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canid
03-23-2010, 05:50 PM
btw: should we move this to the knife forum?

crashdive123
03-23-2010, 06:05 PM
Man! You sure are becoming a production line. Nice work. If you want it moved, I will - fits here in the Making Stuff forum as well.

COWBOYSURVIVAL
03-23-2010, 06:17 PM
I really like the Kukri Canid! Good shape work. I was wanting to do one for my next project. I am hung up right now trying to decide if I want to temper after my mineral spirits controlled quench, which seems to have worked well. I left the edge the thickness of a dime for heattreat and have now taken it to a convex edge using a wet stone. It seems to take an edge good. May have to do some tests before I mount the scales...

canid
03-24-2010, 02:05 AM
ease in taking an edge is half the battle.

thickness of a dime is way thicker than you should need to leave it for heat treat. i think you're just making more work for yourself.

Camp10
03-24-2010, 05:53 AM
I would temper it CS! When I was experimenting with that steel, I quenched in animal fat (because I figured that's how 200 year old steel should be quenched) and I was very surprised how hard I was able to get it. I think I send the method I used and the hardness I measured when I was done. I cant remember the numbers off hand but It was very hard and very brittle after quench.

canid
03-24-2010, 09:18 PM
update and a new one:

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/two-more.jpg (http://s602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/?action=view&current=two-more.jpg)

i can't stop myself.

of course i'm not satisfied with that bevel on the bottom one. i'll work on it quite a bit more. that's what happens when you get into too much of a hurry.

Camp10
03-25-2010, 06:53 AM
Canid, are the marks on the top blade for a fuller? Nice job!

canid
03-25-2010, 05:43 PM
that was my desire, but this stock is really too thin for my liking, and i don't think i could grind in a fuller without risk of cutting through.

i think i'll just keep the template i made for this blade and do it again the next time i have thicker stock.

canid
03-26-2010, 06:15 PM
note to self:

glue up scales before sanding pins flush!

canid
03-26-2010, 09:15 PM
i got my hands on a couple old steel bed rails. i've cut out a few blanks, and started another blade from the template i was talking about earlier.

it's just like the top one in the last pic, though the blade is a hair wider, and this stock is a little thicker.

the stock has nice sparks, and i've heard those rails tend to be simple steel. i'm thinking in the .60% C range, at a wild guess. i'll be hardening the first one soon enough, and i'll try an oil quench first, i think.

Camp10
03-26-2010, 09:24 PM
i got my hands on a couple old steel bed rails. i've cut out a few blanks, and started another blade from the template i was talking about earlier.

it's just like the top one in the last pic, though the blade is a hair wider, and this stock is a little thicker.

the stock has nice sparks, and i've heard those rails tend to be simple steel. i'm thinking in the .60% C range, at a wild guess. i'll be hardening the first one soon enough, and i'll try an oil quench first, i think.

They are a higher carbon steel but I dont know the range either. I am very interested in what you come up with on your heat treat, I have a pile of them upstairs in the garage just doing nothing.:innocent:

canid
03-26-2010, 09:26 PM
if they turn out to be something comparable to 1060, they'll make good practice for differential tempering and playin' with clay :D

canid
03-26-2010, 09:57 PM
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/carbon%20tactical%20bowie/img_0265.jpg

COWBOYSURVIVAL
03-26-2010, 09:59 PM
Having cut some scrap bed rail...I'd say your right it isn't A36...something with a little more carbon maybe....

canid
03-26-2010, 10:03 PM
definitely more carbon then mild steel. it's almost certainly as rolled, it's only slightly hard, so it seems to be that would probably make it hot rolled.

in it's state, i get some pretty impressive single splitting of the spall when i grind it. as far as i know, that indicates a pretty good carbon content.

canid
03-26-2010, 10:13 PM
to show you what i mean; here's a comparison:

here is a known mild steel nail:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/sparking/nail-01.jpg

and here is the bed rail, as is:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/sparking/bedrail-01.jpg

when i do the heat treat, i'll do an extra piece to show one of the bed rail after normalizing, and then after hardening.

