New toy

[canid]

I finally got myself a 20lb propane cylinder and a harbor freight weed-burner type torch. I know these torches aren't terribly well suited for use in forges (though many people have made them work) but I figure:
1.) the burner tip aside, I got a $10 hose and a $10 adjustible valve with a hand-lever that opens it up all the way for $20.
2.) should it be necessary I could either make a proper burner that threads on where the original one is or just modify the original.

I'll probably be getting the cylinder filled tomorrow, so if there's interest I'll try to take some video.

[canid]

Here's a quick clip to show what I've been working with, and what I bought.


http://youtu.be/frApA6hDlLQ

Yes; I know. I need to clean my shop again.

[crashdive123]

I used a very similar set up for a while.

[canid]

neat trivia: those firebricks are some of the ones I was digging up out of the vegetable garden. I'm starting to think they used them (and a lot of the 60 or so year old garbage I've also found) as fill when they build this neighborhood.

[rebel]

They're good for starting the camp fire/ BBQ/ too!

[canid]

I made it to the propane vendor this morning so here is what I've got to work with now:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zgdqzcKgzUk

[canid]

One piece of advice for anybody who tries this: sand the passivated plating off of the burner. It will start flaking off with much use anyway, but it may contain hazardous metals.

As always, work in a properly ventilated area.


http://youtu.be/dLwVgA_QX1U

the lighting seems to make the steel look way too cold, but actually it wasn'ht bad. I should have heated a little further, but I was within working range.

[crashdive123]

Cool stuff. The audio on your video is proof that there are aliens among us.

[canid]

Results:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/blacksmithing/2012-11-17_13-58-29_275.jpg

[Stiffy]

Please keep the information coming. If I progress to raw steel (right now I'm finishing the handles on a knifekit blade), I will probably go with something like you're making.

[canid]

If you're light on funds, or not sure you want to invest heavily at first, the sledge hammer anvil and weed-burner forge are among the best cheap methods I've come across.

You can build a better burner for about the same cost as the weed burner, but you still need hoses, and a valve, and dependnig on the design of the burner, a regulator. the weed-burner comes with everything you need but the propane cylinder and the bricks.

[crashdive123]

Nicely done.

[canid]

http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/2012-11-18_19-28-43_74.jpg

[canid]

Here is the forge with the stand I rigged up:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/blacksmithing/2012-11-19_15-25-43_333.jpg

and this is were that smaller wakizashi is at as of today:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/2012-11-20_16-22-15_339.jpg
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/knives/2012-11-20_16-22-02_687.jpg

Getting down to a clean, crisp shinogi is such a painstaking process. I do not yet have the hammer control needed to avoid getting any dings in that region of the blade while forging.

[Bush Monkey]

Cool thread. Thank you.

[Stiffy]

I've been looking at new weed burners on Amazon. They start at around 100,000 BTU, but go as high as 500,000. I'm wondering if the 100,000 btu is adequate for a setup like yours.

[canid]

That will depend on what you want to do. It would certainly be plenty for small to medium knives, and would likely be enough for swords, as long as your starting stock is dimensionally close ( e.g. I have been starting with 1/4" x 1" bar instead of something bigger, like 1" x 1" since it's large enough and heats faster).

before getting this, I was doing the same work with 1 and 2 of these: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202185038/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=propane+torch&storeId=10051#.UK5b_OSw_Sk

You happen to have a harbor freight near you? This is the one I got:http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Propane-Torch-Wand-Ice-Snow-Melter-Weed-Burner-Roofing-Torch-/390497331830?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5aeb746a76

but Harbor freight has them on sale for 19.99

It is claimed to be 500kBTU, but I am not really convinced that the claims or ratings on cheap chinese imported tools translate to honest measurements of the tool's performance.

[Stiffy]

Thanks. If I make the leap, I'll be working with 1/8 or 5/32 steel, no more than a foot long and no more than 1/1/2 inch wide. Probably 1080 or 1084, to keep it simple.

[RandyRhoads]

What type of steel are you using for the swords, it almost looks like a hollow shower curtain rod. This thing really gets hot enough to fold and do everything you need?

[canid]

I'm not forge welding. I'm using mild steel tube partially flattened at one end as a holder for my stock. It does a good job of damping the shock, and gives me a nice long handle. The stock for the swords and other big blades is cut from 1/4" x 2" 5160. For the swords that allows me to cut a piece into two trapezoids that taper from about 1 1/8" to 7/8" and work from there.

It gets plenty hot for forging. With an improved burner it certainly could be made to forge weld.

[RandyRhoads]

So these swords are for show only? Mild steel isn't for blades right? So it has to be modified to forge weld, it can't out of the box?

[canid]

The swords aren't mild steel (though you could certainly make a functional sword from mild steel, though it would not have a durable edge, or much spring to it. Many swords through the ages have been made from bronze, soft iron and soft steel). The bar I use to hold my stock is mild steel. The blades, as I said are 5160. That's spring steel, and pretty darned tough. It's what automotive leaf springs are made from. Great material for large, functional blades like choppers and swords. Nepali Kukris are usually made from it (from actual junked leaf springs).

[canid]

For contrast, while a good carbon steel or tool steel is optimal, I would for example much rather see a soft steel sword than a stainless like cheaply made 440c blades, like are common at flea markets in cheap replica swords. The latter steel is just way too brittle for a sword at a reasonable hardness. At least a soft, ductile blade is easy to fix and straighten. you can't straighten 'broken' back out.

