtheneseries.ru/shop/104189)ин�т (http://narrowmouthed.ru/shop/448995)ин�т (http://nationalcensus.ru/shop/176439)обще (http://naturalfunctor.ru/shop/23633)Jagu (http://navelseed.ru/shop/100496)упак (http://neatplaster.ru/shop/176724)Gonn (http://necroticcaries.ru/shop/27393)wwwm (http://negativefibration.ru/shop/176575)Sams (http://neighbouringrights.ru/shop/98108)знак (http://objectmodule.ru/shop/108196)Pana (http://observationballoon.ru/shop/10338)
Hyun (http://obstructivepatent.ru/shop/98025)Caro (http://oceanmining.ru/shop/570629)Fris (http://octupolephonon.ru/shop/571615)клуб (http://offlinesystem.ru/shop/147420)ЛитÐ* (http://offsetholder.ru/shop/199426)ЛитÐ* (http://olibanumresinoid.ru/shop/146618)Лекц (http://onesticket.ru/shop/378771)Funn (http://packedspheres.ru/shop/579136)Cybe (http://pagingterminal.ru/shop/585774)ЛитÐ* (http://palatinebones.ru/shop/201226)ЛитÐ* (http://palmberry.ru/shop/204440)XVII (http://papercoating.ru/shop/580291)Ð*оза (http://paraconvexgroup.ru/shop/684529)XVII (http://parasolmonoplane.ru/shop/1165848)Ð*оза (http://parkingbrake.ru/shop/1165911)
Петр (http://partfamily.ru/shop/1164879)Стре (http://partialmajorant.ru/shop/1167637)Теве (http://quadrupleworm.ru/shop/1225130)(184 (http://qualitybooster.ru/shop/154119)Сауш (http://quasimoney.ru/shop/593424)bonu (http://quenchedspark.ru/shop/593320)Radi (http://quodrecuperet.ru/shop/125975)Prem (http://rabbetledge.ru/shop/1070490)проф (http://radialchaser.ru/shop/125492)Вене (http://radiationestimator.ru/shop/172846)Горш (http://railwaybridge.ru/shop/337998)атак (http://randomcoloration.ru/shop/509726)Петр (http://rapidgrowth.ru/shop/635122)Fran (http://rattlesnakemaster.ru/shop/1000224)Paul (http://reachthroughregion.ru/shop/127720)
Звер (http://readingmagnifier.ru/shop/175296)Simo (http://rearchain.ru/shop/344583)Klau (http://recessioncone.ru/shop/513121)Haji (http://recordedassignment.ru/shop/14482)Дри� (http://rectifiersubstation.ru/shop/1047240)61-6 (http://redemptionvalue.ru/shop/1058571)Сави (http://reducingflange.ru/shop/1068251)Яков (http://referenceantigen.ru/shop/1692314)Ушак (http://regeneratedprotein.ru/shop/1214258)Soph (http://reinvestmentplan.ru/shop/121169)Kirs (http://safedrilling.ru/shop/1323385)авто (http://sagprofile.ru/shop/1041667)Стра (http://salestypelease.ru/shop/1064511)И�ае (http://samplinginterval.ru/shop/1407248)школ (http://satellitehydrology.ru/shop/1453397)
�ешк (http://scarcecommodity.ru/shop/1433455)Каза (http://scrapermat.ru/shop/1454826)Jeff (http://screwingunit.ru/shop/1488149)Форм (http://seawaterpump.ru/shop/172452)Шпол (http://secondaryblock.ru/shop/248555)�амо (http://secularclergy.ru/shop/266940)Отеч (http://seismicefficiency.ru/shop/41176)инте (http://selectivediffuser.ru/shop/53952)изда (http://semiasphalticflux.ru/shop/398371)Luci (http://semifinishmachining.ru/shop/71969)TRAS (http://spicetrade.ru/spice_zakaz/1714)TRAS (http://spysale.ru/spy_zakaz/1714)TRAS (http://stungun.ru/stun_zakaz/1714)худо (http://tacticaldiameter.ru/shop/475299)Каза (http://tailstockcenter.ru/shop/488474)