canid
03-27-2010, 02:52 PM
it hardens well in oil [the file wouldn't cut it for removing the scale on the bevel, and i had to use a sanding block]. i'm charging up the camera batteries now. i forgot to do it last night.

canid
03-27-2010, 03:49 PM
post heat treat:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/carbon%20tactical%20bowie/img_0268.jpg

and after cleanup:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/carbon%20tactical%20bowie/img_0270.jpg

i'm also getting started on the scales today. i think i've got a friend comming by today to see about hand fitment, so this knife might be sold.

canid
03-27-2010, 04:41 PM
sharpening and polishing a bevel this hard is an enourmous PITA. the guy intends to cut rope with it though, so it's either this, or he'll be dressing it every 3 cuts.

canid
03-27-2010, 06:54 PM
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/carbon%20tactical%20bowie/img_0271.jpg

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/carbon%20tactical%20bowie/img_0272.jpg

crashdive123
03-27-2010, 07:13 PM
Very nicely done.

canid
03-27-2010, 08:21 PM
next one is shaping up to be a clip point version of the same knife:

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/img_0274.jpg

canid
03-28-2010, 08:45 PM
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/collection-03-2010.jpg

and the next crop, also slight modifications to the template used for the last one:

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/carbon%20tactical%20bowie/blanks-various.jpg

Camp10
03-28-2010, 08:55 PM
It looks like you have developed your own unique style! I like the handle shape, nice work!

pocomoonskyeyes
03-28-2010, 09:00 PM
Nice!!! You have quite the assortment of blades!!

crashdive123
03-28-2010, 09:04 PM
Looks like you should be about ready to set up a table at the next knife show.

canid
03-28-2010, 09:07 PM
not yet, but maybe in a year or two [if i go on spending half of my time working on them, as i have been].

i think that when i can round up a decent part time job [walmart looks like they blew me off], i can put a little more cash into the workshop, and will be able to do a good many things better or more efficiently.

between this and the bows, i can't wait to have a steadier flow of resources.

canid
03-28-2010, 11:49 PM
i've got a couple of blades which will be ready for the heat treat tomorrow, so i thought i'd try something new to me.

i'm going to try for my first differential temper.

i excavated some more subsoil, and crumbled it well. i sifted it out through a fine sieve to remove most of the humic matter, and filled a mason jar 4/5 full. i added water until all the air in the soil was displaces, and skimmed off everything that floated, to remove most of the rest of the humus.

i placed the lid on the jar, and shook it well for about 5 min, then sat it down to settle. i let it settle for half an hour, then slowly poured off most of the water, along with the little remainder of organic material. i gave it another brisk shake, and set it back down again to settle, this time until the water was pretty much clear.

the sand and clay stratafied, with the vast majority of the coarser sand and the fine iron and other dense components settling out first, to the very bottom. next, most of the fine sand, and almost all the rest of the coarse stuff. next, the remainder of the fine sand/silt, along with much of the inorganic clay. lastly, the remainder of the inorganic clay, along with the very finest of the organic material, which is very hard to get rid of by this method. this 'organic muck' is the stuff often confused with real clay, and for our purposes, i believe it is fine.

i carefully poured the water, and the top layer of clay which readily returned to suspension onto a flat surface [in this case, the bottom half of a pizza box], letting the excess water run out.

being greedy [trying to recover as much of the clay as possible, i reached my hand into the jar to scoop out much of the clay which did not go back into suspension in the water. this is where the bulk of the clay ends up, and i didn't want to go through a second separatory process. as a result, i believe i ended up with a lot of the fine sand still in my clay.

i scooped out the bbq grill, and dumped out the ash from the forge, and passed these through the fine sieve, over the clay mixture, mixing it in afterward.

to thicken this up, and add still more plastic material to the mix, i also added some fine wood dust from behind my sander. this doubtless contained a lot of fine steel dust as well.

i mixed these in well, and the wood dust turned out to be coarser than i had supposed. next time i will sift only the very finest of this material out as well.