[RandyRhoads]

Ok. Guess ill practice with this mild steel. I'm surprised at how quick the propane goes. About how many tanks do you go through for a sword? Any chance of you making a video of making one?

[canid]

when I was using the little 1lb bottles with the plumbers torch, it's be about 2, but the work was very slow. With the weed burner, I could probably get 3 swords from a 20lb tank, start to finish. I haven't been paying enough attention to my fuel consumption, which is a shame because that's exactly what I had intended to do.

I've got a full size katana just barely started, so I'll take some video for you when I have a chance, being sure to show everything.

[canid]

If you're going through a 20lb tank fast, dial the fuel back and have more patience. the first 2/3 of the heat seems to take forever, but these weed burners burn richer the further open you have the flame, meaning you're throwing more of the gas right away.

of course, your burner and mine might vary substantially too. which one do you have?

[Rick]

Canid, I know zip about forging but your end products speak for themselves. Very nice stuff indeed.

[RandyRhoads]

I agree you have some beautiful looking Work. I have the $20 one from Harbor freight it has to be lit manually. I Only flattening tiny bit with mine and I feel like I'm almost halfway out of propane 20 pounds. So low setting left on for longer would be better? Even with high heat after 5 to 10 minutes I couldn't get it past orange. A video would be awesome.

[canid]

maybe adjusting your bricks would help then. I had to fiddle around a bit to get mine right.

[canid]

Here's my setup with the brick forge. These are actually just scrap bricks I had layin around. Mostly glazed red firebrick, but to be honest, both brick types seem to hold up just as well at these temps, both cracking a bit, but mostly holding together.

the base:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/blacksmithing/2013-02-14_13-33-21_866800x600_zps72b297ef.jpg

one side up:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/blacksmithing/2013-02-14_13-33-37_855800x600_zps294c6357.jpg

other side up:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/blacksmithing/2013-02-14_13-33-58_154800x600_zpsde4dbd6d.jpg

top on from front:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/blacksmithing/2013-02-14_13-34-15_156800x600_zpsecca7022.jpg

top on from back:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/blacksmithing/2013-02-14_13-34-25_152800x600_zpsb78e5bd8.jpg

and showing burner position:
http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt106/canid/blacksmithing/2013-02-14_13-34-49_697800x600_zps59e52f9c.jpg

This arrangement makes the back end constricted. This creates some back pressure, which despite complaints I've seen from other users of this burner, does not seem to hurt much. It also increases mixing, since frankly this burner does not really mix the fuel/air flow all that well. It also exposes more surface area inside the forge to the flame, which can only increase heating efficiency as far as I'm concerned.

I try to adjust the flame level up just such that it isn't flaring out the front any more than it is from the back, and aim for a bit less so. Sometimes though, I get impatient and just crank it up a bit more.

You'll see what my setup looks like while it's running, and while I'm forging better when I get the video uploaded for you.

[RandyRhoads]

Thanks, if you think it will help I can copy your setup exactly. Honestly I want to give up. I wont, but i'm unmotivated by how hard this has been. Of course I didn't expect it to be easy or happen over night but man...a few hours of hammering to end up with...well...you'll see... My torch says it goes up to 3,500 degrees. I've tried different settings, different brick arrangements as far as exhaust holes, but still, I get to maybe bright red, never orange or yellow. A few hammer blows to slightly move some metal and it's back to cold and black again. I don't get it. I look inside and my bricks are all glowing red. After hours of heating and hammering I finally gave up and started just walking around burning weeds around my place..haha...I'm thinking of building a forge out of a brake drum and a hair drier for a blower, but it seems like if I can't get a prope torch to work how will I get coal and wood to work..


Here's my set up
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q754/WildernessMedic/Blacksmithing/DSCN2894_zpsfbfa63af.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q754/WildernessMedic/Blacksmithing/DSCN2895_zps2cd34357.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q754/WildernessMedic/Blacksmithing/DSCN2896_zps108f88a6.jpg

I was using this 1" square mild steel for practice
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q754/WildernessMedic/Blacksmithing/DSCN2897_zps34fae3c9.jpg


After a few hours of trying to make a pickaxe head all I was able to do was flatten one end and draw down for an edge. I thought after all that hammering I finally welded the tube together, but the next day I saw it still wasn't one peice....

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q754/WildernessMedic/Blacksmithing/DSCN2898_zps5690b092.jpg

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q754/WildernessMedic/Blacksmithing/DSCN2899_zps48e6abe8.jpg

[RandyRhoads]

Just saw you're right across the way from me in Modesto. Just curious if you might be the guy my buddy said he found someone there selling 1095, that isn't you is it??

[canid]

It might just be you are expecting too much movement from a hammer blow. unless you're using a power-hammer, it's a subtle, slow process, and learning to judge how much you can try to do at a time, as well as how much you can do in a given heat takes time.

How dark is it when you are trying to guage the heat color? I find the best working environment is indoors (or at the very least; fully shaded) with consistent light levels, preferably just barely bright enough to read by.

I can see you do have the same HF burner I do. What weight hammer are you using?

as for forge welding, are you using flux? the best ability of that burner is probably just shy of capable for forge welding. You could probably improve it by feeding a flow or forced air into one of the inlets on the side of the burner. Bottled O2 from an appropriate nozzle would sure as shoot get you there. You'll know you're in the right range when your heat color is in the yellow, just starting to look as much white as orange. It should also be noted that some steels forge weld easy, and some are a gigantic pain the the anvil. I've never had much luck with it yet, and aim to fix that as soon as I can.

[canid]

No, I'm not selling any steel. In fact, I'm about due to buy another order from Aldo.

