not another knife thread...

[canid]

this is one of my favorites, and a great use for an old porcelain sink. toilets work too, just don't use the inside bits...

i've gradually worked on this for about a year i think. every once in a while i just pick it back up and do or add something to it.

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/IMG_0036.jpg

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/IMG_0037.jpg

and my sgain dubh:

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/0001.jpg

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/0002.jpg

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/IMG_0003.jpg

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/IMG_0002.jpg

i did a poor job on the lettering here. i made one straight and one 1/5 circle punch, and was being assaulted by wasps while working on it. add to that that the antler was very old and pretty brittle and you can probably understand. the words are from an english translation of the Declaration of Arbroath. for my sgain dubve, it is the Scotish equivalent of 'from my cold, dead hands'. i will not be asked to remove this knife for any reason. if i am going somewhere a knife i not appropriate, i would have taken it off already.

the engraving, done with a fine burin, was filled with a mixture of wood ash and saliva. this same mixture was used to fill the lettering.

i certainly didn't make the sheath. it was given to me by a friend with a knife that has since been lost.

the blade is stainless from art pewter of Scotland.

[crashdive123]

Outstanding work.

[Rick]

Actually, I find both the lettering and the knife pretty danged cool!

[canid]

the antler was from a buck my great uncle or great grandfather took many years ago.

i know this was just shameless showing off, but come on, they're not that great. i enjoyed the heck out of making them though.

[COWBOYSURVIVAL]

Anyone who has worked with antler knows it to be the most difficult handle to make. I enjoyed the post quite alot. I am sitting working on a new blade now, no antler handle though....I will have to regain my composure after the last one before attempting another. Maybe it was because it was full tang. Maybe the next one I'll try something else. For this newest one i am using split hardwood from the backyard campfire. I have shaped the handle with only my Mora. I'll post it when it is finished. Them instructionals are alot of work!

[canid]

can't wait to see it.

no full tang on my blade, sgain dubhs tend to have cast plastic handles these days [cryin' shame] and mine had a half length tang with two indentations in the side near the end of it to serve as an anchor. i had to set it into the antler with epoxy.

[rebel]

I like your work too. How many mediums have you used to make a blade?

For those half tang blades I have welded on a little extra. If that helps?

[FVR]

Rebel,

Looks good. Great minds think alike. I just finished two flint knives and a mess of knife blades.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v171/FrankV/MVC-109S.jpg

Next project, to take the HB pioneer knife that is made for throwing but looks a little like the Hudson Bay knife, turn it into a Hudson Bay knife.


Oneday I might just get the smell of antler out of my nose.

[canid]

steel, stone, glass and porcelain.

[crashdive123]

Nice work Frank.

[FVR]

Thanks Crash.


I may have posted this before.

I one time traded an otter skin that was hit to a guy for an osage fence post and a chunk of Eng. flint.

When I told my wife, she just started to laugh.


"I don't believe that you traded Roadkill for Sticks and Stones, and you both walked away happy."

[canid]

Oneday I might just get the smell of antler out of my nose.

never happen.

[crashdive123]

The first antler handle I made......smelled like I was in a dentist office for about a week.

[FVR]

LOL........

I used a rotary hand grinder on an elk antler last week, elect., antler, burnt antler.....ewwwwwwww.

Stuck the grinder in the truck, not mine.........LOL.........I know I'm going to get a few comments.

[COWBOYSURVIVAL]

filling the room with smoke of hardwood now! smells a little better than antler, kinda asphyxiating...not sure if that is spelled right...but it'll have to do.. Nice work Canid and FVR..I am listening and learning and pretty proud of my teachers!

[panch0]

Great job Candid and FVR. I love primitive knives. I wish I had time to try my hand at one of those and a bow. I have a piece of antler, a blade with a thin hidden tang, but am afraid that the deer antler is not strong enough for say cutting thick fuzz sticks. They look very sturdy and well made and look like they could cut very well. My hats off to you two gentlemen, you are both very talented. I would definetly want to be in your clan should SHTF.

[canid]

new handle i'm working on. i have too many crappy stainless knives with cast plastic handles. some of them have blades worth using.

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/Antler_Handle_Stainless01.jpg

[crashdive123]

That looks like it will be great when you are done.

I picked up some alligator bones and jawbones this past week end that look like the will make some pretty good handles. Guess I've got to start whittling down the project list.

[canid]

you're going to start whittling too..? man you're going to be one busy cat.

[crashdive123]

Gotta finish Rebel Chick's knife. Then there's a project for Old Soldier, involving paracord. Then there's the five rusty cast iron pans (free) that I need to bring back to life. Got most of the parts I need for a new forge I want to make. Then there's..........

Oh yeah, gotta work in there from time to time as well.

[canid]

i built my forge at the beginning of the dry season and move before the wet season came back. now i'll have to make one of those clay insulated barbecue types.

i now live once more in a residential area where you can only burn in a bbq and only a few days per month.

[nell67]

Thanks Crash.


I may have posted this before.

I one time traded an otter skin that was hit to a guy for an osage fence post and a chunk of Eng. flint.

When I told my wife, she just started to laugh.


"I don't believe that you traded Roadkill for Sticks and Stones, and you both walked away happy."
Frank,I think you need to add that quote as part of your signature!

[canid]

i agree with nell here.

[crashdive123]

Yep. That would make a great signature line.

[canid]

this is a drop point skinner neck knife i'm starting soon [as soon as i can borrow my buddy's Dremel]:

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/neckknife.jpg

i'll probably reposition it on the steel i've drawn it out onto, to maximize the size of the scrap i have left over for something like broadhead points. the piece is about 4" overall length.

[panch0]

Looks very handy, I like the design.

[crashdive123]

Canid - we must think alike. I drew this up about 10 minutes before you posted.

http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii67/crashdive123/Knife%20Making/SkinnerKnife001.jpg

[canid]

i have no idea what kind of steel it is. it was a small piece of plate i found on the side of a rural road. it' was around the same place i found the nice piece of leaf spring i've got standing by for a parang when i'm ready.

[COWBOYSURVIVAL]

I like it too! How thick is the plate? I like the design hinged on 2 fingers! Sweet design!

[canid]

nice crash. best of luck on it, though you won't need it, and wish me the same.

[canid]

it's about 1/8" i believe, but i haven't got my caliper handy.

[crashdive123]

I'm sure yours will turn out great. As far as luck goes, I've found it is just better to have spare steel for when I mess up.

[panch0]

I can't wait to see these when they are done. It is cool how you can see each knifemakers personal style when making knives. I guess thats why makers love to share with each other.

