New Piece

[your_comforting_company]

My parents went to visit my grandparents in OK over the thanksgiving holiday. Grampa seems to have taken a particular liking to me and my way of thinking. So he saw fit to bestow upon me a new tool from ages past. This is one thing that falls right in the middle of everything I know. I understand a great deal about primitive ways, and modern ways.

This beauty right here falls more in the "pioneer" days. Time to plan for some new supply stash. I don't know anything about black powder rifles at all. I do know I'll need bullet molds, powder and primers. I suppose I also need lube and some other stuff. Grampa is gonna give me the ins and outs, but expect to see more questions on this one from me.
http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg184/your_comforting_company/DSCN5489.jpg

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg184/your_comforting_company/DSCN5493.jpg

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg184/your_comforting_company/DSCN5496.jpg

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg184/your_comforting_company/DSCN5490.jpg

It's a Thompson / Center, New Englander, model 61171. Still has the original ramrod! I can't find much info on it, so I'm gonna call the mfg early next week. I have no idea how old this beauty is, but I'd really like to find out. I can't find any info on it on the thompson site.

(sorry for the big pics, gonna fix those in a minute!)

[Sourdough]

Don't know if you seen this: http://www.huntingnet.com/forum/black-powder/208193-thompson-new-englander.html

[hunter63]

Congrats, T/C makes a quaility tool.
I have a couple of T/C Hawkens, .50 cal, and am still looking for a deal on a rock lock.

SD's link answers most of the questions, but if you have any others please ask.

They are fun, and can lead to full blown camps and such..................jsut a warning

[your_comforting_company]

Thanks guys. That link helps out. The slugs grampa sent with it are 245 gr. Powerbelts. The package says "The bullet that made sabots obsolete". Got a lot of research to do! I'm led to believe that 100gr of powder at 50 - 75 yds would be a definate kill shot (I'm a very good shot with iron sights!)

Any idea how old this thing might be?

I have to talk to a few cattle farmers to find a nice powderhorn. These bullets have green pads on the bottom, so do I need patches for it? What about lube?

Boy I have a lot to learn about this.. It's one of those things that for me always came pre-packaged.. open the box, pop one in and go bang. Now I have to learn the measures, etc.

How much of this stuff can I make myself? Black powder is one of those things I never thought I could make on my own, and certainly not the primer caps, so I'm not real sure how good of a "survival rifle" it might be. I guess that will hinge on how cheap the ingredients are, vs, how quickly I can stockpile them.

I want to make myself a nice paracord strap and get down to hog country and try it out! Looks like I'll be working this weekend, so it might be next weekend before I get a chance to try it. I'm excited!!

[rebel]

Thanks guys. That link helps out. The slugs grampa sent with it are 245 gr. Powerbelts. The package says "The bullet that made sabots obsolete". Got a lot of research to do! I'm led to believe that 100gr of powder at 50 - 75 yds would be a definate kill shot (I'm a very good shot with iron sights!)

Any idea how old this thing might be?

I have to talk to a few cattle farmers to find a nice powderhorn. These bullets have green pads on the bottom, so do I need patches for it? What about lube?

Boy I have a lot to learn about this.. It's one of those things that for me always came pre-packaged.. open the box, pop one in and go bang. Now I have to learn the measures, etc.

How much of this stuff can I make myself? Black powder is one of those things I never thought I could make on my own, and certainly not the primer caps, so I'm not real sure how good of a "survival rifle" it might be. I guess that will hinge on how cheap the ingredients are, vs, how quickly I can stockpile them.

I want to make myself a nice paracord strap and get down to hog country and try it out! Looks like I'll be working this weekend, so it might be next weekend before I get a chance to try it. I'm excited!!

You might want to try some round balls and patches.

I haven't tried it yet but, there is a tool that you can get that makes caps from aluminum cans and pop gun poppers.

A ball and patch puller is good to have too. Then if you don't see anything to shoot you can take out your corrosive powder and save it for the next time. It saves a lot of time on cleaning too.

Anyway, I think you're going to like black powder shooting. Be safe. Remember, the cap is the last thing to go on and the first to come off.

[crashdive123]

Looks great YCC. Enjoy your learning.

[Rick]

Well, it doesn't get much better than that does it? Not only is it a fine functional firearm but it was presented to you by your grandfather. You gotta love that. Congrats.

[Old GI]

Fantastic.

I gave my old 50 cal to my stepson in NM a few years ago. He got his elk on the first day of black powder season. He called me to tell me about his adventure (how the shot was made, loading by it by himself in his little Toyota pick up using ratchet tie down straps, etc.). I laughed but I was soooo proud!! I guess that makes it official, I'm the only one he called and that makes me a father (and grandfather) figure.

Fed his family of four and others (me included) for some time. He loves black powder (now).

[rwc1969]

YCC you might wanna check out these bullets. They are comparable to the powerbelts, but less expensive and actually better
imo. http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/5483

But, I'd probably just shoot round balls in that with 90 gr. of powder. In fact I have quite a few .50 cal round balls, patches, primers/ percussion caps and possibly a few other items I could send you. Just pm me your addy or something along those lines.

The main thing to remember with that rifle is if you shoot it clean it that day or the next as it will rust out in no time flat. Cleaning is done easily with dish soap and hot water.

Cool rifle btw, nice hand me down for sure.

[rwc1969]

One more thing, if it isn't already done. Make sure the rifle is emty, insert ramrod and mark it. That way if you stick the ramrod in you can tell if it's already loaded. I also put a mark on my ramrod for loaded position as well, but wait to do that until I decide on my preferred load and bullet. That will let you know if the bullet is seated properly.

Believe me you don't want to shoot two loads and you don't want to shoot your ramrod out either. Make sure you remove it before each shot. :)

I know it might sound silly saying that, but it happens quite often and sometimes with devastating results.

[kyratshooter]

YCC, you have now been abducted by by the spirits of those gone before.

What can you use?

What can you make?

You are now limited only by your skill set.

From this point you can "make" everything and I am sure YOU will want too. Start piling up antler tips, deer leg bones, leather scraps and such. do not worry about cow horns, I have suppliers.

I have suppliers for everything! Fear not!

First thing you will need is a shooting bag. The "Dad purse" as my kids called it. all this stuff has to be kept in order and accessable so start with the shooting bag. It needs to be about 10"x12"x3" with a wide strap.

Welcome from your new partners in excess.

http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae193/lstancliff_photos/2009-06-29012.jpg

Believe it or not the people in that shot include a parole officer, a state trooper, a local cop and a Green Barret. Some of us still have to keep day jobs.

[hunter63]

I guess I had to kinda smile when you mentioned that you got it from your Grandfather, and I'm thinking "OLD", then I thought, heck, I'm a Grandfather, and I guess 40 years old is old.
Anyway T/C rifles are reproductions, or at least some are built with modern materials in classic(old) designs.

T/C was started in 1965, rifles are mostly from 1970 up.
Here is a little history: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thompson_Center_Arms

So it's not a collectible in the classic sense, (I kinda "collect" some, but that's a different story), but it is a very well made and useful tool. Fun as well.

Sounds to me that you were provided with Maxi/Mini balls, no patch needed, just a little grease on/into the base before starting down the bore.

This is a "possibles bag" set up for patched round balls/mini's , I use a more modern style for the in-line shooting sabots.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y139/hunter63/PICT0820crop.jpg

I like patched round balls in mine, seem to shoot real well, (rifle shoots better than I do), some shoot round balls better, some shoot maxi/minis (bullets/slugs), and some shoot sabot better, depending on twist rate.
The New Englander is a 1-48 twist rate, I think, so should either one well.

I looked up The New Englander on the manuals page on the T/C web site, didn't see the manual listed, so tried the CS number, was 15th call in que, so I guess Thursday is a busy day?

