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Alaskan Survivalist
09-23-2010, 10:50 PM
Old Classic Pole Structure

I was out playing in the woods today trying out a new saw. I won’t mention it beyond that because it was crap but one of the tasks I use small pack saws for is making pole structures to support tarps. I use this method more than any other and is strong enough to hold up to winds and even snow loads. Along the same lines as the tipi thread I started I think it a good excercise for people just starting and maybe don't have much money for a tent.

The first step is to tie two poles together to form a bipod. Use it to support one end of a longer pole you anchor to a tree to steady and brace structure. Just these three poles are much stronger than just tying tarps with rope and I have used just 3 poles before for quick shelters.

http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg346/akmofo/IMG_1385.jpg

Then put another bipod under rear of ridge pole.

http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg346/akmofo/IMG_1386.jpg

Then throw tarp over ridge pole, position bipods and then with length established lash base poles on each side. This adds a lot of support to the tarp.

http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg346/akmofo/IMG_1387.jpg

Tie tarp over the poles.

http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg346/akmofo/IMG_1389.jpg

I leave ridge pole extended out the front for hanging clothes to dry. I build a fire off to one side of front entrance and in warms interior and keeps bugs away. Ridge pole is good for hanging gear and clothes under tarp. This is used more than you can imagine in Alaska’s cold, wet conditions.

http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg346/akmofo/IMG_1390.jpg
This structure can be made much bigger. If you remember my tent on the Yukon was supported with same style structure and I have even set them up and built cabins under them. In the winter you can add more poles and it will stand all winter. You don’t need a lot of money for a tent or great skills to construct one of these and is a great, instant shelter.

rwc1969
09-24-2010, 02:03 AM
The construction of that first pic is almost identical to the outhouse we build when up north deer hunting. It works quite well with a small hole, milk crate with a toilet lid on top and a big blue tarp to cover it all up.

But, going out there @ 4 in the morning when it's 10 degrees or so is a wake up call.

crashdive123
09-24-2010, 06:49 AM
Nice set-up AS. Thanks for taking the time to show us.

Rick
09-24-2010, 07:15 AM
Great post, AS. A little rep for the tutorial.

A note to any new comers. When setting up any type of shelter in the woods make certain to check overhead for any dead limbs that could fall. Widow makers earned their name for a reason.

Sourdough
09-24-2010, 01:37 PM
Well done, nice post. I have a suggestion: I use lashing a lot, but many here may confuse lashing with just tie stuff together. Maybe someone could teach the proper way to lash for rigid construction. Lashing and knots is clearly the most valuable tool I learned in Boy Scouts.

pgvoutdoors
09-24-2010, 01:57 PM
The Dump is a website of scouting materials from the BSA, Canadian, and UK scouting programs. Much of it is older materials can be downloaded as a PDF file.

http://www.thedump.scoutscan.com/nonfict.html

Below is a old Pioneering Book that has many of the common lashings use to make field prodjects.

http://scoutmaster.typepad.com/pioneeringbook.pdf

http://www.thedump.scoutscan.com/pionprinciples.pdf

http://www.thedump.scoutscan.com/progpioneering.pdf

http://www.thedump.scoutscan.com/pioneering.pdf

hunter63
09-24-2010, 02:04 PM
The older Boy Scout manuals seem to be big in chopping things down, then lashing them back together.
I thinking a lot of it was just to practice those lashing skills, but I still haven't figured out the signal tower thing.

AS, another great tutorial, on a very basic solid shelter.

Rick
09-24-2010, 02:27 PM
Phil, as usual, that's a great set of links. Some really good stuff in there. I've downloaded them for same keeping.

Rick
09-24-2010, 11:25 PM
I sure hate to break this to you but the shovel is $9.99 now. Yeah I know. But it's not 1976 any more.

Great write up. A couple of questions for you. Have you sharpened the edge of the shovel? Yours looks sharper than the pic on the Coleman page. Also, what's the weight?

Sam
09-24-2010, 11:56 PM
I think we often tend to complicate things too much in our desire to relate as much information as possible. This is something I learned in Boy Scouts years ago. I wish I could find an old Boy Scout manual. The new ones don't have much of this kind of information. I guess it only stands to reason that with higher usage of parks people can't go around cutting trees like we did when we were Boy Scouts but IMO the old Scout manuals are the best I have seen in my life on wilderness survival.

My friend gave me a 1960 edition with artwork from Norman Rockwell in it.
He found it in a used book store in the 'thumb' of MI. It is pretty awesome.

