Square Foot Wall of Water

[Davidlastink]

So a local gardener said he uses Wall O Water insulators to get a head start on planting. I was wondering if anyone has tried this sort of setup with a square foot garden. Seems like it would take up valuable space.

I was thinking of maybe standing up black painted 2 liter bottles and then covering the 4x4 beds with a plastic sheet(shower curtain?) And removing the bottles once frost danger has passed... or maybe using some kind of ABS as a heatsink gotta research what might leach from it first.

[1stimestar]

Some people use them up here and they do work. *shrug*

[hunter63]

I use them for tomatoes and peppers, and they seem to work...
In the past I did a trial with some in the wall-o-waters and some out, planted at the same time, same type of plant.

I do fold them down, when it get hot.
Garden is a bit bigger, and there is no such thing as "wasted space'.....plants do need their room, you can crowd them but need to water and feed them heaver.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y139/hunter63/Pic9.jpg

[Rick]

If you just set up a frame and cover it with some clear plastic sheeting it will serve as a hot house for your young veggies.

[LowKey]

I refuse to spend good money on commercial stupid things like that. Maybe they work, but I bet you could come up with a lot more for a lot less.

If you want a mini green house, just cut the bottom off that soda bottle and put it over the plant. Instant cloche. You can even leave the cap off it to vent it.

Another thing that works good is that bubble wrap with the foil on it. I know it as greenhouse insulation but the hardware store may call it something else.

[Davidlastink]

I think the wall of water acts more as a night time radiator then a cloche, water heats in sun all day radiates it out at night.

I will mess around with a few ideas and see which comes out easiest/ most affordable, as it is I'm getting into microdrip irrigation this year and that in its self has been an interesting adventure.

[ClayPick]

They can save your stumps from late frost damage.

[hunter63]

Truth be told, I got the 'wall of waters" on clearance in the fall one year....and a "can't pass it up price....I would not pay full price.

Seem to last pretty well, had them for a long time, although a couple of 'cells" did get leaks in them....and if there are too many next to each other, hard to make them stand up.
They use many individual cells, kinda a trick to get them to stand up the first time....and use a hand sprinkler that the head broke...so cut it off, just leaving a tube and valve.

Just a word about soda bottles and milk jugs as mini hot houses.
My experience is that they seem to filter certain parts of the sun light....had many grow, but turned kinda "bronze colored"......that cleared up after removing them...but in effect seemed to stunt growth.
Bottom line is that any advantage you gained by planting early, was lost by this effect.

Maybe difference colored bottles or jugs would do differently?
Possibility a ring of water filled jugs or bottles around the plant, so as to provide a thermal mass and not filter out sunlight, might be an option?

As I already have the 'wall of waters", then seem to work, so that what I use.

A true gardener is one that tries stuff, and is asking and thinking all the time...."I wonder what would happen if I.......?
That's for y'all to try.

[Davidlastink]

Yeah I am messing around with a hoop house or some of of soda bottle heating setup that can be easily removed once the plants are hardy enough and temps up. Our growing season around me starts Late may, tried to grow some watermelons direct sow and the season was just not long enough, white fleshy watermelon is not yummy.

Just sowed some greens and have em covered with some reclaimed windows hope they germ, temps are still iffy around here even for greens.

Side note: Any one else use cinderblocks instead of wood to construct raised beds?

[Rick]

Melons do best in loose sandy soil. They are heavy feeders. They also need very warm soil. Don't set them out (if putting in plants) until the soil is 70F. You can use plastic mulch to help heat the soil. Water them in the morning using a soaker hose. Don't spray them. You don't want wet leaves after sunset. You should be able to grow them if you follow those rules.

Your windows should do just fine to keep the soil warm. Just don't let the air draft beneath them if you laid them flat. You'll want to keep still air beneath the window to keep the air warm.

Cinderblocks should work just fine. An added benefit is you can fill the holes in the blocks with sand and plant carrots in them. If you use sand or stone free dirt you'll have some nice, straight carrots.

[Solar Geek]

Re cinderblocks, how do you keep snakes from burrowing in the holes? Even with soil... I had built raised beds at our last place out of our left over logs from the log home and some 4" square cedar boards from HD. About 2 years later, of course some separation occurred and we had wasps nests and snakes happily living in the spaces. Just wondering if that would happen with the cinder block holes?

