"Just Right Carbine, 45ACP" review

[jim Glass]

It took 3 weeks to get the rifle because it was a custom build because I wanted a 7 1/4" long forearm. I picked it up from the gun shop that did the transfer last Thursday. I bought an extra magazine and a box of ammo while there.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v30/jglass/JR%20overvieew%20magazenes%20loader.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/jglass/media/JR%20overvieew%20magazenes%20loader.jpg.html)

The JR and my 300 blackout are almost the same weight, the blackout a 1/4lb heavier. The JR has a slightly better finish than the AR-15s that I have. Saturday morning I took the JR to the stone quarry for a test fire. I had it setup with a "TrueGlo" red dot sight that I had on hand. Sighted in the JR at about 60 yards. It shot very well both with my reloads and the new shells purchased at the gun shop. Shot groups were very tight at around 2", I was happy with that. Never had a miss fire or miss feed with the JR after firing 150 rounds. It has a comfortable trigger pull.

Sunday I took the JR out to the sportsman club and set up at the 100 yard range. The JR did not perform well at the 100 yard range, didn't expect it to actually. Shots were all over the place so I would say the JR is not a 100 yard shooter. Fired 50 rounds but never had a missfeed. I did hit the bulls eye one time but the JR would not repeat that shot. The .223 shoots much better at 100 yards. My 9mm AR doesn't shoot well at 100 yards either but usually hits the paper. .
Next i'll put a scope on the JR and test the capability that way.

Close up of the upper and lower receiver. The hammer & trigger, safety latch, pistol grip, buffer & stock all the same as an AR-15. I should point out the JR Carbine is Left hand, right hand reversible. It can also be converted to different calibers if someone had the interest. Even the magazine receiver can be changed over.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v30/jglass/Upper%20and%20lower%20receiver.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/jglass/media/Upper%20and%20lower%20receiver.jpg.html)

I machined my own muzzle brake weeks ago. The threads on the barrel muzzle is a .578 X 28. Without having the barrel in my shop I had to make an external .578 X 28 thread gage then cut the internal threads on my lathe until the thread gage fit. The muzzle brake fit the barrel threads perfectly. I blackened the muzzle brake myself.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v30/jglass/flash%20hide.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/jglass/media/flash%20hide.jpg.html)

The Just Right Carbine in 45ACP accepts Glock G21 and G30 magazines. Took me considerable research to make that determination but I figured it out. Of course the new magazines are difficult to load beyond half full so I conjured up my own autoloader. Cabela's has an autoloader on sale for $20. I'll try to get there next week to buy one.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v30/jglass/autoloader.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/jglass/media/autoloader.jpg.html)

I'll add more to my JR Carbine review. I have put 200 rounds through it. The company recommends cleaning the rifle at that point so I'll post pictures of taking the JR apart.

[Phaedrus]

Nice! Good looking little carbine.

[Graf]

Good review looks like it will work well for you, few months ago I got a Ruger PC carbine. So far very happy with it, I like to get rifles that accept the same caliber as my pistols.

[kyratshooter]

Jim, are you snugging that carbine down on sandbags front and rear?

I ask because I have a couple of .45 acp pistols that will shoot into 12" at 100 yards off sandbags with open sights and that carbine should put a pistol to shame!

I am glad it is functioning fine for you. Going bang is always a good thing.

[jim Glass]

I'll try sandbags tomorrow morning. I may start at 50 yards then go to 100 yards. Not sure how trustworthy that red dot sight is. Maybe I'll mount a scope on it.
Really busy at the range yesterday, moving around wasn't possible. I was lucky to have a table at the 100 yard range.

[Ralph Rotten]

Interesting little rifle.
What kind of loads are you running thru it?

Also, your issue may actually be parallax from the red-dot scope. How did it shoot with iron sights?

[kyratshooter]

Parallax in a holographic sight??

You have been listening to too many people looking for an excuse for why they miss!

Cheap red dots might shift adjustment due to recoil, or fall apart due to bad construction, but parallax variation is not a problem they usually exhibit.

In fact, the elimination of parallax affect on POI is one reason they swept the firearms world from anti-aircraft guns to jet plane heads-up displays, to combat competition pistols and NRA formal target.

The dot coverage on a red dot scope is normally larger than any parallax deviation one would expect from a zero magnification device at 100 yards. Trying to center a one inch aiming point with a 3" dot gets a little tricky.