[crashdive123]

Speaking of --- I found a knife making club in town that I'll be checking out.

[panch0]

They never have cool stuff like that around here. I know of two other knifemakers around here. One is an hour away and the other is 45 minutes away.

[COWBOYSURVIVAL]

I'd say there are very few with similar interests to mine around here as well. Guess that is why I like the forum cause I sure hate typin'

[crashdive123]

They never have cool stuff like that around here. I know of two other knifemakers around here. One is an hour away and the other is 45 minutes away.

When I was picking up some leather, the shop owner told me about them. They meet once a month at a loccal Gander Mountain. One (or maybe two) of the guys lets the members come over and use his shop, all the while giving tips. I am looking forward to meeting this group.

[canid]

i bet; it sound's promising.

[panch0]

There is nothing like watching it in person. It will greatly improve the learning curb. I had alot of help from Don Robinson of Brownsville, TX When I was making a mistake he let me know and didn't sugar coat it either.

[preachtheWORD]

My Dad has knapped porcelain from an old toilet lid. Actually comparatively easy to work.

He calls it "johnstone"

I always get a kick out of that

[canid]

it's easy to work if you don't want a sharp, durable edge.

i actually find obsidian and glass easier.

[canid]

neck knife progress:

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/neckkniferough.jpg

i've roughed it out, aside from the loop, which will come soon [don't have the tooling for it at present, but i can borrow].

i have started the blade bevel. and began rounding the edges.

soon, i'll have to harden and temper, then slowly wet-grind the final blade bevel and sand. i can't polish it yet either, but that will come soon enough.

this won't be a knife to brag about, but that's alright by me.

[crashdive123]

Nice progress. I like it.

[COWBOYSURVIVAL]

Looks great Canid, I can't wait to see it finished. I like the size of it. I haven't gotten down to small knives yet. Still trying to put away the machete' I'd also like to see the sheath.

[canid]

i'm waiting on the establishment of a new forge or furnace before i get to work on the leafspring i have. it's got parang written all over it.

[Rick]

I can see it now. Sharpened blade at the drill press making the hole. Drill sticks in metal. Knife become spinning blade of death!!!!!

Just kidding (I hope). It's going to look great when you're done!

[canid]

i'm trying now to decide on whether i will proceed with the finger loop, or make a bulbous wood scale handle.

after feeling it in my hand, it fits great as is, without a finger loop.

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/Picture004.jpg

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/Picture003.jpg

as for the spinning blade of death, i've already got enough of them.

[WgS]

Canid,

I finally found these pics. Amazing! Absolutely amazing.


FVR,

I enjoyed your pics too.

Thank you both for sharing them.

Hugs,
Canid's mom

[canid]

well i've got the knife hardened and tempered. i don't know how well the temper worked out, but it doesn't seem to chip on the blade readily [i'm sure i could, but i don't need to try that hard]

i have yet to see how durable the edge is, but it's had it's first real sharpening and i can shave a clean swath down my arm with it.

it got a fine sanding followed by a preliminary polishing, but i need a polishing wheel; it's a lot of work by hand.

i roughed out some cherry scales. i'm going to make a relatively slim bulbous scale handle for it. i still have to drill out two rivet holes, and it may be worth my while to soften the tang for that, though i don't know, i do have some carbide bits.

i'll probably update with pictures soon, with any new information and finally with the handle when it's done. i don't have the leather for a sheath yet, but i have an idea in mind.

[canid]

almost forgot, i heated the blade for hardening by blowing into an oak wood fire with a troll pole [length of tubing for directing air into a fire to accellerate burning, like a manual bellows].

it took my breath away. seriously, i almost passed out by the time it was up to temp.

[crashdive123]

I've seen that method used before with two people tag teaming, so as to not pass out. Looking forward to seeing the new pics.

[canid]

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/neckknifebladealmostfinished01.jpg

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/neckknifebladealmostfinished02.jpg

[crashdive123]

That would make a nice little companion knife it you could stitch an additional sheath to the outside of the existing one.

[canid]

it would, though so far i have a neck sheath in mind for this one.

as you could imagine, it won't take much leather for the sheath either way, i just need to get ahold of some.

[COWBOYSURVIVAL]

Looks great! looking forward to the neck knife sheath!

[canid]

i'm half ready to cannibalize the leather from my saddle-bags. i with i still had my synthetic pair handy.

[crashdive123]

If you've got a cobbler or some other craftsman that works with leather you might be able to pick up some free scraps.

[canid]

that just might be the best idea i never had.

[crashdive123]

A while back at a garage sale, I saw, but did not get an old pair of all leather combat boots. They were fifty cents - might have been able to get a couple of small sheaths out of something like that.

[Rick]

And, of course, Goodwill or some other thrift store might have a pair of leather boots for very little.

The knife is coming along very well!

[panch0]

That knife looks like it will be very handy. Nice job!

[canid]

i haven't got a power drill to make the rivet holes so this knife is on hold for now.

next, i'm shaping out some new proper kitchen knives.

[Rick]

Hey Canid. I picked up a Craftsman 19v drill at Goodwill minus the battery charger. Came home and ordered the battery charger from Sears and wound up with a really nice drill for about half the cost of a new one. You might try a pawn shop. Of course, the guys at the pawn shops generally know the price of a tool.

[canid]

the pawn shops here tend to ask about 125% of retail for anything that more than half works.

i've got the blade roughed out for the first kitchen knife, and a handle i may or may not like.

[NightShade]

there are hardware stores around me that will rent powertools for real short change... might be an avenue worth lookin into

[canid]

i haven't had $10 that wasn't already earmarked in a long time. i do have friends with more tools than i.

[canid]

pictures:

blade is roughed out, and bevel of blade edge is ground in, but blunted to prevent scorching during heat treatment. the stock was a cheap steel machete, with black powder coating. i sanded to remove the coating.
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/rough_closeup.jpg

i have roughed out a handle, but i'm not sold on it's profile yet. the blade is still not heat treated yet, and the handle is dry fit.
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/dry_fit_un-hardened_01.jpg
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/dry_fit_un-hardened_02.jpg

[crashdive123]

Looks like it would be a welcome addition to any kitchen or field cook kit.

[canid]

i think i'll take the spur on the base of the grip down a bit, so it's less pronounced. it's comfortable in the hand, but i'm not sold on the aesthetic.

i kind of like the texture and finish left by the orbital sander. i'm going to buff it as smooth as may be, to keep it from tarnishing too much, but otherwise, i will try to keep it.

i'm going to try something iffy with this after it's heat treated:

weak acid etching. tannin seems to be particularly nasty to carbon steel, given it's weak acidity. i'm going to make a strong tea of tanin rich bark and see if it'll work. i'm dubious, but i don't think it'll hurt and it might just work.