[Rick]

Snakes won't burrow but they will take advantage of holes they find. I have 4X4s I used for a raised bed and barn nailed in place. I've never had a problem with snakes or wasps. I have some decorative 4x4 trellises I put in the garden and I have had wasps build on those. They are also beneficial by taking insects in the garden. I leave them alone if they are in a place where I or the grand kids won't get in trouble. Otherwise, chemical warfare!

[hunter63]

Wasps like the eves of the cabin....ground yellow jackets and bumble bees like making ground nests....

[LowKey]

The soda bottles worked ok for small plants. Never had trouble with stunted growth. Bronzing of leaves usually means not enough Phosphorus. The idea was to keep the frost from settling on them. The soil was generally warm enough to keep things safe through a night, unless you get a really hard freeze.

I've used cinder blocks for border edging. But they are the half-thick ones without the holes. I've also used 8x18 pavers at an angle on edge. Now I prefer quarried 12-18" rick-rack with some wall stone mixed in. It's cheaper by the ton than concrete block or pavers.

You should start your carrots while the weather is still chilly. But not in soggy soil. I've never had luck with the sand trick. In the clay soil we have here, adding sand is like mixing a batch of concrete. It turns rock hard. I have a planting bed for carrots that I dug out a foot deep, then screened the soil through 1/2" hardware cloth, mixed the soil on the driveway with composted manure and some good loam, then refilled the hole. A carrot hitting a rock will split or twist. Even a small rock. A stocky carrot like Danvers half long grows better/straighter in the heavier soil than the spindly foot longs.

For early greens this time of year I direct sow Mache and Miners lettuce. They don't mind the cold at all and will even take a frost hit. The generic escarole does ok too, if you start it mid february here. It hates the summer heat so I grow it in spring and direct sow for the fall around end of July to mid august. Broccoli, cauliflower,cabbages and kales will take the spring cold too.

I have a lot of wasps around the garden. Paper wasps are ok by me. They eat the worms off the cabbages and don't seem to mind me working around where they are hanging out. I try not to bother the burrowing bees or the mason bees. Ground hornets/yellowjackets/whitetails get the chemicals. Those things are vicious.

[Davidlastink]

Well I tend to move the cinder-blocks around so not ideal for a permanent home after garden season is over, didn't find anything like snakes or wasps/bees.

Here are some pics of the beds I'm putting in and a grow box I'm playing with.



9105910691079108

9109

I flip the sod over face down then lay out the cinder-blocks Then I go in and work them tightly together packing around them in with dirt to make sure they are in place. Those end blocks are important for making sure everything is snug, you work them in really good and it locks the bed in place. Biggest pain is getting em lined up and level(ish), so they look nice. I have another larger bed which is out of view so its made form old blocks and isn't pretty, It gets less light also so I use it for planting greens.

I use peat moss in the initial mix and let it sit because its acidic and I heard that helps kill wire worms. Not that I have them but better safe than sorry, I'll then most likely will add lime and some more potting mix/topsoil/sand. One 3cu bag of peatmoss was more than enough for 2 4x4 beds. The stuff is also very dusty so I like to wet it down and work it into the mix.



Side question: Any one ever use gardenscape potting mix? I used the topsoil last year and it seemed ok this year the potting mix is same price as the topsoil.

[hunter63]

Looks good to me....nice looking.
MB uses block for compost bins, has three. 4 x4' X 5' high in a row.
End of season, takes down far left bin, moves to the right, and rebuilds...plants on the 5 ft square that was just vacated.

As far as I can tell, the difference between potting soil (sterilized) and top soil, (not sterilized).
Both may have foam beads a filler, and possibility fertilized added.

If you make your own sterilized soil (oven or micro wave)....make sure DW is shopping, or do it outside.

[Davidlastink]

heh. thanks for the advice

[Rick]

What are wireworms? Never mind, click beetles. I shoulda known.

[Davidlastink]

Yeah I didn't see any when prepping my beds and I went pretty deep when flipping the sod over. Just to be safe I will let the beds do their thing and then do a pH test to see if I need to add in lime. 2 days working on those beds is a nice work out though, I feel buff!

