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View Full Version : Lemme axe you a question (axe oiling)


steelnwool
07-04-2011, 10:07 AM
For fathers day I got a Gransfors Bruks small forest axe. What an absolute treat to use.

The book that came with it said to keep it in good shape and prevent rusting to oil it once in a while.

What kind of oil is preferable? I've read "machine oil" and also WD-40.

Can anyone comment on the WD-40 or suggest anything more specific?

Thanks!
Rick
07-04-2011, 10:45 AM
Machine oil was what my grandfather and father used. But then, that's about all that was available. That and motor oil. WD-40 is mostly mineral spirits so it will displace moisture and penetrate into the metal. I think it has a lot less to do with which type of oil you use and a lot more about keeping them clean, using some type of oil and storing them properly. Wood debris and dirt left on any tool will collect moisture and cause the tool to rust. Touch up the axe after use if you need to, clean it and wipe it down with a good oil. Store it so the head is not sitting on dirt or a garage floor and you should be fine.
steelnwool
07-04-2011, 10:54 AM
So I guess "machine oil" is "a good oil" ? :) And are you saying that wd-40 is good or bad?
Rick
07-04-2011, 10:59 AM
Personally, I think they are both good. There's probably other opinions on even better oils out there and I'm sure there will be all kinds of recommendations posted here. Keeping it clean, lightly oiled and stored off the ground are the important parts.
steelnwool
07-04-2011, 11:09 AM
Perfect, that's the info i needed. I pushed on the wd-40 front only cause i have lots of it ! :)

Now I'll go enjoy my axe some more... that just sounds dirty but awesome at the same time.
crashdive123
07-04-2011, 11:11 AM
You'll be fine with WD-40.
hunter63
07-04-2011, 12:35 PM
I'll vote WD-40 as well, great stuff, use it all the time.
kyratshooter
07-04-2011, 07:07 PM
And if it has a leather sheath do not store it in the leather.

Any kind of grease or oil will preserve the metal, even lard.
Rick
07-04-2011, 07:18 PM
Very good point on the sheath, KY. Not so good on the lard thingie, though. If you lick the wrong part of the axe then you mite be talkin funny fhrom now on.
steelnwool
07-05-2011, 08:42 AM
Ain't that true. I could shave with it. :D

While we're all on the topic, can we talk sharpening? I have a stone that has been kicking around my toolbox for ages. I'm not sure if its a wet stone, or a dry stone. It's guaranteed to be some bargain basement special i picked up years ago. Its about 2 inches x 5 inches with 2 sides of different shades of grey. Specific I know.

How do I tell which it is?

I've used it dry on my Axe and after about 30 to 40 seconds of work the axe is right back in factory sharpness, but I don't want to do anything to stupid and use it the way I shouldn't be.

Also, what does the "wet" part of a wetstone do? I've seen people on the net use things like "orange cleaners" to wd40, to water to oil with them and don't quite understand it.

Thanks again!
crashdive123
07-05-2011, 11:55 AM
It sounds like what you are describing could be an oil stone. Look at the side where you can see the two halves sandwiched together. One should look more porous than the other - that is the more coarse of the two.

Also - it's not wet, but rather whet in whetstone. Whet is the process of sharpening. Some whetstones used dry, with water, with oil. Their name will indicate which. Japanese water stone is an example.

The liquid medium that you add (oil, water) is to carry or float the metal particles that you are removing from the edge away from the work area.
steelnwool
07-05-2011, 12:34 PM
If the liquid carries away the particles.. why would a person use a dry one?
Bushman
07-05-2011, 02:17 PM
It sounds like what you are describing could be an oil stone. Look at the side where you can see the two halves sandwiched together. One should look more porous than the other - that is the more coarse of the two.

Also - it's not wet, but rather whet in whetstone. Whet is the process of sharpening. Some whetstones used dry, with water, with oil. Their name will indicate which. Japanese water stone is an example.

The liquid medium that you add (oil, water) is to carry or float the metal particles that you are removing from the edge away from the work area.

On these double sided stones I always used to use 30 weight engine oil.......then one day I was 'out' of the stuff and while washing my hands noted that plain old dishwashing liquid has about the same properties as oil.........and tried that.

It works !!

Best part is; that you can then put the stone under the hot water tap and wash all the crap off after use.........no more 'oily stones' gathering dust and cobwebs in your shed !!

nb// these stones WILL wear down with long use, they aint that hard !!:sailor:
crashdive123
07-05-2011, 03:06 PM
If the liquid carries away the particles.. why would a person use a dry one?

Depends on the stone. Some are natural materials, while others are synthetic. It all depends on their design as to which method is most efficient for that stone.
steelnwool
07-05-2011, 03:39 PM
And if it has a leather sheath do not store it in the leather.

Any kind of grease or oil will preserve the metal, even lard.