[crashdive123]

Looking forward to seeing the progress.

[NightShade]

i think i'll take the spur on the base of the grip down a bit, so it's less pronounced. it's comfortable in the hand, but i'm not sold on the aesthetic.

i kind of like the texture and finish left by the orbital sander. i'm going to buff it as smooth as may be, to keep it from tarnishing too much, but otherwise, i will try to keep it.

i'm going to try something iffy with this after it's heat treated:

weak acid etching. tannin seems to be particularly nasty to carbon steel, given it's weak acidity. i'm going to make a strong tea of tanin rich bark and see if it'll work. i'm dubious, but i don't think it'll hurt and it might just work.

That's interesting.. I'm curious to see how the etching works out...keep us updated!!

[canid]

me too. i have serious doubts, to be sure, but i can't wait to gibe a try.

[WgS]

we're getting rid of everything in storage in the next couple of weeks. i'll send whatever tools and useful things I find down with your uncle.

[canid]

oh, ok. however it works out.

[canid]

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/knivesgroup11-05-2009.jpg

here are the skinner, two of the kitchen knives and a couple broadheads.

they are ready to be polished up a bit [to bring the surface a tad closer to the low spots, and round the edges. it seems this will reduce scorching/tarnish when i heat treat.

after this comes the heat treatment, which i've been putting off to work in the garden.

i plan to heat treat the skinner again, because i re-ground the bevel on one side to remove some bulk and it got too hot in the process [carelessness on my part].

the broadheads where fun, and quick to make. they overheat quickly on the grinder, and i bet i could get the grinding and heating done in one move, then quench immediately. i keep cooling water next to the grinder anyway.

[canid]

some more work on the handle aswell.

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/cleaverhandle.jpg

this is the handle for the cleaver, and i plan to do the other kitchen knife in a similar fashion, but contoured better for more of a sideways grip, since it will be used for slicing as much as chopping.

[crashdive123]

They're coming along nicely. As usual, well done.

[canid]

thank you; i'm under no delusions, some of my work is half #$%ed, but i'm having a great time and it looks like i'll come out with perfectly serviceable tools.

after all of this feels smooth to me, i'll move onto aesthetics, reducing imperfections and streamlining my work for efficiency and quality.

i absolutely love learning to do these things.

[crashdive123]

The mark of a good tool is one that is able to accomplish the job at hand. The art, as in you bows will come in time.

[canid]

i've got a pot on the stove and i'm attempting the etching with a strong tea of ash leaves. they are pretty bitter, so they seemed a good candidate.

if this doesn't work i'll try it again, but will also try etching in warm cola.

[crashdive123]

Looking forward to seeing how it turns out.

[canid]

neck knife has scale handle now. it is still awaiting pins, a final finish and polishing.

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/IMG_0030.jpg

[crashdive123]

Looks great!

[Rick]

I like it. It's sort of a modified Ulu. Yep, that's pretty cool.

[panch0]

Nice! Looks like a handy little bugger.

[klkak]

To bad its a left handed knife or I'd have you send it to me.

[Rick]

Well, okay then. Right handed it is.

[canid]

is that like a left handed metric screwdriver (http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=21)?

[canid]

working on a wooden sheath for the skinner:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/IMG_0043.jpg

and a handle for this blade. it's actually almost finished now; the picture is from earlier:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/IMG_0042.jpg

[crashdive123]

Saweeeeeeeeeet!

[canid]

the pieces for the walls of the sheath where drawn out by tracing the blade onto the wood with a few MM of a lip around it. the spacers where made by tracing the side of the blade exactly, and sanding down to the inside of the curve, then danding it down to a more or less even width of a few mm.

the second wall of the sheath is gluing up now:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/IMG_0044.jpg

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/IMG_0046.jpg

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/IMG_0047.jpg

the edges will be sanded to a nice curve or chamfer , and the walls themselves probably to a slight taper as well, to give it a nicer form.

i'm going to round off the tops of the handle scales, and then add a tab with a matching concave curve at the top of the sheath for them to fit into.

i'm trying to decide if i want to do this with antler or another material. i might try to find some dark horn. they have to be something slightly elastic so they will hold the the blade in with a little pressure. i'll see what i can come up with for that.

i have not yet decided how to want to attach a lanyard for neck wear.

[canid]

lest i forget: the handle and sheath are cherry.

[COWBOYSURVIVAL]

Looks great Canid! A thought for the wooden sheath. Formby's rotten wood stabilizer. Obviously your wood isn't rotten but, a dip in the above will make it stone hard I love the stuff. A little pricy though, it would go a long way with moisture protection. I use it on old boat transoms.

[canid]

i'll give it a try if i get the chance. i'll probably be using polyurethane, inside and out, since it's what i'm using on the handle.

[Rick]

Very nice. Looking forward to the completed sheath!!

[panch0]

I want to see that sheath also. Great idea BTW!

[canid]

update on the sheath:

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/IMG_0048.jpg

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/IMG_0050.jpg

i proceeded to fine sand and carefully finish it, only to drop it into a pile of sawdust and steel shavings while the finish was still tacky.

next i get to wait for that to cure and then redo it. i guess it's not the worst thing in the world, but dang it it feels like it when it happens. oh well, i needed to re-finish the handle anyway.

[crashdive123]

Very nice. I like it.

[canid]

here's a projection to illustrate:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/skinnerprojection.jpg

with the black in polished horn, like this if i can get ahold of some:
http://www.cmsfrench.com/images/PK7.JPG
[second image stolen from elsewhere on the net]

[panch0]

Cool little sheath candid. Are you going to use dog tag chains and drill a hole in the bottom. Also how will the knife be held in? I ask cause I really like the idea and may try it whenever I make a small neck knife myself. Thanks.

[canid]

my plan is to have the slot at the sheath's mouth slightly thinner than the blade, with the horn [or which ever material i end up suing] left just thin enough that it can flex. this will keep pressure on the sides of the blade where it meets the handle. that surface will probably then be rubberized for increased friction. i think this will work, if also require upkeep. otherwise, it will have to have a snap closure of some sort.

as for attachment, i haven't made up my mind yet. it will be suspended from the tip end of the sheath.

[canid]

i *know* i can pull that idea off, but i'm only pretty sure i can do it the first time.

i'm still tossing other ideas around.

soon i'll have some more steel.

[canid]

I haven't taken any pictures, but i've started on a small forge for heat treating small blades.