with the mix stiffer and gritter than i has hoped, i figured i'd give it a shot anyway. i spread it on the blade with a piece of bamboo [thicker than i should have], and began to run a fine splinter of wood over the bevel, scooping off the excess clay mixture. i next made a second pass, taking quasi-regular 'dips' to remove extra clay from small parts of the side of the blade further than the line of the bevel. this did not work well wtih the material being as i said, too stiff. i managed to get the job done, with a poor looking line, and way too thick a layer of clay on the blade.

in between sides, i used my heat gun to speed the drying process, so my goop didn't fall off, but so i didn't have to wait long. even with such rapid partial drying there is no sign of cracking.

this is set by to dry overnight, after which i will give it a full drying, again with the heat gun, and it will be heat treated tomorrow if all turns out well.

because it turned out so thick, just after it is dry, i am going to carefully remove much of the thickness by gentle sanding. i figure if the clay flakes off during this procedure, it probably would have flaked off during firing or quenching.

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/img_0279.jpg

i have no idea how reasonable my choice and proportions of components in the mixture are, but i have heard of each of them being used, unless i'm mistaken, and they should keep it nice and plastic, plenty 'sticky' and insulative enough.

wish me luck, and don't hesitate to add any recommendations if you will.

canid
03-29-2010, 08:02 PM
heat treat today:

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/before-1.jpg

and out of the quench, wtih the bevels cleaned up:

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/after.jpg

i got a good head start on cleaning the little one up, because i'm going crazy waiting to see of a hamon was produced.

i managed to sand it down to a reasonable thickness, and smoothe out the fine cracks with my finger and a few drops of water. i believe there was far too much combustable material [wood dust and carbon rich ash], as it was soft and punky when it came out of the forge, and mostly crumbled away during immersion.

i have only drawn the temper on the small one. the other two will be done shortly; i wanted to play around with tempering by heat-gun.

i've spent the last hour working the small blade on the stones, and i do think i begin to see slight hints of a hamon developing; it's so far just faint suggestions of what look like the ashi. the steel is not nearly smooth enough yet to be sure.

i'm going to polish it to 1500grit paper, and rub on some mild vinegar after that.

canid
03-29-2010, 08:06 PM
what i'll do next time is mix the clay mixture i already have 50/50 with fresh clay. it should be the right consistency at a much lower water content that way anyway, and should stick better.

canid
03-31-2010, 06:41 PM
starting a light duty draw-knife today. here it is, shaping it out:

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/drawknives/light-drawknife-01-shaping.jpg

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/drawknives/light-drawknife-01-shaped.jpg

next will be to hot-form the bends for the handle bits, and then to heat treat, make the handles and sharpen.

overall length is 17" before bending. blade length is 5".
because of the thin stock, this will be for light use [no using as a pry bar while shaving]. it won't take the stresses of rough use. the next one i make will probably be twice as thick, suitable for roughing bow staves, debarking logs, ect.

Camp10
04-02-2010, 06:58 PM
I have wanted to make one also but I am not sure how to go about the heat treat. It looks tricky to get the blade hard but leave much of the rest normalized. Can you show your quench to this when you do it? I'm looking for ideas.

crashdive123
04-02-2010, 07:06 PM
Pretty cool. Now finish that puzzle.

canid
04-02-2010, 07:14 PM
basically, i just intend to normalize the whole thing after forming, and for hardening, i need only heat up the blade portion.

since the whole piece is much longer than my forge, i will just heat only the blade over the top of the forge, moving it around to keep the heat even, and then quench.

since i expect this steel will air harden a bit in smaller cross sections, i expect slight hardening of the handle bits, and the heat that is conducted to the portion nearest the blade while i heat treat the blade will probably temper that area back a bit [this is where most of the stress will be concentrated during use].

Crash: that's my lady's puzzle; she'd probably murder me.