On this topic, do you mean store it bare and use the sheath for transport only? (It may seem obvious, but I always ask :))
Camp10
07-05-2011, 07:02 PM
On this topic, do you mean store it bare and use the sheath for transport only? (It may seem obvious, but I always ask :))

Yes, transport only. carbon steel shouldn't be stored in leather or it will rust.
Rick
07-05-2011, 07:34 PM
Make certain you clean your whetstone after use. If you don't the metal from the axe will clog the pores of the stone and your axe or knife will eventually be riding on the metal, not on the stone. Cleaning the stone is pretty easy. I use water on my stones so I simply add some more water and work a paper towel or cloth in a circular motion. I continue to do that until the stone is clean again. You can do the very same thing if you use oil. Use a small amount of the same oil and work in a circular motion. If you need to add more oil then do so and use a clean portion of the rag. You'll see the difference once the stone is clean again.
Camp10
07-05-2011, 08:11 PM
The best (IMO) lube to use on a stone is Simple Green. It will clean your stone to like new while you sharpen your knife. I read about this in Blade mag a year or so ago and have since tried it. The author of the article, Wayne Goddard, said he has brought stones that were junk back to service.
Rick
07-05-2011, 09:03 PM
Cool. How does it clean while using it ... if you know? Some of the metal would still embed in the stone I would think. Gotta look that one up.
edr730
07-06-2011, 01:59 AM
yes, soap will help to clean off the old oil on a stone....like simple green. No, the metal won't imbed in the stone if the soap isn't dried out. Hot water, gasoline or the woodstove too will clean a stone. Rubbing the stone on some flat concrete can take off the old sticky oil pretty quick too. I usually clean an old stone first thing, then just spit on the stone while I use it whether or not it's been used with oil.
rwc1969
07-07-2011, 09:46 AM
I've been using deer tallow on my axe and it seems to hold up a bit better than the commercial oils I use. actually it holds up a lot better. I've only had to do it once since applying it.
Camp10
07-09-2011, 07:04 AM
Cool. How does it clean while using it ... if you know? Some of the metal would still embed in the stone I would think. Gotta look that one up.

Sorry I didnt get back to you, Rick. I dont seem to get much time for the computer anymore. The Simple Green seems to break up the dried oil in the pores and lifts the materials that it (the oil) has trapped. You get some pretty interesting color changes of the simple green the first few times you sharpen with it as it is stained with this. I soaked one of my old stones in a coffee can of simple green for a few days and after the first few sharpenings, it looked much better then before. I didnt have a "junk" stone to see just how well it will work but I can say first hand that you will see a difference.
tsitenha
07-09-2011, 07:26 PM
What about using ski wax in a stick form? Can be replaced in the fiels or an old candle some carry around?
Shalako
08-01-2011, 11:07 PM
WD 40 and similiar stuff is simply not thick enough to prevent rusting in humid areas. If I recall correctly, what is sometimes called "Machine Oil" is simply "3 in 1" oil. At any rate most any oil will do for your purpose provided it is thick enough to stay in place and prevent rusting. I use engine oil and it works fine. Wiping it down with grease will work also, but may collect a bit of dirt.
Supertramp
08-02-2011, 04:34 PM
i like to freshen up the handle every now and then with Linseed oil and i just wipe over the whole thing -handle -head-sheath -don't think it can hurt anything-works for me
Wheels
08-03-2011, 12:27 AM
You are correct about leaving any steel in leather. Working with leather one trick to use olive oil on the leather. The olive oil dose three things it gives the leather a very nice color, condition the leather and it will leave a thin film of oil on the knife or what is stored in the leather.
crashdive123
08-03-2011, 06:14 AM
Won't it go rancid? May not be an issue for an axe, but with a knife - and you are using the knife for food prep it might be an issue.
kyratshooter
08-03-2011, 03:20 PM
About the only thing that is food safe and will not go rancid is mineral oil.

I prefer neetsfoot oil on my leather and the little of it that gets into my food has never seemed to hurt me.
Rick
08-03-2011, 05:44 PM
the little of it that gets into my food has never seemed to hurt me.

Well.....from where you're standing anyway. (snicker, snort)

Petroleum jelly is another good one that is both food safe and won't go bad.
Wheels
08-03-2011, 08:38 PM
To tell you the truth I never thought that the oil may go rancid. Miles out in the boonies is not the place to find out.

I have sheaths several years old that have been cured with olive. I just did the sniff test on them and they smell like leather. All I can say is, I have never had any issues using the olive oil. That may be because when I fix vittles I wash or wipe my hands and cooking utencles with an alcohol towel-et.

Never the less it;s that oz. of prevention and lb. of cure thing.
Rick
08-03-2011, 09:06 PM
Remember that rancid oil won't harm you. It's the oil oxidizing. It will generally have a nasty smell or a disagreeable taste but the fact that it is "rancid" doesn't mean it will harm you. But if you have the choice then I'd opt for something that won't go rancid. If you happen to use that sharp to butcher meat and the oil has gone rancid then the bad flavor could contaminate the meat. No reason to let that happen. If you won't use that sharp on game then no blood no foul.
glockcop
08-04-2011, 09:39 AM
so i guess "machine oil" is "a good oil" ? :) and are you saying that wd-40 is good or bad?

WD40=good. I live in Louisiana and as you know it's a very moist envioronment. I keep all my hand tools wiped down with WD40 and never have issues with rust out in my shop. My neighbor keeps a bucket of sand with old motor oil in it to keep his axe in. He just shoves the head down past the sand, covering it. I saw this in an outdoor magazine a while back and it reminded me of him. Use a short piece of garden hose split long ways down the side too slip over the edge to protect the edge when you stick it down in there. I've never done it but it works for him.
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