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Thread: Verdigris

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    Default Verdigris

    I've waged a lifelong battle with Verdigris. Does anyone know how to thwart this demon?


    Alan


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    Administrator Rick's Avatar
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    I assume you are talking about a plant but I don't know a plant by that name. Have a picture?

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    It's the green Shi.. uh... stuff that grows on brass while you're not looking.

    Alan

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    I assume it is only forming on the brass/bronze of your knives? Having spent a bit of time in the Navy, it was a constant battle. I found that Brasso works pretty good, but Never Dull was my go to.
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    Polish the brass and apply lacquer.

    I sometimes use Brass Black and then buff some of it off to create a worn finish. The residue from the Brass Black keeps the green from growing.
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  6. #6

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    You also want to avoid metal to metal contact with unlike metals. You can get some really interesting forms of green if you set up a galvanic reaction between two or more metal parts.

    Here's a wiki on the galvanic reaction giving an ok explanation and a chart showing simple anodic index of several metals. Better charts elsewhere include the electrolyte environment as well.
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion

    If you have your brass thing attached with or touching another metal and you happen to live in a seaport town, you are likely to experience far more greening than you would if you lived much farther inland. But even fresh water like rain will cause that reaction to happen.

    I do a lot of signage-like things, some involving brass, aluminum or stainless steel plaques. Around here, you do NOT use aluminum studs to put up stainless plaques. The salt air will make that aluminum corrode in a matter of months. Much like the sacrificial chunk of aluminum or zinc you put on your boat to protect the motor.

    Clear coating with an exterior grade 2-part automotive finish is what we use to slow up the oxidation for things that just sit there and look pretty. Plating can work too, on fasteners. Neoprene barriers can work between plate surfaces too, environment permitting (neoprene can degrade over time, resulting in contact.) Rubber or plastic washers, rubber or plastic sleeves also keep metals from touching. Working parts are a totally different matter. Wear that results in contact just has to be accounted for.
    Last edited by LowKey; 07-11-2017 at 09:38 PM.
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    My working knives don't have much of a problem because they get used. Where the main problem exists is with my collectables. I keep them in felt rolls or still in their original boxes. There are some that I keep in felt lined boxes and they are not of the type that I would put Brasso on. They don't get a lot of it on them but the tarnish begins to form and once any green starts, it never stops. Those knives require that I use a very slightly oiled rag and just rub the area about a thousand times. I probably wouldn't lacquer them either. There is no abrasive fine enough that it would not dull the mirror finish.

    I guess I'm looking for a magic bullet.

    Alan

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    Will the Nevr-Dull act as an abrasive or solvent to handle finish or material? Will it discolor porous handle material like antler or bone?

    I see that it is sold at WalMart.

    Alan

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    I've never done any experimenting with the Nevr-Dull other than to use it on brass (probably other metals too). Seems that the Navy likes their brass shiny.

    I recently started using Flitz on knives. It does a pretty good job, and will not scratch the finish. I have not tried it yet on tarnished brass. I will and I'll report back.
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    They advertise Flitz for use on guns and knives. I'm going to town today. I'll check for some while I'm looking for the Never-Dull. Thanks.

    Alan

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    Tomato Sauce, seriously! NOT KETCHUP, but like ketchup..
    It works.
    Rub it on the items, let it sit a while, clean it off.
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    and If you want a brand, lol there is ONLY one tomato Sauce, the KING, the best the tastiest.
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    I have also got the green stuff where brass meets the leather sheath! I thought that was weird, but that is why you should never leave a knife in a leather sheath for long periods of time!
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  14. #14

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    Didn't realize this was the knife forum. I just look at the new thread list. No you probably don't want to be lacquering collectibles.
    With knives, I'd look at the construction. If you have brass acting as an anode for some other metal on the knife, polishing is about all you can do.
    The acids in leather are just another form of electrolytic catalyst.
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    I got some Nevr-Dull today. Haven't tried it yet. I think I'll test it out on some work knives first to see what it does.

    Alan

  16. #16

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    Like others have said flitz to remove it and polish it. Then I use ballistol to protect it. Ballistol is great and will stay on it and not dry out quick. And form a protective barrier. The key I've found is to keep air and brass seperate. I think ballistol does that better than anything I've found yet.

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    Super Moderator crashdive123's Avatar
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    I finally got around to testing Flitz on brass. It did not perform well on it. Not sure if using it on something polished will leave a residue or not.

    The pictures below are of a sixty pound piece of brass I have that had a little verdigris on it. The Flitz did very, very little in the way of polishing the brass and it did not remove the verdigris. The second picture shows what three seconds with a 2 HP buffer turning at 3450 RPM can do. (almost dropped that chunk of brass on my foot)

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    So scrubbing with a buffer pad 172.5 times should make it sparkle?

    I couldn't find Flitz. Nevr-Dull achieved some results in removing the verdigris but did not shine the brass. I think the buffing is a necessary factor in getting a shine.

    I can live with less shine as long as it's not green.

    Alan

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    I just rub it down with a piece or buckskin with WD 40 on it.....turns the green to dark....but doesn't spoil the patina.
    I don't like sparkle on old brass

    Chemical tanned holsters and sheaths will cause the green stuff.
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