Camp10
04-02-2010, 07:22 PM
So you are going to quench the whole thing but try to keep the heat limited to the blade edge?

canid
04-02-2010, 07:42 PM
you got it.

not only the blade edge, the whole blade, just not the handle bits, since they don't need to be hardened.

canid
04-06-2010, 07:58 PM
never spill vinegar on an unfinished knife and fail to notice it overnight:

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/kromedge%20skinners/img_0291.jpg

there's a pretty good chance it's toast, cosmetically speaking.

it seems to be cleaning up fairly well [thank goodness the scales are stabilized], but we'll see how it comes out.

your_comforting_company
04-06-2010, 09:14 PM
I think it adds character.
If there are any oak trees down around you, you can cook up a liquor from the bark to black the blade and you might also consider using pickling lime to neutralize any that soaked into it.

crashdive123
04-06-2010, 09:20 PM
Looks like you might be in for a bit of hand sanding.

canid
04-06-2010, 11:17 PM
more than a bit, this stuff is a royal PITA to get smooth. at least it takes a pretty low luster finish, so it doesn't take as much polishing.

the discoloration has permeated some residual voids in the grain of the scales. it doesn't look bad, but now i wonder if i should abuse the rest of the handle wood and sand it down, so that it all matches. that might actually look good.

canid
04-13-2010, 01:40 PM
I'm taking a couple of these knives by a local sporting shop to see if they'll sell them for me.

crashdive123
04-13-2010, 05:25 PM
Good luck!

panch0
04-13-2010, 08:54 PM
I am sure they will take them and they will sell quickly. Good luck!

canid
08-07-2010, 04:25 AM
i'm not doing much knife work at the moment, owing to other projects, but i have been playing around with a couple handles in the puukko style.

i thought i'd show one.

glued up some thin cherry to two small pieces of padauk, and shaped a piece of slightly figured walnut:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/IMG_0347.jpg

and cut two pieces of antler down to form the bulk of the handle:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/IMG_0355.jpg

glued them up and began to shape:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/IMG_0357.jpg

and this is more or less the contour i'm going for, or possibly brought even narrower towards the front, with a less pronounced flare:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/contour.jpg

i think it could use some wrought iron plate for a butt and bolster cap. i don't have a blade to go with it at the moment.

canid
08-07-2010, 04:31 AM
i'm working on another with antler, padauk, koa and metal spacers [i'd like to find some nickel, but i'll go with anything light colored and lustrous.

as soon as i can rip some board from this walnut, some of it has some mild spalting [or whatever a more suitable term is for the spalting like effect that walnut gets in it's heartwood] and one side of the half-round is a bit curly/birdseyed. all in all, not staggeringly figured, but not too ugly either. i look forward to working some handles and scales wtih it.

crashdive123
08-07-2010, 05:47 AM
That is awesome. It sure will make a dandy looking knife.

Erratus Animus
08-07-2010, 08:07 AM
I like that handle as well.

canid
08-07-2010, 08:28 AM
bah. i'm restoring a sword for a good friend's wedding this morning, and at the moment i'm hand stitching a sheath. now i know why you can't even get Taiwanese kids to do this without a machine.

Erratus Animus
08-07-2010, 09:42 AM
bah. i'm restoring a sword for a good friend's wedding this morning, and at the moment i'm hand stitching a sheath. now i know why you can't even get Taiwanese kids to do this without a machine.

I have those moments. I fudged a bit when I said I cant make a sheath. More like I wont lol.

crashdive123
08-07-2010, 04:30 PM
Canid - what ever happened with the draw knife?

canid
08-07-2010, 10:40 PM
It is somewhere, presumably in storage by now, at a friends house along with several of my finished and mostly finished knives. He is in Chile for several months or more.

i did make a new handle for that crooked knife though.

canid
08-09-2010, 04:17 PM
several things about this attempt could use some practice and refinement, and i'm not nearly finished, but here's where this knife is at:

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/IMG_0360-1-1.jpg
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/IMG_0361-1.jpg

in all this is serving as a good lesson in how to do, and how not to do such a knife in the future. i look forward to doing a good composite sheath next time, though i absolutely have to spiff this one up a bit, since i used the last good piece of padauk for it.