I took a large coffee can and filled it 2/3 full of a mixture of clay rich soil and sand, and wet it. i mixed this with a hand trowl, by twirling around the sides, making sure to scrape the bottom and sides fully. once it was well mixed, I pressed a small coffee can into the center of it. the small can allows about 2 inches of clay mixture around the sides all the way around, and about the same between it's bottom and the bottom of the outer can.

this creates a small metal can inside a larger one, with two inches or so of clay insulation between. This will be left to dry for probably several weeks, and then I will put a hole through the bottom for forced air, and fire it.

The next time i try to make one of these, i think I'll use a large paint can and a large coffee can, to give a somewhat larger forge, but I will first place a steel pipe along the bottom with an elbow fitting centered in it, pointed upwards to join the bottom of the inner can, so to create an internal air line, with the inlet sticking out the side near the bottom.

[canid]

I've settled on some scrap walnut for the upper portion of the sheath. I wanted to get back to work on it more than hold out for some horn.

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/IMG_0051.jpg

[canid]

more work on the sheath:

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/sheathwithwalnut01.jpg

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/sheathwithwalnut02.jpg

all the finish is going to be sanded off [i've gotten a good start] and the finish will be redone indoors, hoping i don't mess it up again.

i will be cutting the mouth of the sheath out of the walnut with a dremel cutoff wheel, so i have to wait til i can get some more of those.

[canid]

yep; more knife stuff.

i decided to handle the chef's knife blade first, rather than the cleaver, because i wanted to use it soon. the finish on the blade isn't great, but i did finish it with a coating of epoxy, to help protect it:

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/IMG_0052.jpg

[crashdive123]

Great work - as always.

[COWBOYSURVIVAL]

Looks great Canid!

[Rick]

Very nice. I do like that. Always nice to make something return to a useful life.

[canid]

more work done, i've cut out the slot for the sheath's mouth:

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/sheathslotcut01.jpg

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/sheathslotcut02.jpg

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/sheathslotcut03.jpg

it's about time to sand the curves to a closer fit and sand all joints flush. after that comes refinishing.

[pocomoonskyeyes]

Awesome job Canid!! Looking better and better!!

[Geronimo!]

Good job Canid. Looks like that knife will serve you well.

[crashdive123]

It sure is purdy. Very impressive wood work - just as with your bows.

[Rick]

Man! How nice is that?! Great work.

[canid]

i'm now working on a fixed blade from a junked folding knife blade:

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/IMG_0094.jpg

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/IMG_0095.jpg

i ground the base down to a barbed push tang, and set it into the handle with epoxy. it's not the strongest hafting in the world, but this was the style of my sgain dubh blade, and since i've rehandles it it takes quite a lot of stress with no problems.

like the sgain dubh, the handle is mulie antler and Padauk. i love the wood. it smells reminiscent of cinnamon and vanillins when you cut into it.

[crashdive123]

Outstanding work. I love the look of the wood attached to the antler.

[canid]

i wish i could find a better UV protectant light finish.

this wood darkens significantly with UV exposure, and it happens pretty quickly. it obscures the beautiful figure of the grain, which is fine and subtle.

[canid]

nearly finished another:

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/antler-walnuthunter_left.jpg

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/antler-walnuthunter_right.jpg

Antler handle with black walnut pommel and billet aluminum bolster/guard.

blade is an unknown knife steel and is extremely hard. barbed push tang set in epoxy.

i could clean the grinding up much better with some draw filing, but new files are still on my wishlist.

i plan to checker the handle, but i'm going to wait until i am better at it. i have plans to make a checkering tool with an offset guide, to follow in the groove of the previous line, either for scoring, or for the cutting the checker itself. that should be pretty straightforward.

[crashdive123]

Looks great! Very nice work.

[hunter63]

Very nice, thank for the pic's!

[Rick]

You are coming right along as well. Very nice.

[canid]

i'm putting a local ad out for antler, and for certain steels in exchange for hand made knives.

i hope it pans out. i still have several knives to make from this mule deer rack. it was a deer taken by either my great uncle or my great grandfather, and i plan to make knives for several family members from it. i need to make sure i keep enough for that purpose.

[Rick]

Why don't you touch base with processing plants that handle deer? I'm sure the big ones are saved for racks but the small stuff might be tossed since they see so much of it. They might just give you broken or smaller antlers. If they do other animals you might be able to get some horn, too.

[canid]

you're right, as usual. that's a fine idea.

[hunter63]

I'll look around in my "stash", might have some antlers big enough to make something out of.
Gonna be a couple of days or so, gonna be busy.
I'll get back to you.
I pick up a bunch as sheds and also always keep my eyes pealed at yard sales and such.

[crashdive123]

Canid - I'm going to take the next knife I make back to the guy with the huge sawmill blades to try and work a trade. If I'm successful, I'll send you some steel if you're interested.

[canid]

i'm definitely interested. i'm still out of work and have been for far too long, so i haven't been able to buy much or mail anything for some time.

[Rick]

I just did a check on Craig's List for Indy and there were five antler offerings. None were free but a couple were pretty cheap. Might be worth a shot in your area.

[canid]

no such luck. indiana and central california are quite different places, culturally speaking. i don't think people around here truly value deer the way i do.

[Rick]

indiana and central california are quite different places, culturally speaking.

That may make the 2009 understatement of the year for LIFE magazine. Stacking Arnold beside Mitch would be like comparing Mutt and Jeff.

Arnold: "I'll be back"
Mitch: "Okay. Come armed and have money. We don't take credit."

[panch0]

Great job Candid. You seem to have been very busy.

[canid]

give california a break; most of these people thought they where actually voting for the terminator.

[canid]

today i recieved two nice pieces of sawblade steel from crash.

i've drawn out profiles for 4 blades from them. i would have liked to make 2 of them smaller because i was hoping to have a strip leftover on one the the pieces wide enough for a small drawknife blade, but as it stands, there is material for one medium sized drop point hunting knife blade, and 3 similar blades of equal size, but smaller than the first. with this layout, there is very little waste. i'll put up some pics when i cut them out.

[canid]

update; making my second hard sheath.

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/IMG_0133.jpg

i actually scavenged the walnut from the last bow i broke. i'm going to add some antler, and make a leather frog for it before all is said and done.

[canid]

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/IMG_0134.jpg

the antler i cut out for the sheath did not turn out great, but i'll see if i can fix it.

[crashdive123]

It's looking great so far.