RangerXanatos
09-25-2010, 12:54 AM
Pole Structures were some of my favorite things to build. Last one I did, I covered with a matress and boxspring plastic. My mom decided it would be a great place for her hanging plants and I never got it back.

Justin Case
09-25-2010, 06:50 PM
Not a rant,, very sensible post IMO.

Rick
09-25-2010, 06:55 PM
AS - That may well be one of the best posts (best all around advice) we have on here. I think a lot of us feel the same way. Figure out what you want to try, try it, figure out what went wrong, modify and try it again. If you keep doing that it won't be long until you have the system that's right for you.

I do like your coot kit (kootkit?). That's a great basic set of tools and you should be able to get out of anything you get into with it or make camp or anything else you need to do.


the strings of my old one would dig into me unless I was wearing clothing

:eek::eek::eek::eek:

Rick
09-25-2010, 07:11 PM
Oh, well there you go. I have a picture of that somewhere. Now where did I put that?

crashdive123
09-25-2010, 08:51 PM
No rant at all. Many of us have been saying the same thing for a long time.

Winter
09-25-2010, 09:13 PM
Good thread.

Rick
09-26-2010, 12:35 AM
Sterno isn't designed to boil things. It's designed to hold foods at a warming temperature. It's designed to maintain at least 140F, which is the minimum safe holding temperature for foods. It won't boil water.

However, in your climate especially Sterno may be a good choice. It won't freeze and even 140 degree water is a pretty good drink if you are cold. It could keep hypothermia at bay. It's flash point is around 55F so it ignites pretty easy. I've never tried to light it with a fire steel, which might be a decent test.

Rick
09-26-2010, 12:52 AM
It's actually on the bottom but...yeah. (it's not really). I did the same thing last year and did some digging as to why it wouldn't boil. It's an alcohol base so it should work, so I thought. Turns out the pink stuff added to the alcohol is designed to hold it just above that 140 mark. That's why they can sit it under dishes of food for hours and not have the food burn.

Justin Case
09-26-2010, 09:09 AM
Everything I know I learned the hard way. Please don't tell me that's written on the side of the can.

LOL,,,, ha ha,,,, Thanks for the early morning chuckle :)

Rick
09-28-2010, 11:00 AM
Just out of curiosity, what kind of fresh water fish do you have?

SARKY
09-29-2010, 02:36 PM
AS, when I saw that photo of the MK-3 knife, I thought you had snapped the blade. We would issue those to the SERE students and in any class one would be snapped right at that area. Students are hard on knives! I'm not a big fan of the knife my self and even less of a fan of the MK whatever the heck it is aviators survival knife. I replaced the one in my SV-2 with a ColdSteel Master Hunter.

Rick
09-29-2010, 02:38 PM
I have to admit, I thought it had snapped as well. I thought sure the post was going to be about it breaking.

AS - Will a creek that size still provide fish in the middle of winter? It doesn't look very deep and given the temps up your way I was wondering if it would freeze solid.

pete lynch
09-29-2010, 04:38 PM
I've heard that those creeks will freeze from the bottom up.

Rick
09-29-2010, 08:19 PM
Odd. Water almost always freezes from the top down. You can turn your water bottle over in the winter. If it freezes it will be on the top (which is really the bottom). When you go to get a drink and turn it right side up you can still drink from it because the ice is on bottom. I hope that makes sense.

RangerXanatos
09-29-2010, 08:43 PM
Odd. Water almost always freezes from the top down. You can turn your water bottle over in the winter. If it freezes it will be on the top (which is really the bottom). When you go to get a drink and turn it right side up you can still drink from it because the ice is on bottom. I hope that makes sense.

Never thought of that but it makes sense. I have also heard that some water will freeze from bottom to top.

http://www.damninteresting.net/content/heavy_water_ice.jpg


Here, we can see ice that actually sinks to the bottom instead of floating. This water is called heavy water. Water is made up of 2 Hydrogens and one Oxygen. What we normally think of Hydrogen contains 1 proton and 1 electron. In heavy water, the hydrogen contains 1 neutron, 1 proton, and 1 electron. This isotope is called Deuterium and is much more dense than regular Hydrogen.

RangerXanatos
09-29-2010, 09:36 PM
The fast flowing creeks that freeze from the bottom up, does this make it easier to fish in or do you ever come across fish in barely enough water to live in? Or do they make it elsewhere before this happens?