Winter
08-10-2010, 12:03 AM
Nice work Canid. I'm liking many of your designs, and, like myself, you scrounge steel.

canid
08-10-2010, 04:24 AM
yeah, i love to scrounge/recycle steel, and to rescue broken and neglected blades.

canid
08-10-2010, 04:54 AM
now the adhesives are set better, and the leather is dry, so it's taken it's permanent shape and hardened back up a tad. the fitment is good, with the top of the leather upper fitting the mid-handle perfectly the lower portion of the upper did not contract as tightly against the wood of the sheath as i had hoped, so i'll probably wet that back down and try again.

for now, i'm glad i can still get it off easily, as i forgot to flare the slot where the blade enteres the wood/antler, so that it slides in readily and does not hang out.

i'll have to take some sort of rigid, but non-brittle adhesive to the upper and lower portion of the leather upper, to stiffen it up enough to make it sandable. i want to taper the lower portion so that the bottom edge sits flush against the surface.

the upper portion i would either like to round off by sanding, or if the leather will stretch further, do a rolled seam.

still gotta sand the profiles of the wood down, for better taper and to remove bulk where appropriate.

i soaked the wood in polyurethane sealant by immersion, so i'm sure it's well penetrated. i didn't mean this to be a finish, which is why i let it get all dingy before taking the picture.

i'm stuck with the visible glue-lines on this knife, as i didn't get my surfaces well mated.

canid
08-10-2010, 05:26 PM
so this is still not my best work, but it's coming right along:

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/puukko01large.jpg

the lady likes it well enough that she had to have it when it's done, so i'll probably be making another stand for the bookshelf in the living room.

Camp10
08-10-2010, 06:45 PM
Looks real good Canid!!

canid
08-10-2010, 06:58 PM
thank you. i tell you one thing, i'll never be much at engraving antler.

crashdive123
08-10-2010, 10:24 PM
It came out great. Well done.

canid
08-15-2010, 02:09 PM
i'll get a final picture when i get the chance. i'm starting a new puukko today. the blade is from that bed-rail stock and for the handle i'm starting with some nice light mullberry. i'm probably going to go with an all, or mostly leather sheath on this one, and i'm trying to come up with ideas for handle embellishment.

canid
08-17-2010, 11:26 PM
starting some handles for a couple old blades [the crash L6 stock], and the new little puukko:

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/figuredwalnut.jpg

this is the figured walnut i mentioned before. most of it's boring, but there's some great character and some curling in there. i don't have a working power saw at the moment, so my only recourse is splitting and sanding flush, which is a killer when trying to conserve the limited curly areas [the split follows the curls and i have to grind so much of it away it hurts].

Erratus Animus
08-17-2010, 11:54 PM
that walnut is beautiful, I know what you mean about having to cut it too. I save every scrap of exotic wood from building bows for my handles. That stuff just doesn't grown on cheap trees anymore :)

canid
08-17-2010, 11:58 PM
seriously. i feel horrible too, because i cut that darn tree down myself 2 years ago, for a friend, and all but a 26" rounder about 14" diameter went into their firewood stall. same with a bunch of fruitless mulberry with some great gnarled crotches.

crashdive123
08-18-2010, 06:34 AM
Looking forward to seeing the end results.

canid
08-18-2010, 02:43 PM
handle for the puukko; still shaping:

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/IMG_0370.jpg
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/IMG_0373.jpg

i should have used a spacer of contrasting material, because the antler and mulberry seem to run together. i suppose i'll have to do that for the next two.

crashdive123
08-18-2010, 02:47 PM
That sure is purdy.

canid
08-18-2010, 02:56 PM
i learned some things about mulberry:

1.) if it is not dry enough, it does not power sand for spit.
2.) if it is dry enough, it scorches at the slightest touch of an almost new sanding disk.
3.) both states seem to exist in different depths of the same piece, since it has only been seasoning since last fall.

crashdive123
08-18-2010, 03:00 PM
Not having worked with wood too much, I have quickly found that it is soooooo easy to burn it when shaping with the belt sander.

panch0
08-19-2010, 01:23 AM
Nice job Candid!

Rick
08-19-2010, 07:35 AM
Very nice, Canid!!

canid
08-20-2010, 12:33 AM
got the blade finished, with an initial edge and i've sealed the handle. just needs wet sanded til it shines, and for the leather to be trimmed/sanded flush with the handle.

i have a friend who might want to buy it, but if not, i think i'll be doing another hard-sheath to go with it.