[Rick]

Canid, you really do fine work. I like those. A couple of things I did when I put together the wooden sheath for my machete and my Ghurka was to seal the inside with Thompson's Water Seal. I was afraid moisture or water would get inside and either impact the sheath or cause rust or both. I also placed a small hole in the bottom of the sheaths so water could drain if it gets inside. Granted, they are much larger than the sheaths you are making but I thought it might be something to think about since I assume you intend these as users.

[canid]

this is a very rough draft outline for blanks from the saw blade steel crash sent me:

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/IMG_0148.jpg

i'll refine them pretty soon, but i've yet to even cut the steel. i wish to heck i'd bought that 19tpi bi-metal blade for my bandsaw when i had the chance.

[canid]

instead of doing the three smaller knives identical, i figured the shape of that second piece lent itself to a santoku type blade pretty well. we'll see if i stick with it.

[canid]

refined design and cut out templates:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/IMG_0150.jpg

these have not been traced onto the stock. when i can cut them out i'll bench grind them to profile, grind the rough bevels and file them mostly to spec. before final heat treatment.

[crashdive123]

I like the designs that you came up with.

[canid]

i agree a drainage hole will be a good idea. i'm also thinking of a soft liner.

the wood interior is sealed with polyurethane sealant.

[canid]

this saw blade stock is tough cutting by hand, even after i annealed it.

i don't know if i'll get around to it until i can buy that blade for my bandsaw.

i guess i could do it with a cut-off wheel if i can borrow the dremel again.

[crashdive123]

Canid - my first attempt at annealing it failed (that's why there were no pins in it). My second attempt seems to have worked. I anneal mine in a chiminea (little outdoor fire place). First try (failed) I got a good bed of coals, put the knives in, got a good fire above until they were glowing cherry red then let the fire die down. My successful attempt was the same method, but kept the fire going for about six hours before letting it die down. A blacksmith told me that I would need 6 to 8 hours to soften them. Seems to have worked.

[canid]

yeah, after trying to anneal with air cooling, it seems this steel air hardens a bit. that would explain the continued difficulty in cutting it.

i plan to make some smithing tools, including a rr spike hot chisel, so maybe i'll try to hot cut the stuff.

i've been doing a LOT of research in blacksmithing lately, and i'm trying to get some things together to start learning to make forged blades. i'm currently reading The Blacksmith's Craft, published by the Rural Development Commission of Wiltshire, England, and The Master Bladesmith by Jim Hrisoulas, the owner of Salimander Armoury, and from what i can tell, an extremely talented smith.

i still need to acquire some type of anvil or anvil material, and some other things to do even basic work. i have a friend who said he thinks he has an anvil, but i haven't heard back.

[crashdive123]

I picked up a 75 lb anvil last week. On the steel for those blades, I was at the gentlemans workshop today getting another lesson and he said it is most likely L6.

[Rick]

I picked up a 75 lb anvil last week.

Are you bragging? I could pick up one that heavy too......with my two wheeler. :innocent:

[Batch]

Harbor Freight has a 55lb anvil for $60.

[Camp10]

Canid - my first attempt at annealing it failed (that's why there were no pins in it). My second attempt seems to have worked. I anneal mine in a chiminea (little outdoor fire place). First try (failed) I got a good bed of coals, put the knives in, got a good fire above until they were glowing cherry red then let the fire die down. My successful attempt was the same method, but kept the fire going for about six hours before letting it die down. A blacksmith told me that I would need 6 to 8 hours to soften them. Seems to have worked.

The longer you keep a steel at non-magnetic, the more carbon you loose. My method to anneal is to heat an old window weight (those cast iron bullet shaped things you have saved because "there must be a use to these") until it is dull red in most spots and stick it in a metal bucket full of vermiculite. I will then heat my blade steel to non-magnetic and get it into the bucket near the weight and leave it for several hours. If it is a plain steel, this will work and keep the carbon loss down.

[crashdive123]

Thanks for the tip.

[Rick]

Is the vermiculite just an insulation?

[Camp10]

Is the vermiculite just an insulation?

Yes. It keeps the steel cooling at a slow but constant rate and this is what soften the steel.

[Rick]

Thanks. I was leaning that way I just wanted to make certain there wasn't something in the vermiculite that added to the process.

[canid]

it's about time, with with my new steel sawing capabilities, i roughed out the blade for one of the drop point hunters i'm planning from crash's L-6.

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/4in-hunter-01.jpg

don't adjust your set; keeping a consistent bevel on a compound curve like this is hard. quite possibly beyond my skill.

[canid]

i don't know what it is with me and curvy blades. this one isn't even all that practical, though i must say it has sex appeal.

as i said further back in this thread, the curves should probably be toned down a bit. i'll probably try to strike a good balance between this, and a tasteful suggestion of this curvature.

Hunter: if i can pull it off as i intend, some more of your antler is going to good use on these knives in concert with padauk and some cherry or maple in my first attempt at a nice puukko handle style. something like this:

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3167/2872473503_13ded50fd2.jpg

but probably with much less class [i don't have any figured hardwood].

i have a 16-18" or so round of walnut that's been seasoning, sealed for over a year now, which has nicer figure, but is probablydarker than i want. i'll see what i can scrounge up in the way of pretty, light colored hardwood.

[crashdive123]

Woo Hoo - more knife porn! Looking good.

[canid]

i've still gotta round up some brass flat stock. it would be too handy not to try and get a supply on hand.

i'll be at the home despot today anyway, i might as well see what they happen to have.

[canid]

here's the scheme for the handle:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/img_0222.jpg
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/img_0221.jpg

i want to put some brass at either end before all is said and done, but it's antler, padauk, ash, padauk, antler.

[Camp10]

That looks great! I really like the looks of this knife!

[Rick]

The orange accent is really going to be striking on that. Very nice.

[canid]

unfortunately, it's going to darken, and loose distinction in the figure quite a bit. i have not yet found anything in a clear finish that blocks UV quite well enough for Padauk.

it'll settle out somewhere in the neighborhood of a nice burgundy eventually.

[crashdive123]

Outstanding. Looking forward to the finished product.

[canid]

i just cut out the blank for the santoku:

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/blank01.jpg

its 8" overall, 4" blade by 1 3/8" wide.

[canid]

here's a rough view of the handle for the hunter:

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/handle-rough.jpg

[Ted]

Sweet! Really like the blade too! Can't wait to see the finished product!

[canid]

here's how the handle on the hunter is comming along:

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/img_0225.jpg

and the blade of the santoku. i'm working on the taper:

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/img_0228.jpg

[crashdive123]

Looking really great.