[Old GI]

One more thing, if it isn't already done. Make sure the rifle is emty, insert ramrod and mark it. That way if you stick the ramrod in you can tell if it's already loaded. I also put a mark on my ramrod for loaded position as well, but wait to do that until I decide on my preferred load and bullet. That will let you know if the bullet is seated properly.

Believe me you don't want to shoot two loads and you don't want to shoot your ramrod out either. Make sure you remove it before each shot. :)

I know it might sound silly saying that, but it happens quite often and sometimes with devastating results.

Oh, rwc, it ain't silly at all. I'll refrain from boring you with my cleaning rod in an M1 story. This is an excellent thought and I'll pass it to my stepson. Great idea!:thumbs_up:

[hunter63]

One more thing, if it isn't already done. Make sure the rifle is emty, insert ramrod and mark it. That way if you stick the ramrod in you can tell if it's already loaded. I also put a mark on my ramrod for loaded position as well, but wait to do that until I decide on my preferred load and bullet. That will let you know if the bullet is seated properly.

Believe me you don't want to shoot two loads and you don't want to shoot your ramrod out either. Make sure you remove it before each shot. :)
I know it might sound silly saying that, but it happens quite often and sometimes with devastating results.

Good advice, it's embarrassing, and dangerous.
Forgetting to put powder is before the ball/bullet, sabot is also common.

A small squeeze bottle (contact lens drops, with the hole in the end enlarged) of 4f powder (very fine), to squirted in to the nipple hole, (take nipple out first), works well to have enough to blow out ball/bullet, if you do forget to "pour before you "P".
If it doesn't get "shot out" in first try, try again, but be SURE to push ball/bullet back down all the way!

Pulling the ball with a bullet puller is a real Pain in the butte, I would only resort to this as a last resort.
The screw expands the ball, making it even tighter to pull, and most rods don't have too much to grab on to, to get enough leverage.

If you check out the pic' left center is a nipple wrench, with a screw drilled, tapped in to it, that fits end of ram rod, just for this reason.
Cleaning patches on cleaning the jag get stuck in barrel, as well, and the rod gets greasy, so its a valuable tool.

If you are just quitting hunting for the day, the charge may left in, just un-cap it, and is considered unloaded in most states.
A small piece of leather over the cop hole will seal it up very well.

If done with the rifle, I like to fire it, to get rid of the load, and to see if it's gonna go off. Had carried a loaded ML all week only to have it not fire at the end of season.
Oil collecting in primer hole and bottom of breach is very common, as a lot of guys figure the more oil, the better........not in ML's, particularly if stored up right in a closet, safe etc.

Always fire a couple of caps before loading, to dry out the hole and breach.

In-lines------Breach plug can be unscrewed to dump powder/pellets out the breach, then ball/bullet pushed thru with loading rod.
Good way to make sure the breach plug isn't corroded and stuck, easier to do it in a vise than the tailgate of the truck.

[kyratshooter]

TC call in center is probably jambed due to it being ML season over half the nation right now. One thing you just did was extend your deer hunting season by severl days/weeks. Here in KY we get an extra 10 days. down in TN we got a whole extra month.

TC sidelocks solve most of the problems with ML guns. They use coil springs and lock everything down so it is tamper proof. They are also about 10x stronger than they need to be. If you overload it the recoil may dislocate your shoulder, stomp your butt in the mud and make you nose bleed for two days but it will not blow up!

New Englanders have 1/48 twist. They will do a fair job on about any projectile.

If you check for a loaded charge with the ram rod be advised that TC uses a patent breech that has a threaded section that extends into the barrel for about an inch. You have the snail drum section about an inch thick and then the threaded section another inch, so your RR will be about 2" up from the end of the barrel.

The New Englander was designed as a utility gun w/o fancy brass or extras. It also came in a smoothbore model for states that prohibited rifling.

[your_comforting_company]

COOL!
Look at all the little projects, stuff to make! This is gonna be real fun!
I'm gonna be asking for write-ups for the forum from some of you guys.


The New Englander was designed as a utility gun w/o fancy brass or extras

Sounds perfect for me!
I just happen to have some black angus skin tanning in black walnut right now, so The possibles bag is going to be a real treat.
Primitive weapons (it's a firearm?!?) season comes in a clear month earlier here than rifle season (boomstick is boomstick, right?!?). Any excuse will do for me to go out to the woods! Happy days are ahead!

You fella's have presented me with a few days of info to soak in. First on the agenda is to mark the ramrod, clean and lube the gun. I'll get on that tonight. I have a little overnight bag I can use for a shooting bag till the cow is done tanning. Got a lot of learnin and makin to do!
Thanks guys!

[SARKY]

I have a TC Hawken and TC White Mountain Carbine. The Carbine I found to be way more useful in dense brush. I cast my own hollow point minne balls (A TC mould no longer in production) I use 90 grains of powder in mine. It's what it likes. When you get to shooting, try different powder loads to see which it shoots best with.

[glockcop]

Very nice smoke pole from a really good company. You lucky devil. I'm jealous. You just gotta take a white tail with it this year. You just gotta!

[hunter63]

...............
How much of this stuff can I make myself? Black powder is one of those things I never thought I could make on my own, and certainly not the primer caps, so I'm not real sure how good of a "survival rifle" it might be. I guess that will hinge on how cheap the ingredients are, vs, how quickly I can stockpile them...............

Black powder can be made, still need charcoal, sodium nitrate, and sulphur, but the weak link is still the caps.

This is why I still have been keeping my eyes open for a flintlock Hawken, that would solve that.

[Sparky93]

......I haven't tried it yet but, there is a tool that you can get that makes caps from aluminum cans and pop gun poppers.......


I read somewhere that you have to find american made pop gun poppers for it to work right. The made in China ones won't work for some reason.

[Sparky93]

Here is a good read on making your own black powder, though I have never done it, I have done a little research on it.

http://www.freepyroinfo.com/Pyrotechnic/Black_Powder/How_to_Make_Black_Powder.pdf

[kyratshooter]

I have never made powder successfully. Not good black powder anyway. Of course i was never able to get a large enough supply of raw materials to really play around and experiment. I have the sneeky feeling that if they could do it in the 13th century I could figure it out if I really had too.

Since I moved up here to NKY I run over to Friendship IN and buy what I need when they are having matches. That seems much easier than mixing all the components and peeing in them and mushing the result through a screen...

And of course there are the substitutes you can get now. But they don't want to work in my flinters and they do not have the same power level as the real stuff, no matter what they say. But they will go boom in a caplock.

I have noted that the TC guns usually fire a 90 grain charge to the fixed sights very consistantly. At least they do my patched round ball loads.

That Cap maker thing is called a Tap-O-Cap and it was made by the Corbin people. They no longer make it. Chineese caps work fine and a pack of them is about 1,000 shots.

You can also get an extra nipple for your rifle and use a drill and file to work down the OD of the nipple to accept the plastic ring caps they use in the modern cap guns. You can get them at Wallmart too. they work as well as the #11 caps and are easier to find in many areas.

YCC while the skins are tanning you can make yourself a bullet starter and a powder measure, perhaps a bullet board. You can make a leather capper get a start on a powder horn.

You can get good ideas and raw materials here:

http://www.logcabinshop.com/

http://www.trackofthewolf.com/index.aspx?as=1

You can also go with Dixie Gun Works or several other places.

[your_comforting_company]

Thanks KY. The bullet board is the thing in SD's pic with the holes in it? What on earth is it for? I've got a lot of homework to do on this beauty before I'm ready to fire it.
New moon is this weekend, with temps in the low 30s so I'll be in the woods all weekend. Got work piling up, so time will be limited till around christmas. Just how much of this stuff can I get away with NOT having.. I'd really like to try it this year. If I don't get my act together, it might come down to practicing at the range, till next Sept.. By then I should have the kit ready. PW season is mid Sep, and rifle season is mid Oct. All seasons go out mid Jan.

This is gonna be FUN!

