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View Full Version : How I make a blade (or several) Tutorial



Scottishsmith24
09-19-2012, 08:44 AM
Hello all! I saw many excellent tutorials on this forum, especially from CrazyDrive, and thought I might throw my two cents in just in case someone might get an idea from one of my methods. So enough jibber jawin here is my method. Now I'd just like to note before we get into all the details that I am a blacksmith and bladesmith so having an understanding of swinging a hammer is helpful when attempting a process like this one. Okay so with that out of the way let's get down to business... It is important almost any time you start a project to have some specs or diagrams, etc. Like all projects I started with a rough design that became more specific, and if you follow your design it almost doesn't matter whether you make your guard first or the blade or your sheath etc. it should all end up coming together, if you follow your PLAN. So here is my original design followed by the full design: 83138314 Next I transfer the cut out paper model to a steel bar to have as a sizing reference while forging: 8315 The next step, at least in the case of this project, was to prepare the stock. Since these knives are going to take a beating how only people who love the outdoors can give these knives have to be resistant to bending, breaking, and corrosion; so I decided to use 5160. I only had 3 inch wide by 1/4 inch bars so I have to forge them down to size. I cut the bars into 10 inch long sections to have enough material for five knives. This process took about 1.5 hours. 83168317

Scottishsmith24
09-19-2012, 08:59 AM
One of the reasons that is took 1.5 hours to prepare the stock is because I was only hammering by hand. If you have access to a power hammer and know how to use it, or know someone that does, this process could take as little as 15 minutes for both bars. Here are the rest of the photos of drawing out the bars:83198318 After the bars have been drawn out the material is still roughly 1/4 inch thick but it won't be perfectly flat again until later on in the process. The resulting bars are now roughly 18 inches long each.[ATTACH=CONFIG]8320 The next step is forging the point. I like to do this step next because as you compact the material to form the point while maintaining the same thickness the piece you are working on becomes longer. This is important to remember because if you start working on the tang first and then your blade the blade will most likely end up being longer then you intended and you will have to remove more material. When I am forging a point for a more clipped point that these knives will have I start the clip at about a 30 degree angle while keeping the stock flat against the anvil. I then stop forging the point about a 1/4-1/2 inch before the point is flush with the anvil surface. If you leave this extra material it will make it a lot easier to give the blade that desired upswing at the point where the blade meets the clip or false edge. 8321 When you are forging the edge this straight edge will curve upward into the desired shape.

Scottishsmith24
09-19-2012, 09:12 AM
The next step is kind of a combination of two steps in one. What you want to do is start forging the bevels. What you have to do for this is cock your wrist so that the stock (on the flat/wide side) is on a 15 degree slant meeting the anvil face. You then hammer the edge at approximately a 15 degree angle this results in two bevels that are roughly equal. It will also result in a distal taper which will add strength to your blade, with the added benefit of giving you a guide to match your angles while draw filing or grinding. The other step I like to do at this time is to mark where I want the blade to stop. To do this take the 1/4 thick side of your stock and let it hang over the anvil face. The edge of the anvil marks where the blade will be stopping, so make sure to measure your blade first! The next thing you are going to do is strike down half on and half off the anvil face, directly over the edge. This creates the "step" that marks the end of the blade. I like to use chalk to mark my anvil with the dimensions of the blade so that I can check on it throughout the entire process. 832483238322

Scottishsmith24
09-19-2012, 09:24 AM
I nearly forgot to mention an important step when working with 5160. While I'm forging one blade I always have the other sitting on the back ledge of my forge to begin the annealing process. This keeps the steel at a nice and even 1100 degrees which allows it to relax the stress I just put in it from all that hammering.

So onto the next step: When making several knives at the same time that I want to be identical what I prefer to do is roughly forge the tang (in this case each knife will be a full tang) and then grind the profile in. This step is just more consistent and accurate for me when making a series of knives. (There are going to be ten of this one to start and I'm calling it my Striker series). These are the first four mid process. I only had time to fully forge two and start the blade on the third. 8325 And this is what the knife looks like pre-profiling: 8326 Followed by the one being fully profiled and the second partially profiled.8327 I hope to finish up the first five knives next week and update the tutorial each night. Currently I am away at Williamsburg, Jamestown, and Richmond, but I get back to work on these knives Sunday!

finallyME
09-19-2012, 01:28 PM
Thanks for the tutorial. I am enjoying it.

Winter
09-19-2012, 02:51 PM
Nice. Looking forward to the rest of this.

crashdive123
09-19-2012, 03:51 PM
Who is this CrazyDrive that you speak of? Looking forward to seeing the rest of your process.

Bush Monkey
09-19-2012, 10:11 PM
Interesting thread. Thanks for posting.

Scottishsmith24
09-23-2012, 04:37 PM
Thanks for all the interest guys! I just got back from my week away down at Williamsburg. Always meet cool people down there. I was able to get some more work done today and thought I would share some of my progress thus far.