[canid]

i've got the santoku much further along. the taper is dramatically improved, and the weight is now approaching something reasonable. filing notches by hand is harder than it looks. i'm going to have to spend a while evening them out:

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/img_0231.jpg
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/img_0232.jpg

[welderguy]

Thats looking good.

[crashdive123]

Nice work. I've found that doing anything on these old saw mill blades by hand is pretty tough.

[canid]

i sealed the handles yesterday with some polyurethane sealant, and i'm annoyed that it's still tacky. i can understand it taking longer to dry on the purpleheart, but the hunter should be dry now.

i'm tempted to apply gentle heat. maybe i'm just impatient.

speaking of the L-6, i think it would be the perfect material, and thickness for a kukri like the one i've been working on. have you ever tried one crash?

[standingbear]

nice looking blades there, keep up the work.
I need to get my belt grinder finished so i also dabble in making a few blades i have drawn up, iuts been a few years since my last one.:tongue_smilie:

[Rick]

Make certain you use an outdoor polyurethane. I've found thin coats with light sanding in between to build up the sealer is much better than one heavy coat. It generally dries in well under 24 hours, too.

[canid]

i've just been using a cheap ryobi 4x36" bench top belt sander; one of those combo deals with the 6" disk as well.

so far, it works great, though the drive belt it came with saw a piece of junk, the replacement was only a couple bucks.

[canid]

the stuff i'm using is poly shades. you have to do it in one heavy coat.

so far, it works great, though i've been putting on a top coat or 6 of varathane.

[crashdive123]

i sealed the handles yesterday with some polyurethane sealant, and i'm annoyed that it's still tacky. i can understand it taking longer to dry on the purpleheart, but the hunter should be dry now.

i'm tempted to apply gentle heat. maybe i'm just impatient.

speaking of the L-6, i think it would be the perfect material, and thickness for a kukri like the one i've been working on. have you ever tried one crash?

I'm working on a couple of bigger blades now, but not a kukri style. Do you use the 6" wheel for much ginding -I'll bet you can do a nice flat grind on it.

[canid]

i mostly save the 6" disks for wood. steel wears abrasive paper/cloth so quickly that i don't find it worth while, considering that belts are cheaper than disks in terms of surface area.

[canid]

i think tomorrow's project will be making a wooden mold to press a sheath for the hunter.

i'm on the verge of tears as we speak; i decided to canibalize my saddlebags for knife sheaths.

i got them on sale, and at today's prices, there's just about $50 worth of leather in them anyway.

[canid]

you know, i tried it, and the 6" disk is great for flat grinds if you keep the blade side at the top of the disk. because the disk moves faster at the outside, it grinds faster toward the blade side. it also gets hot fast, and the blade has to be cooled very often.

[crashdive123]

I'm going to build a circular flat grinder. I've tried a couple of homemade jobs and they were fantastic. One had a rheostat to control speed a switch to change direction, the other had two discs that rotated in opposite directions.

[canid]

the disks get a bit expensive, but i have to say i'm impressed. i finished the flat grind on the santoku in about 5 min. and i tapered out the hunter a bit.

[crashdive123]

Think - sandpaper and contact cement, then trim with scissors. When it comes time to change it out - hair dryer and putty knife. Kind of a PITA, but a heck of a lot cheaper.

[canid]

i overheated a disk on my sander a while back. the adhesive set up really hard, so the paper came off, leaving the gunk behind. i ended up having to use a chisel against the wheel with the motor on to scrape it all off.

[crashdive123]

I had a simialr experience. After I removed what I could, I turned it on and used a piece of 50 grit paper (in a gloved hand) and applied very light pressure. I came off pretty easily.

[canid]

oh, nice.

i had a heck of a time getting the gunk off of mine, and new disks wouldn't adhere to it until i got it completely clean.

[canid]

i'm a day behind, but today i made a wooden mold from some scrap i had laying around.

i traced the blade shape out on a scrap of one of the cherry lams i use for the bows. this is just a bit thicker than the blade; thick enough to be sturdy in the mold i believe.

after tracing it out, i rough cut it and then sanded it to profile, then beveled it, in an approximation of the grind of the blade.

next, i traced the blade out on a block of white oak scrap, and then scored along the lines with a knife. i used a chisel to carve out the shape of the blade, to a depth a little deeper than the blade is thick, to accomodate the leather for the front panel of the sheath. next time, i use a softer wood. this oak is a pain to carve.

i cut out a rectangle of leather a bit larger than the finished front panel will be, and soaked it in warm water for a while. next, i worked it by hand to soften it up a tad, and make it more pliable. this will allow better penetration of the water.

i am heating the water on the stove top, and will remove the leather once it has sat near a simmer for a few min.

next, i will place it over the female die [the wooden mold i carved out] and place the male die [the blade shaped piece] over the top, centered properly, and then clamp it firmly into place.

the back panel is already cut roughly to shape, and when the front piece is cooled, the two will be fitted together, holes punched, and the two stitched together.

after that, i will form the loop, punch, stitch and proceed to trim it to shape, then burnish smooth again. if i can install a couple rivets, i will.

the next sheath i try will be one of the side seam type.

[canid]

i only half know what i'm doing here, so this will be fun.

[canid]

well, i definitely didn't anticipate this much shrinkage. i don't think i needed to harden the leather at all, as thick as it is. i may have to start over with a new front panel piece.

[canid]

here is the sheath i made, as well as a frog for one of the other knives, for my friend nick.

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/sheaths.jpg

i wish the molding showed more definition, but i think i softened the leather too much. it stretched, but it's now very soft and pliant, even after drying. i also should have trimmed the leather better before stitching.

[Ted]

Looks great man! You are one talented dude!

[canid]

thanks ted. i know i'm going to come to regret sacrificing my saddlebags, but honestly i'd like some nicer ones anyway. i have long term plans to design and make some composite hard-bags. that would be the height of slickness.

[Ted]

thanks ted. i know i'm going to come to regret sacrificing my saddlebags, but honestly i'd like some nicer ones anyway. i have long term plans to design and make some composite hard-bags. that would be the height of slickness.

Bro, you get any slicker you could slide under a door!....LOL!

[crashdive123]

Looking good. Are you adding straps (almost said thongs) to secure the knives in their sheaths?

[canid]

i'm thinking about it, yeah.

[canid]

well, i've got more than a few in the half done to mostly done range, but here are two more. these are the last two from the steel crash sent me:

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/couple_more-02.jpg
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/couple_more-01.jpg

i opted not to make a second of the 4" wavy hunter, so i free-handed one i really like the feel of. i guess it's kind of a nessie.

the large one will probably get a handle just like the original, it's just larger.