I sometimes use lead pipe boots on roofs, you have to cut off the excess before you fold it over the pipe. I have several pieces saved I was gonna melt down into fishing weights, but If I can use them to make bullets...

Maybe I'll get a chance Sunday afternoon to go by the sporting goods store and see what they have.

[hunter63]

Well actually I posted the pic.
But yeah, that wooden thing is a bullet board, has a hole in which you push in a patched ball, lubed with bore butter (T/C trade name), Crisco, or light machine oil, bees wax(toilet ring wax works good, and is cheap mixed with lanolin, or any number of lubes available.

Most are just a hole (or bunch of holes) of the correct size, in a board.
The one pictured has a cut out, that centers it on the muzzle of the T/C Hawken, helps loading in the dark, opening morning.
I actually practiced loading with my eyes closed, just for this reason.

I like using pillow ticking for patching material, the good stuff, heavy about .15 thousands w/a .490 round ball.
I tear the pillow ticking in strips about 1-1/2 inch wide, lay them out and use a real light machine oil, (sewing machine oil?), just running a line of oil down the middle, and let it soak in and spread out.
They just get rolled back up into the bag till I need them.

When loading put piece of pillow ticking on the bore, push round ball into it, push even with short starter, then pull up cloth, and cut even with patch knife.
I tie a strip of pre-lubed ticking onto bag, use as needed, saving strip of holey cloth for char cloth.

They do make pre-lubed, pre-cut patches, for sale, but I like to make my own, and have a bad time centering the pre-cut patches.

With sabots you don't need to do any of this stuff, LOL, just dump in powder, wipe a little lube on the sabot, then push down the barrel, TIGHT on to powder, cap it up and fire.

[rwc1969]

YCC,

I mentioned earlier that I have a few items I no longer use, since I now shoot an inline, they are yours if you want them, for free, no postage, no nothin', just send me your addy.

Capper, 30 or so caps, 50 or so round balls, lubed patches, starter for round balls. I even have a brass flask almost identical to the one hunter63 posted in his thread, just slightly smaller, that is yours if you want it.

This stuff is A-ok and it's yours, just let me know.

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m50/shroomer69/Hunting%20and%20fishing/MLsupplies.jpg

[your_comforting_company]

Wow rwc! I really appreciate it! I must've missed your earlier post in all the excitement and confusion. PM sent. Thanks man!

[rwc1969]

No problem, PM sent and it's on it's way. You still should get an extractor, nipple wrench, pick and some powder. I used Hodgdon Pyrodex R/S in my old CVA sidelock, but powders have come a long way. Black powder is cool too though.

Another thing that worked well for me during cleaning was to take a piece of 1/4" surgical or aquarium tubing to hook to the nipple to draw soapy water in for cleaning. Probably not the most traditional way of doing it but it worked real good. I never had to dissamble the breech plug or nipple in all the years I owned it, never had a misfire, and never had to use the pick.

[1stimestar]

Ohhh it's beautiful. Looks like a great winter project.

[aflineman]

Be careful, these can grow on you. I have a Great Plains flinter, and am looking at a Shotgun, a Trade Rifle, or a Howda pistol next. They can be very addictive, but have a great history to go with that addiction.

[hunter63]

Be careful, these can grow on you. I have a Great Plains flinter, and am looking at a Shotgun, a Trade Rifle, or a Howda pistol next. They can be very addictive, but have a great history to go with that addiction.

LOL, addictive it is.........would you believe that all this started with a birthday present rifle...........?


http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y139/hunter63/HomeSweetHome.jpg

Fine reason to make all sorts of cool gear, learn a lot of history, travel back in time on vacation, live the life that a lot of us dreamed about as kids watching Davey Crockett and Danial Boone............

Enjoy!

[rwc1969]

That's it for me hunter, and the big puff of smoke you get after each shot.

[kyratshooter]

Yep, you start with a gift rifle and next thing you know you ave a dedicated trailer packed with BP and re-enactment gear.

There was a time when I would have never paid more than $50 for a BP rifle and now I consider $200 for a stock blank "reasonable".

It gets in your blood.

[rwc1969]

I'm surprised how expensive the traditional rifles have become. When I was a kid you could get them for under 100 bucks for a very nice one. Now, some are over 600 bucks, it's almost as if the inlines are less expensive now.

I'd like to get a Kentucky rifle in .32 cal. I've always wanted one.

[Gilmore]

YCC, you have now been abducted by by the spirits of those gone before.

What can you use?

What can you make?

You are now limited only by your skill set.

From this point you can "make" everything and I am sure YOU will want too. Start piling up antler tips, deer leg bones, leather scraps and such. do not worry about cow horns, I have suppliers.

I have suppliers for everything! Fear not!

First thing you will need is a shooting bag. The "Dad purse" as my kids called it. all this stuff has to be kept in order and accessable so start with the shooting bag. It needs to be about 10"x12"x3" with a wide strap.

Welcome from your new partners in excess.

http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae193/lstancliff_photos/2009-06-29012.jpg

Believe it or not the people in that shot include a parole officer, a state trooper, a local cop and a Green Barret. Some of us still have to keep day jobs.

The guy on the right is listening to an ipod :oops:

[kyratshooter]

The guy on the right is listening to an ipod :oops:

Actually, the guy on the right is one of the event coordinators in charge of the range. He is using a walkie-talkie. Rather than run around with a radio in his hand we use the earpieces. It is one of the concessions we have to make for safty. We have to let a port-a-potty truck drive through camp one a day too. It ticks everyone off but they are REALLY ticked off if it does not come.

We have over 100 camps at this event, about 500 people total, and it spreads out for almost a mile. You can not just yell back and forth with instructions.

Range officer is more than at the normal event program, We shoot at least two matches each day. Our matches are not the 3-5 shot events one usually does. 25-50 shots being common in each event. We will burn 2-3 pounds of powder during the week and more if you shoot the side matches.

We also have an MD on staff and a nurse practitioner available 24/7.

This particular event is a two week private camp and I consider it my vacation each year. I even go up a week early to help set up.

That gives me three weeks solid living in the 18th century. No gear past 1836 at this event. I stay earlier than that, around 1800. Comming back home is usually a shock. I do not even realize my cell phone is ringing and I forget how to drive. I can get into the primitive mindset instantly but it takes me about a week to get back to the modern world.

http://i971.photobucket.com/albums/ae193/lstancliff_photos/IMG_0519-1.jpg

It's really nice to spend a long bit of time among people that do not consider prepping, primitive skills, killing your own food, gathering your salid greens in the woods and sitting and staring down a campfire until you fall asleep abnormal.

[hunter63]

KS, Amen, what you said........I find it hard to eat at a table, used to balancing tin plate on my knee.

[kyratshooter]

One of the things they do at the big camp is have a cooking contest, and that night we have our feast!

I try to get in on judging the cooking contest.

All dishes must be made from scratch and cooked over the fire. GOOD EATS!

Some of the folks have special dishes they just make over the fire and no other time.

What were we origionally talking about???

Oh yea,, GUNS!

[Ole WV Coot]

I picked up a T/C Cougar with SS hardware at a flea market in MD several years ago and I do rather well with 100gr of Pyrodex behind a sabot. Guess it is as accurate as one of my 30-30 Marlins at 100yds with open sights and I know 100 is a touch warm, I go 110 most of the time.

[Gilmore]

only muzzleloader i own is a t/c encore and we shoot 100 gr of T7 sulfer free powder and we shoot up to 300 yds

[your_comforting_company]

Ok.. a couple questions. The bullet board just holds pre-patched balls for quicker loading?
In the pic, below the powder measure is a wood thing that looks like a mallet, is that your ball starter? There's a small piece left of it, what's that?
And the iron thing to the right beside it, what's that?
Some stuff in/on a tin on the bottom left?
(sorry for all the questions lol)

The powder I have is listed on the bottom here "Pyrodex select":
http://www.hodgdon.com/pyrodex-granular.html
Is that the wrong powder for this gun?