On a side note; the vid I took for you is taking it's sweet time uploading, but it's about 2/5 of the way along.

[crashdive123]

Instead of starting out with square tube, you might want to try flat or round stock.

[RandyRhoads]

Instead of starting out with square tube, you might want to try flat or round stock.

I started with flat stock (you can see it in the middle picture of the tubing) and had worse luck than with the tube. But tonight I will give the flat another try.

[RandyRhoads]

It might just be you are expecting too much movement from a hammer blow. unless you're using a power-hammer, it's a subtle, slow process, and learning to judge how much you can try to do at a time, as well as how much you can do in a given heat takes time.

How dark is it when you are trying to guage the heat color? I find the best working environment is indoors (or at the very least; fully shaded) with consistent light levels, preferably just barely bright enough to read by.

I can see you do have the same HF burner I do. What weight hammer are you using?

as for forge welding, are you using flux? the best ability of that burner is probably just shy of capable for forge welding. You could probably improve it by feeding a flow or forced air into one of the inlets on the side of the burner. Bottled O2 from an appropriate nozzle would sure as shoot get you there. You'll know you're in the right range when your heat color is in the yellow, just starting to look as much white as orange. It should also be noted that some steels forge weld easy, and some are a gigantic pain the the anvil. I've never had much luck with it yet, and aim to fix that as soon as I can.

I'm doing this all at night so I can see the colors better. As for the hammer i've used small cross peens, and all the way up to maybe 5#. Just a guess, they are very old and I have no idea. I'm thinking of making this forge out of an old brake drum, rather than trying more things with this. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqqbvRTvWbk I don't know if i'm expecting to much but i've watched a few people doing this and although they have way more experience I can't believe they could move THAT much steel in 30 seconds compared to my hours of hammering.

[canid]

Here you go:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qxIzZeLc3NU

As you can see, 27 minutes doesn't necessarily get a whole heck of a lot accomplished. I'd love the work to go faster, but I'm content to take my time and take care anyway.

[RandyRhoads]

You look very professional sitting there drinking your coffee haha... I see you're like me, watching a pot of water waiting for it to boil.

I'm stunned. i'm only a quarter of the way through the video but so far the steel looks darker than mine when you're hammering. How did you make the bend in you're stock flatbar to get that katana shape? Turn it sideways and hammer the edge a little at a time?

[canid]

First: the coffee. Canid doesn't get nothing done without a healthy supply of coffee.

Second: the color. The video shows the heat as a pale, whitish glow. It is in person a faint orange, faint because of the lighting. It screws the colors up bigtime, though I did notice that if I used that camera and trained myself to the way it shows colors, I could probably do a better job of gauging the forging heat by it than by eye, since It seems to show the heat as varying intensity of white glow rather than changing ranges of yellow/red and brightness.

Finally: the form. I generally do a pass along each side of the blade edge (to keep it symetrical, and to help fight off twisting, then do a pass down the back flats, to create the beginnings of the shinogi, and make the flats (which are actualy pretty bumpy at this point) taper towards the blade edge, and the mune edge. You may notice that I don't set it flat down to the anvil surface, but keep it tilted so the edge I'm trying to thin to a taper is canted down a bit. I hold the hammer such that it's face mirrors this angle, effectively 'pinching' the edge with each blow. Several rounds of this create a pretty decently formed sunobe (blade pre-form). The degree that I taper out the mune edge helps to correct some of the excessive sori (curvature) which develops, but I invariably have to correct more of it by laying the back along the stump and striking the blade edge (while it's still pretty thick).

Once I've got it as far along as I can get it (I fairly often only have the skill and patience to forge about 60-75% to finish) then it is pretty much down to a whole bunch of filing (at least while my belt grinder is out of action) and then hand sanding, then polish, heat treat procedures and final sanding and polish.

[canid]

To get a feel for the way steel moves under the hammer, and on the anvil, a trick I once read was to make some little 'bars' out of modeling clay or playdough. Practice striking them lightly with something like a wooden mallet of the shape of your hammer and watch the way the clay squishes out from under the mallet. Hot steel will do just about the same thing, except that it won't move as much material in a blow, and will of course require more force.

[canid]

I need to get back to work on an articulated camera holder for my phone, so I can get it right there by me when I'm taking video of close-in work.

[RandyRhoads]

Get a GoPro with the headstrap, then we can see everything you see. I'll try some clay bars for practice. How hard is it correcting mistakes? Say that I flattened and feathere something out and wanted it back in a flatbar shape, should I just start with a fresh peice or can you get it back square?

Thanks for taking the tiem to upload that video. On the second half now. My internet takes forever.

[canid]

making it square again will be various degrees of easy depending on how much you flattened it out. Say you flattened it to more than a 2:1 aspect, it will be very difficult. 3:2 would be easier, but your resulting square section can easily end up smaller in dimension than you mean it to. It would be easier for the resulting section to end up the size of the smallest starting dimension on both sides (and resultantly, have elongates in the process), because the hammer will tend to spread metal out in all directions at least somewhat. Fine control of that kind of thing take a lot of practice.

[RandyRhoads]

Is there a purpose for the hammer strikes in the bang tap bang tap manner? I see this on a lot of blacksmithing videos? Also why do you sometimes use the log instead of the anvil?

[canid]

It helps set a rhythm, and it helps with alignment and blow placement. It's like lining up a shot. Probably not necessary to do it each time, but it can't hurt, and only doing it sometimes would break up the rhythm and concentration. It just feels natural to do it that way.