[Solar Geek]

The soda bottles worked ok for small plants. Never had trouble with stunted growth. Bronzing of leaves usually means not enough Phosphorus. The idea was to keep the frost from settling on them. The soil was generally warm enough to keep things safe through a night, unless you get a really hard freeze.

I've used cinder blocks for border edging. But they are the half-thick ones without the holes. I've also used 8x18 pavers at an angle on edge. Now I prefer quarried 12-18" rick-rack with some wall stone mixed in. It's cheaper by the ton than concrete block or pavers.

You should start your carrots while the weather is still chilly. But not in soggy soil. I've never had luck with the sand trick. In the clay soil we have here, adding sand is like mixing a batch of concrete. It turns rock hard. I have a planting bed for carrots that I dug out a foot deep, then screened the soil through 1/2" hardware cloth, mixed the soil on the driveway with composted manure and some good loam, then refilled the hole. A carrot hitting a rock will split or twist. Even a small rock. A stocky carrot like Danvers half long grows better/straighter in the heavier soil than the spindly foot longs.

For early greens this time of year I direct sow Mache and Miners lettuce. They don't mind the cold at all and will even take a frost hit. The generic escarole does ok too, if you start it mid february here. It hates the summer heat so I grow it in spring and direct sow for the fall around end of July to mid august. Broccoli, cauliflower,cabbages and kales will take the spring cold too.

I have a lot of wasps around the garden. Paper wasps are ok by me. They eat the worms off the cabbages and don't seem to mind me working around where they are hanging out. I try not to bother the burrowing bees or the mason bees. Ground hornets/yellowjackets/whitetails get the chemicals. Those things are vicious.

David loved your set up esp. the space blanket warmer! How big are your beds, 4x4 or larger? My 60 bags of Miracle Grow soil mix came today and I am itching to get moving but hey WE HAD SNOW today:0

[hunter63]

Just a note, shredded oak leaves buried in the bottom of your bed, helps keep out root maggots (radishes and carrots)......or if using rows, shallow trench, leaves, dirt seed.

They last a couple of years, takes a long time to break down.

[intothenew]

I've never used cinder block in a raised bed, maybe out of simple prejudice. I'm confident in saying they'll lower Ph near them. Maybe that's good, maybe that's bad. Maybe it's so small as to be insignificant. May be a good idea to periodically check Ph right next to them as the weeks roll on.

[Davidlastink]

4x4 beds, I also plan on using those square end blocks for herbs, So that tosses an extra square foot of space to em. The maths is something along these lines. 4x4=16 16x2= 32 100/12=.666 so then 32x.7 = 22.4 cubic feet of soil for both beds.

The grow box is an experimwent I hope works will post picks once the seeds germinate, if they do.

[Davidlastink]

hmm will have to check for that, as of today added 6lbs of gypsum (espoma) to my soil. Got clayish, dunno if it was just a bunch of rain lately or what but it should help make it more friable. I also ordered in a bag of greensand at the local agway since I didn't include any sand yet in the mix.

[intothenew]

Compost, peat, the oak leaves Hunter mentioned (organic fiber ) in that order is the friability gain. Especially inside the blocks:


Varieties of mint (Mentha spp.), including spearmint and peppermint, thrive in alkaline soil with a pH between 6.5 and 7.5. A small number of vegetables also grow in a soil with a relatively high pH, including asparagus, spinach, mushrooms, Jerusalem artichoke, watercress and leeks.


Source (http://homeguides.sfgate.com/ph-balance-herbs-vegetable-plants-61705.html)

Radish:


Prefers well-drained, loose soil, high in organic matter, free from stones, with pH 5.8 to 6.8. Needs plentiful, consistent moisture.

Source (http://www.gardening.cornell.edu/homegardening/scene341b.html)

Carrot:


a pH range of 6.0 to 6.8 should be maintained for best results.

Source (http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/1606.html)

Careful with the lime based border.

[Davidlastink]

thanks for the info.
I don't think the lime in the blocks will be a huge issues, Especially since they are set up on the upper section of a slope and have good drainage. I also am unsure of the solubility of the lime from the blocks in regards to soil uptake, I would think it woulds wash down and out of the bed, but I will keep an eye on it.

Agway offers free soil analyses around me so I will be taking my soil for testing about 2 weeks prior to planting. We have to wait till memorial day around here as it can get pretty cold up till then.