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/walnut-puukko02.jpg

working on the other two more tomorrow. i heat treated and beveled 5 blades today.

canid
08-20-2010, 12:35 AM
i think i need to start angling the tangs a bit, so they follow the lines of the handles.

Rick
08-20-2010, 12:43 AM
Pretty darn nice. I like the Puukko design. Good luck on the sale. He'll have a very nice knife.

canid
08-20-2010, 12:49 AM
he might want one of the other ones, i'm not sure yet. i'm having a lot of fun with the puukkos, so i'm definitely going to just keep on making 'em.

crashdive123
08-20-2010, 06:41 AM
That turned out great.

Erratus Animus
08-20-2010, 07:36 AM
Those look good to me!.

p moore
08-20-2010, 02:15 PM
Great work, I have seen a lot of good looking knives on this thread.

Paul

canid
08-20-2010, 02:45 PM
thank you all.

i keep working on my finishing, which i would say is my biggest shortcoming.

i would say i'm getting pretty darned good at heat treating in a wood/charcoal fire.

p moore
08-20-2010, 05:42 PM
I know what you mean. When you pull one out of the oven, seems you are only half way done.

Paul

canid
08-20-2010, 06:01 PM
yeah. with the fine finishing, it feels like even by the time they are all assembled they are only half done.

sometimes, i'm trying to find a way to pull off a rough finished look and even that turns out to be just as much work.

like those blades where i haven't ground down through all the mill scale inclusions, or pitting, the surface work seems like it should require less attention, but it works out to be about the same as all the pre-polish work on any other blade, or ends up looking janky.

canid
08-27-2010, 07:00 AM
the more i search around online, the more i wonder why - quality for quality - pattern welded steel bar costs almost exactly the same as the finished knives made from material of the same dimmensions. high end art knives aside of course.

panch0
08-27-2010, 09:27 AM
Lookin good Candid. I have never built a hidden tang knife. You are ahead of the game.

canid
08-27-2010, 10:14 AM
i've been doing a couple of them lately. peening is still proving a challenge to me though.

here's the one i'm working on right now:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/IMG_0390.jpg

i wish i had the belt sander up and running, i have to do the concave contours with paper on a dowel. not so great for sanding down into the metal spacers. the middle piece is 3 layers of leather, which i plan to reapply a dye to after the shaping is done.

crashdive123
08-27-2010, 02:10 PM
Man, that looks great and like it would be a real comfortable fit in the hand.

canid
08-27-2010, 03:00 PM
i'm still shaping it a bit, a little at a time. i want this one to have a really good, natural feel in the hand while preserving a refined profile, so i don't want to force it [read: i'd like to be able to get a decent dollar for this one].

i mixed up some fine sanding dust and glue paste to fill one of the voids, which is drying now.

Winter
08-27-2010, 10:16 PM
I'm liking that recurve blade alot.

canid
08-28-2010, 12:11 AM
finished shaping and got the first coat of spar on there and a wet sanding. also re-shaped the handle on the puukko so it's not so big and clunky. i like the dimensions of both of these handles a great deal more now:

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/walnutalmostdone.jpg

crashdive123
08-28-2010, 06:43 AM
They came out great.

Rick
08-28-2010, 07:08 AM
Those are two good looking knives. Nice job!

canid
08-29-2010, 07:43 PM
by the way: that krome edge [proprietary steel used in some craftsman circular saw blades] steel is water hardenable, and seemed to behave pretty stably, with no warpage, and little movement at all on quench.

i did not normalize before heat treat and it's pretty tough and flexible.

i didn't get my hardening heat even on the nessie, so there are some softspots and i might redo it.

canid
10-23-2010, 01:07 PM
Here's some more of that walnut. I've been cutting this by hand, and I must say it's a PITA, but I'd still call it rewarding.

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/wood/IMG_0026.jpg

I'm still learning to cut it for getting the most from the figure.

yellowcab
11-16-2025, 03:20 AM
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yellowcab
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yellowcab
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yellowcab
05-04-2026, 09:21 AM
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