I'm gonna try to go tomorrow to get a powder measure, nipple wrench, and puller (or I might try to make one). gonna do the leather capper and bullet board this week. Starting on some inner pouches this week for the hunting bag too. (At least I'll be functionally disorganized haha)

RWC hooked me up with balls, patches, and a starter, and a flask and capper, so there's only a few loose ends to gather and some training, and I'll be ready to shoot. A few more things to make and aquire and I'll be ready to hunt!

[rwc1969]

That's the right powder, anything with an ffg eqivalent. ffg is black powder.

[Beans]

One more thing, if it isn't already done. Make sure the rifle is emty, insert ramrod and mark it. That way if you stick the ramrod in you can tell if it's already loaded. I also put a mark on my ramrod for loaded position as well, but wait to do that until I decide on my preferred load and bullet. That will let you know if the bullet is seated properly.

Believe me you don't want to shoot two loads and you don't want to shoot your ramrod out either. Make sure you remove it before each shot. :)

I know it might sound silly saying that, but it happens quite often and sometimes with devastating results.

You haven't arived in the black powder shooting game until, during a match you shoot your ram rod down range :helpsmilie:

[hunter63]

Ok.. a couple questions.

The bullet board just holds pre-patched balls for quicker loading? (Correct, this board has two ball/patches loaded)

In the pic, below the powder measure is a wood thing that looks like a mallet, is that your ball starter? (Yes, I made this one with a flat top, easier to slap with your hand, then say a round one)

There's a small piece left of it, what's that? (Piece of brass mounted in plastic rod, used to push cross wedge out of barrel, not necessary, but nice.)

And the iron thing to the right beside it, what's that? (Home made brass hammer/screwdriver, not nessessary, just handy some times)

Some stuff in/on a tin on the bottom left? (metal snuff can, fire kit w/fire steel, char cloth, flint)
(sorry for all the questions lol)
No worries, just ask away!

The powder I have is listed on the bottom here "Pyrodex select":
http://www.hodgdon.com/pyrodex-granular.html
Is that the wrong powder for this gun?

I'm gonna try to go tomorrow to get a powder measure, nipple wrench, and puller (or I might try to make one). gonna do the leather capper and bullet board this week. Starting on some inner pouches this week for the hunting bag too. (At least I'll be functionally disorganized haha)

RWC hooked me up with balls, patches, and a starter, and a flask and capper, so there's only a few loose ends to gather and some training, and I'll be ready to shoot. A few more things to make and aquire and I'll be ready to hunt!

Sounds like tha "stuff" is coming together....half the fun!

[hunter63]

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y139/hunter63/PICT0820crop.jpg


From top left: on left side of bag

pillow ticking--pre lubed--patching material
Loading block-w/2 of the hole preloaded w/ patched .50 cal round balls
Patch knife-straight razor w/antler handle -for cutting patches from the pillow ticking
Powder measure-adjustable
Capper-w/caps
cap tin w/Crisco-added/extra lube
tin of caps
T handle nipple wrench w/threaded screw fits end of ram rod, good for pulling stuck patches, or balls if you for get to pour the powder. (The old Pour before you pea trick, Powder before the ball)
Short starter, mallet
Screw driver w/brass small hammer head.
Pouch, ties on strap for pre-measured loads-cigar tubes cut down
Brass wedge-pin knock out tool
Candle end
Fire starter tin kit, flint (rock type) steel (piece of file) char cloth
Small knife sharpening stone
Contact dropper bottle w/4ffff fine powder--hole opened up--used to squeeze in a little powder into the nipple hole, if you forget the powder, or powder wet and won't fire.
Small bottle of solvent
cleaning patches
zip-loc w/ modern possibles (notice the bic, I like bics) aspirins, compass, piece of Ivory soap (cleaning, gun of self, did both, floats)
Bag and horn
Right side of bag, Green river skinning knife, kept in pouch on back of strap.

Bag it's self has pouches sewn on the inside so as to keep stuff from collecting in the bottom, making noise, and be able to find them in the dark.

We practiced loading with our eyes closed, so as to be able to do it in the dark--
The pre-measured loads and loading block really come in handy here.

Not pictured (at least yet)
Rifles all have modified composite loading/cleaning rod, (hunting, use wood rod at Rendezvous range) spare nipple, cleaning jag, ball worm (screw for pulling balls) and pulling stuck patches.
Also on trigger guard, is a leather disk w/holes for spare caps,hanging on thong.



I copied the posting I did on Man purses a while back, has a listing included.

[kyratshooter]

Ok.. a couple questions. The bullet board just holds pre-patched balls for quicker loading?
In the pic, below the powder measure is a wood thing that looks like a mallet, is that your ball starter? There's a small piece left of it, what's that?
And the iron thing to the right beside it, what's that?
Some stuff in/on a tin on the bottom left?
(sorry for all the questions lol)

The powder I have is listed on the bottom here "Pyrodex select":
http://www.hodgdon.com/pyrodex-granular.html
Is that the wrong powder for this gun?

I'm gonna try to go tomorrow to get a powder measure, nipple wrench, and puller (or I might try to make one). gonna do the leather capper and bullet board this week. Starting on some inner pouches this week for the hunting bag too. (At least I'll be functionally disorganized haha)

RWC hooked me up with balls, patches, and a starter, and a flask and capper, so there's only a few loose ends to gather and some training, and I'll be ready to shoot. A few more things to make and aquire and I'll be ready to hunt!

Here's a tip and a question YCC

Do you have access to any river cane?

If you do I have found that it is great stuff for making small premeasured powder flasks. You trim a section of cane and whittle a stopper for it, Put your measured charge inside and cap it.

It really speeds up the process when used with the bullet board!

I hang my ball board, capper and a cane charge tube from my shooting bag strap, right across the front of my cheast. The ball starter rides in loops outside the shooting bag. Most of the time I never have to go inside my shooting bag for a reload in the field.

You can cut your reload time form 1 minute to about 20 seconds.

[hunter63]

Here's a tip and a question YCC

Do you have access to any river cane?

If you do I have found that it is great stuff for making small premeasured powder flasks. You trim a section of cane and whittle a stopper for it, Put your measured charge inside and cap it.

It really speeds up the process when used with the bullet board!

I hang my ball board, capper and a cane charge tube from my shooting bag strap, right across the front of my cheast. The ball starter rides in loops outside the shooting bag. Most of the time I never have to go inside my shooting bag for a reload in the field.

You can cut your reload time form 1 minute to about 20 seconds.

Never though of cane,... Thanks, make my preloads look a little more "primitive", geart idea!

I like loading at the line, from my bag, as practice for hunting, most all my supplies are on the outside as well.

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y139/hunter63/PICT0816crop.jpg

[crashdive123]

Here's the powder horn that Runs With Beer made He also modified an old skeleton key for his pic. He brought the set-up to one of our camping trips - the pictures do not do justice to his craftsmanship. http://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/showthread.php?t=4652

[hunter63]

Crash, thanks for posting, nice job, that must have been before my time.
Half the fun of this hobby is making all your stuff.......or have it gifted to you, as I have.

Really makes them your own, and trying a lot of different crafts.

Horn I pictured is a cow horn that I worked over with a dremel. (LOL, Yeah, I know, not primitive, but it was a steam powered dremel, yeah, that's the ticket)

[crashdive123]

I've got a couple of nice cow horns that I want to try my hand at making some powder horns with. If they turn out OK I might have to buy a black powder rifle.

[your_comforting_company]

managed to get the nipple wrench today, but that was all they had. they did have the powerbelts and some premeasured powder pellets. He said they were what I was looking for, but the box said "In-Line" and my gun isn't an inline. Will those things work in my gun?

[hunter63]

YCC, They should work just fine, as KRS comfirmed, your rifle is a 1-48 twist rate so should work just fine, as well as the patched round balls.

