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Thread: Minimal flint and Ferro rod striker.

  1. #1
    Member DCorlando's Avatar
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    Default Minimal flint and Ferro rod striker.

    Hi all, my first post to this forum. Just wanted to share my simple minimal light weight striker. The one on the left was made from 1/4 square 1095 steel stock. The one on the right was made from O1 1/4 tool steel rod. The goal was to make is light as I could and have it work well for both flint rock and ferro rod striking. The flattened end was ground on one side at a bit of a bevel to work well on the ferro rod. Both work well on both the flint rock and the rod. I would give the edge to the square 1095 on flint but both will start a piece of char cloth no problem. Not sure if the 1095 works a bit better do to the steel or perhaps it is just the shape. It was fun forging them but one sure has to work fast on such small stock.
    Last edited by DCorlando; 05-12-2018 at 01:04 PM. Reason: Missing image


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    Administrator Rick's Avatar
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    You cannot post images or links until you have 10 posts. It's part of the anti spam software we use. Just keeps the spammers at bay. Once you have 10 posts you will be good to go.

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    Senior Member Antonyraison's Avatar
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    I will await the 10 post to see your work, welcome though!
    My youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/ultsmackdown Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/antonyraison/

    (BOSWA) ELITE SURVIVAL RANGER - BSR/16/05

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    Member DCorlando's Avatar
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    Here is the picture I took of the two strikers https://photos.app.goo.gl/rDA1jaqi34zwsb532

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    Member DCorlando's Avatar
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    Here is one of it being used on ferro rod. https://photos.app.goo.gl/HIDmFTbX3XCYATLl2

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    Senior Member Antonyraison's Avatar
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    Ahhh cool.. I see now
    Do you temper the strikers? or not, and does that effect how it works on flint>?
    I am wanting to forge a flint striker, but I am likely going to use 5160 high carbon steel
    My youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/ultsmackdown Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/antonyraison/

    (BOSWA) ELITE SURVIVAL RANGER - BSR/16/05

  7. #7
    Member DCorlando's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Antonyraison View Post
    Ahhh cool.. I see now
    Do you temper the strikers? or not, and does that effect how it works on flint>?
    I am wanting to forge a flint striker, but I am likely going to use 5160 high carbon steel
    First some clarification on harden vs temper, to harden high carbon steel it is heated to just past critical (normally bright red) and can be checked using a stick magnet, no attraction and you are good to go. It is then cooled quickly, I use plain vegetable oil with a pre heat done by simply placing the gallon paint can with the oil next to the forge fire. This is the safest way with little chance of cracking but it does not tend to make it as hard as water. Water is very hard on the steel and is likely to crack.

    After the steel is cooled it is at it's hardest and if a knife blade it would be likely to crack or chip. To temper the steel is heated again but to much lower temp. 400 500 f for an hour or two is common and on small items can be done in a toaster oven.

    The striker gets the full harden with no temper, just don't drop it on a big rock or concrete.

    5160 should work but I have not tried it. I think the best I have tried so far is 1095 because there is no tungsten in it. On the O1 I used there is tungsten in it and I think it may suppress the burning of the little bits that get knocked off by the flint.

    Hope this helps, Dale
    Last edited by DCorlando; 05-17-2018 at 11:31 AM.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Antonyraison's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DCorlando View Post
    First some clarification on harden vs temper, to harden high carbon steel it is heated to just past critical (normally bright red) and can be checked using a stick magnet, no attraction and you are good to go. It is then cooled quickly, I use plain vegetable oil with a pre heat done by simply placing the gallon paint can with the oil next to the forge fire. This is the safest way with little chance of cracking but it does not tend to make it as hard as water. Water is very hard on the steel and is likely to crack.

    After the steel is cooled it is at it's hardest and if a knife blade it would be likely to crack or chip. To temper the steel is heated again but to much lower temp. 400 500 f for an hour or two is common and on small items can be done in a toaster oven.

    The striker gets the full harden with no temper, just don't drop it on a big rock or concrete.

    5160 should work but I have not tried it. I think the best I have tried so far is 1095 because there is no tungsten in it. On the O1 I used there is tungsten in it and I think it may suppress the burning of the little bits that get knocked off by the flint.

    Hope this helps, Dale
    Thanks , it does
    My youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/ultsmackdown Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/antonyraison/

    (BOSWA) ELITE SURVIVAL RANGER - BSR/16/05

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