[crashdive123]

Nice. Me likey.

[welderguy]

Nice stuff there canid.

[Ted]

Looking good as usual!

[canid]

one knife i've always wanted to make is a leverletto. that's an itallian stiletto style automatic knife with a lever release, instead of the push button.

because automatic knives are not legal here, i want to make one which has no spring. if i can make certain that this would prevent it from being considered an automatic knife [it would still have to be opened manually, and the lock would serve only to lock it closed, and lock it open], then i'll get started on it. i absolutely love classic switchblade knives, and i used to own a functioning one that was very nice.

here's a picture to show what i'm talking about:

http://billdeshivs.com/bd/images/leverletto1.jpg

i have two panels of that pronghorn hunter sent me which would probably be well suited for scales.

[canid]

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/img_0242.jpg

blam!

[Rick]

Very nice. How do the square edges on the handle fit your hand? I like the character of the blade!

[crashdive123]

Very nice! I like the look with the pitting.

[canid]

thanks rick. the edges are only square [well, finely radiused] on the top, and it's actually quite comfortable.

i liked the handle aesthetically, but i wasn't sold on it til i felt it in my hand.

thanks crash. i noticed that the pitting on this piece went deeper than on the first, so naturally, i kept more of it intact. i'll get more pictures later, you can see on the other side that it even shows still on two places in the blade bevel.

i tried a vinegar patina [almost 3 hours at room temp] on one piece and i notice this steel is quite stain resistant.

i've still got a few things to do with this blade. i need to do the finishing on all the flats [as well as fix a few of them; you can see the two different grinds on the false edge along the back if you look]. i've got to even out the bevels on the water stone, fix the spot where the wood is sanded down to the tang and probably lastly, to apply a few coats of spar and wet sand to 1500.

[canid]

i slapped myself around for about half an hour this morning, after learning an important lesson which should have been self evident:

don't fall asleep with acid on a blade. i didn't ruin it, but i did create myself another couple to several hours of work, and made the pitting on the blade 3-4x deeper. if this steel had not had any corrosion to begin with, it would actually just be a beautiful, dark patina with an attractive blued look. instead, it's an irregular pattern of that look, red rust and blackened pitted areas, themselves surrounded by red rust.

the rust cleans off easily enough, but will return any time the pitted areas hold moisture again. this blade will have to be kept oiled between use.

[canid]

i did make an important realization:

while i've heard a few knifemakers recommend using a wrap of vinegar soaked paper, instead of immersion for forcing a patina, which is certainly useful for doing the proceedure on blades which have already been fitted with a handle; it occurs to me that this is actually a stronger etch. as the vinegar evaporates from the paper, it's acidity rises as acetic acid evaporates at a higher temperature than water [it is actually solid below 62f].

this should make the proceedure more effective for staining higher chromium alloys, if also making it more corrosive, and possibly leading to a more irregular etch/patina in the even of any residual oils on the blade.

this may be a leap of logic, but it seems to be sound, and backed up by how strongly this steel stained with this method, compared to the almost non-existant patination observed with immersion in 3% solution [which was plenty for the two sgian dubh blades i processed].

[canid]

photo of part of the collection, showing the patinas:

[Rick]

Those sure are nice. You did a nice job.

[gryffynklm]

Nice looking knives.

I don't know if this will work on steel.

So
For a patina on brass I do fuming technique with ammonia. To antique brass hinges and such I clean any old finish or oil with a solvent like acetone. I use a container that will allow the part to be suspended by a wire hook with out touching the container. In the bottom I put some ammonia, the amount depends on the container size, about 1/2 inch and cover the top. I usually do this in the summer so the container can be put outside in the sun. I check every two hours until i get the patina I want. I rinse off the items and use a past wax to finish it off.

[crashdive123]

They look great. Very nicely done.

[hunter63]

photo of part of the collection, showing the patinas:

Very nice, nice to see tham done.
Good job

[pocomoonskyeyes]

Very Well done Canid!! Yours look so nice!!

[canid]

i think i'm happy with the santoku blade, so these might be the final images before it gets a handle. i would like to refine the bevels, so they are symetrical, but honestly, the overall angle is just fine, the blade is thinned well enough to be a good slicer, and as they say; if it ain't broke:

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/img_0249.jpg
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/img_0256.jpg
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/img_0251.jpg

i just love the blue patina this steel takes.

[canid]

except for the portion towards the tip, it's an almost flat grind on the un-notched side, and since i slice with my right hand, this puts the notches on the proper side, and the bevel there should further aid slicing [e.g. food being sliced should not stick to the knife].

it is slightly distally tapered in addition to the flat grind. i'm sure my next attempt will be executed still better. it began as rather thick stock for a santoku, but this leaves it plenty of mass for light/fine chopping of soft food without much effort [too much force against such a steep blade edge would be detrimental].

overall; i'm happy with the knife, and hope the handle i decide on to do it justice.

[Camp10]

I havnt seen you make an ugly handle yet!! It looks great Canid, as usual.

[canid]

you aren't looking closely enough :D

[canid]

when it comes to tempering; i keep forgetting something important:

the lady's grandmother was into ceramics/pottery. there is an old electric kiln sitting in the corner of the workshop.

i should fire it up and see what it's temp range is.

[Rick]

In other news.....Central California was hit with a blackout when the power grid was suddenly and unexpectedly melted from granny's kiln being fired up.

[Camp10]

when it comes to tempering; i keep forgetting something important:

the lady's grandmother was into ceramics/pottery. there is an old electric kiln sitting in the corner of the workshop.

i should fire it up and see what it's temp range is.

I can tell you that the kiln I use to heat treat was designed for ceramics and will get to 2100 F! I can heat treat all steels, stainless and carbon in it and the results are great! Dig it out and fire it up!

[Rick]

Just be aware of the electric costs for running it. They aren't cheap.

[canid]

yeah; i'm betting this one gets hot too. it draws a looooott of current. it's on it's own 240 circuit on the breaker panel

[Camp10]

Just be aware of the electric costs for running it. They aren't cheap.

And what's wrong with that? (says the lineman!):innocent:

[canid]

with Koa handle:

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/koa-handle.jpg

propeller warpage from heat treatment:

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/warpage.jpg

i still haven't got the handle shaped quite as i'd like it. beautiful wood though.

[crashdive123]

That's not warpage - that's character. Nice job.

[Camp10]

To bad about the blade..are you going to try to straighten it? Looks like it will still work ok like it is.

[welderguy]

I like it , All I'm seeing is character not defects.