What size powder pellets are they gr per each?
I think I would start with about 80 gr of powder and see how it shoots.

[rwc1969]

I think those powder pellets are designed for inlines only. They typically have a hole down the center to allow the flash to get into the powder. Since your gun is a sidelock it won't allow the flash to get into that hole. Not to mention a #11 percussion cap has way less flash than a shotgun primer for which those pellets were intended.

Some folks using inlines have reported unburned powder using the pellets

I'd find straight up pyrodex RS and go with that. Even that pyrodex select should be a-ok.

[your_comforting_company]

H, they were 50gr pellets, with the hole in the middle. I explained to the guy, while holding a nipple wrench in my hand that it was a side-cap thingy, in my eloquent way, and it just didn't look right. I think I'll wait till I find a powder measure and use the granulated stuff I already have. Might have to order powder online if folks around here can't get it.. not sure how that'll work.

I'll call him back tomorrow and tell him to get the powder in stock for me. Thanks RWC. He's supposed to be stocking balls and patches for me, and looking for the other stuff.

[hunter63]

I think those powder pellets are designed for inlines only. They typically have a hole down the center to allow the flash to get into the powder. Since your gun is a sidelock it won't allow the flash to get into that hole. Not to mention a #11 percussion cap has way less flash than a shotgun primer for which those pellets were intended.

Some folks using inlines have reported unburned powder using the pellets

I'd find straight up pyrodex RS and go with that. Even that pyrodex select should be a-ok.



I believe you are correct, nice catch and I guess I wouldn't mix "systems" either.
I use all granular, so I guess I never even thought about that.

[kyratshooter]

When the pellets first came out they did not have a hole down the middle, and the shotgun primers were not being used yet. Even the inlines used #11 caps.

Yep, I'm that old. If you ever HAVE to use them do not hesitate to do so. But if you did not buy them, waiting for the granular, you probably were wise.

YCC local gun shops should have substitute BP. Wall Mart here keeps it in stock all the time. It should be available everywhere right now with hunting season in full swing! If you order there will be hazmat fees out the wazoo!

I prefer real BP but it is not available everywhere and the subs do a good job.

[your_comforting_company]

Christmas shopping yesterday proved quite productive.. Wal-Mart had all the accessories I needed to complete the kit except the speed loader, bullet board, handmade stuff.

So now I have everything I need to shoot, and only need a few more items to be ready to hunt.
Still got stuff to do today, so no hunting, but hopefully I'll have time today to go over to the range and practice a few shots. Got to get my jerky going and get more firewood.

The only thing I couldn't find yesterday was the .490 balls. But they did have powerbelts and sabots with special tips, etc, for about half the price. 10 bucks for 40 belts or 10 bucks for 25 sabots with yellow tips.

I need some good instructions on loading; I read somewhere about putting 30 grains in to "foul the barrel"..? What would you do that for?

Got patches, and bore butter in a pack with 2 other things.. some anti-seize and some solvent.. What is the anti-seize for?
Bore butter goes on the plastic pad under the bullets, and isn't used at all on balls/patches, right?

I've been reading, just want to confirm.
Thanks for everything guys!

[crashdive123]

Knowing you YCC, I suspect you will be melting your own lead and casting your own bullets in no time at all.

[Rick]

You did notice that he said "Christmas shopping" and then proceeded to buy stuff for himself.

[crashdive123]

Hehehehehe.

[your_comforting_company]

I didn't say who I was shopping for. hehe!

[your_comforting_company]

Often, when roofing, I use lead pipe boots, instead of rubber which generally last only about 5 years and need replacing again. The lead boots are often extra long and the top 6" or so are cut off.
I've been saving the offcuts for a while and have a pound or two of them I was going to use for fishing leads, but I think bullets might be a better idea now.

[rwc1969]

That's a good price on the powerbelts, they're around a buck a piece here. Many folks here don't like them for deer hunting though, they say they don't pass through. But, there are others who feel they work fine. I used the powerbelt platinums and they are extremely accurate in my rifle, but I never got a chance to try them on a deer.

The anti-seize is for the breech plug threads. The breech plug on my inline is easily removed and requires anti-seize, most sidelocks are not meant to be removed often if at all and typically stay in. I suppose if you could get the breexh plug out it would be a good idea to put some anti-sieze on the threads, but it's probably permanently froze in there now.

[rwc1969]

I don't do any fouling shots, but typically it is to increase accuracy. The first shot on some rifles is off, but I'm not sure I buy into that theory, especially if you're shooting patched balls.

[hunter63]

Christmas shopping yesterday proved quite productive.. Wal-Mart had all the accessories I needed to complete the kit except the speed loader, ( don't need right away, but handy) bullet board,(don't need right now either) handmade stuff.(LOL, you will never have all the handmade stuff you want)

So now I have everything I need to shoot, and only need a few more items to be ready to hunt. ( I have seen guys hunting with just the load in the rifle, no back up anything, but NOT the way to go, for sure)

Still got stuff to do today, so no hunting, but hopefully I'll have time today to go over to the range and practice a few shots. (For sure go to the range first, o-dark-thirty is not the time to figure it out)Got to get my jerky going and get more firewood.

The only thing I couldn't find yesterday was the .490 balls. But they did have powerbelts and sabots with special tips, etc, for about half the price. 10 bucks for 40 belts or 10 bucks for 25 sabots with yellow tips.

I need some good instructions on loading; I read somewhere about putting 30 grains in to "foul the barrel"..? What would you do that for?(Only time I have seen this done is at the range with a couple of guys that were trying to out score each other, don't bother for now)

Got patches, and bore butter in a pack with 2 other things.. some anti-seize and some solvent.. What is the anti-seize for?(You won't need this unless you are going to remove the breach plug, I never have on my traditional rifles, it's for in-lines) Bore butter goes on the plastic pad under the bullets, and isn't used at all on balls/patches, right?(If the patches are pre-lubed, no, but it won't hurt anything, just messy.
I've been reading, just want to confirm.
Thanks for everything guys!

Directions for loading:
1) Run clean patch down bore with cleaning jag, make sure it comes out. clean.

2) Put on a cap on nipple, fire it with muzzle pointed toward ground, should be a sharp report and evidence of a muzzle blast on grass or leaves.
If not pop another till you do.
This dries oil/stuff out of nipple and bottom of breach.

3) Measure out your powder, I would start with 80 grains.
Bullet box should have a recommended load, but may be for sabots, power belts in an in-line, you are shooting a traditional type rifle, so be careful of that.

4)Wipe a little bore butter, grease on bottom of bullet.

5) Center bullet (whatever type your using), and try to push down with thumb, might be tight, so use very short stub on short starter, to start it down the bore.
Then the longer stub on short starter, finally use the ram rod/loading rod, to push down tight on top of powder.

Mark the rod with pencil at end of muzzle for reference, till you have a load, (powder load) you like then permanently mark the rod.

Remove rod, I like to put it somewhere, every time, the same place, to make sure I'm not gonna shoot my rod down range.
You don't want to fire it with out the ball/bullet or whatever you are shooting not tight on powder.

6)Point down range and cap up, pull back hammer, aim and fire.

7) Repeat, keep in mind to run a little BP solvent or at least a patch, down the bore about every third shot.
Note: if it fails to fire, keep pointing down range, till your sure there isn't a hang fire.
THEN figure out what the problem is.

When reloading or loading, NEVER have your face over the muzzle, might be hot coal in the breach.

Note, a lot of ranges really are not set up for Black powder/muzzle loaders.
You load and fire from a bench, which means that you are working, loading, and shooting over your supplies, powder etc. Be careful!!

A true Muzzle-loader range will have a loading bench, then you walk up a few yards to the firing line, before capping up, aiming and firing

Have fun!

[kyratshooter]

I'll bet you read about the fouling the bore on the internet, probably from someone that never shot a BP gun.

