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Thread: Knives - modern vs traditional

  1. #1
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    Default Knives - modern vs traditional

    Hi everyone, I'm new here and I'm just curious to people's opinions on modern versus traditional knives.

    Personally I'd like to think that for example a Finnish puukko is pretty much ideal - they haven't changed much in ages, and that's probably for a good reason, right? Plus they have been designed and used in serious outdoor conditions for just as long so any 'bugs' should have been out of the design by now. I guess they can safely be labeled 'tried and tested'.

    On the other hand there are all these new knife designs like, for instance, the SOG Seal Pup and many others, which were designed after a serious amount of research on knife use. They could very well be more advanced - synthetic sheaths instead of leather, modern corrosion proofing, etc..

    What do you guys think? Are the new products superior over the classics in every single way imaginable? Or have the classic designs become classic for a darn good reason? In the end, does it just boil down to personal preference, or are there real good reasons to pick one over the other?

    Just curious


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    Administrator Rick's Avatar
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    I think it's another knife thread. Try the search feature. There must be 1001 knife threads on the "best" knife out there. There's also a sticky on the best knife.
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    I'm not looking for the 'best knife'.

    I'm just interested in people's thoughts on this particular criterion - the traditional side versus the high-tech angle.

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    Super Moderator crashdive123's Avatar
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    I honestly don't have a preference. I've got quite a few. What I take out into the woods are what I guess would be called modern. My criteria is that it has to be reliable.
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    well considering that different areas have different traditional knives and those knives usually have specific purposes in my opinion tradition can be the best choice cuz they benn honed to preform at there spicific task
    but if you want a jack-of-all-trades blade go modern better steel also special features like dive knives have ect...my2c

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    Senior Member Ole WV Coot's Avatar
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    Best to check your knife laws. They get a little strange on that side of the pond.
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    What do I think? Think many here put too much emphasis on knives. But, since you asked.

    A knife is a knife is a knife in my book. I like my old knives made from files because they can be used as a striker when I have flint. But they are a might bit brittle, but then it's just a knife.

    What many fail to think about, is that knife design is used to attract buyers. Is that Tom Brown any better than a Kabar, or a short machette, or a Buck, or a Puma, or Gerber, or any knife for that matter. No. It's a tool that is designed to be used up.


    I don't think any one knife is better than another in a survival situation, a freak'n cut piece of bamboo will work.

    Knife selection is personal pref. unless you are buying a specific knife like a throwing knife, a saw knife, a fillete knife, you get the pic.
    Last edited by FVR; 08-17-2008 at 04:32 PM.

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    Thank you, Frank! Now about those $400 knives....
    Tracks Across the High Plains...Death on the Bombay Line...A Touch of Death and Mayhem...Dead Rock...The Griswald Mine Boys...All On Amazon Books.

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    LOL............$400.00 knife.

    Why in the heck do you think I make my own bows, arrows, and gear.

    I like to do it on the cheap. Make it, trade it, and spend as least amount as possible.

    400 bucks, wow, you know what you can do with that? That is a years worth of clothes, including shoes for my kids, it's a new set of 4 tires for the minivan, I can go on....

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    Administrator Rick's Avatar
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    See ya'll. Frank knows. That's why I carry a $15.00 knive.
    Tracks Across the High Plains...Death on the Bombay Line...A Touch of Death and Mayhem...Dead Rock...The Griswald Mine Boys...All On Amazon Books.

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    I have found a few very good knives that cost almost nothing. All my expensive knives are excellent. My Green River knife is a very good knife at $14. My Eagle River Knives Bowie is an excellent knife at $200. My K-Bar D-2 extreme is the toughest knife I've ever owned. I don't remember how much I paid for it but it wasn't cheap. My advice to you is buy a knife and use it. If you don't like it, buy something else and use it.
    1. If it's in your kit and you don't know how to use it....It's useless.
    2. If you can't reach your kit when you need it....Its useless.

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    Loner Gray Wolf's Avatar
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    $400? Do I hear $700.00 (plus S & H) for Bears knife????
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    A person is finished when they quit."

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    Loner Gray Wolf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by akumabito View Post
    Personally I'd like to think that for example a Finnish puukko is pretty much ideal - they haven't changed much in ages, and that's probably for a good reason, right? Plus they have been designed and used in serious outdoor conditions for just as long so any 'bugs' should have been out of the design by now. I guess they can safely be labeled 'tried and tested'.
    Personally I wouldn't bet my life on any knife that didn't have a full tang, and the Lappland Puukko, Aito Puukko, Kauhavalainen Puukko, DON'T!
    "A person is not finished when they are defeated.
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    Tracker Beo's Avatar
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    I'd like to stick Bear with his knife.
    I prefer an old fashioned file knife with an antler handle. As FVR said its a tool, most of the ones I got that were expensive were presents or gifts and ended up getting traded or sold. Buying a good knife blank for about $20 or $30 bucks and put a wood handle or antler handle on it and I'm good, or easy sale to someone.
    In the end a knife is a tool, I will spend money on them but those are collectors from bygone days. Of course I still use them though.
    There is no greater solitude than that of the Tracker in the forest, unless perhaps it's that of the wolf in the wilderness.

  15. #15

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    i say traditional designs theyv'e been tested the best all you need is a normal knife you don't a knife designed by/for the SEALS to clean a deer

  16. #16
    Senior Member Ole WV Coot's Avatar
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    I probably have said before I am partial to a Nessmuk style blade. An Old Hickory skinner about $8 can be modified. No way will I pay for a custom knife like I want so I make my own. I did a repair job on cutting out a piece of pine at the bottom of a double door, replacing it with seasoned treated. I used one I made, plus a hammer on the spine. When I finished my repair job a couple of minutes on a stone and had a shaving edge back. That's a traditional design and it works for me. If I break it, I will make another. I like wood handles, no guard and have strange looking blades but they work for me.
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  17. #17
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    Am I the only one that thinks a full tang knife is a much better made and stronger all around wilderness tool?
    Last edited by Gray Wolf; 08-20-2008 at 11:39 PM.
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  18. #18
    Senior Member flandersander's Avatar
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    you may be, but I bought a knige advertised to be "full tang" for 15 bucks, and the firts rabbit I went to skin, the blade broke right off when I accedintally stuck it in the breastbone. I don't think that had anything to do with full tang, but I really would like to know what "full tang" and "half tang" and what not means. If sombody could explain it please?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gray Wolf View Post
    Am I the only one that thinks a full tang knife is a much better made and stronger all around wilderness tool?
    Nope. Other than folders, and of course the Rambo Super Deer Slayer Delux with Laser/Holo Sight/Scope/Tac Light, all of my knives have a full tang.
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    Quote Originally Posted by flandersander View Post
    you may be, but I bought a knige advertised to be "full tang" for 15 bucks, and the firts rabbit I went to skin, the blade broke right off when I accedintally stuck it in the breastbone. I don't think that had anything to do with full tang, but I really would like to know what "full tang" and "half tang" and what not means. If sombody could explain it please?
    Full tang means that the piece of metal that the blade is made of continues up into the end of the handle. If you were to remove the handle, you would have one solid piece of metal. This is considered much stronger because if the metal ends and a handle is attached to the butt end of it, that becomes a very weak point that can break under stress. As far as your blade breaking, it may have been a defect in the metal.
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