[canid]

i'm going to try gently to straighten it slightly :D

i can't forget what happened to the last blade i tried to straighten, and the defect had been minor to begin with.

as for working as it, it shredded several old cedar 1x8 boards [against the grain] and a likewise weathered 2x4. it'll certainly get the light chopping tasks i wanted it for done.

[Camp10]

i'm going to try gently to straighten it slightly :D

i can't forget what happened to the last blade i tried to straighten, and the defect had been minor to begin with.

as for working as it, it shredded several old cedar 1x8 boards [against the grain] and a likewise weathered 2x4. it'll certainly get the light chopping tasks i wanted it for done.

I guess I might just leave it then!:) Nice job!

[canid]

don't get me wrong, new, dry 2x4 board would have destroyed the blade [it's pretty thin], but yes, i'm pretty happy as long as it get's it's intended job done.

[canid]

started a couple of skinners with that kromedge blade.

these are just cut and ground from the blade. i made certain to cool them [in water] frequently while grinding. i had been a little concerned about harming the temper anyway, until i tried to drill out the pin holes using a cheap, but otherwise serviceable bimetal bit intended for use on metal. i ate half an inch of bit by the time i was 1/4 through the stock. i'd say the temper is just fine.

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/img_0249-1.jpg

4 3/4" overall, 2 13/16" total blade edge, and 5/64" thick.

[canid]

the handle shape could use a little refinement, but it's almost as i want it.

i have to say, as long as the friction heat is dissipated often, and the stock doesn't get too hot, stainless blades from existing, known stock is pretty easy.

basic rules: keep the water in easy arm's reach, and if the metal is just becoming too hot to hold comfortably [near the site of cutting/grinding], it's time to cool. i still have to see how these finished blades hold up.

[canid]

update on the stainless skinners:

i've got one set of the scales made, tapped and dry fitted. now i'm just working on shaping the grip.

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/kromedge%20skinners/01-left.jpg
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/kromedge%20skinners/01-right.jpg
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/kromedge%20skinners/01-spine.jpg

you can see in the second picture that i did overheat the end of the bevel while grinding.

here is a preview of both of them:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/kromedge%20skinners/scales-preview.jpg

i think the blades are a bit wider than i want them, so removing the softened steel i overheated won't be a problem.
the knives are quite small, as i said; under 5"oa.

[Julie362]

I have one knife and I bought it for a dollar. However, I was awake for a minor surgery on my lower back to remove some scar tissue that had gone down almost to the muscle... Anyways, I smelled them cauterizing my veins. Lovely smell. (Rick is dryheaving, I bet)

[canid]

btw: today was an example of the many times i learn lessons i already knew, shouldn't have needed to be reminded, and yet had to learn again the hard way, by way of a blood sacrafice:

when machining metal, particularly thin sections of metal which have been sharpened along one edge, remember to clamp it down well, firmly and securely.

while tapping out one of the pin holes, i stopped to resharpen and harden the drill bit. i forgot that after doing this, the bit tends to bite instantly, and the risk of projectile workpieces increases significantly. i chose to be lazy and not clamp the blade down, and as a result, i siced through my fingertip, including part of my finger nail.

i had to get the bleeding stopped before resuming any work [nothing worse than bleeding all over a wood surface you've taken pains to keep clean and just sanded smooth.

safety first folks.

[hunter63]

I agree, "stuff happens", you can never be too careful.
Hope it isn't too bad?
Nice job BTW

[canid]

it's not bad. it might get infected under the nail, since my hands where filthy at the time, and under the nail wounds don't breathe too well, but i've gotten worse while shoveling wet manure, so meh.

just a wake up call for my lazy use of power tools.

i'm temporarily out of fresh sanding belts, so these handle scales might go on hold for a couple days. i tend to work on my projects in spurts anyway.

[crashdive123]

Those are looking great! Glad the lesson wasn't too serious.

[Ted]

Now thats the way I like em! Looks great Canid!

[pocomoonskyeyes]

On pieces that are long enough, instead of clamping I just brace them against the support column of my Drill Press, so that the piece can't spin should the drill bit bind. I haven't worked on anything that small yet, but maybe the same principle would work??? Maybe a bolt(s) through the support rest/table on your drill press? Mine does have long slots that that might work on. I hate clamping my blade to the support rest/Table,as it usually puts the blade at a cant or angle, then my holes that I drill are also at an angle. Just a thought........

[canid]

i don't have a drill press. just a hand drill, a workbench and a scrap of wood to put beneath the workpiece.

generally, anything that positively arrests the workpiece and prevents it's being thrown or grabbed should be used. i was being lazy and working without any such precaution.

[canid]

the second one is about as far along as the first one was yesterday.

the first one is coming along nicely. i'm impressed how much i'm able to get done with the compound curvature with only the disk sander:

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/kromedge%20skinners/img_0260.jpg
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/kromedge%20skinners/img_0259.jpg
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/kromedge%20skinners/img_0258.jpg

[Ted]

Man, that thing just makes me grin! I love that knife! Great work.... as usually!

Sorry but I'm going to copy it, add a gut hook and use antler scales. I just have too!

[pocomoonskyeyes]

Very nice work Canid!!

I'm sorry I thought you had a drill press,Don't know why, but I did. Perhaps some nails driven in a board?? 4 nails driven in should provide adequate "Bracing".

[canid]

i've got a couple of quick release clamps that work great, when i remember to use them.

[canid]

and ted: none of my craft work posted here is intellectual property; copy away. just make sure to post lots and lots of knife porn while you do it :D

[Ted]

and ted: none of my craft work posted here is intellectual property; copy away. just make sure to post lots and lots of knife porn while you do it :D

LOL... Well thank you! Man I going to have to break down and by a camera. The photos of the knives I've made are from me laying them on the scanner,LOL. Already given away a couple without posting them because the scans were so s****y! Grainny porn sucks! LOL

Now granny porn on the other hand....(ooops, did I just type that out loud!!!):blushing::blushing::blushing:

[crashdive123]

Well done. Glad the disc sander is working out for you.

[canid]

love that Koa.

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/kromedge%20skinners/img_0262.jpg

i would be interested in donating one of this pair for a DOC auction if anybody is game.

[crashdive123]

That's a generous offer. If you want to, just start a thread like Poco did and then it'll be off to the races.

[canid]

sounds like a plan. first i need to do the finish work, etc.

i think the one on offer will probably be the second blade; i'm not sure much epoxy got between the scales and the pins to stand the test of time.

the pins for the second blade will be roughed up better, and slightly tapered.

[canid]

started a couple more today. i just can't help myself:

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/img_0263.jpg