[jim Glass]

Gave the JR a thorough cleaning before returning the gun range this morning. Real easy, loosen the castle nut and unscrew to buffer tube and it is apart. Remove the charge handle, 8 - 32 screw and the bolt comes right out. To reassemble the hammer needs to be pushed down and out of the way so the bolt can be inserted. I did not take the bolt apart. I keep a jar of kerosene on my bench for soaking rifle bolts and cleaning. Dry with compressed air.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v30/jglass/break%20down.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/jglass/media/break%20down.jpg.html)

No luck at the gun range. I setup on the 50 yard range, used a barrel support for the barrel and sand bags for the receiver, good idea Ratshooter, had no trouble putting the red dot on the target. Bullets hit every where. Thinking the red dot scope was junk I removed it and installed an Alpen Kondike 3 - 12x scope on the JR. I fired my reloads and store bought ammo and the results were basically the same after firing 60-70 rounds. This is pretty bad!!!
Notice the lower target has bullet holes at bottom barely on the paper.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v30/jglass/shooting%20range%202.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/jglass/media/shooting%20range%202.jpg.html)

I emailed pictures to Just Right Carbines, manager replied and said something wrong with the barrel. Asked me if I could remove the barrel and send it back to them where he will test personally. Just returned from the post office. They will receive it Thursday. My review will be on hold until I get a barrel back and test.

[tigrate]

wonder why it wont group? try the 185 gr jswc win or rem match ammo. i"ve had 1911's that grouped 3" at 100 yds with that ammo, from the Lee machinerest. They must have the wrong rifling twist rate, or something like that. Could be a bad crown on the muzzle, or some sort of torque installation problem with the barrel. Hate to think that they can't make a barrel any better than that.

[jim Glass]

I have some updates on the JR Carbine. I contacted the company and included pictures of the targets you see above. They asked me if I could remove the barrel and return it to them where they said they would test fire the barrel at the factory. This is their reply,
"Got the barrel yesterday and there certainly seems to be something going on at the very end near the threads." They test fired another barrel and sent it to me, received it last Saturday. I have fired over 100 rounds through the replacement barrel and now the JR seems to be more accurate than my AR-15 9mm. The problem seems to be resolved for now at least. I'll post pictures of my recent targets soon. Your theory of "a bad crown on the Muzzle" could be correct. They were quick to address and resolve the issue.

[crashdive123]

Great to see that they took care of it and stand by what they sell. Reputation is everything.

[jim Glass]

By the way, what is "barrel crown"? I heard once the exit surface at the end of the barrel is critical to accuracy.

[kyratshooter]

The "Crown" is the point of the barrel where the rifling ends. Many people think it is the end of the barrel but it is not. The crown can be at the muzzle but the muzzle is not necessarily the crown.

The crown can be flat across the muzzle (target crown), it can be recessed as an oglive, it can be countersunk as a V, it can be rounded like most commercial barrels or it can be recessed inside the bore which we reefer to as "counter bored" (done to repair damaged crowns in military rifles).

Many rifles today that have threaded muzzles have a crown that is flush with the muzzle at the weakest part of the tube and easily damaged. The mfg generally installs a threaded cap or "thread protector" to prevent damage to the crown. it does not help of the damage occurs in the factory before that protector is installed.

When the rifling ends the pressure on the fired round is released from behind the bullet. That is the muzzle blast you see and hear upon firing. If that pressure is not released at the same exact instant for the entire circumference of the bullet the pressure surge can throw the bullet one direction or another and it does not do it uniformly.

The shape of the metal around the crown is important in protecting the crown from damage, which will affect accuracy. Most people think that the protective shape is the "crown" but it is not.

Proper crowning is not rocket science and can be achieved by the home gunsmith using common hand tools and valve grinding compound. Fact is that the process is much like lapping the valves of a car engine.

[jim Glass]

Continuing the Just Right Carbine Review. The JR company sent me a replacement barrel. Test fire it last Saturday, the tagets below show the results.

After the 3-12x Bushnell scope was zeroed on another target I test fired on a blank target at 50 yards with new Remington 230 grn loads. I was pleased with the results.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v30/jglass/first%20test%20fire%20new%20ammo.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/jglass/media/first%20test%20fire%20new%20ammo.jpg.html)

Next I switched to my reloads, results were a little disappointing:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v30/jglass/test%20fire%20with%20reloads.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/jglass/media/test%20fire%20with%20reloads.jpg.html)

I test fire on another target with slightly different reloads and the results got worse. Next they closed down the shooting range so people could check/change their targets. Twenty minutes later the range opened again I fired on another new targets and the results were a bit of a surprise. Oops, sorry that picture is so large, forgot to shrink it.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v30/jglass/Target%20after%20cool%20down.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/jglass/media/Target%20after%20cool%20down.jpg.html)

Apparently when the barrel gets hot accuracy is lost. I suspected that but never heard anyone talk about it. After the barrel had a chance to cool my reloads fired as well as the new Remington ammo.

