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Thread: AAC Reloading problems!

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by jim Glass View Post
    Enlighten me, what would a 7.62 x 39 AR be like??? How are those to reload? Does that use it's own magazine or same as the .223? Other recommendations?? How about a 6.8?
    Several years ago I bought an Olympia upper in 7.62x39. I put it on a Colt Sporter II Lower. It required that little bushing on the hinge pin to hold it tight. I love it. I don't reload generally for 7.62x39. I have dies and could if need be but as kyratshooter pointed out, commercial ammo is very much cheaper than I can reload that particular round. I have used every kind of ammo that I can get hold of and it has worked flawlessly.

    I have used 223 mags and they will work to an extent but they are not reliable. I just bought a bunch of the right mags. That rifle is my truck gun when I go to the ranch. I bought one of those hard cases that has the little foam blocks you take out to fit the rifle in and I carry the rifle, 4 - 30 round mags of cheap Russian steel cased ammo, 1 - 10 round mag in the rifle with soft points and a few boxes of the Russian and a box of Winchester soft points.

    If I were attacked by a deer (during deer season of course) and had no means of escape I would not hesitate to use it in self defense. The ballistics are 30-30 ish and would do just fine for deer and hogs and any other varmintry that shows theysef.

    I don't reload for anything I shoot in an AR. I reload 223 because I have bolt action rifles that shoot that round. I mostly shoot the Russian steel case stuff. I know a lot of guys don't and are fanatics about not doing it. I'm not sure why, but I don't just burn up ammo to hear the noise and to put holes in paper. I'll burn a mag of 223 or 7.62x39 about once a month just to keep things loosened up but that's about it.

    If you decide to get a 7.62x39 upper, I doubt you will be disappointed. I'm not. I think it is a very underrated round. Much of the bad press the round has gotten is due to the rifles it is used in and not the round itself.

    Alan


  2. #22
    Tool & Die Maker
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    I went to Daytona Tactical where I bought the AR in the first place and ordered another gas tube from them. I can see myself breaking something trying to separate the two. This way each gas block will have its own gas tube. No hurry on this project. This way I can go to the gun range and see if it will jam up again.
    Last edited by jim Glass; 05-31-2018 at 08:09 PM.

  3. #23
    Senior Member kyratshooter's Avatar
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    That gas tube at the point where the pin goes through to hold it in the gas block is probably the weakest part of the AR platform.

    You might get it to fall apart using some brake cleaner or carb cleaner to dissolve the carbon buildup.

    But as you say, it is probably easier to dedicate a new tube to the new gas block.
    If you didn't bring jerky what did I just eat?

  4. #24
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    Hello, First time user. I have been reloading for 30 years (pistol and rifle), and have been seeing a lot of issues for reloading the 300 Blackout. I started loading the 300 Blk. 4 years ago and started reloading them from the ground up. I first saught out 223/5.56 brass that had a neck thickness of .011"-.012".Military brass LC and WCC head-stamps and civilian (R-P and Aguilla) brass was used. Then using a 2" chop saw with a cutting jig, for the 300 I found on eBay, attached, cut the brass to 1.375-1.390. I then would re-neck the 223/5.56 with a "dedicated" Lyman 300 blackout resizing die (with expanding button). I then used Lee's "Quick Trim" and Trimmed the brass to a uniform length of 1.358". Removing the primer crimp can be done either after decapping or cutting. I then used the resizing die without resizer button to ensure uniformity and shrink the neck opening, to aid keeping tension on a seated projectile. I found using Lilgun powder seem to work very well. My recipe is as follows: 110 gr. "Nosler" Varm. with 19.0 gr of Lilgun, with either CCi or Winchester small rifle primers. Set the OAL to 1.050" and crimp with a Lyman taper crimp. 125 gr Nosler BT/BT or Speer TNT HP, with a 18.8 gr charge set to OAL of 1.060. CCI or WSR primers used. Avg Velocity 2305 fps (10 shot group) 1.83" 100 yds. 150 gr Hornady FMJ or Nosler BT/BT with 17.2 gr of Lilgun using CCI or WSR primers, OAL 2.070. Avg velocity 2075 fps(10 shot group). Rifle used was a Anderson 16" barrel 1:7 twist. I have not had any bullet creep processing rounds the way I process them. By using just the resizing die without neck expander helps keep tension on the projectile along with the taper crimp, keeps things in place in the chamber. Lilgun does not seem to kick up preasures to blow your brass out of proportion either. Good luck and be safe.

  5. #25
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    Hi makaiikona. I see you are not far away from me, I live near Sycamore, IL. I think I started reloading 4 years ago when I bought my first AR-15. Sounds like you have reloading the 300 blackout down to a science. Since I have my own machine shop I'm able to make up most of my own tooling. I have converted a few 223 shells into 300 blackout casing. I shortened the shells with a fine tooth jewlers saw blade. Conjured up a jig to hold the shells in my Bridgeport mill. It all worked amazingly well. Then I made my own powered shell casing trimmer. It has 4 stations, trim to length, ream the primer pocket, chamfer the inside and outside of the neck. Most or all of my problems were my own inexperience and I learned many things the hard way. Seems like I learn a little something every time I reload. Haven't fired or reloaded my 300 blackout all summer. Busy shooting my 223. Also have a 9mm AR-15 and a 45ACP AR-15. I enjoy shooting and reloading the 9mm and 45ACP mainly because they are so cheap. I also have 9mm and 45ACP pistols. Speaking of learning the hard way, I'll never forget the explosion I had in my shop. I was priming some 45 ACP and inserted a primer sideways into the pocket. The shell was trapped in the Lee Precision primer. I had no choice but to tap on the primer to back it out of the pocket. I have detonated primers in the past, just a startling snap. But this time was different, the primer went "bang" like a 9mm round going off. The Lee primer blew up in my hand. Should have seen the powder burns on my hand. I fully expected the police to show up but I guess the neighbors are accustom to strange noises coming from my shop. Well, the one primer detonated 3 more large pistol primers next to it so it was 4 primers going off not one.

    This summer I learned about barrel leading. It all started with a 9mm Taurus pistol, PT92, I bought for a 2 day pistol class. Out of the box the Taurus shoot really well but after shooting a box of shells the bullets were all over the paper target. Cleaning the pistol I discovered lots of leading in the barrel. I bought a Lewis lead removal kit from Brownells. Figured out the bullets I was reloading were cast bullets with a powder coating as a lubricant. Cheap, 500 bullets for $32. The 9mm AR-15 used the same bullets with no leading issues. However, the 45ACP AR-15 was a new rifle that just never shot well. Learned that barrel was leading shooting the cast bullets, but the same cast bullets worked fine in a 1911 45 pistol. Now the 45 cal rifle and the Taurus pistol shoot only jacketed bullets and shoots them very well.
    Reloading air press: https://www.facebook.com/james.glass...user_video_tab
    Last edited by jim Glass; 09-15-2019 at 08:22 AM.

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