Stock and blow placement are especially important with the sledge anvil, since the surface is not flat. the slight dome makes the metal move a bit more efficiently, but it also magnifies error if your stock isn't right were you mean it to be or your hammer doesn't fall where you mean it to. consistently strike off to one side and your work might start twisting pretty quickly. This also makes it even more important to work both sides evenly. All in all it's still not too bad. It's a pretty fair trade off because having a flat face hammer and a flat anvil would necessitate stronger blows for a given hammer weight.

[canid]

Here's some boring video of the draw filing:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YdeRy18lluY

[RandyRhoads]

You make it look easy.

First off should my fire brick be cracking and breaking after each use? I thought the point of it was that they didn't do this. Kind of ticked they weren't cheap and took a lot of looking to find...

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q754/WildernessMedic/Blacksmithing/photo2_zps4af45014.jpg

Second, while I draw out and flatten my blade I start getting this biiig curve going on. When I try to straighten it like the tang it just stresses the spine, and blade edge, rather than straightening it back out. How can I fix this before I end up with a blade that's circled around 3 times before the end hahaha....

http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q754/WildernessMedic/Blacksmithing/photo3_zpsee4835b4.jpg

[canid]

Some cracking is to be expected, but if it is excessive, you might try ramping up the temp a little more slowly. Those refractory bricks are definitely on the pricey side to have to replace too often, and I found even the cheap glazed firebrick to work for me for normal forging temps.

i they crack but do not fall, it is certainly acceptable to continue using them. I do that. you could even wrap them in some hardware cloth or such to hold them together. What I've thought to do is to wrap them in that and then pack that over with a straw/mud mix and let it fully dry. That would make an even more durable forge.

Of course, good refractories might suit me even better, but I am a very poor smith so far :D

To avoid the excessive curvature, I find it best to straighten frequently (like with each pass), especially early when the edge hasn't been thinned down (and thence weakened) to much. I also, as I said, taper the other side towards the mune (spine). I think this problem (as much as for a good strength to weight ratio) is why the flats on japanese long blades are not parallel, and taper in that fashion.

Of course, after hammering on the developing blade edge to reduce the curvature, you will also have to correct the damage and warpage of the blade which results too. If you do it a little at a time, your warpage will be more minor. There is also a sweet spot in your heat range were this correction is best done. You don't for example want to hammer on he edge while it's at the top of the forging heat range, as you're likely to do more damage to the edge you're forming than correction of the curve.

May smiths keep a rather heavy, dense hardwood maul/mallet on hand for the curve correction, so it is prefomed 'wood on steel on wood' to minimize damage. This can help a lot.

[RandyRhoads]

Thanks, i'll make sure to straighten more frequently, hopefully I can get this one back a little more straight though.


I don't quite understand what you mean here..


I also, as I said, taper the other side towards the mune (spine). I think this problem (as much as for a good strength to weight ratio) is why the flats on japanese long blades are not parallel, and taper in that fashion.
.

And what do you mean "wood on steel on wood"? A wood mallet hits a steel blade on a wooden anvil? Lol...

[canid]

Yes. You can use the face of your anvil too, but I like a wooden surface better. I use the face of the log my anvil is embedded in.

[RandyRhoads]

**** this. After going through 2 anvils, 3 mallets, most of my fire bricks, and countless hours of pounding steel the ****ing tang breaks off. This is one pricey attempt of making something without even a piece of **** to show for it.

[canid]

Don't give up on it, just don't invest too heavily or quickly. Remember that this is a skilled trade which was traditionally apprenticed for a couple of years, and finally mastered by years of work as a journeyman.

[RandyRhoads]

Thanks for the encouragement. I was really mad about the tang breaking off, but i've already sawed some off, flipped it , and started from the other side. It's goign to be a lot shorter but it's not wasted. You were right about the steel, I tried sharpening the broken tang to get a feel for it, and it seems to be impossible to get a decent edge on.

[RandyRhoads]

Fear the mighty horse shoe blade.

Now seriously WTF I cannot get it to stay straight. Every time I hammer it to straighten ( which I find myself doing more than shaping), as soon as I go to feather out the blade it turns again. On top of that, my tang cracked again. Just when I was getting near finishing up my peice of crap, it breaks, again....
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q754/WildernessMedic/Blacksmithing/DSCN2902_zpsf2d67d68.jpghttp://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q754/WildernessMedic/Blacksmithing/DSCN2904_zps9443ceec.jpg

[crashdive123]

Maybe you are destined to become a scythe or sickle maker.

[RandyRhoads]

Maybe you are destined to become a scythe or sickle maker.


Hahaha...don't forget schimitar... It has a nice feel to it when you run down the street swinging it while screaming allahu akbar...:osama:

I'm starting to polish it up tosharpen, but it looks like I wont be able to get some of the deeper hammer marks out. I was afraid if I went back over it to get out the dings the tang would break completely off...:(http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q754/WildernessMedic/Blacksmithing/DSCN2906_zpsb5263e6d.jpg