Rick
09-29-2010, 10:23 PM
Fast flowing creeks freeze from the bottom and slow creeks will freeze from the top

Makes perfect sense. Around here they install bubblers around the docks in the winter then force air through them to keep the water moving so it won't freeze around the dock.

You gotta love that artesian stream. Open water all winter long has got to be a bonus just for collecting water.

Sourdough
10-01-2010, 09:08 PM
AS, nice post..............Rep point sent. Please keep the useful, information coming, nice useful photos.

Sourdough
10-01-2010, 09:13 PM
AS, are you getting this skanky weather............??????? Yuck....

rwc1969
10-02-2010, 12:11 AM
Looks like fun. I like that fire ring/ reflector. It would take me a long time to gather that many rocks around here.

The National Audubon Society filed guide to North American mushrooms is about as good as it gets for a pocket shroom guide.

Shrooms have a lot of nutrients that plants don't. So, if ya had a lull in the wild game they'd be a welcome addition to the diet. Plus, they are easily preserved by drying.

I don't think they are crucial, but I won't pass em up either if the opp. presents itself. They sure make less pleasant foods taste more pleasant and that's a bonus too.

Rick
10-07-2010, 08:36 PM
AS - You might like Sundowners by Vasque. Folks rarely believe me but my experience was the same as yours. I rafted the Susitna and the Nenana wearing Vasque. My feet were soaked and my boots full of water but they stayed warm the whole time and the water was pretty danged cold.

Sourdough
10-08-2010, 01:58 AM
You can also use black garbage bags.

pete lynch
10-08-2010, 05:25 AM
I wear the knee-highTingley overshoes on top of canvas deck shoes w/wool socks on my canoe trips. I wade a bunch of creeks while clearing out brush on the canoe trails around here.

canid
10-08-2010, 05:43 AM
Never thought of that but it makes sense. I have also heard that some water will freeze from bottom to top.

http://www.damninteresting.net/content/heavy_water_ice.jpg


Here, we can see ice that actually sinks to the bottom instead of floating. This water is called heavy water. Water is made up of 2 Hydrogens and one Oxygen. What we normally think of Hydrogen contains 1 proton and 1 electron. In heavy water, the hydrogen contains 1 neutron, 1 proton, and 1 electron. This isotope is called Deuterium and is much more dense than regular Hydrogen.

water will begin forming ice wherever the energy is being lost quickest.

put water in an aluminum pot in the freezer, and you'll see ice forming where the aluminum is conducting the heat away. put it in an insulated plastic tub and the ice will form on the open top.

hunter63
10-08-2010, 10:33 AM
Thanks SJJ. I had every intention of getting overshoes but once I started looking around I bought another pair of gortex boots but this time I spent another 20 bucks to get LaCrosse boots. I have only had one pair of LaCrosse boots but I have had them for twenty years now and they are still in good shape.

I'm a fan (or was) of Lacrosse boots, as well, back of the truck looks like a boot store during the fall hunting seasons.
A lot of mine have been around a long time.
Used to be made here in Wisconsin, mostly China now, but them again so are most anything........

I bad about loading all the gear on the first part of Sept and not taking it out till mid December.

rwc1969
10-09-2010, 02:27 AM
Good stuff, and practicing it keeps it fresh in your head. i did all kinds of things when I was a kid, but after not doing them for 10 or more years I got rusty.

Rick
10-09-2010, 06:42 AM
Why couldn't you carry something like a garbage bag or piece of plastic with your tarp to cover the end and still leave your poncho functional? Seems to me if you got a big snow your poncho will be trapped under it so if you want/need to leave you'll either have to dig out your poncho, destroying your back wall or just leave it there. That would be bad enough in winter but when the weather is changing where you could have snow and rain it would be pretty unhandy. Just a suggestion.

Sourdough
10-09-2010, 08:30 AM
Alaskan Survivalist, I have really enjoyed this thread. Thanks for all the interesting contributions you make to the forum. Sorry, I tried to give you more rep points, but it says I got'ta spread the love. Well done. Thanks again.

PS. I see you have a Fall Gun Show in Palmer today.

Sourdough
10-09-2010, 01:38 PM
Marcus will be writing it up on his page if you are interested....or you could come?

Sadly, One of the traps of my lifestyle, is that I have to be here and attend the wood stove every 3 to 5 hours for the next seven months. It will be the end of April befor I can be gone long. By next winter I'll be in the new cabin.

