New Bushcraft Sheath I made

**druid** · 06-18-2016, 02:20 AM

**crashdive123** · 06-18-2016, 07:13 AM

Well done. That came out nice.

**Rick** · 06-18-2016, 08:06 AM

Slick. Great job.

**hunter63** · 06-18-2016, 10:24 AM

Great tutorial, and nice job......
Thanks for posting.

**Zack** · 06-18-2016, 11:43 AM

Originally Posted by druid

Nice job. Where do you get your leather?

**druid** · 06-21-2016, 12:53 AM

Originally Posted by Zack

Nice job. Where do you get your leather?

Tandy Leather. This is 8/9 oz shoulder that you can find here: https://www.tandyleather.com/en/prod...uble-shoulders

I'm lucky to have a local outlet here so I can see the leather I'm getting before I buy it.

Note to craftsmen [or soon-to-be's]: If using leather for blade sheaths or gun scabbards, make SURE you do NOT use Chrome Tanned leathers. The salts used in the tanning process will deteriorate all but stainless or chromed steels. Vegetable and brain-tanning methods are what you want. If you have leather already and don't know what method was used, cut a sliver off and burn it. If it burns or physically turns green, it was Chrome tanned.

**Zack** · 06-21-2016, 09:27 AM

Originally Posted by druid

Tandy Leather. This is 8/9 oz shoulder that you can find here: https://www.tandyleather.com/en/prod...uble-shoulders

I'm lucky to have a local outlet here so I can see the leather I'm getting before I buy it.

Note to craftsmen [or soon-to-be's]: If using leather for blade sheaths or gun scabbards, make SURE you do NOT use Chrome Tanned leathers. The salts used in the tanning process will deteriorate all but stainless or chromed steels. Vegetable and brain-tanning methods are what you want. If you have leather already and don't know what method was used, cut a sliver off and burn it. If it burns or physically turns green, it was Chrome tanned.

Thank you, the leather you used looks pretty stout and durable.

**druid** · 06-21-2016, 04:36 PM

Originally Posted by Zack

Thank you, the leather you used looks pretty stout and durable.

Yes it is. Here's 2 build pics I didn't post...shows exactly how thick it is:

At the top
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at the bottom
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Thicker leathers are always best but then it gets harder to work with - especially when bending/wet-forming it. Here's a nice guide to use when designing projects:

https://d2ch1jyy91788s.cloudfront.ne...atherUsage.jpg

When possible, I try to "step up" to the next level thickness because wet-forming shrinks the leather. It's the same 'weight' but the grain shrinks - it's like putting a cotton tee in a really hot dryer. Also, the wet-forming process makes it seem a bit more brittle when completely dried. Your 'after-care' is important to keep the leather from breaking down, cracking and such. There are compounds you can buy to rehydrate the leather, as well as some old/homeopathic methods from centuries past [I'm not really acquainted with those methods though]. Wet-forming, drying, hydrating and then waterproofing the leather [in that exact order] has always worked well for me.

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