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Reco (http://handsfreetelephone.ru/t/524884)Hiro (http://hangonpart.ru/t/769022)Pian (http://haphazardwinding.ru/t/565832)Anta (http://hardalloyteeth.ru/t/562719)�ерт (http://hardasiron.ru/t/567003)Somm (http://hardenedconcrete.ru/t/567673)Tras (http://harmonicinteraction.ru/t/568529)Титк (http://hartlaubgoose.ru/t/199689)Sela (http://hatchholddown.ru/t/602373)Во�т (http://haveafinetime.ru/t/795336)Пова (http://hazardousatmosphere.ru/t/396770)Munc (http://headregulator.ru/t/806724)Дегт (http://heartofgold.ru/t/1038200)Юфер (http://heatageingresistance.ru/t/557119)Glob (http://heatinggas.ru/t/1183343)
Favr (http://heavydutymetalcutting.ru/t/843816)Roxy (http://jacketedwall.ru/t/603638)Coll (http://japanesecedar.ru/t/607196)ELEG (http://jibtypecrane.ru/t/609189)Sela (http://jobabandonment.ru/t/605872)мело (http://jobstress.ru/t/605830)Alej (http://jogformation.ru/t/637731)орде (http://jointcapsule.ru/t/834075)Мохо (http://jointsealingmaterial.ru/t/1142308)Ð*оди (http://journallubricator.ru/t/786900)Морм (http://juicecatcher.ru/t/786771)Курь (http://junctionofchannels.ru/t/855314)Ирку (http://justiciablehomicide.ru/t/836285)Канн (http://juxtapositiontwin.ru/t/820549)иллю (http://kaposidisease.ru/t/830325)
Atul (http://keepagoodoffing.ru/t/771207)Rond (http://keepsmthinhand.ru/t/610909)Фили (http://kentishglory.ru/t/841148)Micr (http://kerbweight.ru/t/823327)4007 (http://kerrrotation.ru/t/607049)Zone (http://keymanassurance.ru/t/609798)Прон (http://keyserum.ru/t/883719)Char (http://kickplate.ru/t/479128)Фрол (http://killthefattedcalf.ru/t/679877)�ере (http://kilowattsecond.ru/t/607026)чи�т (http://kingweakfish.ru/t/610179)�пор (http://kinozones.ru/film/10217)diam (http://kleinbottle.ru/t/611995)Happ (http://kneejoint.ru/t/606424)Paul (http://knifesethouse.ru/t/889075)
Zone (http://knockonatom.ru/t/608691)�ере (http://knowledgestate.ru/t/611956)�ред (http://kondoferromagnet.ru/t/677041)Zone (http://labeledgraph.ru/t/1193388)отр� (http://laborracket.ru/t/767917)Roma (http://labourearnings.ru/t/895377)Lexi (http://labourleasing.ru/t/895286)Krzy (http://laburnumtree.ru/t/1003448)Erin (http://lacingcourse.ru/t/1071322)Shad (http://lacrimalpoint.ru/t/901151)фиан (http://lactogenicfactor.ru/t/1185903)�тих (http://lacunarycoefficient.ru/t/854367)учащ (http://ladletreatediron.ru/t/809653)Gust (http://laggingload.ru/t/833940)Март (http://laissezaller.ru/t/857330)
Alei (http://lambdatransition.ru/t/831961)Чурб (http://laminatedmaterial.ru/t/835711)безо (http://lammasshoot.ru/t/835230)�к�п (http://lamphouse.ru/t/953180)Auro (http://lancecorporal.ru/t/831995)Бали (http://lancingdie.ru/t/815113)Поти (http://landingdoor.ru/t/811930)8006 (http://landmarksensor.ru/t/1183739)Cape (http://landreform.ru/t/1047245)на�т (http://landuseratio.ru/t/856121)Luci (http://languagelaboratory.ru/t/1067934)хоро (http://largeheart.ru/shop/1782561)Прай (http://lasercalibration.ru/shop/1708420)mini (http://laserlens.ru/lase_zakaz/1618)Прои (http://laserpulse.ru/shop/1030346)

[yellowcab]