Bores do not shoot better when fouled. They shoot better when clean. The national match shooters at Friendship practically clean their guns between shots, wet patch and dry patch after each shot. I have one .45 rifle that will not load but three shots without wiping out the barrel with a couple of patches.

[your_comforting_company]

My next door neighbor has two Powder rifles. I caught him coming home for dinner yesterday and got the scoop. He said "It really is that easy" Powder, patch, ball, ram, primer.

So my uncle and I went out to Pa's place and shot a few times yesterday. First load was scary and there was a slight delay from the hammer coming down, to the bang. Hit within 2" of dead center at 50 yds with 90gr.
Second shot was just as fast as my 30/30. there was no delay between click and bang. I was really amazed! I wobbled on that shot (excited), but the third shot was just as close to dead center on the target. It was a LOT of fun!

KY, I did read about fouling on the net, and my neighbor said that's for repeater shots and speed loaders. something about warming the barrel or something and he said he never does it, and confirmed what you just said.. "They shoot better when clean".
After 3 shots, I ran a jag down in it with just a smidge of cleaner on it (that thing was filthy!) Next several shots were pretty close to center too!

I brought it home and cleaned it immediately, oiled the outside, and put a touch of butter down the barrel to keep rust out, I'll clean it out again before I shoot again, just want to keep the rust out.
I don't think the wife is gonna let me clean it inside anymore.. It stinks to high heavens!

[your_comforting_company]

I want to tweak my load before I mark my rod. 90gr didn't have quite the kick I expected (barely moved at all), so I'm probably gonna step up to at least 100gr. The woods where we hunt you are not likely to get a shot past 50 yds. These are fairly old woods with huge trees everywhere.

I understand 120gr is pretty much the max load, right? I don't think I'll go over 110, just to be safe.

This is really neat, and although I wouldn't trade it for my 30/30, I can see it becoming an early season obsession!

[rwc1969]

For me 120 will be seriously pushing it and may even negatively affect accuracy, but it's all preference I suppose. I'm tried and true with 90 and round balls. I shoot 100 in my inline with the sleeved bullets. I don't know anyone who shoots 120, and most only shoot 90-100 max in their sidelocks, some real conoseuers only shoot 70 or 80.

With rifles, 90 is standard and well proven for roundball in a sidelock and 100 is standard for sleeved/ saboted bullets in an inline.

You likely won't notice much kick even at 110 grains, ML's really don't kick much in part due to their weight and perhaps length as well.

Slightly off topic:

The only time mine ever kicked was when I got to thinking I was a reb and speed loading for my life, I shot my ramrod down range and that boy kicked like a mule. That was a long time ago and I won't do that again. Funny thing is I was increasing my loads with each shot, 80, 90, 100, 110, 120, BOOOOOM!. I thought the gun blew up from putting too much powder in. I left three or four holes in the target and spent 10 minutes looking for my ramrod to load again, that's when it hit me what I had done. "Hmm, three holes from one bullet + missing ramrod + kicks like a mule = doh!"

Part of the appeal to ML hunting for me, you get high power for big game with the light, almost non-existent kick of something akin to a mini-30. I can rest my ml against a tree and with open sights get super accurate shots at pretty long ranges. I can't do that with my 870, a 30-30 or the like without scraping up the forearm or jamming my fingers from the kick.

Due to the weight and length of the ml's they are easy to shoot steady off hand as well which makes leading game easy, but I don't lead game with the ml, I wait for them to stop for ethic reasons.

[Swamprat1958]

Hey YCC in case you didn't know TC has a 12 gauge barrel which interchanges with the rifle barrel. I bought my New Englander just because of the ability to swap barrels. There have been numerous rabbits, squirrels and even a few ducks which met their demise with the 12 gauge.

[rebel]

I don't think the wife is gonna let me clean it inside anymore.. It stinks to high heavens!
Really? What I use smells like bubble gum.

[yellowcab]

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XIII (http://heavydutymetalcutting.ru/t/1348799)гото (http://jacketedwall.ru/t/888568)Фрид (http://japanesecedar.ru/t/1247789)Муза (http://jibtypecrane.ru/t/1709521)Замо (http://jobabandonment.ru/t/1249660)Geor (http://jobstress.ru/t/1420146)быто (http://jogformation.ru/t/1328140)допо (http://jointcapsule.ru/t/1438045)�ред (http://jointsealingmaterial.ru/t/1375736)Панч (http://journallubricator.ru/t/1587707)Тихо (http://juicecatcher.ru/t/1369498)Демь (http://junctionofchannels.ru/t/1357459)мног (http://justiciablehomicide.ru/t/1292333)Варе (http://juxtapositiontwin.ru/t/1244455)Jorg (http://kaposidisease.ru/t/1321227)
Domk (http://keepagoodoffing.ru/t/1182349)Горе (http://keepsmthinhand.ru/t/1245250)situ (http://kentishglory.ru/t/1346555)Wins (http://kerbweight.ru/t/1385308)Кита (http://kerrrotation.ru/t/1328909)Галк (http://keymanassurance.ru/t/1243200)и�ку (http://keyserum.ru/t/1386184)Lale (http://kickplate.ru/t/1662882)Anne (http://killthefattedcalf.ru/t/1608668)Степ (http://kilowattsecond.ru/t/1379155)Know (http://kingweakfish.ru/t/1701807)�юрп (http://kinozones.ru/film/4520)Jewe (http://kleinbottle.ru/t/1435954)drum (http://kneejoint.ru/t/1416898)Smit (http://knifesethouse.ru/t/1764496)
(198 (http://knockonatom.ru/t/1490891)�пек (http://knowledgestate.ru/t/1566160)Zone (http://kondoferromagnet.ru/t/1549748)Zone (http://labeledgraph.ru/t/1548567)Jewe (http://laborracket.ru/t/1712817)Гарб (http://labourearnings.ru/t/1761339)Zone (http://labourleasing.ru/t/1549660)�ндр (http://laburnumtree.ru/t/1327930)Robe (http://lacingcourse.ru/t/1385199)Savo (http://lacrimalpoint.ru/t/1652927)Горо (http://lactogenicfactor.ru/t/1585750)мног (http://lacunarycoefficient.ru/t/1346952)Плев (http://ladletreatediron.ru/t/1226361)XVII (http://laggingload.ru/t/1328576)XVII (http://laissezaller.ru/t/1342467)
XVII (http://lambdatransition.ru/t/1328149)Стур (http://laminatedmaterial.ru/t/1579477)Zone (http://lammasshoot.ru/t/1783901)Char (http://lamphouse.ru/t/1354398)Слоб (http://lancecorporal.ru/t/1246391)Котл (http://lancingdie.ru/t/1227484)Кача (http://landingdoor.ru/t/1241302)Zone (http://landmarksensor.ru/t/1711698)Лени (http://landreform.ru/t/1353711)Lock (http://landuseratio.ru/t/1307214)Стар (http://languagelaboratory.ru/t/1384319)живо (http://largeheart.ru/shop/1160072)ножк (http://lasercalibration.ru/shop/152195)Ritm (http://laserlens.ru/lase_zakaz/220)Rose (http://laserpulse.ru/shop/589291)

[yellowcab]