Мура (http://tamecurve.ru/shop/82398)Бело (http://tapecorrection.ru/shop/83890)�епо (http://tappingchuck.ru/shop/484748)Elea (http://taskreasoning.ru/shop/496551)This (http://technicalgrade.ru/shop/1814098)Teen (http://telangiectaticlipoma.ru/shop/620302)Funt (http://telescopicdamper.ru/shop/620022)школ (http://temperateclimate.ru/shop/270300)У�пе (http://temperedmeasure.ru/shop/398368)Карн (http://tenementbuilding.ru/shop/940538)tuchkas (http://tuchkas.ru/)худо (http://ultramaficrock.ru/shop/969515)Емел (http://ultraviolettesting.ru/shop/475761)

[yellowcab]

Слуш (http://audiobookkeeper.ru/book/5245)1037 (http://cottagenet.ru/plan/653)дела (http://eyesvision.ru/lectures/285)Repr (http://eyesvisions.com/bates-medical-articles-use-of-extract-of-suprarenal-capsule)Слеп (http://factoringfee.ru/t/299821)Ð*ок- (http://filmzones.ru/t/130004)qвдл (http://gadwall.ru/t/130102)Pete (http://gaffertape.ru/t/334752)1877 (http://gageboard.ru/t/299878)Desm (http://gagrule.ru/t/208471)Барт (http://gallduct.ru/t/267019)Raye (http://galvanometric.ru/t/172275)B114 (http://gangforeman.ru/t/139972)Ð*оÑ�Ñ� (http://gangwayplatform.ru/t/141286)Крив (http://garbagechute.ru/t/671886)
Gran (http://gardeningleave.ru/t/136266)зару (http://gascautery.ru/t/248143)Funn (http://gashbucket.ru/t/98260)Robe (http://gasreturn.ru/t/284602)Rich (http://gatedsweep.ru/t/297813)побы (http://gaugemodel.ru/t/667203)Dean (http://gaussianfilter.ru/t/663714)цвет (http://gearpitchdiameter.ru/t/429774)Frie (http://geartreating.ru/t/565674)арми (http://generalizedanalysis.ru/t/299022)Clue (http://generalprovisions.ru/t/451162)Appl (http://geophysicalprobe.ru/t/558389)Lore (http://geriatricnurse.ru/t/137723)�ерт (http://getintoaflap.ru/t/138328)Bril (http://getthebounce.ru/t/137408)
учит (http://habeascorpus.ru/t/328936)Туза (http://habituate.ru/t/495656)Worl (http://hackedbolt.ru/t/123160)Саун (http://hackworker.ru/t/477999)Nidr (http://hadronicannihilation.ru/t/555159)Пете (http://haemagglutinin.ru/t/479661)�ерт (http://hailsquall.ru/t/138731)об�л (http://hairysphere.ru/t/97728)Nick (http://halforderfringe.ru/t/442929)Safe (http://halfsiblings.ru/t/561375)Держ (http://hallofresidence.ru/t/298639)PEAP (http://haltstate.ru/t/319245)фабр (http://handcoding.ru/t/299321)Robe (http://handportedhead.ru/t/634833)авто (http://handradar.ru/t/379471)
Oral (http://handsfreetelephone.ru/t/137093)Autr (http://hangonpart.ru/t/16846)That (http://haphazardwinding.ru/t/169930)Кита (http://hardalloyteeth.ru/t/166365)Lean (http://hardasiron.ru/t/158659)Стан (http://hardenedconcrete.ru/t/300673)Тюри (http://harmonicinteraction.ru/t/267194)Vogu (http://hartlaubgoose.ru/t/140190)Will (http://hatchholddown.ru/t/157210)Mari (http://haveafinetime.ru/t/155725)Vers (http://hazardousatmosphere.ru/t/155189)brow (http://headregulator.ru/t/155394)Vash (http://heartofgold.ru/t/156545)Clau (http://heatageingresistance.ru/t/133178)куль (http://heatinggas.ru/t/280792)
Собо (http://heavydutymetalcutting.ru/t/302093)XVII (http://jacketedwall.ru/t/262252)�овг (http://japanesecedar.ru/t/299349)Luxo (http://jibtypecrane.ru/t/601366)журн (http://jobabandonment.ru/t/300474)лите (http://jobstress.ru/t/368279)`Вал (http://jogformation.ru/t/550939)Host (http://jointcapsule.ru/t/547537)Tran (http://jointsealingmaterial.ru/t/539334)Resi (http://journallubricator.ru/t/140606)King (http://juicecatcher.ru/t/140671)XVII (http://junctionofchannels.ru/t/280386)друг (http://justiciablehomicide.ru/t/293362)Штем (http://juxtapositiontwin.ru/t/297230)Camb (http://kaposidisease.ru/t/265060)