Sourdough
10-09-2010, 10:24 PM
Yes the new cabin will have oil heat. And wood and electric heat.

rwc1969
10-10-2010, 12:04 AM
It makes you feel like a kid again too. Now all I need to do is to get some old guys down the road to do the same and we can arm ourselves with BB guns and try to destroy each others forts... I mean BOL's (all in the name of survival training ofcoarse).

Now that's what I'm talking about, bb gun wars, woohoo! It's been a long time.

Sourdough
11-04-2010, 09:24 PM
AS, Thanks for the information. I have been thinking about building several shelters with-in a few miles of my cabin. I am thinking I could even stock them with split firewood. I could take the chainsaw on the snowmachine. I really like the idea of having spots set-up. Kind of a fall'back position.

crashdive123
11-04-2010, 10:14 PM
In the area and terrain that you guys live, that is a very good idea.

hunter63
11-08-2010, 05:43 PM
In my endless search for better gear I tripped across a small 16 dollar hatchet this week that looked worthy of purchase and a field test.

http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg346/akmofo/IMG_1534.jpg

I've said before that in pursuit of lighter equipment that often it becomes useless for its purpose and this tool comes dangerously close to that. I chopped a small alder with it and as you can see the chips are rather small. In fact it is on a par with my knife for chopping larger poles. I will get the job done but not efficiently. I consider speed that I can accomplish a task with a tool as much as weight. I post these tests here so they can be put into context of how I use them. It is only in context that this tool begins to show promise. I have found that it cuts small branchs and splits small pieces of wood far better than my knife and more accurately. With pole construction removing branchs is large part of work and it is perfect for chopping the size wood I use for my Volcano stove. Chopping with my knife also dulls it quickly and this would save blade maintence.

http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg346/akmofo/IMG_1536.jpg

My conclusion is that this tool cannot stand alone but may very well fill a nitch with lighter gear. It has earned at least a place in my kit for one long hike where aching muscles will have a say as to what I carry. It may very well earn a permanent place with my pocket shovel and saw that have proven thier worth on many trips. It is only in this context I would recommend this product.

That small ax is like the hunting pack combo:
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y139/hunter63/DSCF0270.jpg

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y139/hunter63/DSCF0035.jpg

I have to tell you that it's worth it's carry weight.

I'm liking the umbrella idea as well.........Hummmmmmm
Thanks!

hunter63
11-08-2010, 06:40 PM
This was from Sportsman Guide, bottom pic was with the knife it came with, not real crazy about that one, used it on a deer last year, gut hook is worthless, ended up using an old Mora blade I carry inside the pack. (yeah, I know, He who has the most knives when he dies, wins)

Top pic, knife is a Mora, forget the number, but it was too small to fit tight in existing sheath, so I cut up the plastic Mora sheath a little, shoved it in the existing sheath, one rivet to hold it in.

The para cord wrap is around the strap, so as to not lose it, not intended as a "fast draw", but more of an "old guys lose stuff, so tie it on, till needed".

Strap on fanny pack is modified w/a buckle to be able to attach the combo sheath, or not.

Sourdough
11-20-2010, 08:52 AM
AS......any chance the inside diamiter is 3 3/4" I need to find a can about 5" tall and with a Inside dia. of 3 3/4" to 3 7/8"

Rick
11-20-2010, 09:36 AM
Hunter, you knife is a 780. No longer made.

klickitat
12-30-2010, 01:40 AM
Bravo! Falling in the water in those types of temps is nothing to screw with. I absolutely love this. Practical effing survival.

Rick
12-30-2010, 07:31 AM
Another good post, AS. I had never considered using a torch on a canister. I'm not sure why not, just hadn't. I carry one or two MSR canisters with me for my stove so the torch would be an easy and practical addition. Good job!

rwc1969
01-07-2011, 04:13 AM
Interesting. I get about 5 feet for every 2 steps, but that's on fairly level terrain without heavy snow.

your_comforting_company
01-07-2011, 08:48 AM
Now whenever the needle is aligned with north on compass the base will be pointing the course you chose.

You lost me a little there. Can you explain this a little better? Land nav is something that has always just come naturally to me, and I really would like to learn to use the mappers compass. TIA.

Rick
01-07-2011, 08:55 AM
YCC - Try this:

http://www.wilderness-survival.net/forums/showthread.php?t=6956&highlight=read+compass

AS - Did you get some new trigger finger mitts?