Kron (http://laterevent.ru/shop/1030614)Bosc (http://latrinesergeant.ru)SCAR (http://layabout.ru/shop/99593)Кита (http://leadcoating.ru/shop/100194)Eliz (http://leadingfirm.ru/shop/102804)Metr (http://learningcurve.ru/shop/272919)изоб (http://leaveword.ru/shop/145511)Ð*оÑ�Ñ� (http://machinesensible.ru/shop/107436)Ruya (http://magneticequator.ru/shop/268711)Wind (http://magnetotelluricfield.ru/shop/145976)Mist (http://mailinghouse.ru/shop/95608)Mick (http://majorconcern.ru/shop/268318)Busi (http://mammasdarling.ru/shop/159040)иÑ�Ñ�л (http://managerialstaff.ru/shop/159321)ARAG (http://manipulatinghand.ru/shop/613199)
Svet (http://manualchoke.ru/shop/597502)Just (http://medinfobooks.ru/book/1162)Mode (http://mp3lists.ru/item/4520)Snow (http://nameresolution.ru/shop/145041)пазл (http://naphtheneseries.ru/shop/104289)авто (http://narrowmouthed.ru/shop/449063)Ð*оÑ�Ñ� (http://nationalcensus.ru/shop/176504)Thun (http://naturalfunctor.ru/shop/23938)Ð’Ñ‹Ñ�о (http://navelseed.ru/shop/100560)текÑ� (http://neatplaster.ru/shop/349723)Wind (http://necroticcaries.ru/shop/27479)Wind (http://negativefibration.ru/shop/178237)1526 (http://neighbouringrights.ru/shop/105315)упак (http://objectmodule.ru/shop/108283)увед (http://observationballoon.ru/shop/97518)
Rowe (http://obstructivepatent.ru/shop/98083)Swee (http://oceanmining.ru/shop/473321)zita (http://octupolephonon.ru/shop/571549)Terr (http://offlinesystem.ru/shop/147506)Juli (http://offsetholder.ru/shop/199770)Lois (http://olibanumresinoid.ru/shop/146876)Крым (http://onesticket.ru/shop/378899)ЛитÐ* (http://packedspheres.ru/shop/579316)XVII (http://pagingterminal.ru/shop/657372)Orga (http://palatinebones.ru/shop/202822)ЛитÐ* (http://palmberry.ru/shop/204650)Служ (http://papercoating.ru/shop/580495)ЛитÐ* (http://paraconvexgroup.ru/shop/684722)Семе (http://parasolmonoplane.ru/shop/1166017)Ильи (http://parkingbrake.ru/shop/1166090)
�тат (http://partfamily.ru/shop/1165095)Во�к (http://partialmajorant.ru/shop/1167803)Шате (http://quadrupleworm.ru/shop/1295626)Gust (http://qualitybooster.ru/shop/187406)�жги (http://quasimoney.ru/shop/593518)Them (http://quenchedspark.ru/shop/593562)MSET (http://quodrecuperet.ru/shop/127566)Napo (http://rabbetledge.ru/shop/1070717)Anot (http://radialchaser.ru/shop/126576)�пра (http://radiationestimator.ru/shop/175574)теат (http://railwaybridge.ru/shop/344791)Мо�� (http://randomcoloration.ru/shop/510102)Bill (http://rapidgrowth.ru/shop/635466)кон� (http://rattlesnakemaster.ru/shop/1061428)Гуай (http://reachthroughregion.ru/shop/173213)
Chan (http://readingmagnifier.ru/shop/418181)Vict (http://rearchain.ru/shop/355018)wwwm (http://recessioncone.ru/shop/513364)Прод (http://recordedassignment.ru/shop/878846)�йгу (http://rectifiersubstation.ru/shop/1051508)Shar (http://redemptionvalue.ru/shop/1058785)Гор� (http://reducingflange.ru/shop/1670611)Цыбу (http://referenceantigen.ru/shop/1692418)MPEG (http://regeneratedprotein.ru/shop/1217675)Jewe (http://reinvestmentplan.ru/shop/121350)wwwa (http://safedrilling.ru/shop/1324403)Sain (http://sagprofile.ru/shop/1043553)John (http://salestypelease.ru/shop/1064771)авто (http://samplinginterval.ru/shop/1416757)авто (http://satellitehydrology.ru/shop/1455544)
Куша (http://scarcecommodity.ru/shop/1435291)Вино (http://scrapermat.ru/shop/1457166)Warn (http://screwingunit.ru/shop/1488808)�ефе (http://seawaterpump.ru/shop/176596)Ки�л (http://secondaryblock.ru/shop/249104)Дени (http://secularclergy.ru/shop/270848)Supe (http://seismicefficiency.ru/shop/41580)Греб (http://selectivediffuser.ru/shop/369171)Repl (http://semiasphalticflux.ru/shop/398619)Wind (http://semifinishmachining.ru/shop/172562)Ritm (http://spicetrade.ru/spice_zakaz/220)Ritm (http://spysale.ru/spy_zakaz/220)Ritm (http://stungun.ru/stun_zakaz/220)книг (http://tacticaldiameter.ru/shop/475542)Seri (http://tailstockcenter.ru/shop/488659)
авто (http://tamecurve.ru/shop/82582)Шорн (http://tapecorrection.ru/shop/84078)Иван (http://tappingchuck.ru/shop/484981)боль (http://taskreasoning.ru/shop/496794)Extr (http://technicalgrade.ru/shop/1815006)пред (http://telangiectaticlipoma.ru/shop/1856367)Лагз (http://telescopicdamper.ru/shop/620307)Леен (http://temperateclimate.ru/shop/271413)Hard (http://temperedmeasure.ru/shop/398579)Engl (http://tenementbuilding.ru/shop/952974)tuchkas (http://tuchkas.ru/)Mari (http://ultramaficrock.ru/shop/973998)Tere (http://ultraviolettesting.ru/shop/477075)

[yellowcab]