There are two things you can do on the next step but it saves a lot of grinder belts no matter what you do. The next step is that you have to remove the scale. Some people pickle the steel in vinegar over night, but I just hit it with a wire wheel. After all the scale is removed I then use my belt sander to true up all the flats and remove any undesired hammer marks. 8343 After truing up the flats I use a new 50 grit belt to make the plunge lines, then I switch to an 80 grit belt to remove the deep scratches from the blade, and then the same with a 120 grit belt. From there it's all hand sanding. Here are a couple photos of all the knives together; so far today I finished the grinding on one and started to polish it, nearly finished grinding on the second one, and finally started to true up the flats on the 3rd and 4th knives.83458346 I apologize that the picture quality is poor the lighting is awful today.

Scottishsmith24
09-23-2012, 06:02 PM
I got to make a little more progress today, and I am officially calling it quits for today as well.8347

Scottishsmith24
09-24-2012, 11:09 AM
The work this morning...All of the knives are now ground and brought up to 120 grit sanding.8348 Now it's time for the hardening process. The basic process is heat up each blade to a bright orange (non-magnetic temperature) all the blade to have an even heat (So uniform color through out the blade), remove the blade from the forge and (as straight as possible) lower the blade into the awaiting oil. These blades are all edge quenched.8351834983508352

Scottishsmith24
09-24-2012, 11:14 AM
After hardening check for any warping and cracks in the blade (I was good on this one but you always have to check) and then into the oven. I will be putting these blades in at 375 for two cycles of two hours each. They are half way through their first cycle now.835383558354

Scottishsmith24
09-24-2012, 11:16 AM
Oh and sorry crashdive for misspelling your name I had a bit of a brain far there when reading your name :/

Winter
09-24-2012, 01:46 PM
Nice work. I like how they are all a little different. It's the mark of being handmade.

rebel
09-24-2012, 04:37 PM
Nice job and thanks for the toot! Y'all have a lot of talent.

Scottishsmith24
09-25-2012, 12:55 PM
Winter and Rebel, thanks for the kind words...here is some of my progress so far today I started cleaning them up at 120 grit and they will end up at 600 or 800 grit still deciding. Now in this picture it looks like the blade farthest on the left has a weird blade geometry but that is just a trick of the light.8360

Scottishsmith24
09-26-2012, 03:38 PM
Got some more work done today and I got some extra time to update the tutorial. So today I was able to finish up the blade on one of the knives 400 grit finish (hand rubbed) and then two phases of buffing.8361 The area of contrast behind the plunge line is texturing. I use a dremel engraving tool to rough up this area it helps the epoxy grip more when attaching the scales and bolsters. The next thing I had to do was rough cut the bolsters the material is 1/4 inch mild steel. (The other knives will have a combination of either brass, stainless steel, or mild steel bolsters) The first picture is are the rough drawn on guides and the second picture is the bolsters after being cut out. 83628363 I know they look extremely rough but that will all be fixed up shortly. The next step I had to do was prepare the scales. Now I'd like to mention that I like to save money whenever I can so I like to make my scales myself as opposed to having someone else make them. This takes a bit more time but I feel it's worth it. I started with two blocks of 5 inch by 1.5 inch of olivewood and rosewood8364 Next I cut them into 1/4 sections these will become the scales.8365

Scottishsmith24
09-26-2012, 03:46 PM
Here are the rough scales: 8366 Next I sand the scales flat with a 50 grit belt and then up to 120 grit8367 The next photo is the all of the scales with the knives.8368 Lastly I wanted to give more of an idea of how the wood pops. I had a scrap piece of olive wood that I sanded up to 800 grit you can see the difference is fairly drastic no?83698370

Winter
09-26-2012, 10:37 PM
I hope you can still drill the tangs,,lol.

Pretty wood man, they should be beautiful. Life is too short to carry an ugly knife.

Wingman
09-26-2012, 11:36 PM
Thanks for sharing I love the photo of the oven.

Scottishsmith24
09-27-2012, 09:09 AM
Winter, no worries on drilling the tangs. When I edge quench I wait until the spine and tang have cooled way past critical heat so you don't really get any martensite formation in the tang and the two cycles at 375 help to sure everything up.

