Question for wood workers...

[COWBOYSURVIVAL]

Maybe the minister of science can help with this. I read where alot of knifemakers are using Muratic Acid (spirits of salt) to treat maple scales. It brings out the grain and darkens the wood. I was wondering would vinegar possibly do something similar? Any other "home" treatments you know of?

[Rick]

CS - I've never used vinegar or acid of any type on wood. I've used gasoline to darken the grain. Of course you have to let it air a while before you bring it inside.

[Rick]

Here's a guy that uses vinegar as a second coat.

http://www.xrestore.com/Pages/Aging.htm

[COWBOYSURVIVAL]

Here's a guy that uses vinegar as a second coat.

http://www.xrestore.com/Pages/Aging.htm

I'll try it on some scrap! Thanks Rick! I want it really dark so this may be the ticket!

[crashdive123]

CS - depending on the look that you are going for, charring it in spots with a torch might look kind of cool.

[Ken]

It's getting harder and harder to find Muriatic Acid in stores around here. That being said, I've actually used a little bleach and/or paint thinner to open up the pores in the wood to accept stain better. The bleach will lighten the wood, but after it dries and gets stained, the wood will stain darker and show more grain. Just my experience.

Try it on some scrap and let me know if it works for you.

[COWBOYSURVIVAL]

It's getting harder and harder to find Muriatic Acid in stores around here. That being said, I've actually used a little bleach and/or paint thinner to open up the pores in the wood to accept stain better. The bleach will lighten the wood, but after it dries and gets stained, the wood will stain darker and show more grain. Just my experience.

Try it on some scrap and let me know if it works for you.

Makes sense! I do know that maple is one of the only hardwoods with open pores. I'll play around on scrap and let ya'll know!

[Ken]

I work with red oak 95% of the time and use Minwax or Formby's. I've gotten some nice effects by mixing stains. One mix was Minwax Golden Oak and Minwax Fruitwood.

[canid]

i've played around with blending mixwas stains too.

if i remember correctly, red oak and golden pecan contrasted great for red oak and hickory.

here is a page that may be right up your street [i don't know why, i just like that expression]: http://www.woodworking.org/WC/Garchi...colorants.html

[Ken]

The other thing to consider is the finish used. High gloss, semi gloss, satin, low luster, or patina rub....... all make a difference in how the grain comes through. Simply dampening the wood first (when using water based stain and finish) will also have some cool effects.

[Julie362]

Danish Oil can work on any wood I am pretty sure. It is also inexpensive and easy to use. Don't leave it open, though, that stuff hardens!

[COWBOYSURVIVAL]

i've played around with blending mixwas stains too.

if i remember correctly, red oak and golden pecan contrasted great for red oak and hickory.

here is a page that may be right up your street [i don't know why, i just like that expression]: http://www.woodworking.org/WC/Garchi...colorants.html

Canid! a very useful link! I have used food coloring before! I am thinking of using a combination of several treatments now! That'll get her dark like I want plus add depth and deep and varying color! Thanks!

[canid]

oh, i didn't see it mentioned in the link, but if you ever need yellow, turmeric is a great dye.

i did a dye a while back with turmeric and green tea that came out pretty cool.

[COWBOYSURVIVAL]

I think I am going to go with a soak in red food coloring and just darken from there with a combination of all of this stuff you guys are posting till I get a alot of color!

[gryffynklm]

Julie, I use danish oil as well for a finish. Unless it is pigmented it will not darken or stain the wood as CS wants to do.

[randyt]

i use nitric acid on curly maple, it is wiped on and then a torch flame is very carefully brushed over the wood until it turns a chestnut colour. ya have to be careful with the torch so ya don't burn the wood. i then kill the acid with a baking soda wash. i let the wood dry. then i take a potassium permanganate solution and swab it on several times and let it dry, i'll swab it again. after it is dry i take three ought steel wool and linseed oil and scrub the bejeezies out of the wood. a few coats of linseed oil and it's done. a gun stock i may rub in some paste wax.

[COWBOYSURVIVAL]

i use nitric acid on curly maple, it is wiped on and then a torch flame is very carefully brushed over the wood until it turns a chestnut colour. ya have to be careful with the torch so ya don't burn the wood. i then kill the acid with a baking soda wash. i let the wood dry. then i take a potassium permanganate solution and swab it on several times and let it dry, i'll swab it again. after it is dry i take three ought steel wool and linseed oil and scrub the bejeezies out of the wood. a few coats of linseed oil and it's done. a gun stock i may rub in some paste wax.

You got it that is what I have been reading up on! Sure is perty! A heat gun or hairdrier prevents burning.

[randyt]

it sure is purty, great minds think alike

[Ken]

A heat gun or hairdrier prevents burning.

Like hell it does. Not when your girlfriend turns around as you're getting out of the shower when she's just finished blow drying her hair and she accidently hits you in the ........... I'm sure that you can finish the story.

[Rick]

Ken - I work with Red Oak as well. After some experimenting, I settled on General Finishes stains. You can find it at Rockler Woodworking. They make a great polyurethane top coat as well. I usually apply three coats with a light 000 rub between each coat.