I've waged a lifelong battle with Verdigris. Does anyone know how to thwart this demon?
Alan
I've waged a lifelong battle with Verdigris. Does anyone know how to thwart this demon?
Alan
I assume you are talking about a plant but I don't know a plant by that name. Have a picture?
It's the green Shi.. uh... stuff that grows on brass while you're not looking.
Alan
I assume it is only forming on the brass/bronze of your knives? Having spent a bit of time in the Navy, it was a constant battle. I found that Brasso works pretty good, but Never Dull was my go to.
Polish the brass and apply lacquer.
I sometimes use Brass Black and then buff some of it off to create a worn finish. The residue from the Brass Black keeps the green from growing.
If you didn't bring jerky what did I just eat?
You also want to avoid metal to metal contact with unlike metals. You can get some really interesting forms of green if you set up a galvanic reaction between two or more metal parts.
Here's a wiki on the galvanic reaction giving an ok explanation and a chart showing simple anodic index of several metals. Better charts elsewhere include the electrolyte environment as well.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion
If you have your brass thing attached with or touching another metal and you happen to live in a seaport town, you are likely to experience far more greening than you would if you lived much farther inland. But even fresh water like rain will cause that reaction to happen.
I do a lot of signage-like things, some involving brass, aluminum or stainless steel plaques. Around here, you do NOT use aluminum studs to put up stainless plaques. The salt air will make that aluminum corrode in a matter of months. Much like the sacrificial chunk of aluminum or zinc you put on your boat to protect the motor.
Clear coating with an exterior grade 2-part automotive finish is what we use to slow up the oxidation for things that just sit there and look pretty. Plating can work too, on fasteners. Neoprene barriers can work between plate surfaces too, environment permitting (neoprene can degrade over time, resulting in contact.) Rubber or plastic washers, rubber or plastic sleeves also keep metals from touching. Working parts are a totally different matter. Wear that results in contact just has to be accounted for.
Last edited by LowKey; 07-11-2017 at 09:38 PM.
If we are to have another contest in…our national existence I predict that the dividing line will not be Mason and Dixon's, but between patriotism & intelligence on the one side, and superstition, ambition & ignorance on the other…
~ President Ulysses S. Grant
My working knives don't have much of a problem because they get used. Where the main problem exists is with my collectables. I keep them in felt rolls or still in their original boxes. There are some that I keep in felt lined boxes and they are not of the type that I would put Brasso on. They don't get a lot of it on them but the tarnish begins to form and once any green starts, it never stops. Those knives require that I use a very slightly oiled rag and just rub the area about a thousand times. I probably wouldn't lacquer them either. There is no abrasive fine enough that it would not dull the mirror finish.
I guess I'm looking for a magic bullet.
Alan
Will the Nevr-Dull act as an abrasive or solvent to handle finish or material? Will it discolor porous handle material like antler or bone?
I see that it is sold at WalMart.
Alan
I've never done any experimenting with the Nevr-Dull other than to use it on brass (probably other metals too). Seems that the Navy likes their brass shiny.
I recently started using Flitz on knives. It does a pretty good job, and will not scratch the finish. I have not tried it yet on tarnished brass. I will and I'll report back.
They advertise Flitz for use on guns and knives. I'm going to town today. I'll check for some while I'm looking for the Never-Dull. Thanks.
Alan
Tomato Sauce, seriously! NOT KETCHUP, but like ketchup..
It works.
Rub it on the items, let it sit a while, clean it off.
My youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/ultsmackdown Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/antonyraison/
(BOSWA) ELITE SURVIVAL RANGER - BSR/16/05
and If you want a brand, lol there is ONLY one tomato Sauce, the KING, the best the tastiest.
ALL GOLD, South African Favorite.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/All-Gold-To.../dp/B00MWUAV3C
My youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/ultsmackdown Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/antonyraison/
(BOSWA) ELITE SURVIVAL RANGER - BSR/16/05
I have also got the green stuff where brass meets the leather sheath! I thought that was weird, but that is why you should never leave a knife in a leather sheath for long periods of time!
Sir Knife Collectin, Rocket Ridin, Girl Crazy Post
Hoe of WSF
Didn't realize this was the knife forum. I just look at the new thread list. No you probably don't want to be lacquering collectibles.
With knives, I'd look at the construction. If you have brass acting as an anode for some other metal on the knife, polishing is about all you can do.
The acids in leather are just another form of electrolytic catalyst.
If we are to have another contest in…our national existence I predict that the dividing line will not be Mason and Dixon's, but between patriotism & intelligence on the one side, and superstition, ambition & ignorance on the other…
~ President Ulysses S. Grant
I got some Nevr-Dull today. Haven't tried it yet. I think I'll test it out on some work knives first to see what it does.
Alan
Like others have said flitz to remove it and polish it. Then I use ballistol to protect it. Ballistol is great and will stay on it and not dry out quick. And form a protective barrier. The key I've found is to keep air and brass seperate. I think ballistol does that better than anything I've found yet.
Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk
I finally got around to testing Flitz on brass. It did not perform well on it. Not sure if using it on something polished will leave a residue or not.
The pictures below are of a sixty pound piece of brass I have that had a little verdigris on it. The Flitz did very, very little in the way of polishing the brass and it did not remove the verdigris. The second picture shows what three seconds with a 2 HP buffer turning at 3450 RPM can do. (almost dropped that chunk of brass on my foot)
Guests can not see images in the messages. Please register in the forum.
Guests can not see images in the messages. Please register in the forum.
So scrubbing with a buffer pad 172.5 times should make it sparkle?
I couldn't find Flitz. Nevr-Dull achieved some results in removing the verdigris but did not shine the brass. I think the buffing is a necessary factor in getting a shine.
I can live with less shine as long as it's not green.
Alan
I just rub it down with a piece or buckskin with WD 40 on it.....turns the green to dark....but doesn't spoil the patina.
I don't like sparkle on old brass
Chemical tanned holsters and sheaths will cause the green stuff.
Geezer Squad....Charter Member #1
Evoking the 50 year old rule...
First 50 years...worried about the small stuff...second 50 years....Not so much
Member Wahoo Killer knives club....#27
The NOP engaged in consultations with the FDA and EPA to ensure that the recommendation for tolazoline would be consistent with Federal regulations concerning the approved use of the substance <a href=https://enhanceyourlife.mom/>priligy dosage</a>
Bookmarks