Scottishsmith24
09-28-2012, 07:13 PM
I wasn't able to make as much progress as I wanted to today but I still wanted to post an update. I received a call from a customer today wanting one of these knives for her father's birthday but with an antler theme so I ended up spending a good portion of my work today on taking a 2.5 inch diameter piece of elk antler and turning it into scales for the knife. I was also able to finish up the ferro rod holder that will ride side saddle to the knife in the sheath; it also has an antler knob. The first thing I did today was make the knob (the one thing that everything went smoothly on :/ ) It's nice an easy. I took a 1 inch diameter chunk of white tail deer antler and drill a 1/4 inch hole into the center to accommodate the ferro rod and then drilled a 1/8 inch hole through the antler and ferro rod to place the pin and make everything nice and solid. Just as a warning the shavings from the ferro rod will spark (obviously but just for those of us who might forget such as myself) :p After everything is all pinned up I flip it arround and remove the bit from my drill press and insert the ferro rod into the jaws of the drill press just like a bit.8371 I call this the poor man's lathe, basically it;s just a nice way to even everything up quickly. I turned the drill press on and hit it with a flat file and then a triangular file to give it a couple groves and then used thin strips of sand paper to sand it up to 400 grit (This whole process took maybe 15-20 minutes). Then to finish it up I hit the antler with a torch and then some orange finish, leaving me with this...8372 It kind of reminds me of a marshmallow...I still might make some additions to it but that is how it stands now. Next came the bit of tackling the elk scales. I used my 4.5 inch angle grinder to cut it in half before refining it. The next pictures are steps in refining the scales.837583738374

Scottishsmith24
09-28-2012, 07:17 PM
Lastly here is the first knife all mocked up...I didn't like the finish on the blade so I am re-polishing it and I still need to drill the holes in the scales (hopefully tomorrow morning, fingers crossed)8376 As you can see there is still a lot of work left to be done not to mention the work on its three sister knives and their four sheathes but I'll get there!

Scottishsmith24
10-02-2012, 08:07 PM
I'm having trouble uploading new photos...does anyone know how I delete the old photos I uploaded to have more space to upload new ones?

Scottishsmith24
10-02-2012, 08:15 PM
Well here is the nearly complete knife still needs sheath and engravings. http://s1304.photobucket.com/albums/s526/scottishsmith24/?action=view&current=269191_491284047562813_1463835055_n_zps916 dc654.jpg

crashdive123
10-02-2012, 08:34 PM
Well done. If you copy and paste your photobucket img code you can post unlimited pictures. With the thumbnails you are limited in the quantity.

http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s526/scottishsmith24/269191_491284047562813_1463835055_n_zps916dc654.jp g

Scottishsmith24
10-02-2012, 08:46 PM
Thanks for the help Crashdive!

Scottishsmith24
10-04-2012, 02:40 PM
First one completely done and now for the other nine... http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s526/scottishsmith24/005_zps9f227164.jpg[IMG][IMG]

crashdive123
10-04-2012, 07:51 PM
Looks great.

Scottishsmith24
10-04-2012, 09:17 PM
Thanks Crash!

Scottishsmith24
11-08-2012, 08:44 PM
I know it has been a while since I updated this post but I wanted to hold back on finishing the knives until they had buyers and the last three all just found buyers. So here is the second one mostly finished I still need to do the sheath tomorrow though...pictures to follow. http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s526/scottishsmith24/DSCN3387.jpghttp://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s526/scottishsmith24/DSCN3390.jpghttp://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s526/scottishsmith24/DSCN3392.jpg

Scottishsmith24
11-30-2012, 09:28 PM
Well it has been a while but here is the next Striker knife all finished up and I actually have a picture with the sheath this time...Imistag scales, copper and mosaic pins with brass bolsters. http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s526/scottishsmith24/8760_516342671723617_1348792600_n.jpg

crashdive123
11-30-2012, 09:31 PM
Well done.

Scottishsmith24
12-02-2012, 12:19 AM
Thanks Crash!

ElevenBravo
12-02-2012, 11:34 AM
Wow! Very nice write up and a beautiful finished product!

Scottishsmith24
12-02-2012, 06:28 PM
Bravo, thank you for the kind words I'd like to make a more comprehensive tutorial on my next project...perhaps with some video? What do you think?

Skinner
12-04-2012, 01:12 AM
Really Nice Looking Blades there Scottishsmith24 ,and the Polish On the Blades Looks Great.Love the Antlered One.

Winter
12-04-2012, 01:51 AM
I have a few comments.

The handle pin holes are horrible. Find out what you are doing wrong. The handle fittings seem kinda crude.

The blades are amazing. The long distal taper, perfect points.

It looks like a master bladesmith made the blades and his kid put the handles on.

I was holding a straight edge up to my screen to verify what I saw. The false edge is perfectly straight on a distal tapered blade. Who else does that? Dan Fogg, Bill Bagwell?

Amazing work.

Scottishsmith24
12-04-2012, 11:36 AM
Haha well thanks Winter. I actually agree I feel that I am honestly pretty terrible at making handles and sheaths still but I swear that all parts were made by me :p The next knife I make I'm going to spend extra attention on the pin holes.

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yellowcab
12-19-2025, 08:34 PM
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yellowcab
12-19-2025, 08:35 PM
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yellowcab
03-18-2026, 11:41 PM
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yellowcab
03-18-2026, 11:42 PM
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yellowcab
05-29-2026, 05:49 AM
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yellowcab
05-29-2026, 05:50 AM
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