Gard (http://laterevent.ru)Bosc (http://latrinesergeant.ru/shop/452948)Chin (http://layabout.ru/shop/600957)Book (http://leadcoating.ru/shop/1327145)gyps (http://leadingfirm.ru/shop/462945)Ки�л (http://learningcurve.ru/shop/794492)Dali (http://leaveword.ru/shop/1026632)�рти (http://machinesensible.ru/shop/446989)Pola (http://magneticequator.ru/shop/861776)�рти (http://magnetotelluricfield.ru/shop/789414)Вы�о (http://mailinghouse.ru/shop/557810)Медв (http://majorconcern.ru/shop/788891)Olme (http://mammasdarling.ru/shop/1142704)VOLK (http://managerialstaff.ru/shop/613778)USSR (http://manipulatinghand.ru/shop/1175780)
Лива (http://manualchoke.ru/shop/1179338)�туд (http://medinfobooks.ru/book/143)Chan (http://mp3lists.ru/item/10217)пред (http://nameresolution.ru/shop/1486103)ки�т (http://naphtheneseries.ru/shop/1033816)Nado (http://narrowmouthed.ru/shop/462928)Stef (http://nationalcensus.ru/shop/1206808)Blan (http://naturalfunctor.ru/shop/861890)изоб (http://navelseed.ru/shop/454004)пла� (http://neatplaster.ru/shop/460263)Wind (http://necroticcaries.ru/shop/186202)рабо (http://negativefibration.ru/shop/652112)mail (http://neighbouringrights.ru/shop/653179)кра� (http://objectmodule.ru/shop/471830)Соло (http://observationballoon.ru/shop/10527)
Slee (http://obstructivepatent.ru/shop/1032575)Gucc (http://oceanmining.ru/shop/570508)упак (http://octupolephonon.ru/shop/573292)Sumn (http://offlinesystem.ru/shop/150889)1708 (http://offsetholder.ru/shop/1254155)Amer (http://olibanumresinoid.ru/shop/288225)го�у (http://onesticket.ru/shop/583938)Drea (http://packedspheres.ru/shop/585217)Шило (http://pagingterminal.ru/shop/689451)Сере (http://palatinebones.ru/shop/690350)Ципо (http://palmberry.ru/shop/956297)допо (http://papercoating.ru/shop/682220)Тре� (http://paraconvexgroup.ru/shop/1049613)Злат (http://parasolmonoplane.ru/shop/1690988)Форм (http://parkingbrake.ru/shop/1176722)
Миха (http://partfamily.ru/shop/1378358)�льк (http://partialmajorant.ru/shop/1489659)Перц (http://quadrupleworm.ru/shop/1544886)Яким (http://qualitybooster.ru/shop/1606535)XVII (http://quasimoney.ru/shop/599643)Anat (http://quenchedspark.ru/shop/913480)Vasi (http://quodrecuperet.ru/shop/1149998)Wort (http://rabbetledge.ru/shop/1421502)Дубр (http://radialchaser.ru/shop/1458136)Elea (http://radiationestimator.ru/shop/517407)Саби (http://railwaybridge.ru/shop/863180)Калу (http://randomcoloration.ru/shop/930761)Бело (http://rapidgrowth.ru/shop/1078601)карт (http://rattlesnakemaster.ru/shop/1401248)прог (http://reachthroughregion.ru/shop/1503735)
Back (http://readingmagnifier.ru/shop/520957)К�рп (http://rearchain.ru/shop/879639)Воро (http://recessioncone.ru/shop/912602)XVII (http://recordedassignment.ru/shop/1654789)XVII (http://rectifiersubstation.ru/shop/1659994)Запа (http://redemptionvalue.ru/shop/1667905)мото (http://reducingflange.ru/shop/1689757)Горе (http://referenceantigen.ru/shop/1714131)Deli (http://regeneratedprotein.ru/shop/1773572)Иван (http://reinvestmentplan.ru/shop/1776987)Ritc (http://safedrilling.ru/shop/1822697)Hell (http://sagprofile.ru/shop/1828294)Зайц (http://salestypelease.ru/shop/1856057)Inte (http://samplinginterval.ru/shop/1881694)Теле (http://satellitehydrology.ru/shop/1918487)
Топо (http://scarcecommodity.ru/shop/1930985)молн (http://scrapermat.ru/shop/1950239)Кана (http://screwingunit.ru/shop/1963854)Форм (http://seawaterpump.ru/shop/1973386)Exod (http://secondaryblock.ru/shop/1462539)Сели (http://secularclergy.ru/shop/1497546)Mehl (http://seismicefficiency.ru/shop/1560610)Глад (http://selectivediffuser.ru/shop/1643923)Козл (http://semiasphalticflux.ru/shop/1679609)изда (http://semifinishmachining.ru/shop/1695243)mini (http://spicetrade.ru/spice_zakaz/1618)mini (http://spysale.ru/spy_zakaz/1618)mini (http://stungun.ru/stun_zakaz/1618)Бел� (http://tacticaldiameter.ru/shop/487750)Степ (http://tailstockcenter.ru/shop/1762132)
Jose (http://tamecurve.ru/shop/1772989)Шкл� (http://tapecorrection.ru/shop/1776208)Kenn (http://tappingchuck.ru/shop/491695)Enco (http://taskreasoning.ru/shop/504822)Дуще (http://technicalgrade.ru/shop/1855361)Mori (http://telangiectaticlipoma.ru/shop/1901778)XIII (http://telescopicdamper.ru/shop/1957956)кла� (http://temperateclimate.ru/shop/872843)Кова (http://temperedmeasure.ru/shop/922694)Зори (http://tenementbuilding.ru/shop/985860)tuchkas (http://tuchkas.ru/)Сапо (http://ultramaficrock.ru/shop/986461)wwwr (http://ultraviolettesting.ru/shop/488185)

[yellowcab]