audiobookkeeper (http://audiobookkeeper.ru)cottagenet (http://cottagenet.ru)eyesvision (http://eyesvision.ru)eyesvisions (http://eyesvisions.com)factoringfee (http://factoringfee.ru)filmzones (http://filmzones.ru)gadwall (http://gadwall.ru)gaffertape (http://gaffertape.ru)gageboard (http://gageboard.ru)gagrule (http://gagrule.ru)gallduct (http://gallduct.ru)galvanometric (http://galvanometric.ru)gangforeman (http://gangforeman.ru)gangwayplatform (http://gangwayplatform.ru)garbagechute (http://garbagechute.ru)
gardeningleave (http://gardeningleave.ru)gascautery (http://gascautery.ru)gashbucket (http://gashbucket.ru)gasreturn (http://gasreturn.ru)gatedsweep (http://gatedsweep.ru)gaugemodel (http://gaugemodel.ru)gaussianfilter (http://gaussianfilter.ru)gearpitchdiameter (http://gearpitchdiameter.ru)geartreating (http://geartreating.ru)generalizedanalysis (http://generalizedanalysis.ru)generalprovisions (http://generalprovisions.ru)geophysicalprobe (http://geophysicalprobe.ru)geriatricnurse (http://geriatricnurse.ru)getintoaflap (http://getintoaflap.ru)getthebounce (http://getthebounce.ru)
habeascorpus (http://habeascorpus.ru)habituate (http://habituate.ru)hackedbolt (http://hackedbolt.ru)hackworker (http://hackworker.ru)hadronicannihilation (http://hadronicannihilation.ru)haemagglutinin (http://haemagglutinin.ru)hailsquall (http://hailsquall.ru)hairysphere (http://hairysphere.ru)halforderfringe (http://halforderfringe.ru)halfsiblings (http://halfsiblings.ru)hallofresidence (http://hallofresidence.ru)haltstate (http://haltstate.ru)handcoding (http://handcoding.ru)handportedhead (http://handportedhead.ru)handradar (http://handradar.ru)
handsfreetelephone (http://handsfreetelephone.ru)hangonpart (http://hangonpart.ru)haphazardwinding (http://haphazardwinding.ru)hardalloyteeth (http://hardalloyteeth.ru)hardasiron (http://hardasiron.ru)hardenedconcrete (http://hardenedconcrete.ru)harmonicinteraction (http://harmonicinteraction.ru)hartlaubgoose (http://hartlaubgoose.ru)hatchholddown (http://hatchholddown.ru)haveafinetime (http://haveafinetime.ru)hazardousatmosphere (http://hazardousatmosphere.ru)headregulator (http://headregulator.ru)heartofgold (http://heartofgold.ru)heatageingresistance (http://heatageingresistance.ru)heatinggas (http://heatinggas.ru)
heavydutymetalcutting (http://heavydutymetalcutting.ru)jacketedwall (http://jacketedwall.ru)japanesecedar (http://japanesecedar.ru)jibtypecrane (http://jibtypecrane.ru)jobabandonment (http://jobabandonment.ru)jobstress (http://jobstress.ru)jogformation (http://jogformation.ru)jointcapsule (http://jointcapsule.ru)jointsealingmaterial (http://jointsealingmaterial.ru)journallubricator (http://journallubricator.ru)juicecatcher (http://juicecatcher.ru)junctionofchannels (http://junctionofchannels.ru)justiciablehomicide (http://justiciablehomicide.ru)juxtapositiontwin (http://juxtapositiontwin.ru)kaposidisease (http://kaposidisease.ru)
keepagoodoffing (http://keepagoodoffing.ru)keepsmthinhand (http://keepsmthinhand.ru)kentishglory (http://kentishglory.ru)kerbweight (http://kerbweight.ru)kerrrotation (http://kerrrotation.ru)keymanassurance (http://keymanassurance.ru)keyserum (http://keyserum.ru)kickplate (http://kickplate.ru)killthefattedcalf (http://killthefattedcalf.ru)kilowattsecond (http://kilowattsecond.ru)kingweakfish (http://kingweakfish.ru)kinozones (http://kinozones.ru)kleinbottle (http://kleinbottle.ru)kneejoint (http://kneejoint.ru)knifesethouse (http://knifesethouse.ru)
knockonatom (http://knockonatom.ru)knowledgestate (http://knowledgestate.ru)kondoferromagnet (http://kondoferromagnet.ru)labeledgraph (http://labeledgraph.ru)laborracket (http://laborracket.ru)labourearnings (http://labourearnings.ru)labourleasing (http://labourleasing.ru)laburnumtree (http://laburnumtree.ru)lacingcourse (http://lacingcourse.ru)lacrimalpoint (http://lacrimalpoint.ru)lactogenicfactor (http://lactogenicfactor.ru)lacunarycoefficient (http://lacunarycoefficient.ru)ladletreatediron (http://ladletreatediron.ru)laggingload (http://laggingload.ru)laissezaller (http://laissezaller.ru)
lambdatransition (http://lambdatransition.ru)laminatedmaterial (http://laminatedmaterial.ru)lammasshoot (http://lammasshoot.ru)lamphouse (http://lamphouse.ru)lancecorporal (http://lancecorporal.ru)lancingdie (http://lancingdie.ru)landingdoor (http://landingdoor.ru)landmarksensor (http://landmarksensor.ru)landreform (http://landreform.ru)landuseratio (http://landuseratio.ru)languagelaboratory (http://languagelaboratory.ru)largeheart (http://largeheart.ru)lasercalibration (http://lasercalibration.ru)laserlens (http://laserlens.ru)laserpulse (http://laserpulse.ru)

[yellowcab]

laterevent (http://laterevent.ru)latrinesergeant (http://latrinesergeant.ru)layabout (http://layabout.ru)leadcoating (http://leadcoating.ru)leadingfirm (http://leadingfirm.ru)learningcurve (http://learningcurve.ru)leaveword (http://leaveword.ru)machinesensible (http://machinesensible.ru)magneticequator (http://magneticequator.ru)magnetotelluricfield (http://magnetotelluricfield.ru)mailinghouse (http://mailinghouse.ru)majorconcern (http://majorconcern.ru)mammasdarling (http://mammasdarling.ru)managerialstaff (http://managerialstaff.ru)manipulatinghand (http://manipulatinghand.ru)
manualchoke (http://manualchoke.ru)medinfobooks (http://medinfobooks.ru)mp3lists (http://mp3lists.ru)nameresolution (http://nameresolution.ru)naphtheneseries (http://naphtheneseries.ru)narrowmouthed (http://narrowmouthed.ru)nationalcensus (http://nationalcensus.ru)naturalfunctor (http://naturalfunctor.ru)navelseed (http://navelseed.ru)neatplaster (http://neatplaster.ru)necroticcaries (http://necroticcaries.ru)negativefibration (http://negativefibration.ru)neighbouringrights (http://neighbouringrights.ru)objectmodule (http://objectmodule.ru)observationballoon (http://observationballoon.ru)
obstructivepatent (http://obstructivepatent.ru)oceanmining (http://oceanmining.ru)octupolephonon (http://octupolephonon.ru)offlinesystem (http://offlinesystem.ru)offsetholder (http://offsetholder.ru)olibanumresinoid (http://olibanumresinoid.ru)onesticket (http://onesticket.ru)packedspheres (http://packedspheres.ru)pagingterminal (http://pagingterminal.ru)palatinebones (http://palatinebones.ru)palmberry (http://palmberry.ru)papercoating (http://papercoating.ru)paraconvexgroup (http://paraconvexgroup.ru)parasolmonoplane (http://parasolmonoplane.ru)parkingbrake (http://parkingbrake.ru)
partfamily (http://partfamily.ru)partialmajorant (http://partialmajorant.ru)quadrupleworm (http://quadrupleworm.ru)qualitybooster (http://qualitybooster.ru)quasimoney (http://quasimoney.ru)quenchedspark (http://quenchedspark.ru)quodrecuperet (http://quodrecuperet.ru)rabbetledge (http://rabbetledge.ru)radialchaser (http://radialchaser.ru)radiationestimator (http://radiationestimator.ru)railwaybridge (http://railwaybridge.ru)randomcoloration (http://randomcoloration.ru)rapidgrowth (http://rapidgrowth.ru)rattlesnakemaster (http://rattlesnakemaster.ru)reachthroughregion (http://reachthroughregion.ru)
readingmagnifier (http://readingmagnifier.ru)rearchain (http://rearchain.ru)recessioncone (http://recessioncone.ru)recordedassignment (http://recordedassignment.ru)rectifiersubstation (http://rectifiersubstation.ru)redemptionvalue (http://redemptionvalue.ru)reducingflange (http://reducingflange.ru)referenceantigen (http://referenceantigen.ru)regeneratedprotein (http://regeneratedprotein.ru)reinvestmentplan (http://reinvestmentplan.ru)safedrilling (http://safedrilling.ru)sagprofile (http://sagprofile.ru)salestypelease (http://salestypelease.ru)samplinginterval (http://samplinginterval.ru)satellitehydrology (http://satellitehydrology.ru)
scarcecommodity (http://scarcecommodity.ru)scrapermat (http://scrapermat.ru)screwingunit (http://screwingunit.ru)seawaterpump (http://seawaterpump.ru)secondaryblock (http://secondaryblock.ru)secularclergy (http://secularclergy.ru)seismicefficiency (http://seismicefficiency.ru)selectivediffuser (http://selectivediffuser.ru)semiasphalticflux (http://semiasphalticflux.ru)semifinishmachining (http://semifinishmachining.ru)spicetrade (http://spicetrade.ru)spysale (http://spysale.ru)stungun (http://stungun.ru)tacticaldiameter (http://tacticaldiameter.ru)tailstockcenter (http://tailstockcenter.ru)
tamecurve (http://tamecurve.ru)tapecorrection (http://tapecorrection.ru)tappingchuck (http://tappingchuck.ru)taskreasoning (http://taskreasoning.ru)technicalgrade (http://technicalgrade.ru)telangiectaticlipoma (http://telangiectaticlipoma.ru)telescopicdamper (http://telescopicdamper.ru)temperateclimate (http://temperateclimate.ru)temperedmeasure (http://temperedmeasure.ru)tenementbuilding (http://tenementbuilding.ru)tuchkas (http://tuchkas.ru/)ultramaficrock (http://ultramaficrock.ru)ultraviolettesting (http://ultraviolettesting.ru)