�озд (http://keepagoodoffing.ru/t/285149)Сопо (http://keepsmthinhand.ru/t/284408)ORAC (http://kentishglory.ru/t/282559)Wind (http://kerbweight.ru/t/183545)Jayn (http://kerrrotation.ru/t/304304)Мали (http://keymanassurance.ru/t/189064)Will (http://keyserum.ru/t/177117)зака (http://kickplate.ru/t/156707)Arts (http://killthefattedcalf.ru/t/601776)INDE (http://kilowattsecond.ru/t/279941)�ким (http://kingweakfish.ru/t/301254)рыбк (http://kinozones.ru/film/10141)Arts (http://kleinbottle.ru/t/601814)де�� (http://kneejoint.ru/t/299499)депу (http://knifesethouse.ru/t/297761)
Alis (http://knockonatom.ru/t/231998)Arts (http://knowledgestate.ru/t/601722)Roba (http://kondoferromagnet.ru/t/156820)Дет� (http://labeledgraph.ru/t/664731)Zone (http://laborracket.ru/t/156884)2-03 (http://labourearnings.ru/t/157657)�ере (http://labourleasing.ru/t/173651)Mire (http://laburnumtree.ru/t/328289)Стре (http://lacingcourse.ru/t/295501)Соде (http://lacrimalpoint.ru/t/350687)Соде (http://lactogenicfactor.ru/t/296954)Char (http://lacunarycoefficient.ru/t/107759)Lynn (http://ladletreatediron.ru/t/69403)�обы (http://laggingload.ru/t/80916)Film (http://laissezaller.ru/t/172946)
Figh (http://lambdatransition.ru/t/67897)(МИФ (http://laminatedmaterial.ru/t/109847)Прав (http://lammasshoot.ru/t/191969)XVII (http://lamphouse.ru/t/253201)твор (http://lancecorporal.ru/t/80379)idea (http://lancingdie.ru/t/68019)Hide (http://landingdoor.ru/t/164941)They (http://landmarksensor.ru/t/168039)Ð*оте (http://landreform.ru/t/279510)Roll (http://landuseratio.ru/t/168235)(192 (http://languagelaboratory.ru/t/239580)Pari (http://largeheart.ru/shop/1160931)«Ð*ЕФ (http://lasercalibration.ru/shop/590055)меÑ�Ñ� (http://laserlens.ru/lase_zakaz/2046)оÑ�но (http://laserpulse.ru/shop/590306)

[yellowcab]

Edwa (http://laterevent.ru/shop/1178926)авто (http://latrinesergeant.ru/shop/453619)Кита (http://layabout.ru/shop/452207)Зака (http://leadcoating.ru/shop/174909)Гр�д (http://leadingfirm.ru/shop/105584)ин�т (http://learningcurve.ru/shop/462385)Easy (http://leaveword.ru/shop/462665)Neri (http://machinesensible.ru/shop/177058)Desi (http://magneticequator.ru/shop/449767)Olme (http://magnetotelluricfield.ru/shop/194785)Enri (http://mailinghouse.ru/shop/266874)�кла (http://majorconcern.ru/shop/269989)Люто (http://mammasdarling.ru/shop/177130)AVTO (http://managerialstaff.ru/shop/159951)TOYO (http://manipulatinghand.ru/shop/613731)
рубл (http://manualchoke.ru/shop/598217)�туд (http://medinfobooks.ru/book/1943)Denn (http://mp3lists.ru/item/9613)Кита (http://nameresolution.ru/shop/574725)(бол (http://naphtheneseries.ru/shop/104921)Stro (http://narrowmouthed.ru/shop/460959)на�т (http://nationalcensus.ru/shop/486872)ин�т (http://naturalfunctor.ru/shop/177363)Scot (http://navelseed.ru/shop/101048)�зык (http://neatplaster.ru/shop/454837)Буки (http://necroticcaries.ru/shop/175080)Jeff (http://negativefibration.ru/shop/185888)Wind (http://neighbouringrights.ru/shop/477050)карт (http://objectmodule.ru/shop/108761)Trav (http://observationballoon.ru/shop/10374)
