View Full Version : Fuel Injection
BraggSurvivor
10-17-2008, 07:52 PM
I have always stored about 600 litres of gasoline in comparison to my storage of about 6000 litres of diesel. I'm considering storing another 400 litres of gasoline for emergencies. It might not be a bad idea to get some ideas out there regarding gasoline preservation in respect to those who would hold such in canisters of some sort. Obviously gasoline won't last forever but does anyone have some tips on storing gasoline? Fuel stabilizer and container selection make a great difference of course. I personally like to use non-oxygenated/ethanol free gasoline for storage when I can get it. I prefer plastic containers too. Anything fuel injected is out?
I have a line on a completely restored 1945 Willy's Jeep and seriously considering buying it as it will run on poor quality gasoline.
Let's hear some more ideas from all of you on what actually works.
DOGMAN
10-17-2008, 08:15 PM
I have always stored about 600 litres of gasoline in comparison to my storage of about 6000 litres of diesel. I'm considering storing another 400 litres of gasoline for emergencies. It might not be a bad idea to get some ideas out there regarding gasoline preservation in respect to those who would hold such in canisters of some sort. Obviously gasoline won't last forever but does anyone have some tips on storing gasoline? Fuel stabilizer and container selection make a great difference of course. I personally like to use non-oxygenated/ethanol free gasoline for storage when I can get it. I prefer plastic containers too. Anything fuel injected is out?
I have a line on a completely restored 1945 Willy's Jeep and seriously considering buying it as it will run on poor quality gasoline.
Let's hear some more ideas from all of you on what actually works.
The fuels we buy are made for seasons and regions. Gas and diesel fuels are blended for the ambient temperatures of the area where they are purchased. For example, the winter time fuel needs are quite different in Tampa, Florida as compared to Minot, North Dakota. If you store fuel purchased in the summer you may experience wintertime operation problems. In the case of diesel the fuel may cloud or gel. In the case of gasoline, the gas may not vaporize well and cause starting problems. If you are storing fuel in a boat, RV, generator, tractor, auto, etc., it is best to leave the fuel tank full and use a commercial grade fuel stabilizer prior to equipment storage.
Today over 30% of gasoline sold is oxygenated and gasoline does not store as well as non-oxygenated gasoline. If you have a choice, pick gas without MTBE or ETBE additives.
There is no advantage to using higher octane gasoline; in fact, high octane gas can be a disadvantage in many newer design engines and engines operating with a governed speed such as a generator. You should use what your operator's manual instructs you to use.
Kerosene is what is added to diesel fuel for sub zero wintertime use; at the truck stop they call it #1 diesel fuel. I suggest that Kerosene be treated as diesel fuel using PRI-D Fuel Treatment when storing and preventing algae growth. Here are some tips for storing diesel fuels and gasoline in barrels, tanks, and other types of containers. Keep fuel in a cool area and avoid wide temperature swings. Keep storage containers free of water and harmful metals. If you are storing in plastic type containers be sure these containers can handle fuel. Be sure the tanks are clean.
To keep fuel free of water, above ground tanks should have no contact with the ground. Underground tanks should be set in soil and rock for improved water drainage.
Wide temperature swings can be avoided by placing tanks in the shade or painting them with reflective paint. Metals such as copper and galvanized/zinc should not be used in fuel storage. If you use plastic, fiberglass, or other epoxy composition tanks, be sure they will stand up under the long-term hydrocarbon contact. When a large fuel tank is exposed to wide temperature swings, it should have a 2-way check valve to relieve pressure and vacuum. Most fuels produce microorganisms when water begins to collect in tanks. Commonly called algae, this stuff can be a real problem. The fuel contamination plugs filters and causes fuel system corrosion. Biocides have been developed to kill and prevent algae, bacteria, and fungus in fuels. When using fuels that have been in long term storage, don't pump from the very bottom of the tank, and filter the fuel.
There are a lot of variables that effect fuel storage. In general the use of a commercial grade fuel stabilizer on an annual basis will extend the useful life of fuel for an extra year. This annual procedure can be repeated between 5 and 10 times, thus giving fuel between 5 and 10 years of storage life.
RangerXanatos
10-17-2008, 08:26 PM
Be careful of plastic containers, gas and static electricity might be more than you bargain for.
BraggSurvivor
10-17-2008, 08:45 PM
Thanks you guys, great info. For my diesel I purchase purple and add 20% Kerosene for winter use and as a stabilizer. Never had problems with the diesel. I have never stored large amounts of gasoline though and rotate yearly what I already store.
The plastic containers I am referring to Ranger are approved for gasoline storage but cannot be transported legally. I have a transport vault for that.
I guess my question is: how long can I store it without it degrading so bad it wouldn't run a newer fuel injected vehicle?
I guess my question is: how long can I store it without it degrading so bad it wouldn't run a newer fuel injected vehicle?
If you use stabil it should last for a few years maximum.
crashdive123
10-17-2008, 09:28 PM
Bragg - I normally rotate my gasoline supply every year. I have used some that was 2 years old without any stabalizer in one of my trucks and did not notice any performance problems (2002 Silverado).
BraggSurvivor
10-17-2008, 09:38 PM
Bragg - I normally rotate my gasoline supply every year. I have used some that was 2 years old without any stabalizer in one of my trucks and did not notice any performance problems (2002 Silverado).
Thanks Crash, that is what I was looking for. I should be able to rotate every 2-3 years without a problem then.
One more thing came to mind: could my cold temps make a difference in comparison to your temps with storage?
crashdive123
10-17-2008, 09:40 PM
It may. The biggest problem I've got (using mostly 5 gal approved containers) is evaporation. Out of the 50 gallons in those I'd estimate that I lose about 6 gallons within a year.
BraggSurvivor
10-17-2008, 09:44 PM
Wow that much eh? Here I thought all the time it was my son siphoning off when he was broke. I must give him apologies tomorrow. :D
crashdive123
10-17-2008, 09:48 PM
The 5 gal cans I use are the ventless ones (Wally World for about $5) I don't know if the type of can makes a difference. I would imagine if you were using the Jerry Cans you may have less evaporation loss - they may seal better.
BraggSurvivor
10-17-2008, 09:59 PM
The 5 gal cans I use are the ventless ones (Wally World for about $5) I don't know if the type of can makes a difference. I would imagine if you were using the Jerry Cans you may have less evaporation loss - they may seal better.
Mine are 195 litre plastic gasoline storage containers with 3" cast aluminum screw on fill caps. I pump the fuel with a stationary hand crank style pump. The end of the nozzle has a ventless cap.
dawg69
10-18-2008, 01:40 AM
Bragg,
I wouldn't be so worried about a fuel injected vehicle with old fuel. It's been my experience that my carbureted truck has been much more finicky about old gas than my fuel injected cars. I had one f.i. car sit for two years without running and started up just fine. My truck sat for four months and would barely start with the stale fuel. The fuel system on an efi system can compensate a bit for fuel that is starting to go south.
Just my 2c worth as a former auto tech.
I don't store fuel, Bragg so I can't comment on that but re: your question on cold climates, condensation might be a factor. Just keep the cans full. Do you have a filter on your hand pump?
As for the plastic container, RangerX is correct about static electricity. Fuel moving in or out of the mouth of the container can build a static charge up on the plastic can. Just make certain the plastic can is on the ground and not in the back of a pickup or otherwise elevated. If it is, make certain you ground the can before pouring the gas in or out of the container. A spark from static electricity is no different than an flaming match.
You might also read through this thread Bulrush started:
http://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2277&highlight=store+gasoline
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