Edit: so far no sprouting on the grow box end of things, but I did see one little sproutling out in the bed I planted greens in, its on the row of Orach so cross fingers. It has been cold and perhaps I jumped the gun might have to resow some seeds in 2 weeks if I don't get any results.

[Rick]

Your county extension service will also provide soil testing. They may charge, however. It depends on the university they are affiliated with. You can do the canning jar test to get a quick and dirty idea of what your soil is composed of and at what %. Here's a linky that explains it. scroll toward the bottom.

http://www.rain.org/global-garden/soil-types-and-testing.htm

[Davidlastink]

thansk for the info Agway does it fo free so they can try and sell u amendments.

I added some Greensand to help with friability and it seemed to help so we will see.

Funny thing is I discovered an old tire covered over with plastic tarp and a wood panel, opened it up and found onions growing in a worm compost experiment I had forgotten to clean out. I transplanted em into a corner in the yard just cus those little buggers deserved it lol. The compost that was there seemed viable will maybe use it for some lavender or wildflowers in a pot or something dunno if I would want to use it in some hanging planters with tomatoes.

[Davidlastink]

Any one ever use Azomite? I hear good things and its been recommended to me by a neighbor.

[Rick]

You might also consider Nasturtiums (Tropaeolum majus) in your garden. They release a chemical that keeps aphids, squash bugs and striped pumpkin beetles at bay. They are a companion plant for tomatoes, cucumbers, kale kohlrabi, collards, broccoli, cabbage, and radishes. However, it doesn't bother most bees (win/win). Not only that but the leaves of the Nasturtium have a very nice peppery flavor and are just about the right size for a hamburger. The flowers have a very sweet flavor followed rapidly by a sharp, hot flavor. It's pretty funny to watch someone eat the flower for the first time. They get a pleasant look followed by a WTH look.

[ClayPick]

Krilium is what you need.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gaf8ozhnXOM

[Davidlastink]

I have been using gypsum and greensand a little everyday and worked in good, seems to have done the trick nice friability and no crusting.

[ClayPick]

I usually recycle drywall whenever I can. Nothing like saving a buck. The limestone mine here sells pelletized gypsum and I’ve been meaning to try it.

[Davidlastink]

Yeah apparently they are the same thing, The pellet stuff is suppose to release slower and allow for better coating of the particles in the soil. The powder that you get off from drywall might make matters worse if not worked in very well. I only used 6lbs for 2 4x4 beds and with the sand seems to have done the trick.

Also I got sprouts and lettuce outside and all my oregano in the grow box. So hopefully the rest will come alone well.

[Davidlastink]

So all my lettuce planted along with some Kale and now Orach has started to sprout.

Added vermiculite to my mix after reading Mel's SFG book again and I have to say 10 gallons per each 4x4 bed (2 beds and still had some left over in a 4cu foot bag) and that soil might go flying away the stuff is all kinds of fluffy.

My major gripe is cost that stuff hurts when you shell out for it.

so my mix so far for my 2 4x4 beds

6 bags 1 cu foot topsoil $9
4 bags 1 cu foot potting soil $6
1 bag 3 cu foot Peat Moss $10
1 bag 6lbs Gypsum $9
24 lbs Espoma green sand (2/3 of a bag) $20
2 lbs Azomite $10
20 gallons (used 5 gallon bucket x4) Vermiculite almost an entire bag which is 4 cu feet $25
$89

Having PH tested will know results Monday I hope.

The rest of the left over material will be mixed together and used in my upside down planters.

[hunter63]

I like free my self.....
Started years ago with clay soil, and have been adding stuff to it for 30 years, it has turned out to be raised after all this time.

All yard waste gets composted except tomotoe vines, had a blight on them ine year...so I haul that to the yard waste place....but bring home free compost from there.

[Davidlastink]

Free is nice but I am guilty of going overboard I used straight earth from my yard and compost I had made and got ok results. This year I decided to go the extra mile and see if I could get some monsters growing. Also I let Mel get into my head a bit why shouldn't I be able to blow a weed out of my garden with a baby whisper? Lol but seriously even wet this soil is wicked easy to work with.