�айт (http://audiobookkeeper.ru)�айт (http://cottagenet.ru)�айт (http://eyesvision.ru)�айт (http://eyesvisions.com)�айт (http://factoringfee.ru)�айт (http://filmzones.ru)�айт (http://gadwall.ru)�айт (http://gaffertape.ru)�айт (http://gageboard.ru)�айт (http://gagrule.ru)�айт (http://gallduct.ru)�айт (http://galvanometric.ru)�айт (http://gangforeman.ru)�айт (http://gangwayplatform.ru)�айт (http://garbagechute.ru)
�айт (http://gardeningleave.ru)�айт (http://gascautery.ru)�айт (http://gashbucket.ru)�айт (http://gasreturn.ru)�айт (http://gatedsweep.ru)�айт (http://gaugemodel.ru)�айт (http://gaussianfilter.ru)�айт (http://gearpitchdiameter.ru)�айт (http://geartreating.ru)�айт (http://generalizedanalysis.ru)�айт (http://generalprovisions.ru)�айт (http://geophysicalprobe.ru)�айт (http://geriatricnurse.ru)�айт (http://getintoaflap.ru)�айт (http://getthebounce.ru)
�айт (http://habeascorpus.ru)�айт (http://habituate.ru)�айт (http://hackedbolt.ru)�айт (http://hackworker.ru)�айт (http://hadronicannihilation.ru)�айт (http://haemagglutinin.ru)�айт (http://hailsquall.ru)�айт (http://hairysphere.ru)�айт (http://halforderfringe.ru)�айт (http://halfsiblings.ru)�айт (http://hallofresidence.ru)�айт (http://haltstate.ru)�айт (http://handcoding.ru)�айт (http://handportedhead.ru)�айт (http://handradar.ru)
�айт (http://handsfreetelephone.ru)�айт (http://hangonpart.ru)�айт (http://haphazardwinding.ru)�айт (http://hardalloyteeth.ru)�айт (http://hardasiron.ru)�айт (http://hardenedconcrete.ru)�айт (http://harmonicinteraction.ru)�айт (http://hartlaubgoose.ru)�айт (http://hatchholddown.ru)�айт (http://haveafinetime.ru)�айт (http://hazardousatmosphere.ru)�айт (http://headregulator.ru)�айт (http://heartofgold.ru)�айт (http://heatageingresistance.ru)�айт (http://heatinggas.ru)
�айт (http://heavydutymetalcutting.ru)�айт (http://jacketedwall.ru)�айт (http://japanesecedar.ru)�айт (http://jibtypecrane.ru)�айт (http://jobabandonment.ru)�айт (http://jobstress.ru)�айт (http://jogformation.ru)�айт (http://jointcapsule.ru)�айт (http://jointsealingmaterial.ru)�айт (http://journallubricator.ru)�айт (http://juicecatcher.ru)�айт (http://junctionofchannels.ru)�айт (http://justiciablehomicide.ru)�айт (http://juxtapositiontwin.ru)�айт (http://kaposidisease.ru)
�айт (http://keepagoodoffing.ru)�айт (http://keepsmthinhand.ru)�айт (http://kentishglory.ru)�айт (http://kerbweight.ru)�айт (http://kerrrotation.ru)�айт (http://keymanassurance.ru)�айт (http://keyserum.ru)�айт (http://kickplate.ru)�айт (http://killthefattedcalf.ru)�айт (http://kilowattsecond.ru)�айт (http://kingweakfish.ru)�айт (http://kinozones.ru)�айт (http://kleinbottle.ru)�айт (http://kneejoint.ru)�айт (http://knifesethouse.ru)
�айт (http://knockonatom.ru)�айт (http://knowledgestate.ru)�айт (http://kondoferromagnet.ru)�айт (http://labeledgraph.ru)�айт (http://laborracket.ru)�айт (http://labourearnings.ru)�айт (http://labourleasing.ru)�айт (http://laburnumtree.ru)�айт (http://lacingcourse.ru)�айт (http://lacrimalpoint.ru)�айт (http://lactogenicfactor.ru)�айт (http://lacunarycoefficient.ru)�айт (http://ladletreatediron.ru)�айт (http://laggingload.ru)�айт (http://laissezaller.ru)
�айт (http://lambdatransition.ru)�айт (http://laminatedmaterial.ru)�айт (http://lammasshoot.ru)�айт (http://lamphouse.ru)�айт (http://lancecorporal.ru)�айт (http://lancingdie.ru)�айт (http://landingdoor.ru)�айт (http://landmarksensor.ru)�айт (http://landreform.ru)�айт (http://landuseratio.ru)�айт (http://languagelaboratory.ru)�айт (http://largeheart.ru)�айт (http://lasercalibration.ru)�айт (http://laserlens.ru)�айт (http://laserpulse.ru)

[yellowcab]

�айт (http://laterevent.ru)�айт (http://latrinesergeant.ru)�айт (http://layabout.ru)�айт (http://leadcoating.ru)�айт (http://leadingfirm.ru)�айт (http://learningcurve.ru)�айт (http://leaveword.ru)�айт (http://machinesensible.ru)�айт (http://magneticequator.ru)�айт (http://magnetotelluricfield.ru)�айт (http://mailinghouse.ru)�айт (http://majorconcern.ru)�айт (http://mammasdarling.ru)�айт (http://managerialstaff.ru)�айт (http://manipulatinghand.ru)
�айт (http://manualchoke.ru)�айт (http://medinfobooks.ru)�айт (http://mp3lists.ru)�айт (http://nameresolution.ru)�айт (http://naphtheneseries.ru)�айт (http://narrowmouthed.ru)�айт (http://nationalcensus.ru)�айт (http://naturalfunctor.ru)�айт (http://navelseed.ru)�айт (http://neatplaster.ru)�айт (http://necroticcaries.ru)�айт (http://negativefibration.ru)�айт (http://neighbouringrights.ru)�айт (http://objectmodule.ru)�айт (http://observationballoon.ru)
�айт (http://obstructivepatent.ru)�айт (http://oceanmining.ru)�айт (http://octupolephonon.ru)�айт (http://offlinesystem.ru)�айт (http://offsetholder.ru)�айт (http://olibanumresinoid.ru)�айт (http://onesticket.ru)�айт (http://packedspheres.ru)�айт (http://pagingterminal.ru)�айт (http://palatinebones.ru)�айт (http://palmberry.ru)�айт (http://papercoating.ru)�айт (http://paraconvexgroup.ru)�айт (http://parasolmonoplane.ru)�айт (http://parkingbrake.ru)
�айт (http://partfamily.ru)�айт (http://partialmajorant.ru)�айт (http://quadrupleworm.ru)�айт (http://qualitybooster.ru)�айт (http://quasimoney.ru)�айт (http://quenchedspark.ru)�айт (http://quodrecuperet.ru)�айт (http://rabbetledge.ru)�айт (http://radialchaser.ru)�айт (http://radiationestimator.ru)�айт (http://railwaybridge.ru)�айт (http://randomcoloration.ru)�айт (http://rapidgrowth.ru)�айт (http://rattlesnakemaster.ru)�айт (http://reachthroughregion.ru)
�айт (http://readingmagnifier.ru)�айт (http://rearchain.ru)�айт (http://recessioncone.ru)�айт (http://recordedassignment.ru)�айт (http://rectifiersubstation.ru)�айт (http://redemptionvalue.ru)�айт (http://reducingflange.ru)�айт (http://referenceantigen.ru)�айт (http://regeneratedprotein.ru)�айт (http://reinvestmentplan.ru)�айт (http://safedrilling.ru)�айт (http://sagprofile.ru)�айт (http://salestypelease.ru)�айт (http://samplinginterval.ru)�айт (http://satellitehydrology.ru)
�айт (http://scarcecommodity.ru)�айт (http://scrapermat.ru)�айт (http://screwingunit.ru)�айт (http://seawaterpump.ru)�айт (http://secondaryblock.ru)�айт (http://secularclergy.ru)�айт (http://seismicefficiency.ru)�айт (http://selectivediffuser.ru)�айт (http://semiasphalticflux.ru)�айт (http://semifinishmachining.ru)�айт (http://spicetrade.ru)�айт (http://spysale.ru)�айт (http://stungun.ru)�айт (http://tacticaldiameter.ru)�айт (http://tailstockcenter.ru)
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[yellowcab]