More review to come

[jim Glass]

Just for comparison I test fired my 9mm AR-15 purchased from Palmetto State Armory a year ago. This was shooting my reloads at the 50 yard range. The 9mm was setup with iron sights. My 9mm is mostly for plinking but used it last winter as my daytime wild hog rifle.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v30/jglass/9mm%20target.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/jglass/media/9mm%20target.jpg.html)

Seems to have variation in elevation, fairly good on windage. The 9mm shoots fairly good and 100 yards but hits all over the paper. Never put a scope on the 9mm, need to try it some time. My point is the 9mm shoots about as well as the 45 acp JR Carbine

Little by little reloading is becoming more of a science project so I built a powder trickler. Never before did I weigh the powder for each bullet. Before I checked each 10 or 20 reloads for proper weight and I think I may have cause myself trouble doing that. Today I setup the powder measure to dump 1 to 1/2 grn short. With the measuring pan on the scale I would top off the exact amount of powder. I have 45acp loaded with varying amounts of power to see if a certain loads shoots better than the other.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v30/jglass/powder%20trickler%20setup.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/jglass/media/powder%20trickler%20setup.jpg.html)

I made the auger from 360 brass with a pitch of 5 threads per inch. I made a second auger with deeper threads to deliver a little more powder per turn. Works surprisingly well.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v30/jglass/Powder%20trickler%20auger.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/jglass/media/Powder%20trickler%20auger.jpg.html)

Tomorrow it is back to the range to see how all this works out.

[Rick]

Jeepers. Can you make me a blonde, brunette or a red head in that shop? I'm not picky.

[crashdive123]

Here ya go.

https://chelsysayshi.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/carrot-top.jpg

[Rick]

https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5014/5543864653_5ac1097dce_b.jpg

[Desert Rat!]

Now that's scary:scared::scared:

[jim Glass]

I'm not the same guy reloading today as the guy reloading 2 months ago. Firing 45 ACP through my Just Right Carbine has made me take a serious look at my reloading practices. For quite some time I had my doubts about my digital powder scale so several weeks ago I went to Cabela's and bought a new digital scale with the Lyman name on it. Nice scale, runs on batteries or DC power supply. Sure enough my old scale and the new Lyman scale did not agree by .1 grain. In fact the old scale seems to wonder by as much as a full grain. I recalibrated the scale and replaced the batteries more than once. Sometimes the old scale reads accurate and other times it does not. I was told by some friends the digital scales wander after a few years of use. Never would have expected that.

Now that I have a powder trickler I'm weighing the powder charge in every round. Used to check the powder charge every
10 or 15 loads. Now I'm loading 10 rounds with a specific powder charge, marking the loads and taking them to the gun range for testing. No doubt about it the 45ACP fired from the JR Carbine favor powder charges close to the maximum at
5.0 grains of the #231 powder of a 5.3 grain max. Any less powder results in extreme bullet drop. After 15 or 20 rounds the barrel needs to cool or accuracy is lost. I usually switch over to the 9mm AR to continue shooting. Now I'm wondering about the ammo I reloaded a year ago?

Nothing that I have shoots as well as my 223, AR-15 but it needs to cool after 15 or 20 rounds.

[kyratshooter]

For 30 years all of my pistol calibers have been loaded on a Lee turret press.

Each caliber has its own disk plate with the dies untouched for decades.

Each disk plate has a Lee autodisk powder measure that has been set for the standard charge in that caliber. A hole bored through a disk will not change its capacity and I never second guess or recheck charges after they have been established. The only thing I have to do is insure that I do not "double crank" the lever when charging.

Sometime around 1987 I bored a hole in one of the disks because the selection of charges was in between what I needed for my favored charge of Unique for my .38 special reloads. That was the exact charge I needed to make the reloads hit where a fixed sight S&W model 10 was looking. Apparently that hole has not changed and the guns have not changed, because both my old prewar M&P and my recently purchased police trade in both hit to the same spot with those reloads.

When I do weight charges for rifle cartridges I use a Pacific balance scale I have owned since 1970. It never varies and uses no batteries. It is accurate enough to weigh the period at the end of a sentence. Really, it will, I have weighed a dot made by a pencil on a slip of paper to demonstrate its sensitivity many times.

I weigh every precision rifle charge, and my precision pistol loads for hunting, but not bulk pistol reloads.

You are going through way too much trouble building precision pistol ammo for a gun that is not capable of shooting better then 6 inches at 50 yards, and burning it up so fast you have to wait for the barrel to cool down between strings!

[yellowcab]

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[yellowcab]

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[yellowcab]

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[yellowcab]

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[yellowcab]

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[yellowcab]

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