[Davidlastink]

Going to start making some bamboo trellises not sure what method I will use. A house around mu neighborhood has a woven wooden fence I fancy might make a woven trellis of sorts.

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[yellowcab]

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[yellowcab]

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[yellowcab]

реше (http://audiobookkeeper.ru/book/10765)458.3 (http://cottagenet.ru/plan/1069)ра�� (http://eyesvision.ru/lectures/336)PERF (http://eyesvisions.com/eyesight/6)журн (http://factoringfee.ru/t/1305628)изда (http://filmzones.ru/t/1244517)Берб (http://gadwall.ru/t/1239619)Jewe (http://gaffertape.ru/t/1104333)Girl (http://gageboard.ru/t/1097921)Jewe (http://gagrule.ru/t/1025366)Teat (http://gallduct.ru/t/1164006)Pete (http://galvanometric.ru/t/1552884)Tesc (http://gangforeman.ru/t/1481160)This (http://gangwayplatform.ru/t/1699954)Andr (http://garbagechute.ru/t/1374477)
Nina (http://gardeningleave.ru/t/1097385)Parv (http://gascautery.ru/t/1310377)Kapo (http://gashbucket.ru/t/1313564)Alfr (http://gasreturn.ru/t/1310861)Ambr (http://gatedsweep.ru/t/1296500)Ð*ужи (http://gaugemodel.ru/t/1369147)XVII (http://gaussianfilter.ru/t/1585547)Ð*апп (http://gearpitchdiameter.ru/t/1244309)Gill (http://geartreating.ru/t/1210921)Суха (http://generalizedanalysis.ru/t/1226642)ШатÑ� (http://generalprovisions.ru/t/1343897)КреÑ� (http://geophysicalprobe.ru/t/1352920)Larg (http://geriatricnurse.ru/t/1529137)Jane (http://getintoaflap.ru/t/1300230)Biga (http://getthebounce.ru/t/893518)
Лиха (http://habeascorpus.ru/t/1249447)Бело (http://habituate.ru/t/1239831)Will (http://hackedbolt.ru/t/1219574)М�Ме (http://hackworker.ru/t/1385126)Rims (http://hadronicannihilation.ru/t/1106059)журн (http://haemagglutinin.ru/t/1198443)вузо (http://hailsquall.ru/t/1240321)WWWR (http://hairysphere.ru/t/1140487)Заби (http://halforderfringe.ru/t/1305786)Jacq (http://halfsiblings.ru/t/1345965)Ян�о (http://hallofresidence.ru/t/1049282)и�ку (http://haltstate.ru/t/1221257)Adel (http://handcoding.ru/t/1245123)Niko (http://handportedhead.ru/t/1685639)Чубо (http://handradar.ru/t/1002145)
Ко�т (http://handsfreetelephone.ru/t/1226874)Garn (http://hangonpart.ru/t/1145063)Коро (http://haphazardwinding.ru/t/1047387)Loui (http://hardalloyteeth.ru/t/831698)Robe (http://hardasiron.ru/t/846010)Jeff (http://hardenedconcrete.ru/t/1046441)Кра� (http://harmonicinteraction.ru/t/1055045)West (http://hartlaubgoose.ru/t/1198117)Кова (http://hatchholddown.ru/t/1322310)Modo (http://haveafinetime.ru/t/1547728)Спич (http://hazardousatmosphere.ru/t/1491841)Modo (http://headregulator.ru/t/1547784)Вале (http://heartofgold.ru/t/1556249)Supe (http://heatageingresistance.ru/t/1203083)Sela (http://heatinggas.ru/t/1547148)
Mati (http://heavydutymetalcutting.ru/t/1183228)Дари (http://jacketedwall.ru/t/813720)Фоки (http://japanesecedar.ru/t/941464)Пани (http://jibtypecrane.ru/t/1377320)Sidn (http://jobabandonment.ru/t/851476)Milo (http://jobstress.ru/t/1228531)Push (http://jogformation.ru/t/1141933)Черк (http://jointcapsule.ru/t/1224884)Гу�е (http://jointsealingmaterial.ru/t/1224492)Jame (http://journallubricator.ru/t/1354454)Henr (http://juicecatcher.ru/t/1223093)Modo (http://junctionofchannels.ru/t/1181114)Lalo (http://justiciablehomicide.ru/t/1182617)�ерт (http://juxtapositiontwin.ru/t/1187972)Sela (http://kaposidisease.ru/t/1180768)
Sela (http://keepagoodoffing.ru/t/1181852)Camp (http://keepsmthinhand.ru/t/841783)Pali (http://kentishglory.ru/t/1187832)Vent (http://kerbweight.ru/t/1189424)Гу�е (http://kerrrotation.ru/t/1022500)Ларм (http://keymanassurance.ru/t/838363)MODO (http://keyserum.ru/t/1181636)Zone (http://kickplate.ru/t/1549888)проф (http://killthefattedcalf.ru/t/1376595)Lame (http://kilowattsecond.ru/t/1136243)Slee (http://kingweakfish.ru/t/1510423)хоро (http://kinozones.ru/film/10765)Ви�к (http://kleinbottle.ru/t/1240707)XVII (http://kneejoint.ru/t/1312703)Fall (http://knifesethouse.ru/t/1711428)
Кузь (http://knockonatom.ru/t/1252260)Миха (http://knowledgestate.ru/t/1245211)Zone (http://kondoferromagnet.ru/t/1548995)редк (http://labeledgraph.ru/t/1377979)Zone (http://laborracket.ru/t/1549623)Zone (http://labourearnings.ru/t/1549482)Zone (http://labourleasing.ru/t/1548962)Zone (http://laburnumtree.ru/t/1191318)Кикн (http://lacingcourse.ru/t/1213432)Zone (http://lacrimalpoint.ru/t/1189643)тури (http://lactogenicfactor.ru/t/1346108)Zone (http://lacunarycoefficient.ru/t/1194460)Zone (http://ladletreatediron.ru/t/1192703)Zone (http://laggingload.ru/t/1190980)Zone (http://laissezaller.ru/t/1192641)
Zone (http://lambdatransition.ru/t/1192740)Zone (http://laminatedmaterial.ru/t/1194459)газо (http://lammasshoot.ru/t/1410696)Подо (http://lamphouse.ru/t/1214991)Zone (http://lancecorporal.ru/t/1185782)Naso (http://lancingdie.ru/t/1187203)Zone (http://landingdoor.ru/t/1189782)�нто (http://landmarksensor.ru/t/1566383)Chet (http://landreform.ru/t/1187656)Zone (http://landuseratio.ru/t/1186003)Nels (http://languagelaboratory.ru/t/1231558)хоро (http://largeheart.ru/shop/1159984)Pari (http://lasercalibration.ru/shop/152029)SETU (http://laserlens.ru/lase_zakaz/57)Мо�к (http://laserpulse.ru/shop/589191)