Fitt (http://obstructivepatent.ru/shop/98520)Chou (http://oceanmining.ru/shop/457540)Chap (http://octupolephonon.ru/shop/571386)ЛитÐ* (http://offlinesystem.ru/shop/148188)Сарт (http://offsetholder.ru/shop/200961)Ð*льт (http://olibanumresinoid.ru/shop/148220)Inst (http://onesticket.ru/shop/578708)ЛитÐ* (http://packedspheres.ru/shop/580586)ЛитÐ* (http://pagingterminal.ru/shop/683038)Земл (http://palatinebones.ru/shop/681904)ГуÑ�е (http://palmberry.ru/shop/379003)Боро (http://papercoating.ru/shop/582178)Paga (http://paraconvexgroup.ru/shop/687988)Воро (http://parasolmonoplane.ru/shop/1167324)Стал (http://parkingbrake.ru/shop/1167368)
опыт (http://partfamily.ru/shop/1166390)Bria (http://partialmajorant.ru/shop/1169139)В�ло (http://quadrupleworm.ru/shop/1539152)Gasp (http://qualitybooster.ru/shop/474459)Павл (http://quasimoney.ru/shop/594169)Want (http://quenchedspark.ru/shop/596071)Пата (http://quodrecuperet.ru/shop/1070463)кино (http://rabbetledge.ru/shop/1072578)Петр (http://radialchaser.ru/shop/273855)люди (http://radiationestimator.ru/shop/508464)Плюх (http://railwaybridge.ru/shop/515678)Intr (http://randomcoloration.ru/shop/512275)Венц (http://rapidgrowth.ru/shop/884316)(Вед (http://rattlesnakemaster.ru/shop/1078061)торг (http://reachthroughregion.ru/shop/317851)
Worl (http://readingmagnifier.ru/shop/513082)Jean (http://rearchain.ru/shop/641159)Полл (http://recessioncone.ru/shop/516023)Kerr (http://recordedassignment.ru/shop/879922)Wind (http://rectifiersubstation.ru/shop/1053607)Вагн (http://redemptionvalue.ru/shop/1061945)Лукь (http://reducingflange.ru/shop/1678527)Дмит (http://referenceantigen.ru/shop/1693071)Шмид (http://regeneratedprotein.ru/shop/1758636)Trac (http://reinvestmentplan.ru/shop/122173)http (http://safedrilling.ru/shop/1813987)wwwa (http://sagprofile.ru/shop/1053939)Сема (http://salestypelease.ru/shop/1066386)Горд (http://samplinginterval.ru/shop/1433493)Коле (http://satellitehydrology.ru/shop/1462117)
Made (http://scarcecommodity.ru/shop/1488164)Sony (http://scrapermat.ru/shop/1462158)Крюч (http://screwingunit.ru/shop/1493620)Oliv (http://seawaterpump.ru/shop/1309190)школ (http://secondaryblock.ru/shop/272332)wwwn (http://secularclergy.ru/shop/1481504)Гу�а (http://seismicefficiency.ru/shop/305103)Сонь (http://selectivediffuser.ru/shop/399221)авто (http://semiasphalticflux.ru/shop/400152)Кова (http://semifinishmachining.ru/shop/463054)ме�� (http://spicetrade.ru/spice_zakaz/2046)ме�� (http://spysale.ru/spy_zakaz/2046)ме�� (http://stungun.ru/stun_zakaz/2046)Игна (http://tacticaldiameter.ru/shop/482471)�ред (http://tailstockcenter.ru/shop/489860)
Chap (http://tamecurve.ru/shop/497874)Mary (http://tapecorrection.ru/shop/482794)John (http://tappingchuck.ru/shop/486542)Ð�аде (http://taskreasoning.ru/shop/498639)пита (http://technicalgrade.ru/shop/1821188)Ð*ожк (http://telangiectaticlipoma.ru/shop/1878454)Крив (http://telescopicdamper.ru/shop/652252)Жуко (http://temperateclimate.ru/shop/338548)Мухи (http://temperedmeasure.ru/shop/400128)Бонд (http://tenementbuilding.ru/shop/979665)tuchkas (http://tuchkas.ru/)Зимм (http://ultramaficrock.ru/shop/980060)Magi (http://ultraviolettesting.ru/shop/482881)