Mtnman Mike
01-07-2011, 09:05 AM
Nice to see a good pic thread.

I use quite a few of those camo tarps which I buy at Harborfreight.

I also believe people should figure things out for themselves as A S said in post #19.

I have never taken a class or had anyone show me how to do things in the wild. I don't know how I have even survived without the internet either. Kidding, if people could not tell.

I have learned by trial and error. Fortunately not too many errors.

Rick
01-07-2011, 10:30 AM
Did you get your subtract and add reversed? You did the compass correctly but I think your wording is backwards?

Rick
01-07-2011, 11:19 AM
Subtract easterly deviation and add westerly deviation by turning compass dail.

You subtracted the deviation on your compass. You are western but your instructions say add it.

Rick
01-07-2011, 01:52 PM
I know how to do it I was just confused on your terminology between eastern and western. I thought you meant that's where you were, which would have made it backwards. Your last post clarified it for me, however. Now I'm with you.

All that aside, it's an excellent post and I gave you some rep for it.

Pocomoonskyeyes3
01-07-2011, 02:10 PM
Tried to give you some Rep AS... said I have to "spread the Love" before I could rep you again.

your_comforting_company
01-07-2011, 02:25 PM
That helps a lot. Thanks!!

I'll have to check the deviation for my area.. since I'm closer to the east coast, I suppose I would either add, or have very little deviation at all. I'm pretty much south of Rick.

Pocomoonskyeyes3
01-07-2011, 02:41 PM
Using your Lat/Long under your avatar I determined that you are near Doanlsonville, Ga. So... For your area I found this info.....



DONALSONVILLE
Latitude: 31 2' 25" N
Longitude: 84 52' 45" W
Magnetic declination: 3 47' WEST
Declination is NEGATIVE
Inclination: 60 37'
Magnetic field strength: 48432.6 nT

Info was from this site.....
http://www.magnetic-declination.com/

crashdive123
01-07-2011, 02:43 PM
YCC - you don't have a lot of adjustment to make. For you - Declination = 3 47' W changing by 0 6' W/year

Rick
01-07-2011, 04:08 PM
The line that runs from magnetic north to magnetic south is called the agonic line. We are almost smack on it. Not enough delineation to worry about over short distances. You are actually about 1 degree better than me. I'm at 4 Negative.

crashdive123
01-07-2011, 04:21 PM
I'm about 5 Negative.

your_comforting_company
01-07-2011, 05:27 PM
So in a mile, I'd still be within a few yards of where I was going.. I knew I didn't need a compass. :tongue_smilie:

It would come in handy for figuring out exactly where I am on the map tho.

I usually measure in a "more or less (soandso) direction"

rwc1969
01-08-2011, 02:20 AM
So, if you were dumped in an unknown area, but had a topo map and compass, how would you be able to determine position?

Rick
01-08-2011, 08:54 AM
AS - They do make 4 and 6 inch sextants but they aren't cheap. I've often thought that would be a good tool for a lot of reasons.

http://www.stanleylondon.com/sextsext.htm

Alaskan Survivalist
05-23-2011, 06:57 PM
I've decided after remarks in a resent thread to revive this thread and begin post some of my thursday drills and field tests. In this post I would like to give a special thanks to Sarky. He said he carrys screw hooks in his kit and this sounded like such a great idea I had to try it for myself. It was and although I was only thinking about my lightest kit after using them I'll be getting more to add to each of my kits. Again, thanks to Sarky! Although Sarky is a SERE instructor I would also like to use this opportunity to point out that any housewife that has ever hung a coffee cup under a cabinet using these hooks could have thought of this and I believe people know more about survival than they know.

I have thoroughly tested my 4 season kit and am now working on a lighter kit for hiking and just incase. I have not fully developed or tested it yet but this is the process. It now weighs 3 pounds 13 ounces and designed to be worn on my gun belt. There could be better items to use but I am working with things that did not make it into my other kits and just extra stuff I had. And yes...those screw hooks have a perminent place in the kit now. I can't say it enough, great tip Sarky!

http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg346/akmofo/IMG_1989.jpg