[yellowcab]

Nard (http://laterevent.ru/shop/1030775)Sams (http://latrinesergeant.ru/shop/451384)Прои (http://layabout.ru/shop/99529)Spit (http://leadcoating.ru/shop/24980)Clin (http://leadingfirm.ru/shop/68533)Miss (http://learningcurve.ru/shop/196034)Фран (http://leaveword.ru/shop/145119)Wind (http://machinesensible.ru/shop/101360)4230 (http://magneticequator.ru/shop/195042)Debo (http://magnetotelluricfield.ru/shop/145790)Форм (http://mailinghouse.ru/shop/65122)Mist (http://majorconcern.ru/shop/268121)Кита (http://mammasdarling.ru/shop/154890)Myst (http://managerialstaff.ru/shop/159212)ARAG (http://manipulatinghand.ru/shop/613014)
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[yellowcab]

negativefibration (http://negativefibration.ru)keepsmthinhand (http://keepsmthinhand.ru)obstructivepatent (http://obstructivepatent.ru)factoringfee (http://factoringfee.ru)learningcurve (http://learningcurve.ru)salestypelease (http://salestypelease.ru)observationballoon (http://observationballoon.ru)laissezaller (http://laissezaller.ru)referenceantigen (http://referenceantigen.ru)telescopicdamper (http://telescopicdamper.ru)labeledgraph (http://labeledgraph.ru)geriatricnurse (http://geriatricnurse.ru)killthefattedcalf (http://killthefattedcalf.ru)rectifiersubstation (http://rectifiersubstation.ru)leadingfirm (http://leadingfirm.ru)
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