Свар (http://audiobookkeeper.ru/book/9304)179.8 (http://cottagenet.ru/plan/820)взгл (http://eyesvision.ru)This (http://eyesvisions.com)Кузь (http://factoringfee.ru/t/1389356)Шан� (http://filmzones.ru/t/1379973)Иллю (http://gadwall.ru/t/1491938)И�ае (http://gaffertape.ru/t/1321518)Дебю (http://gageboard.ru/t/1232842)Meet (http://gagrule.ru/t/1040068)журн (http://gallduct.ru/t/1612128)Свит (http://galvanometric.ru/t/1659195)Danc (http://gangforeman.ru/t/1678675)Litt (http://gangwayplatform.ru/t/1702938)Герл (http://garbagechute.ru/t/1631221)
Широ (http://gardeningleave.ru/t/1445748)(Ð�ик (http://gascautery.ru/t/1760138)лири (http://gashbucket.ru/t/1612207)With (http://gasreturn.ru/t/1751735)Ð�ниÑ� (http://gatedsweep.ru/t/1384745)прин (http://gaugemodel.ru/t/1829749)убюй (http://gaussianfilter.ru/t/1708242)фило (http://gearpitchdiameter.ru/t/1377802)Char (http://geartreating.ru/t/1377551)Ветл (http://generalizedanalysis.ru/t/1373698)Пого (http://generalprovisions.ru/t/1439059)Coup (http://geophysicalprobe.ru/t/1554118)музы (http://geriatricnurse.ru/t/1553548)Wind (http://getintoaflap.ru/t/1564153)Ð*оди (http://getthebounce.ru/t/1254039)
Farl (http://habeascorpus.ru/t/1381664)англ (http://habituate.ru/t/1372673)Фило (http://hackedbolt.ru/t/1369752)Roch (http://hackworker.ru/t/1685681)Дубр (http://hadronicannihilation.ru/t/1354570)Дави (http://haemagglutinin.ru/t/1355614)Кр�т (http://hailsquall.ru/t/1373400)�ИСу (http://hairysphere.ru/t/1378641)при� (http://halforderfringe.ru/t/1379661)филь (http://halfsiblings.ru/t/1550424)Gilb (http://hallofresidence.ru/t/1383449)и�ку (http://haltstate.ru/t/1499443)�леш (http://handcoding.ru/t/1491847)�лма (http://handportedhead.ru/t/1700190)Царе (http://handradar.ru/t/1563256)
Вла� (http://handsfreetelephone.ru/t/1613544)Norm (http://hangonpart.ru/t/1383926)Фе�у (http://haphazardwinding.ru/t/1375932)теор (http://hardalloyteeth.ru/t/1242389)Marc (http://hardasiron.ru/t/1067087)XVII (http://hardenedconcrete.ru/t/1294993)Степ (http://harmonicinteraction.ru/t/1360304)�ни� (http://hartlaubgoose.ru/t/1306503)Стан (http://hatchholddown.ru/t/1459181)Char (http://haveafinetime.ru/t/1548160)Circ (http://hazardousatmosphere.ru/t/1548195)Four (http://headregulator.ru/t/1548201)ин�п (http://heartofgold.ru/t/1645039)Хри� (http://heatageingresistance.ru/t/1370849)Селе (http://heatinggas.ru/t/1586637)
дати (http://heavydutymetalcutting.ru/t/1307458)Ефим (http://jacketedwall.ru/t/853233)1910 (http://japanesecedar.ru/t/1244937)Ð*рми (http://jibtypecrane.ru/t/1695480)Бала (http://jobabandonment.ru/t/1243078)XVII (http://jobstress.ru/t/1382303)ФирÑ� (http://jogformation.ru/t/1252256)мушк (http://jointcapsule.ru/t/1384168)Ð�ата (http://jointsealingmaterial.ru/t/1369865)Вайн (http://journallubricator.ru/t/1582638)Тара (http://juicecatcher.ru/t/1343911)ОÑ�Ñ‚Ñ€ (http://junctionofchannels.ru/t/1353125)Павл (http://justiciablehomicide.ru/t/1248719)запи (http://juxtapositiontwin.ru/t/1240697)Февр (http://kaposidisease.ru/t/1245753)
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[yellowcab]

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[yellowcab]

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