I'm a fan of small kits but honestly Altoid tin kits are a waste of time and so is most of the crap found in them. In the field you quickly discover things can be so light and small they are of no practical use and I have found it better to carry fewer, larger and more practical items (opinionated ain't I). A 16 ounce cup is as small as I feel like dealing with. This one is a Coleman stainless steel cup that I cut the handle off to lighten it and get it to fit in kit. I use a can holder as the handle and is great for heating cans of food in a fire. I also shortened the handle to save weight and fit inside cup. Folding titanium spork fits in cup with lighter, Swiss Army Fisherman, bic, handwarmer that recharges by boiling in water and of coarse the screw hooks. 3 foot diameter net for making a dipnet that I can catch all kinds of small game, birds and fish with. Small nylon tarp and paracord. Hung on the outside of bag is Couglans cheap hatchet, a compass with magnifying glass built in, a maglight and a Nalgene bottle.

http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg346/akmofo/IMG_1990.jpg

I began this test selecting a camp site next to a fallen tree. I combine many survival disaplines and while much shelter can be found and primitive debris shelters can be built it is hard to build a roof that does not leak which is why I bring a tarp, use natural support already in place and later pile debris around it.

http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg346/akmofo/IMG_1991.jpg

The thick bark of the fallen tree was falling off so I just removed enough to give screw hook a solid anchor. This bark is great for the fire too.

http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg346/akmofo/IMG_1992.jpg

Screw hooks set where ever needed makes this so easy.

http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg346/akmofo/IMG_1993.jpg

A couple more set into trees complete the roof. If you look close you can see para cord is also strung between trees to hang clothes to dry by fire that would be set in front of leanto to heat it. You will also notice a pile of fire wood that was made just clearing the ground around site.

http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg346/akmofo/IMG_1994.jpg

To further illustrate how much you may already know as an old trucker I bring this experience to the field with me and one of the best cinch nots is a truckers knot that holds it all together without having to cut paracord so it can be reused later and the whole thing can be pulled down with the yank on one end of the cord.

http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg346/akmofo/IMG_1995.jpg

Another view of camp. This tarp is only 5x7 but in this configuration can be slept under. BTW this is the same size as an Army Poncho. It only took about 10 minutes to set this up and I'm sure I'll get faster as I use these hooks more. If I spent another half hour the sides would be blocked in with brush, a fire reflecter made and leaves piled up for a soft place to sleep.

http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg346/akmofo/IMG_1996.jpg

One further note. The cheap hatchet is made from soft metal that turns out to be an advantage. When I have used knives for chopping wood the blade dulls quickly. The soft metal of this hatchet can be easily sharpened with a rock and used like an Ulu. Click on the picture below to see what I mean.

http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg346/akmofo/th_MVI_1913.jpg (http://s540.photobucket.com/albums/gg346/akmofo/?action=view&current=MVI_1913.mp4)

Send your rep to Sarky. I did!

hunter63
05-23-2011, 08:29 PM
That bag kinda looks like my hunting fanny pack....Including the small ax.

I'm liking the screw hook idea.......and as long as we are into belated thank you's...I want to thank you for the unbrella idea.....found one that is supposed to be able to screw to a tree to keep you dry...and although that use is kinda lame....I works super as a ground blind for turkey hunting as well as a heat reflector/wind break.

I took some pic's of looking out from behind blind, but none of it set up, Duh.
Think it was about $12 buck for a camo one w/tree mounting stuff.

Alaskan Survivalist
05-26-2011, 11:58 PM
The price of gold seems to be going through the roof so this week I put together some prospecting gear and hiked up McRoberts creek just to see how it rode before heading back to Metal Creek later this summer. The pack board weighed 19 poinds 7 ounces and was not to bad but I won't be pushing myself hard with this much weight. The shotgun added another 5 1/2 pounds. Its a 20 guage H&R Topper Junior. It's a youth model but the shorter lenght makes it easier to pack. New sabots make it very lethal as well. I retire on the 31st but I don't see myself living on a just my fixed income and the source of the gold has never been found on Metal Creek so I figured I'd check it out.

http://i540.photobucket.com/albums/gg346/akmofo/IMG_1997.jpg

Most all the time I've spent in the woods I was doing a lot more than just surviving and in fact hardly gave survival a second thought. If you have more reason to be there you may find yourself there more often.

Seniorman
05-27-2011, 11:44 PM
When I was a kid, our Scoutmaster turned us on to the screw hooks to rig a tarp. They work fine.

S.M.

yellowcab
12-07-2025, 11:25 PM
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yellowcab
12-07-2025, 11:27 PM
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yellowcab
03-08-2026, 01:57 AM
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yellowcab
03-08-2026, 01:58 AM
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yellowcab
05-18-2026, 11:40 AM
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yellowcab
05-18-2026, 11:42 AM
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